Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

Cheers

Tim





--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Hmmm - most constructional timber sizes are imported as regularised
and treated, though some larger sections are sawn and treated

I guess you need to match existing timber dimensions exactly?

Height only or height and width?

Height only, find someone with a table saw - or maybe a handheld
circular saw with some jiggery-pokery.

Height and width - bite the bullet - and get it pushed through a
thicknesser - shouldn't really be *that* expensive.

Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.


eh? any builders merchant will do you rough sawn untreated lumber.

Cheers

Tim

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 00:43:14 -0700, " wibbled:

Hmmm - most constructional timber sizes are imported as regularised and
treated, though some larger sections are sawn and treated

I guess you need to match existing timber dimensions exactly?



Height only or height and width?

Both: height obviously as flooring's on top. Width too as I'll be plating
this one with ply (only replacing half the run that's twisted).

I have one other joist to pack up from new (600mm gap between the
neighbouring 8x2s, rather bouncy floor in that region. In this case I'll
glue and screw the new 4x2 onto the existing ceiling rafter.

Height only, find someone with a table saw - or maybe a handheld
circular saw with some jiggery-pokery.

Height and width - bite the bullet - and get it pushed through a
thicknesser - shouldn't really be *that* expensive.

I guess so - I'll ask them.

Cheers

Tim



--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:52:15 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wibbled:

Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.


eh? any builders merchant will do you rough sawn untreated lumber.

Builder's Merchants and wood is not usually a connection I make, but I'll
have a look at Parkers - good pointer - ta.

Tim





--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

--
*Avoid clichés like the plague. (They're old hat.) *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:28:00 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Really? Interesting... I've seen joists attached horizontally plenty of
times, but not vertically - wouldn't that be less sound structurally
because the 'thin' boards are trying to bend and putting stress on
whatever's attaching them together?

I've had the same prob. getting rough stuff this side of t'pond too - all
the big places do only dimensional stuff; I'd probably have to go direct
to a mill to get anything else. Luckily I only needed about 8', and we
had a derelict shed way out back which gave up one of its timbers...

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:47:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not by much, at least over here - it's less than 10% extra for treated.
Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is different?)
is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail catostrophically
within a few years; at least with untreated you can use any old screws
and nails without worry.

cheers

Jules

In article , Jules Richardson
scribeth thus
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:47:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not by much, at least over here - it's less than 10% extra for treated.
Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is different?)
is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail catostrophically
within a few years; at least with untreated you can use any old screws
and nails without worry.

cheers

Jules



In the |UK its referred to as Tanalised .. might have misspelt that but
as far as I know that doesn't corrode metal or does it??....
--
Tony Sayer

tony sayer wrote:
In article , Jules Richardson
scribeth thus
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:47:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?
I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).
Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.
As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?
Not by much, at least over here - it's less than 10% extra for treated.
Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is different?)
is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail catostrophically
within a few years; at least with untreated you can use any old screws
and nails without worry.

cheers

Jules



In the |UK its referred to as Tanalised .. might have misspelt that but
as far as I know that doesn't corrode metal or does it??....

Not that I am aware of, no,

Tanalising is only one sort of treatment tho.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:31:47 +0000, Jules Richardson
wibbled:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:28:00 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Really? Interesting... I've seen joists attached horizontally plenty of
times, but not vertically - wouldn't that be less sound structurally
because the 'thin' boards are trying to bend and putting stress on
whatever's attaching them together?

It was done in a few areas where they couldn't trivially get 8x2" in
during a loft conversion. I've been beefing them up by plating the sides
with ply, but mostly because it is easy now, rather any absolute need -
they've been there 30 years.

I'm happy to make an exception to my usual perfectionism and pull the
stunt once more to close down a 2' span of the floor boards to something
more sensible - there strength is less important as it will be 200mm away
from an 8x2 - it just makes the floorboards go "boing" less.

I've had the same prob. getting rough stuff this side of t'pond too -
all the big places do only dimensional stuff; I'd probably have to go
direct to a mill to get anything else. Luckily I only needed about 8',
and we had a derelict shed way out back which gave up one of its
timbers...

Alsfords said they could take the next size PAR and plane it down to
100x50mm (excatly what I need) but it seems silly as AFAIK the modern PAR
that is just down from 100x50 is derived from a bit of sawn 4x2, so why
not get the 4x2 in the first place (and Alsfords are expensive).

I could use treated garden stuff, but I'm not sure if I could get a 3.4m
length.


--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:35:32 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson wrote:

Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is different?)
is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail catostrophically
within a few years; at least with untreated you can use any old screws
and nails without worry.

cheers

Jules

Didn't know about that problem - is it bad on unplated nails and screws?

