Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Jun 23, 9:28*am, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.

Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

Barrier cream shouldnt cost that much


NT

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 01:46:07 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

On Jun 23, 9:28*am, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.

Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

Barrier cream shouldnt cost that much

Maybe barrier cream is a different name for the same kind of stuff.
I remember using Rozalex a lot when I was a teenager.
While this may be good stuff for normal hands, with such reactive hand
conditions it may be necessary to use something more impervious to
chemical penetration than standard barrier cream.

Then again, standard barrier cream may be adequate. I don't know,
which is why I wrote here for advice.

NT

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 09:56:59 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

Barrier cream shouldnt cost that much

Maybe barrier cream is a different name for the same kind of stuff.
I remember using Rozalex a lot when I was a teenager.
While this may be good stuff for normal hands, with such reactive hand
conditions it may be necessary to use something more impervious to
chemical penetration than standard barrier cream.

Then again, standard barrier cream may be adequate. I don't know,
which is why I wrote here for advice.


I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.


Diprobase.

http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/dipro...am_1_4303.html

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...wiki/Diprobase

Use it every day to moisturise and extra as a barrier cream. Best stuff
on the planet short of steroids, which cure the eczema, but prematurely
age and thin your skin.

It comes in 100g tubes or 500g pump-action dispensers. Ask for it at
your pharmacist. You can get it on prescription and save a few pennies
on the larger sized dispenser.

On 23 June, 09:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,

Partco's French barrier cream in the yellow tubs PX90?

There's a _big_ difference between barrier cream (pre-use) and hand
cream (post-use) Barrier cream also needs dry hands before applying
it.

For gloves, nitrile (usually blue or purple) rather than latex, as
they're far stronger. Avoid powdered gloves if you're wearing them a
lot. For the best gloves, get a medical or dental catalogue (dentists
seem better for small one-off orders). They offer several ranges,
including some extra strong and extra-thick. Prices per glove are good
too, although you may find yourself having to buy a big box.

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 11:02:42 +0100, Dave Osborne
wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.


Diprobase.

http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/dipro...am_1_4303.html

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...wiki/Diprobase

Use it every day to moisturise and extra as a barrier cream. Best stuff
on the planet short of steroids, which cure the eczema, but prematurely
age and thin your skin.

It comes in 100g tubes or 500g pump-action dispensers. Ask for it at
your pharmacist. You can get it on prescription and save a few pennies
on the larger sized dispenser.

After years of putting up with the condition, or faffing around with
largely ineffective remedies I recently took this to the GP.
He prescribed steroids and Diprobase. The steroids seemed to clear up
the condition quickly during the time limited 2 week period, after
which further use of the steroids was proscribed.

Persevering with the Diprobase hand cream use, the condition kept
cycling through it's different stages continuously, without any
apparent chemical trigger (other than perhaps the Diprobase itself).

Also, the smell of the Diprobase was ringing alarm bells for me every
time I used it. Others commented on the nasty smell of the stuff too.
So, perhaps mistakenly identifying this as the culprit, rather than
the recent steroid use, I chucked the Diprobase in the bin. 3 weeks
later I'm back to normal Contact Dermatitis, or hand Eczema.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:


I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 03:22:09 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 23 June, 09:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,

Partco's French barrier cream in the yellow tubs PX90?

Thanks, I'll get some and try it out.

There's a _big_ difference between barrier cream (pre-use) and hand
cream (post-use) Barrier cream also needs dry hands before applying
it.

I guess that 'liquid glove' will belong to the former group, though
how effective it might be compared to the barrier creams that have
been suggested I don't yet know.

For gloves, nitrile (usually blue or purple) rather than latex, as
they're far stronger. Avoid powdered gloves if you're wearing them a
lot. For the best gloves, get a medical or dental catalogue (dentists
seem better for small one-off orders). They offer several ranges,
including some extra strong and extra-thick. Prices per glove are good
too, although you may find yourself having to buy a big box.

I recently got a box of blue nitrile gloves via ebay which were
described by the seller as 'mechanic' quality. they weren't man enough
to survive the changing of a bike tyre though.
I'll try your suggestion of the dental catalogue variety in the hope
that they're a bit more sturdy.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 11:02:42 +0100, Dave Osborne
wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

Diprobase.

http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/dipro...am_1_4303.html

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...wiki/Diprobase

Use it every day to moisturise and extra as a barrier cream. Best stuff
on the planet short of steroids, which cure the eczema, but prematurely
age and thin your skin.

