I've been given a builder's barrow in good condition that has lost one
of the wheel shaft bearings - the sort that are bolted onto the frame
with two coach bolts. I took it on the basis that I reckoned on
recycling the bush (or bushes and wheel) from an existing clapped out
barrow.

Anyone any ideas on how to remove the bolts as being coach bolts the
heads are rounded and there's no way of gripping them ? And before
anyone else suggests it - yes, I could just cut them off with the
angle grinder !! :)

Rob

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
I've been given a builder's barrow in good condition that has lost one
of the wheel shaft bearings - the sort that are bolted onto the frame
with two coach bolts. I took it on the basis that I reckoned on
recycling the bush (or bushes and wheel) from an existing clapped out
barrow.

Anyone any ideas on how to remove the bolts as being coach bolts the
heads are rounded and there's no way of gripping them ? And before
anyone else suggests it - yes, I could just cut them off with the
angle grinder !! :)



1) Just possible but they are probably too tight (or rusted) - Use hacksaw
to cut slots and the use large screwdriver.
or
2) Get one of those reverse thread bolt extractors like this
http://www.sourcingmap.com/pcs-damag...l?currency=GBP
then drill into the head and extract the bolt.
--
Tinkerer

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
I've been given a builder's barrow in good condition that has lost one
of the wheel shaft bearings - the sort that are bolted onto the frame
with two coach bolts. I took it on the basis that I reckoned on
recycling the bush (or bushes and wheel) from an existing clapped out
barrow.

Anyone any ideas on how to remove the bolts as being coach bolts the
heads are rounded and there's no way of gripping them ? And before
anyone else suggests it - yes, I could just cut them off with the
angle grinder !! :)

Rob

To give yourself the best chance (assuming they aren't really rivets...).
Squirt with plus gas or other penetrating oil. Then cut slot with hacksaw -
vibrations helping the oil do it's stuff. Then heat up with blowtorch and
spray with wd40 while it's still hot. That usually loosens things pretty
effectively, but if you have one, it is best to make your first unscrew
attempt with an impact driver.

Actually, I've just realised this is probably rubbish, because if you really
mean the bolts go right through and have nuts on the other end, they ought
to have square sections under the dome already to allow for nut removal and
tightening. Once you've got the nuts off, they may well need the 'heat
spanner' as above before you can knock the bolts through with a drift
though.

S

spamlet wrote:

To give yourself the best chance (assuming they aren't really rivets...).
Squirt with plus gas or other penetrating oil. Then cut slot with hacksaw -
vibrations helping the oil do it's stuff. Then heat up with blowtorch and
spray with wd40 while it's still hot. That usually loosens things pretty
effectively, but if you have one, it is best to make your first unscrew
attempt with an impact driver.

Actually, I've just realised this is probably rubbish, because if you really
mean the bolts go right through and have nuts on the other end, they ought
to have square sections under the dome already to allow for nut removal and
tightening. Once you've got the nuts off, they may well need the 'heat
spanner' as above before you can knock the bolts through with a drift
though.

Seems to me "blowtorch" plus "spray with WD40" might be a little more
spectacular than you had in mind.

The OP probably wants to be certain the blowtorch is out before
squirting. And that he has a safe exit route.

Andy

"Andy Champ" wrote in message
. uk...
spamlet wrote:

To give yourself the best chance (assuming they aren't really rivets...).
Squirt with plus gas or other penetrating oil. Then cut slot with
hacksaw - vibrations helping the oil do it's stuff. Then heat up with
blowtorch and spray with wd40 while it's still hot. That usually loosens
things pretty effectively, but if you have one, it is best to make your
first unscrew attempt with an impact driver.

Actually, I've just realised this is probably rubbish, because if you
really mean the bolts go right through and have nuts on the other end,
they ought to have square sections under the dome already to allow for
nut removal and tightening. Once you've got the nuts off, they may well
need the 'heat spanner' as above before you can knock the bolts through
with a drift though.

Seems to me "blowtorch" plus "spray with WD40" might be a little more
spectacular than you had in mind.

The OP probably wants to be certain the blowtorch is out before squirting.
And that he has a safe exit route.

Andy

Actually - as I have sometimes had to repeat the process several times over
on some stubborn blind bearings - setting fire to the WD40 is often
inevitable, as, indeed is setting fire to any grease that is left in the
bearings - and any rubber seals too. Normal workshop safety and ventilation
measures were taken as read; and modern click on and off blowtorches are a
great improvement in this respect.

S

On 3 May, 21:09, "spamlet" wrote:
"Andy Champ" wrote in message

. uk...



spamlet wrote:

To give yourself the best chance (assuming they aren't really rivets....).
Squirt with plus gas or other penetrating oil. *Then cut slot with
hacksaw - vibrations helping the oil do it's stuff. *Then heat up with
blowtorch and spray with wd40 while it's still hot. *That usually loosens
things pretty effectively, but if you have one, it is best to make your
first unscrew attempt with an impact driver.

Actually, I've just realised this is probably rubbish, because if you
really mean the bolts go right through and have nuts on the other end,
they ought to have square sections under the dome already to allow for
nut removal and tightening. *Once you've got the nuts off, they may well
need the 'heat spanner' as above before you can knock the bolts through
with a drift though.

Seems to me "blowtorch" plus "spray with WD40" might be a little more
spectacular than you had in mind.

The OP probably wants to be certain the blowtorch is out before squirting.
And that he has a safe exit route.

Andy

Actually - as I have sometimes had to repeat the process several times over
on some stubborn blind bearings - setting fire to the WD40 is often
inevitable, as, indeed is setting fire to any grease that is left in the
bearings - and any rubber seals too. *Normal workshop safety and ventilation
measures were taken as read; and modern click on and off blowtorches are a
great improvement in this respect.

S

Had another look guys - it's going to be the angle grinder. Too
rusty, the square hole for the shank has clearly corroded away as well
and trying to get in with a big enough screwdriver into a hacksawed
slot is just not going to work. And anyway the bolts would have to be
replaced.

Many thanks
Rob

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
On 3 May, 21:09, "spamlet" wrote:
"Andy Champ" wrote in message

. uk...



spamlet wrote:

To give yourself the best chance (assuming they aren't really
rivets...).
Squirt with plus gas or other penetrating oil. Then cut slot with
hacksaw - vibrations helping the oil do it's stuff. Then heat up with
blowtorch and spray with wd40 while it's still hot. That usually
loosens
things pretty effectively, but if you have one, it is best to make your
first unscrew attempt with an impact driver.

Actually, I've just realised this is probably rubbish, because if you
really mean the bolts go right through and have nuts on the other end,
they ought to have square sections under the dome already to allow for
nut removal and tightening. Once you've got the nuts off, they may well
need the 'heat spanner' as above before you can knock the bolts through
with a drift though.

Seems to me "blowtorch" plus "spray with WD40" might be a little more
spectacular than you had in mind.

The OP probably wants to be certain the blowtorch is out before
squirting.
And that he has a safe exit route.

Andy

Actually - as I have sometimes had to repeat the process several times
over
on some stubborn blind bearings - setting fire to the WD40 is often
inevitable, as, indeed is setting fire to any grease that is left in the
bearings - and any rubber seals too. Normal workshop safety and
ventilation
measures were taken as read; and modern click on and off blowtorches are a
great improvement in this respect.

S

Had another look guys - it's going to be the angle grinder. Too
rusty, the square hole for the shank has clearly corroded away as well
and trying to get in with a big enough screwdriver into a hacksawed
slot is just not going to work. And anyway the bolts would have to be
replaced.
Rob

With stainless, for next time... and nylock nuts.

S