All of my new shed is treated timber, but the screws and nails are all
stainless steel.
The treated timber around the new loft hatch is held in place with
galvanised nailes and the hatch frame with plated screws - are they OK?
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:01:31 +0100, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:35:32 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson wrote:

Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is
different?) is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail
catostrophically within a few years; at least with untreated you can
use any old screws and nails without worry.

Didn't know about that problem - is it bad on unplated nails and screws?

All of my new shed is treated timber, but the screws and nails are all
stainless steel.
The treated timber around the new loft hatch is held in place with
galvanised nailes and the hatch frame with plated screws - are they OK?

It depends what it's been treated with, and I'm not familiar with the
typical UK treating process (other than remembering painting fences with
creosote as a kid :-)

Over here it's all pressure-treated wood, and the preservatives used (I
believe it's the copper in them) react with steel fastners, corroding
them and resulting in eventual failure (in as little as a couple of
years, I've read before). Stainless is generally recommended, or hot-
dipped galvanised (but not necessarily fastners galvanised by other
means).

I'm currently worrying about the dog-pen I built last year as I used
galvanised screws there believing them to be OK, but only read later
about the hot-dipping aspect and I'm not sure if the ones I had were. I'm
tempted to swap them all for stainless sooner rather than later, just in
case!

cheers

Jules

On 14/04/2010 14:32, Jules Richardson wrote:

I'm currently worrying about the dog-pen I built last year as I used
galvanised screws there believing them to be OK, but only read later
about the hot-dipping aspect and I'm not sure if the ones I had were. I'm
tempted to swap them all for stainless sooner rather than later, just in
case!

I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the preservative used
here contains copper, chromium and arsenic and is not recommended for
animal use because of the likelihood of them chewing it and ingesting
the chemicals.

Andrew

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:55:57 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:31:47 +0000, Jules Richardson
wibbled:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:28:00 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Really? Interesting... I've seen joists attached horizontally plenty of
times, but not vertically - wouldn't that be less sound structurally
because the 'thin' boards are trying to bend and putting stress on
whatever's attaching them together?

It was done in a few areas where they couldn't trivially get 8x2" in
during a loft conversion. I've been beefing them up by plating the sides
with ply, but mostly because it is easy now, rather any absolute need -
they've been there 30 years.

Oh, OK - misunderstood; I thought you were describing boards on their
sides to make a 4x4" joist, not an 8x2". I can now go and relax with a
coffee, safe in the knowledge that your house isn't going to fall down ;-)

I'm happy to make an exception to my usual perfectionism and pull the
stunt once more to close down a 2' span of the floor boards to something
more sensible - there strength is less important as it will be 200mm
away from an 8x2 - it just makes the floorboards go "boing" less.

Yeah, sounds like a plan. Do you mean you currently have 2' between
existing joists, or that the joist span between supporting structure
below is only 2'? The deflection of an 8x2" over only 2' will be sixteen
shades of bugger all :-)

I've had the same prob. getting rough stuff this side of t'pond too -
all the big places do only dimensional stuff; I'd probably have to go
direct to a mill to get anything else. Luckily I only needed about 8',
and we had a derelict shed way out back which gave up one of its
timbers...

Alsfords said they could take the next size PAR and plane it down to
100x50mm (excatly what I need) but it seems silly as AFAIK the modern
PAR that is just down from 100x50 is derived from a bit of sawn 4x2, so
why not get the 4x2 in the first place (and Alsfords are expensive).

Yeah - see if you have any sawmills in your area as you might be able to
talk to them direct. As you need so little, they might even just give you
what you need...

I could use treated garden stuff, but I'm not sure if I could get a 3.4m
length.

Check out somewhere that supplies decking materials - they'd have
something intended for the sub-structure that was long enough, although I
suspect that they might all be dimensional and so not the exact 8x2" that
you need. Perhaps worth a phone call, though.

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:46:05 +0100, Andrew May wrote:

On 14/04/2010 14:32, Jules Richardson wrote:

I'm currently worrying about the dog-pen I built last year as I used
galvanised screws there believing them to be OK, but only read later
about the hot-dipping aspect and I'm not sure if the ones I had were.
I'm tempted to swap them all for stainless sooner rather than later,
just in case!

I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the preservative used
here contains copper, chromium and arsenic and is not recommended for
animal use because of the likelihood of them chewing it and ingesting
the chemicals.

Used to be like that here in the US, too, but they banned it several
years ago - all the new stock uses something* else, but it still contains
copper and/or stuff that eats fastners :-(

* CA and ACQ - the 'C' is copper, but I can't remember what the other
letters stand for :-)

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:46:05 +0100, Andrew May
wibbled:

On 14/04/2010 14:32, Jules Richardson wrote:

I'm currently worrying about the dog-pen I built last year as I used
galvanised screws there believing them to be OK, but only read later
about the hot-dipping aspect and I'm not sure if the ones I had were.
I'm tempted to swap them all for stainless sooner rather than later,
just in case!