It comes in 100g tubes or 500g pump-action dispensers. Ask for it at
your pharmacist. You can get it on prescription and save a few pennies
on the larger sized dispenser.

After years of putting up with the condition, or faffing around with
largely ineffective remedies I recently took this to the GP.
He prescribed steroids and Diprobase. The steroids seemed to clear up
the condition quickly during the time limited 2 week period, after
which further use of the steroids was proscribed.

Persevering with the Diprobase hand cream use, the condition kept
cycling through it's different stages continuously, without any
apparent chemical trigger (other than perhaps the Diprobase itself).

Also, the smell of the Diprobase was ringing alarm bells for me every
time I used it. Others commented on the nasty smell of the stuff too.
So, perhaps mistakenly identifying this as the culprit, rather than
the recent steroid use, I chucked the Diprobase in the bin. 3 weeks
later I'm back to normal Contact Dermatitis, or hand Eczema.


OK, I can't relate to your experiences, other than to say plaster dust
used to be the number one trigger and made DIY impossible if it caused a
big flare-up.

My hand eczema (genetically based condition; runs in the family) has
been quiet for months and I use Diprobase most days. If my hands start
to dry out because I have neglected to moisturise them, then liberal
application of Diprobase settles them down.

I'm expect the condition will cycle again at some point this year and I
am reasonably sure that I will not be able to pinpoint the trigger
(unless it's obviously DIY-related). Diprobase won't be the culprit, though.

As to the smell, I quite like it :-)

DaveyOz

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:


I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Latex and rubber are well known for causing dermatitis, and I believe
surgical gloves now use 'corn starch' - corn flour - instead of talc. Not
only does my skin react to rubber, but rubber gloves and even balls, often
turn into horrible sticky messes after I have used/handled them. Also,
wearing gloves can be dodgy because one often does not notice when there is
a hole, until taking them off and finding no finger nail etc...

Sadly, there is not much the allergic can do in the long run but stick to
jobs and tasks that minimise exposure. Those who have not yet become
sensitised will reduce their chances of becoming so, with the barrier creams
and after washing hand creams, others have noted: once you have become
sensitised you are usually stuck with it.

S

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:14:55 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/06/2010 12:25, Mike Halmarack wrote:

I recently got a box of blue nitrile gloves via ebay which were
described by the seller as 'mechanic' quality. they weren't man enough
to survive the changing of a bike tyre though.
I'll try your suggestion of the dental catalogue variety in the hope
that they're a bit more sturdy.

If doing something that I know will perish the glove, then I usually
wear two pairs on the hand doing most work. That way you get a chance to
swap the outer one without getting whatever on you in the process.

That's something I usually do now, although it can get a little
frustrating where fiddly jobs are concerned.

I'm currently servicing some bicycles and this is mainly done wearing
some butch (black) Marigolds over the standard disposable blue nitrile
gloves. Handling the small nuts and bolts for fitting racks and
mudguards is a bit of a challenge. Wearing 2 pairs of nitrile gloves
in the past has sometimes resulted in oily fingers and thumbs, then
it's goodbye workshop for a couple of weeks or more.

As compensation my computer skills have improved accordingly. It's
just a matter of keeping the bits of skin from clogging the keyboard
by means of regular vacuuming sessions. Typing with gloves on really
is a chore and using the touchpad on the laptop is also a memorable
experience thus clad.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

After years of putting up with the condition, or faffing around with
largely ineffective remedies I recently took this to the GP.
He prescribed steroids and Diprobase. The steroids seemed to clear up
the condition quickly during the time limited 2 week period, after
which further use of the steroids was proscribed.

Persevering with the Diprobase hand cream use, the condition kept
cycling through it's different stages continuously, without any
apparent chemical trigger (other than perhaps the Diprobase itself).

