Hello

We have a cooker hood (proline con 60) with 2 lights and extractor
fan.
One bulb blew and after the replacing the plug fuse only the extactor
fan now works. Neither light does even with new bulbs.

The plug had a 13amp fuse even though the instructions said 3amps. I
was hoping there was an internal fuse to change but the only
accessible space I could find houses a terminal block (is that the
correct term?).

Is it likely there would a internal fuse or is the unit lilkey shot?
Cheers for any advice

n99

In article ,
n99 writes:
Hello

We have a cooker hood (proline con 60) with 2 lights and extractor
fan.
One bulb blew and after the replacing the plug fuse only the extactor
fan now works. Neither light does even with new bulbs.

The plug had a 13amp fuse even though the instructions said 3amps. I
was hoping there was an internal fuse to change but the only
accessible space I could find houses a terminal block (is that the
correct term?).

Is it likely there would a internal fuse or is the unit lilkey shot?
Cheers for any advice

I would guess the resulting fault current damaged the light switch
or burned out a thin wire or track. I can't imagine it would be
difficult to fix.

BTW, I always use CFL's in cooker hoods, not being susceptable to
the fan vibration.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Jul 4, 9:37*pm, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article ,
* * * * n99 writes:

Hello

We have a cooker hood (proline con 60) with 2 lights and extractor
fan.
One bulb blew and after the replacing the plug fuse only the extactor
fan now works. Neither light does even with new bulbs.

The plug had a 13amp fuse even though the instructions said 3amps. I
was hoping there was an internal fuse to change but the only
accessible space I could find houses a terminal block (is that the
correct term?).

Is it likely there would a internal fuse or is the unit lilkey shot?
Cheers for any advice

I would guess the resulting fault current damaged the light switch
or burned out a thin wire or track. I can't imagine it would be
difficult to fix.

BTW, I always use CFL's in cooker hoods, not being susceptable to
the fan vibration.

Light switch is often the weakest link, and an internal arc in a bulb
can take them out. Could be anything else though. Multimeter will tell
you where the fault is. If the switch, fit a new one or open it and
file the contacts clean. CFLs dont cause this problem.


NT

"NT" wrote in message
...
On Jul 4, 9:37 pm, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article
,
n99 writes:

Hello

We have a cooker hood (proline con 60) with 2 lights and extractor
fan.
One bulb blew and after the replacing the plug fuse only the extactor
fan now works. Neither light does even with new bulbs.

The plug had a 13amp fuse even though the instructions said 3amps. I
was hoping there was an internal fuse to change but the only
accessible space I could find houses a terminal block (is that the
correct term?).

Is it likely there would a internal fuse or is the unit lilkey shot?
Cheers for any advice

I would guess the resulting fault current damaged the light switch
or burned out a thin wire or track. I can't imagine it would be
difficult to fix.

BTW, I always use CFL's in cooker hoods, not being susceptable to
the fan vibration.

Light switch is often the weakest link, and an internal arc in a bulb
can take them out. Could be anything else though. Multimeter will tell
you where the fault is. If the switch, fit a new one or open it and
file the contacts clean. CFLs dont cause this problem.


NT


I've had screw in bulbs that don't quite make contact.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article
,
n99 writes:
Hello

We have a cooker hood (proline con 60) with 2 lights and extractor
fan.
One bulb blew and after the replacing the plug fuse only the extactor
fan now works. Neither light does even with new bulbs.

The plug had a 13amp fuse even though the instructions said 3amps. I
was hoping there was an internal fuse to change but the only
accessible space I could find houses a terminal block (is that the
correct term?).

Is it likely there would a internal fuse or is the unit lilkey shot?
Cheers for any advice

I would guess the resulting fault current damaged the light switch
or burned out a thin wire or track. I can't imagine it would be
difficult to fix.

BTW, I always use CFL's in cooker hoods, not being susceptable to
the fan vibration.

--
Andrew Gabriel

I have repaired a couple of extractors where the tracks have blown. I have
not had to replace a switch yet.

Adam