I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the preservative used
here contains copper, chromium and arsenic and is not recommended for
animal use because of the likelihood of them chewing it and ingesting
the chemicals.

Andrew

The As bit is banned here and has been for a little while at least.

But I'm interested in the Cu component corroding screws. I was
subconsciously worried about something like this, but I was considering
how well glue would or wouldn't stick to it.

Think I would insist on untreated now...



--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:04:12 +0000, Jules Richardson
wibbled:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:55:57 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:31:47 +0000, Jules Richardson
wibbled:

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:28:00 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top
of 4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Really? Interesting... I've seen joists attached horizontally plenty
of times, but not vertically - wouldn't that be less sound
structurally because the 'thin' boards are trying to bend and putting
stress on whatever's attaching them together?

It was done in a few areas where they couldn't trivially get 8x2" in
during a loft conversion. I've been beefing them up by plating the
sides with ply, but mostly because it is easy now, rather any absolute
need - they've been there 30 years.

Oh, OK - misunderstood; I thought you were describing boards on their
sides to make a 4x4" joist, not an 8x2". I can now go and relax with a
coffee, safe in the knowledge that your house isn't going to fall down
;-)


Hasn't yet, despite the best efforts of various builders! ;-O

I'm happy to make an exception to my usual perfectionism and pull the
stunt once more to close down a 2' span of the floor boards to
something more sensible - there strength is less important as it will
be 200mm away from an 8x2 - it just makes the floorboards go "boing"
less.

Yeah, sounds like a plan. Do you mean you currently have 2' between
existing joists, or that the joist span between supporting structure
below is only 2'? The deflection of an 8x2" over only 2' will be sixteen
shades of bugger all :-)

2' between one pair of joists - most spacings are either 400mm or 500mm
(varies for some reason) which are OK. 600mm on this one pair is causing
noticeable bounce in the floor.

However, 150-200 odd mm away from one of the joists, there is a 4x2
ceiling joist that's begging to have another bit of 4x2 glued and screwed
down onto it which means all my joist spacings are 500mm or less - which
seems to make all the difference.


I've had the same prob. getting rough stuff this side of t'pond too -
all the big places do only dimensional stuff; I'd probably have to go
direct to a mill to get anything else. Luckily I only needed about 8',
and we had a derelict shed way out back which gave up one of its
timbers...

Alsfords said they could take the next size PAR and plane it down to
100x50mm (excatly what I need) but it seems silly as AFAIK the modern
PAR that is just down from 100x50 is derived from a bit of sawn 4x2, so
why not get the 4x2 in the first place (and Alsfords are expensive).

Yeah - see if you have any sawmills in your area as you might be able to
talk to them direct. As you need so little, they might even just give
you what you need...

Only found one mill and they specialise in oak.

I could use treated garden stuff, but I'm not sure if I could get a
3.4m length.

Check out somewhere that supplies decking materials - they'd have
something intended for the sub-structure that was long enough, although
I suspect that they might all be dimensional and so not the exact 8x2"
that you need. Perhaps worth a phone call, though.

cheers

Jules

Yes - decking's an idea[1]. Haven't researched the sizes yet - and the
problem of treated wood rears its head.

I'll try a rummage in the Thompson local and see if there are any timber
yards that I haven't found yet.

[1] I've cleared open an old pedestrian path that goes through the hedge
on the other end of my land (corner plot). Needs a gate. Reckon I might
make a gate out of decking joists (frame) and decking surface - should
last forever

Cheers

Tim



--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top
of 4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not only that, you have to take a bit more care cutting treated timber
inside to avoid too much toxic dust floating about or being left in the
fabric of the building.


Worth pointing out that "rough sawn" softwood isn't dry enough for
interior use, and will almost certainly distort as it dries out. Roofing
battens are sometimes actually wet to the touch, so heaven knows what
the actual moisture content is. Standard PAR redwood is dried to around
17%, which is about right for this application.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:32:40 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson wrote:


Problem with treated (at least here, maybe the UK process is
different?) is the need to use fastners that won't react and fail
catostrophically within a few years; at least with untreated you can
use any old screws and nails without worry.

Didn't know about that problem - is it bad on unplated nails and screws?

All of my new shed is treated timber, but the screws and nails are all
stainless steel.
The treated timber around the new loft hatch is held in place with
galvanised nailes and the hatch frame with plated screws - are they OK?

It depends what it's been treated with, and I'm not familiar with the
typical UK treating process (other than remembering painting fences with
creosote as a kid :-)

Over here it's all pressure-treated wood, and the preservatives used (I
believe it's the copper in them) react with steel fastners, corroding
them and resulting in eventual failure (in as little as a couple of
years, I've read before). Stainless is generally recommended, or hot-
dipped galvanised (but not necessarily fastners galvanised by other
means).