Also, the smell of the Diprobase was ringing alarm bells for me every
time I used it. Others commented on the nasty smell of the stuff too.
So, perhaps mistakenly identifying this as the culprit, rather than
the recent steroid use, I chucked the Diprobase in the bin. 3 weeks
later I'm back to normal Contact Dermatitis, or hand Eczema.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Hi Mike,

When I worked in a lab and regularly also on motorcycle's (as I always
tended to buy them just before they blew up...), I got my contact dermatitis
and have had to be careful ever since. From the need to wear gloves and
wash often in the lab, and from the petrol and oil in bike fixing, my hands
got into a right state and I was given betnovate by the gp. I found that
this would quite quickly reduce the condition but never completely got rid
of it. Only when I stopped using the steroid and kept on with regular use
of ordinary moisturising creams did the rash on my fingers finally go. So I
would say you were on the right track by clearing the worst with the steroid
and then continuing with the moisturiser. I found that almost any
moisturiser would help, but you may have to find one that suits you. I
notice the chemist direct link also lists other products: one that looks
particularly popular is Cetraben, which might be worth a try:
http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/cetra...am_1_9802.html

However, possibly the main route to success for me was diligence: it is so
easy to get fed up with regular application or just forget, but I currently
have psoriasis, and it does gradually reduce if I keep moisturising morning
and night - and does creep back again if I don't.

Good luck.
S

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:38:31 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:


"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:


I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Latex and rubber are well known for causing dermatitis, and I believe
surgical gloves now use 'corn starch' - corn flour - instead of talc. Not
only does my skin react to rubber, but rubber gloves and even balls, often
turn into horrible sticky messes after I have used/handled them. Also,
wearing gloves can be dodgy because one often does not notice when there is
a hole, until taking them off and finding no finger nail etc...

Sadly, there is not much the allergic can do in the long run but stick to
jobs and tasks that minimise exposure. Those who have not yet become
sensitised will reduce their chances of becoming so, with the barrier creams
and after washing hand creams, others have noted: once you have become
sensitised you are usually stuck with it.

S


Yes, fending the condition off with preventive measures is definitely
the thing to do, as the cures aren't up to much.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 14:11:06 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:


After years of putting up with the condition, or faffing around with
largely ineffective remedies I recently took this to the GP.
He prescribed steroids and Diprobase. The steroids seemed to clear up
the condition quickly during the time limited 2 week period, after
which further use of the steroids was proscribed.

Persevering with the Diprobase hand cream use, the condition kept
cycling through it's different stages continuously, without any
apparent chemical trigger (other than perhaps the Diprobase itself).

Also, the smell of the Diprobase was ringing alarm bells for me every
time I used it. Others commented on the nasty smell of the stuff too.
So, perhaps mistakenly identifying this as the culprit, rather than
the recent steroid use, I chucked the Diprobase in the bin. 3 weeks
later I'm back to normal Contact Dermatitis, or hand Eczema.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Hi Mike,

When I worked in a lab and regularly also on motorcycle's (as I always
tended to buy them just before they blew up...), I got my contact dermatitis
and have had to be careful ever since. From the need to wear gloves and
wash often in the lab, and from the petrol and oil in bike fixing, my hands
got into a right state and I was given betnovate by the gp. I found that
this would quite quickly reduce the condition but never completely got rid
of it. Only when I stopped using the steroid and kept on with regular use
of ordinary moisturising creams did the rash on my fingers finally go. So I
would say you were on the right track by clearing the worst with the steroid
and then continuing with the moisturiser. I found that almost any
moisturiser would help, but you may have to find one that suits you. I
notice the chemist direct link also lists other products: one that looks
particularly popular is Cetraben, which might be worth a try:
http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/cetra...am_1_9802.html

However, possibly the main route to success for me was diligence: it is so
easy to get fed up with regular application or just forget, but I currently
have psoriasis, and it does gradually reduce if I keep moisturising morning
and night - and does creep back again if I don't.

Good luck.
S


Thanks S, I'll give the Cetraben a try.
There's no doubt that a lot of self discipline and regularity is
called for. Like with so many things, the damage can be done in a
fraction of a second, then take weeks to repair.

It took me a long time to get even this careful because I resented not
being able to handle things like I used to. Numerous periods of
down-time eventually changed that and I can get a lot further through
a job before it gets abandoned now.:-)
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:17:31 +0100, Dave Osborne
wrote:


OK, I can't relate to your experiences, other than to say plaster dust
used to be the number one trigger and made DIY impossible if it caused a
big flare-up.

My hand eczema (genetically based condition; runs in the family) has
been quiet for months and I use Diprobase most days. If my hands start
to dry out because I have neglected to moisturise them, then liberal
application of Diprobase settles them down.

