Hi all

Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you chase
"passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it acceptable
to: chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking down behind unit
carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height of units), run
horizontally in trunking to below the next socket location, then trunk and
chase back up above work top for next socket?

Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column above
the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is it
necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space above?
Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen then
floor the areas that are on show?
If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on all
units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.


TIA

Phil

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all

Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you chase
"passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Just take the ringmain cables behind the cooker switch back box in a small
chase.

Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it
acceptable to: chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking
down behind unit carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height
of units), run horizontally in trunking to below the next socket location,
then trunk and chase back up above work top for next socket?

Yes

Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column
above the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is it
necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space above?

For straight out the wall usually a 5 inch hole through the wall somewhere
behind the chimney and flexible ducting from the extractor through this hole

Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

I usually put a fused spur ontop of a nearby wall unit and then run a length
of 1.5T&E from it to behind the chimney.

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Cheers

Adam

On 12 Apr, 16:10, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you chase
"passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it acceptable
to: *chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking down behind unit
carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height of units), run
horizontally in trunking to below the next socket location, then trunk and
chase back up above work top for next socket?

Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column above
the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is it
necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space above?
Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen then
floor the areas that are on show?
If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on all
units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.

TIA

Phil

I'll have to do this soon. I have it on my full plans.
How are you complying with part P ?
Simon.

ARWadsworth wrote:

"TheScullster" wrote in message

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Isn't that mandatory for Part L? One stat should be fine for two
heaters, if you are using water, as it is only the fans you are
switching.

It is hard to comment on heat distribution without knowing your
kitchen layout. They do have quite a long throw.

As far as fitting under the cabinets is concerned, then you need
to look at the dimensions. My kitchen units have quite shallow
plinths, and the fitters had to steal a little extra height to
get the Myson in. Only you can tell what is going on beneath your
intended units, and what their widths are between legs.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message
news
ARWadsworth wrote:

"TheScullster" wrote in message

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Isn't that mandatory for Part L? One stat should be fine for two
heaters, if you are using water, as it is only the fans you are
switching.

Probably not a requirement to add a room stat to make the kitchen a seperate
zone as there are some basic controls on the Myson. It is however certainly
worth fitting one if the kitchen is ripped to bits and the plinth heaters
are the only source of heat. TBH I have only seen them used as a
supplementary heat source.

One wall stat will control two heaters as the pumps are only about 30W.

Cheers

Adam

In article ,
"TheScullster" writes:
Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen then
floor the areas that are on show?

It's usual to fit flooring to the areas that are on show, but this
isn't sensible IMO, and isn't what I've done.

Which do you expect to last longer - the floor or the units?
If it's the floor, then do wall-to-wall before installing the units.
If it's the units, then put the floor down afterwards (and you can
replace it later if necessary).

If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on all
units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.

Yes, or you might not fit appliances under the worktops.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Apr 12, 4:26*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
Just take the ringmain cables behind the cooker
switch back box in a small chase.

Indeed, routing them through the same backbox as the cooker will be
"futile" re space.

That is unless it's the old "Drax sized" cooker switch & backbox :-)

ARWadsworth wrote:

"Chris J Dixon" wrote
ARWadsworth wrote:

"TheScullster" wrote in message

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Isn't that mandatory for Part L? One stat should be fine for two
heaters, if you are using water, as it is only the fans you are
switching.

Probably not a requirement to add a room stat to make the kitchen a seperate
zone as there are some basic controls on the Myson.

All they have is an "off/ low/ high" fan speed switch, plus an
internal thermostat which will only run the fan if the water pipe
is hot. The latter is in parallel with a second switch permitting
the fan to run for circulation only in summer.

It is however certainly
worth fitting one if the kitchen is ripped to bits and the plinth heaters
are the only source of heat. TBH I have only seen them used as a
supplementary heat source.

In my kitchen, a Myson is the only heat source. Since I have set
the thermostat relatively low, it only kicks in on really cold
mornings, as the kitchen is otherwise well enough heated from
cooking and solar gain.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

"ARWadsworth" wrote


Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you
chase "passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Just take the ringmain cables behind the cooker switch back box in a small
chase.

OK


Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it
acceptable to: chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking
down behind unit carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height
of units), run horizontally in trunking to below the next socket
location, then trunk and chase back up above work top for next socket?

Yes

GOOD


Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column
above the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is
it necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space
above?

For straight out the wall usually a 5 inch hole through the wall somewhere
behind the chimney and flexible ducting from the extractor through this
hole

OK


Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

I usually put a fused spur ontop of a nearby wall unit and then run a
length of 1.5T&E from it to behind the chimney.

OK


Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

YES


Cheers

Adam
Thanks for feedback Adam

"Chris J Dixon" wrote

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Isn't that mandatory for Part L? One stat should be fine for two
heaters, if you are using water, as it is only the fans you are
switching.

Yes it will be the water type I use


It is hard to comment on heat distribution without knowing your
kitchen layout. They do have quite a long throw.


Good point

As far as fitting under the cabinets is concerned, then you need
to look at the dimensions. My kitchen units have quite shallow
plinths, and the fitters had to steal a little extra height to
get the Myson in. Only you can tell what is going on beneath your
intended units, and what their widths are between legs.