I'm currently worrying about the dog-pen I built last year as I used
galvanised screws there believing them to be OK, but only read later
about the hot-dipping aspect and I'm not sure if the ones I had were. I'm
tempted to swap them all for stainless sooner rather than later, just in
case!

cheers

Jules

The timber came from Wickes, sawn and treated, then additional treatment
was with Wickes rot/woodworm gloop of a couple of sorts - just on the bits
that were cut and also those parts that would be inaccessible after
assembly.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:23:48 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:
But I'm interested in the Cu component corroding screws. I was
subconsciously worried about something like this, but I was considering
how well glue would or wouldn't stick to it.

Think I would insist on untreated now...

Well, if it's indoors and not in direct contact with moisture (e.g.
concrete floors / walls) then I can't see a real need to use treated
anyway. It might even be a hinderance in some situations, given how much
it weighs compared to untreated.

cheers

Jules

stuart noble wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top
of 4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not only that, you have to take a bit more care cutting treated timber
inside to avoid too much toxic dust floating about or being left in
the fabric of the building.


Worth pointing out that "rough sawn" softwood isn't dry enough for
interior use, and will almost certainly distort as it dries out. Roofing
battens are sometimes actually wet to the touch, so heaven knows what
the actual moisture content is. Standard PAR redwood is dried to around
17%, which is about right for this application.


It is dried to 17%, but then left outside in the rain, usually, in
timber yards.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on
top of 4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not only that, you have to take a bit more care cutting treated
timber inside to avoid too much toxic dust floating about or being
left in the fabric of the building.


Worth pointing out that "rough sawn" softwood isn't dry enough for
interior use, and will almost certainly distort as it dries out.
Roofing battens are sometimes actually wet to the touch, so heaven
knows what the actual moisture content is. Standard PAR redwood is
dried to around 17%, which is about right for this application.


It is dried to 17%, but then left outside in the rain, usually, in
timber yards.


Any decent timber merchant stores it outdoors, but under cover. That's
the best way to maintain the moisture content. Only the treated outdoor
stuff gets rained on.

Worth pointing out that "rough sawn" softwood isn't dry enough for
interior use, and will almost certainly distort as it dries out.

Rough sawn, just means rough sawn. Larger timber sections (e.g.
100*225mm) are usually supplied rough sawn - structural stuff will be
kiln-dried and strength graded as well.

stuart noble wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on
top of 4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane
the next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

As a matter of interest, why untreated?

cheaper innit?

Not only that, you have to take a bit more care cutting treated
timber inside to avoid too much toxic dust floating about or being
left in the fabric of the building.


Worth pointing out that "rough sawn" softwood isn't dry enough for
interior use, and will almost certainly distort as it dries out.
Roofing battens are sometimes actually wet to the touch, so heaven
knows what the actual moisture content is. Standard PAR redwood is
dried to around 17%, which is about right for this application.


It is dried to 17%, but then left outside in the rain, usually, in
timber yards.


Any decent timber merchant stores it outdoors, but under cover. That's
the best way to maintain the moisture content. Only the treated outdoor
stuff gets rained on.

yes, but the average humidity outside unheated, is higher than the
average humidity indoors, heated.

For attic work, they are of course fairly similar.

But internal studwork will always shrink a bit.

Tim Watts wrote:
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the
next size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.


Bats Building Supplies, Strood. I buy loads of 4 x 2 and 6 x 2 for decks.
Its sawn price, but so well sawn its as good as B&Q PAR :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.



Most timber merchanats are moving away from rough sawn ... to regularised or
CLS sizes.

My local Jewson have gone this way, but when I wanted some sawn sizes ..
they cut them for me.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:23:38 +0100, "Rick Hughes"
wibbled:

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.



Most timber merchanats are moving away from rough sawn ... to
regularised or CLS sizes.

My local Jewson have gone this way, but when I wanted some sawn sizes ..
they cut them for me.

Interesting - thanks



--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On 15 Apr, 20:23, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message

...

Can you still get it?

I need some 4x2" to replace some warped joists upstairs (4x2 on top of
4x2, top layer twisted and warped).

Alsford Timber claim not to do sawn timber, but they can plane the next
size up down, which is obviously going to cost more.

Most timber merchanats are moving away from rough sawn ... to regularised or
CLS sizes.

My local Jewson have gone this way, but when I wanted some sawn sizes ..
they cut them for me.

My local TP has gone that way too - all CLS, regularised, no rough
sawn, apart from battens. Made it awkward when needing to complete
some studwork already begun in 3x2 rough sawn ;-)

Cheers
Richard