I'm expect the condition will cycle again at some point this year and I
am reasonably sure that I will not be able to pinpoint the trigger
(unless it's obviously DIY-related). Diprobase won't be the culprit, though.

As to the smell, I quite like it :-)

DaveyOz

You could be quite right about Diprobase if used regularly.
There must be a lot of variation in the way people react.
It's a bonus for you if you like the smell of it.
i don't know if I'm surprised or not that there are so many people on
this NG with similar problems.
This thread may be useful to some as a cautionary tale. I'd certainly
advise people to use any means available to avoid developing the
condition because treating it is a lot more troublesome than
preventing it.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:14:55 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/06/2010 12:25, Mike Halmarack wrote:

I recently got a box of blue nitrile gloves via ebay which were
described by the seller as 'mechanic' quality. they weren't man enough
to survive the changing of a bike tyre though.
I'll try your suggestion of the dental catalogue variety in the hope
that they're a bit more sturdy.

If doing something that I know will perish the glove, then I usually
wear two pairs on the hand doing most work. That way you get a chance to
swap the outer one without getting whatever on you in the process.

That's something I usually do now, although it can get a little
frustrating where fiddly jobs are concerned.

I'm currently servicing some bicycles and this is mainly done wearing
some butch (black) Marigolds over the standard disposable blue nitrile
gloves. Handling the small nuts and bolts for fitting racks and
mudguards is a bit of a challenge. Wearing 2 pairs of nitrile gloves
in the past has sometimes resulted in oily fingers and thumbs, then
it's goodbye workshop for a couple of weeks or more.

As compensation my computer skills have improved accordingly. It's
just a matter of keeping the bits of skin from clogging the keyboard
by means of regular vacuuming sessions. Typing with gloves on really
is a chore and using the touchpad on the laptop is also a memorable
experience thus clad.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

You might find typing with these on easier - though the finer scales may
still get through. You generally see them in use to keep grease from the
hands off valuable books and tat, while still maintaining some sensitivity:
http://www.gloves4work.co.uk/product...t=search_group

They may also help when contact with the drier irritants or surfaces is the
problem - as in fruit picking, say.

S

On 23 June, 14:08, Mike Halmarack wrote:

some butch (black) Marigolds over the standard disposable blue nitrile

Marigold make good industrial gloves, as well as the Happy Shopper
sort. They do both extra-thin and extra-thick. I think Arco had them?

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:17:52 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:
I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.


That's why I suggested unscented talcum powder. I think it used to be
known as French chalk. As Spamlet suggested further down, there is
also corn starch, from Johnson & Johnson's baby range.

I have used cotton gloves in the past, either on their own (with
unscented talcum) or with latex gloves over. I don't know if they
would work for you - your condition does sound quite severe - but they
may be worth trying.

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:17:26 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 11:02:42 +0100, Dave Osborne
wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.


Diprobase.

http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/dipro...am_1_4303.html

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...wiki/Diprobase

Use it every day to moisturise and extra as a barrier cream. Best stuff
on the planet short of steroids, which cure the eczema, but prematurely
age and thin your skin.

It comes in 100g tubes or 500g pump-action dispensers. Ask for it at
your pharmacist. You can get it on prescription and save a few pennies
on the larger sized dispenser.

After years of putting up with the condition, or faffing around with
largely ineffective remedies I recently took this to the GP.
He prescribed steroids and Diprobase. The steroids seemed to clear up
the condition quickly during the time limited 2 week period, after
which further use of the steroids was proscribed.

Persevering with the Diprobase hand cream use, the condition kept
cycling through it's different stages continuously, without any
apparent chemical trigger (other than perhaps the Diprobase itself).

Also, the smell of the Diprobase was ringing alarm bells for me every
time I used it. Others commented on the nasty smell of the stuff too.
So, perhaps mistakenly identifying this as the culprit, rather than
the recent steroid use, I chucked the Diprobase in the bin. 3 weeks
later I'm back to normal Contact Dermatitis, or hand Eczema.


My experience too. Diprobase doesn't work for me, nor does aqueous
cream. Both aggravate rather than relieve my dermatitis.

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 15:30:51 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:


"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:14:55 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/06/2010 12:25, Mike Halmarack wrote:

I recently got a box of blue nitrile gloves via ebay which were
described by the seller as 'mechanic' quality. they weren't man enough
to survive the changing of a bike tyre though.
I'll try your suggestion of the dental catalogue variety in the hope
that they're a bit more sturdy.