The plinth height is 150mm.
I am talking to the kitchen supplier about this but was looking for general
feedback.

Thanks Chris

Phil

"sm_jamieson" wrote
snip.............kitchen wiring stuff

I'll have to do this soon. I have it on my full plans.
How are you complying with part P ?
Simon.

If it is part of your building regs submission, then your Building Control
Department should inspect first fix and final test at no extra charge.
I believe all this is covered in Part P somewhere but someone will be along
to remind us of the appropriate clause.

Phil

On Apr 12, 4:10*pm, "TheScullster" wrote:

Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen then
floor the areas that are on show?
If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on all
units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.

TIA

Phil

We had relatively expensive flooring (good quality tiles) so saved a
few £££ by not tiling to the walls under the kitchen units. I think
we left something like a 500mm gap between the tiles and the wall, so
in our case saved c. 7.5m2 of tiling expense.

That was all on the expectation that even if the kitchen units didn't
last 20 years, we would simply replace units in exactly the same place
anyway (its the only logical layout for our kitchen) so we would never
expect to have to tile that area.

Matt

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

It's usual to fit flooring to the areas that are on show, but this
isn't sensible IMO, and isn't what I've done.

Which do you expect to last longer - the floor or the units?
If it's the floor, then do wall-to-wall before installing the units.
If it's the units, then put the floor down afterwards (and you can
replace it later if necessary).

If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on
all
units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.

Yes, or you might not fit appliances under the worktops.


Thanks Andrew

How much effort should be put in to getting said floor level?
Laying a straight edge over it shows something like a 10mm run off to the
sides.
Is it necessary to try to rectify such a (relatively) small amount, or just
adjust the unit legs on installation?
Also, if I do build the floor up, it could generate a significant step at an
internal doorway.

Phil

"John Rumm" wrote


Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you
chase "passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Chase deeper - just take care when fixing the cooker backbox!

Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it
acceptable to: chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking
down behind unit carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height
of units), run horizontally in trunking to below the next socket
location, then trunk and chase back up above work top for next socket?

Yup - or the reverse - chase up to the ceiling and then either do the
horizontal run in the ceiling void, or use the 150mm cabling zone at the
intersection of wall and ceiling.

Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column
above the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is
it

Depends on the hood. Some have the option of straight out of the back as
well as ducted.

necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space
above?
Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

Usually fed from a fused spur somewhere...

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports?
Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better
distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw)
Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Don't know...

Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen
then floor the areas that are on show?

The former is easier but more expensive - so it depends on the cost of the
floor really.

If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on
all units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for
appliances.

They usually offer enough adjustment anyway to allow such choices to be
made.


Thanks John

Hi all

For those who have been kind enough to reply to this post, here is a link to
the current version of the layout.

http://www.wrenkitchens.com/kitchen-...?planId=226802

Thanks

Phil

Should have mentioned - you will need to select 3D View button on right,
then use the navigation and rotation controls to see something (fairly)
meaningful.

Phil

On 13 Apr, 09:01, "TheScullster" wrote:
"sm_jamieson" wrote
snip.............kitchen wiring stuff

I'll have to do this soon. I have it on my full plans.
How are you complying with part P ?
Simon.

If it is part of your building regs submission, then your Building Control
Department should inspect first fix and final test at no extra charge.
I believe all this is covered in Part P somewhere but someone will be along
to remind us of the appropriate clause.

Phil

Unfortunately - no chance ! I think they are allowed to charge extra
now anyway - there is another thread on it.
They required my building spec to say I would supply an electrical
certificate. The phrase is: "An electrical installation certificate as
defined in BS 7671 will be given to Building Control prior to
completion."
I didn't know better at the time. So its down to me to get a
certificate. Somehow ;-)
Simon.

TheScullster wrote:

For those who have been kind enough to reply to this post, here is a link to
the current version of the layout.

http://www.wrenkitchens.com/kitchen-...?planId=226802

Looks like you have plenty of room to play with there. Only you
can make your choices, but we nearly went with a built-in
fridge/freezer, then looked at how much extra capacity we could
get in a freestanding one that was 600 mm wide.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

"Chris J Dixon" wrote

Looks like you have plenty of room to play with there. Only you
can make your choices, but we nearly went with a built-in
fridge/freezer, then looked at how much extra capacity we could
get in a freestanding one that was 600 mm wide.

Wise words!
Unfortunately, there is a head on clash here between aesthetics and
functionality.
The fridge freezer is due to be located in one of the three tall units
behind the door.
Originally, I had a stand alone model in place of one of these, but
er-indoors says no.
Maybe if I mention the capacity argument this might give some leverage
hhmmmmm...

Phil

On Apr 13, 9:22*am, sm_jamieson wrote:
On 13 Apr, 09:01, "TheScullster" wrote:

They required my building spec to say I would supply an electrical
certificate. The phrase is: "An electrical installation certificate as
defined in BS 7671 will be given to Building Control prior to
completion."
I didn't know better at the time. So its down to me to get a
certificate. Somehow ;-)
Simon.


I'll be interested to know how you eventually solve this one.

Robert