If doing something that I know will perish the glove, then I usually
wear two pairs on the hand doing most work. That way you get a chance to
swap the outer one without getting whatever on you in the process.

That's something I usually do now, although it can get a little
frustrating where fiddly jobs are concerned.

I'm currently servicing some bicycles and this is mainly done wearing
some butch (black) Marigolds over the standard disposable blue nitrile
gloves. Handling the small nuts and bolts for fitting racks and
mudguards is a bit of a challenge. Wearing 2 pairs of nitrile gloves
in the past has sometimes resulted in oily fingers and thumbs, then
it's goodbye workshop for a couple of weeks or more.

As compensation my computer skills have improved accordingly. It's
just a matter of keeping the bits of skin from clogging the keyboard
by means of regular vacuuming sessions. Typing with gloves on really
is a chore and using the touchpad on the laptop is also a memorable
experience thus clad.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

You might find typing with these on easier - though the finer scales may
still get through. You generally see them in use to keep grease from the
hands off valuable books and tat, while still maintaining some sensitivity:
http://www.gloves4work.co.uk/product...t=search_group

They may also help when contact with the drier irritants or surfaces is the
problem - as in fruit picking, say.

I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 08:03:43 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 23 June, 14:08, Mike Halmarack wrote:

some butch (black) Marigolds over the standard disposable blue nitrile

Marigold make good industrial gloves, as well as the Happy Shopper
sort. They do both extra-thin and extra-thick. I think Arco had them?

I'll try anything, even in pink.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 17:28:57 +0100, Bruce
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:17:52 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:
I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.


That's why I suggested unscented talcum powder. I think it used to be
known as French chalk. As Spamlet suggested further down, there is
also corn starch, from Johnson & Johnson's baby range.

Corn starch sounds like a safe bet and I've not had an allergic
reaction to handling tortillas to date so that seems quite promising.

I have used cotton gloves in the past, either on their own (with
unscented talcum) or with latex gloves over. I don't know if they
would work for you - your condition does sound quite severe - but they
may be worth trying.

I don't see myself as having a particularly severe condition, not in
the Dennis Potter sense anyway. What's severe is the frustration of
suddenly not being able to work with my hands half way through a job.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:24:11 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 17:28:57 +0100, Bruce
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:17:52 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:52:07 +0100, Bruce
wrote:
I suffer from contact dermatitis. I have a particular aversion to
cement, which has been difficult considering that most of my career
has had at least some connection with concrete, bricks and mortar.

Cement was the first to affect me, before the inclusion of glue, oil
and a lot of household cleaners. It comes as quite a shock after
playing around in the stuff for years with no obvious ill effects.

I use Savlon barrier cream. It is cheap and effective. I don't know
if it will work for you, but it must be worth giving it a try.

It will be worth giving it a try, so thanks for the advice.

If using latex gloves, sprinkle some unscented talcum powder inside
them before you put them on. It absorbs moisture and gives you a
longer time before your hands begin to get clammy.

I'd love this to be true for me but somehow latex, talcum powder or
both together usually seem to coincide with a flare up.


That's why I suggested unscented talcum powder. I think it used to be
known as French chalk. As Spamlet suggested further down, there is
also corn starch, from Johnson & Johnson's baby range.

Corn starch sounds like a safe bet and I've not had an allergic
reaction to handling tortillas to date so that seems quite promising.

I have used cotton gloves in the past, either on their own (with
unscented talcum) or with latex gloves over. I don't know if they
would work for you - your condition does sound quite severe - but they
may be worth trying.

I don't see myself as having a particularly severe condition, not in
the Dennis Potter sense anyway. What's severe is the frustration of
suddenly not being able to work with my hands half way through a job.


I'm at that stage with cement. But as you said further up the thread,
with care, it can be managed. It's just a question of finding what
works for you then sticking to it.

I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I used to
use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly robust and cheap
combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning for the
hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Spamlet"
saying something like:

Also,
wearing gloves can be dodgy because one often does not notice when there is
a hole, until taking them off and finding no finger nail etc...

Jeez, that sounds nasty.

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100, robert
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I used to
use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly robust and cheap
combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning for the
hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so good
for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to the usual
chemical culprits would be so useful.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On 23/06/2010 09:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.


You can get cotton inner fingerless gloves, the cotton absorbs sweat,
then get whatever gloves you like, nitrile are usually good. If you are
wearing them for a long time, it is advisable to wash your hands and
apply some barrier cream before gloving up, and change the gloves after
4 hours. Once you have finished, wash hands and apply handcream.

I used to work in a cleanroom environment and using that method, never
saw any problem with eczema. Even people who did suffer were able to
work without inflaming their condition. Also note that there is very
little you cannot do wearing cotton liners and gloves.

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:05:25 +0100, Vernon
wrote:


You can get cotton inner fingerless gloves, the cotton absorbs sweat,
then get whatever gloves you like, nitrile are usually good. If you are
wearing them for a long time, it is advisable to wash your hands and
apply some barrier cream before gloving up, and change the gloves after
4 hours. Once you have finished, wash hands and apply handcream.

That's very helpful thanks. Until now I've tended to use the smallest
glove size possible, thinking that this will have a more dexterous
effect on handling small items. With cotton gloves under, even
fingerless ones I'll need to go up a size which may reduce this
(imagined?) effect.

I used to work in a cleanroom environment and using that method, never
saw any problem with eczema. Even people who did suffer were able to
work without inflaming their condition. Also note that there is very
little you cannot do wearing cotton liners and gloves.

I'll go along with that. As time goes by, working with gloves on does
become easier.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100, robert
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I used to
use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly robust and cheap
combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning for the
hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so good
for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to the usual
chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats (10,000
gallons of DI water at 95C) and plating/cleaning vats (chromic acid;
cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity and positional awareness
outweighed protection from a possible slip.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals, oils and
greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the places that had
hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard to clean as before. Only
the parts not mechanically worn were clean.
Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at first.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Spamlet"
saying something like:

Also,
wearing gloves can be dodgy because one often does not notice when there
is
a hole, until taking them off and finding no finger nail etc...

Jeez, that sounds nasty.

Not uncommon when working with caustic soda.

S

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100, robert
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I used to
use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly robust and cheap
combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning for the
hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so good
for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to the usual
chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats (10,000
gallons of DI water at 95C) and plating/cleaning vats (chromic acid;
cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity and positional awareness
outweighed protection from a possible slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals, oils and
greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the places that had
hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard to clean as before. Only
the parts not mechanically worn were clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at first.

Life's a bleach :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:38:32 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100, robert
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but I'll get
some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I used to
use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly robust and cheap
combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning for the
hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so good
for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to the usual
chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats (10,000
gallons of DI water at 95C) and plating/cleaning vats (chromic acid;
cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity and positional awareness
outweighed protection from a possible slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals, oils and
greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the places that had
hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard to clean as before. Only
the parts not mechanically worn were clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at first.

Life's a bleach :-)

And then Tide comes in!
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:38:32 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100, robert
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but
I'll get some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I
used to use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly
robust and cheap combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning
for the hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from
ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so
good for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to
the usual chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats
(10,000 gallons of DI water at 95C) and plating/cleaning vats
(chromic acid; cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity
and positional awareness outweighed protection from a possible slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals,
oils and greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the
places that had hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard to
clean as before. Only the parts not mechanically worn were clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at
first.

Life's a bleach :-)

And then Tide comes in!

Daz amazing!

John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 22:40, Clot wrote:
PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:38:32 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100,
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but
I'll get some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I
used to use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly
robust and cheap combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning
for the hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from
ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so
good for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to
the usual chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats
(10,000 gallons of DI water at95C) and plating/cleaning vats
(chromic acid; cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity
and positional awareness outweighed protection from a possible
slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals,
oils and greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the
places that had hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard
to clean as before. Only the parts not mechanically worn were
clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at
first.

Life's a bleach :-)

And then Tide comes in!

Daz amazing!


Bold statement! (what fron was it written in, Arial?)

A Fairy Surfed in.

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Since this seems to be yet another thread that refuses to die, I think it's
about time that someone pointed out that rubber is said to have become known
to the European explorers from the way native South Americans used to dip
their feet in latex as an early 'liquid welly': which is what came to mind
when I first saw the question. Don't know if the natives got dermatitis,
but neither do I know how they can walk about in the forest in bare feet
without their skin filling up with water and falling off as mine does in the
wet even when very hard when dry!

Anyhow: I don't want to extend the thread into yet another huge if
interesting diversion, so cheers all.

S

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:34:01 +0100, "Clot"
wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 22:40, Clot wrote:
PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:38:32 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100,
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but
I'll get some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I
used to use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly
robust and cheap combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning
for the hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from
ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so
good for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to
the usual chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats
(10,000 gallons of DI water at95C) and plating/cleaning vats
(chromic acid; cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity
and positional awareness outweighed protection from a possible
slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals,
oils and greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the
places that had hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard
to clean as before. Only the parts not mechanically worn were
clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at
first.

Life's a bleach :-)

And then Tide comes in!

Daz amazing!


Bold statement! (what fron was it written in, Arial?)

A Fairy Surfed in ...

.... quick as a Flash, on the arm of Mr Muscle.

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:39:49 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:


"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
.. .
Over the last few years in my current home, there's been a saddening
decrease in the production of half finished jobs.

I blame the onset of hand eczema, which flares up after contact with
many household and workshop chemicals and stops me in my tracks.
I've tried latex and nitrile gloves. The ones thin enough to allow
reasonably precise handling usually disintegrate just at the wrong
moment. They also become disturbingly moisture filled during quite
short periods of use.

I've been Googling around on the subject and have seen several
versions of "Liquid Gloves", such as this one on ebay:
http://tiny.cc/fndjk

Up until now I've used a lot of Neutrogena concentrated hand cream
which is pretty good, though quite expensive when used in generous
quantities. It also tends to wash off a little too easily in wet
conditions.


Can anyone recommend an effective product from their own experience,
or even offer a formula for producing a batch of home made variant?
I see that a lot of the more resilient hand creams contain glycerine
which is quite easily available.

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Since this seems to be yet another thread that refuses to die, I think it's
about time that someone pointed out that rubber is said to have become known
to the European explorers from the way native South Americans used to dip
their feet in latex as an early 'liquid welly': which is what came to mind
when I first saw the question.

Must be a great cure for hairy feet.

Don't know if the natives got dermatitis,
but neither do I know how they can walk about in the forest in bare feet
without their skin filling up with water and falling off as mine does in the
wet even when very hard when dry!

The bottom of my feet is where I do like to lose it from time to time,
though I can see that there would need to be a limit.

Anyhow: I don't want to extend the thread into yet another huge if
interesting diversion, so cheers all.

S


--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:13:37 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 25/06/2010 01:20, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:34:01 +0100,
wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 22:40, Clot wrote:
PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:38:32 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:11 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:29:37 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:15 +0100,
wrote:



I haven't gone as far as getting cotton gloves previously but
I'll get some of these and give them a try, thanks

I used to find cotton gloves with some sort of plastic glove ( I
used to use disposable vinyl gloves)over the top a surprisingly
robust and cheap combination .
The plastic keeps the dirt out the cotton gives some cushioning
for the hands AND the gloves.
I used to get a cheap loose knitted or woven cotton glove from
ARCO.

No good for delicate stuff though.

That's it really, helpful combination for hand protection, not so
good for fiddly jobs. This is why a 'liquid glove', impervious to
the usual chemical culprits would be so useful.

Be careful - a 'tear' is even less obvious
For some chemical jobs, such as taking samples from sealing vats
(10,000 gallons of DI water at95C) and plating/cleaning vats
(chromic acid; cyanide solutions) I found that the full dexterity
and positional awareness outweighed protection from a possible
slip.

Appreciated, though fitting a bike rack has somewhat different
priority levels.

Also tried a 'liquid glove': supposed to work with many chemicals,
oils and greases, then make washing easy. Yes it worked, but the
places that had hard use on fasteners were just as oily and hard
to clean as before. Only the parts not mechanically worn were
clean.

Maybe a liquid glove under a nitrile glove for the belt and braces
effect that John Rumm suggested earlier

Chemicals would be far worse as there's often no indication at
first.

Life's a bleach :-)

And then Tide comes in!

Daz amazing!


Bold statement! (what fron was it written in, Arial?)

A Fairy Surfed in ...

.... quick as a Flash, on the arm of Mr Muscle.

Bang! and the fairy is gone!

This is supposed to be a serious subject but don't let that deter
gents.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack