I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..

Does the "paint" char rather than bubble as you would expect from
"ordinary" gloss paint?

I had this and someone suggested the wood had been emulsioned.

In the end I just rubbed it down and repainted.

If the skirting is just too horrible how about ripping it off and
replacing? Will probably damage the wall above the skirting

Clive

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..

Propbly worth just gritting the teeth and carrying on the loborious task
....still not as bad as removing tiles lol

"Clive" wrote in message
...
Does the "paint" char rather than bubble as you would expect from
"ordinary" gloss paint?

I had this and someone suggested the wood had been emulsioned.

In the end I just rubbed it down and repainted.

If the skirting is just too horrible how about ripping it off and
replacing? Will probably damage the wall above the skirting

Clive

Ello again

It kind of does, normally when heat gunning at least gloss it bubbles and
you can rip it right off, but this stuff is taking an age.

I I rip a sander along it but the paint is so nasty and yellowing from white
as the person previous was a heavy smoker so its been a touch jobgetting
that smell out and with fresh paint it all helps.

My wifes ooo wife says she wants it totally stripped off as it was
"disgusting" and sanded and then prepped and painted fresh bah.

When I first started I thought hmm that will sand nicely and just repaint.

I like the idea of replacing it, but I'm half way through. Although the
electric bbill should be nice and high lol.

"Matthew.Ridges" wrote in message
...
I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell
You don't say how thick the paint is; or how sticky.
If it is not hugely both, you will find you get a better finish with a
scarsden type scraper. And this avoids burning the wood too - and depending
on the grain, may give you a better finish than sanding. I love scrapers:
just one tip: keep a file in your pocket for dragging over the blade
regularly to renew the burr - then one blade lasts for years.

Mind you, I got fed up with all the kneeling when I did ours, and discovered
it was quicker and easier in the end to take the boards off and plane them.
When putting them back I made sure to leave the screws as 'features' for
ease of removal next time. Now we have electric screwdrivers, this total
stripdown approach often works out easier.

S

On Mar 23, 11:00*pm, "Matthew.Ridges" wrote:
"Clive" wrote in message

...

Does the "paint" char rather than bubble as you would expect from
"ordinary" gloss paint?

I had this and someone suggested the wood had been emulsioned.

In the end I just rubbed it down and repainted.

If the skirting is just too horrible how about ripping it off and
replacing? Will probably damage the wall above the skirting

Clive

Ello again

It kind of does, normally when heat gunning at least gloss it bubbles and
you can rip it right off, but this stuff is taking an age.

I I rip a sander along it but the paint is so nasty and yellowing from white
as the person previous was a heavy smoker so its been a touch jobgetting
that smell out and with fresh paint it all helps.

My wifes ooo wife says she wants it totally stripped off as it was
"disgusting" and sanded and then prepped and painted fresh bah.

When I first started I thought hmm that will sand nicely and just repaint..

I like the idea of replacing it, but I'm half way through. Although the
electric bbill should be nice and high lol.


Dont bother, if its stuck on it doesnt need to come off. Clean it with
sugar soap and very hot water, & gloves to avoid burning.


NT

On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:56:49 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..

Propbly worth just gritting the teeth and carrying on the loborious task
...still not as bad as removing tiles lol

Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Happy days. (

In article ,
writes:
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:56:49 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ... normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..

Propbly worth just gritting the teeth and carrying on the loborious task
...still not as bad as removing tiles lol

Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

I've never liked paint stripping. If the skirtings are beyond simply
repainting and not of some particular historic value, I'd simply rip
them off and fit new ones. Anyway, I though paint stripper was going
the same way as the nice smelling paints;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel
wibbled on Wednesday 24 March 2010 10:03

In article ,
writes:
Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

The "old" stuff is generally available, but not from sheds. I went out of my
way to get some oil based coloured satin varnish (after walking round B&Q,
Homebase etc). A paint trade counter is one option, eg Brewers.

I got mine from Chumleigh Hardware on t'Internet:

www.hardware-ironmongers.com

Not sure about gloss, but they carry a good selection of the Rustins poly
varnishes (hint, if it says Quick Dry it's low VOC, so look for the other
stuff). Bloody awful website (suggest using google with a site: operator)
but the actual service is good and the tins came securely taped to avoid
accidents.

squidward mode on

Round my way, the good shops are miles away and the local (within 10 miles)
shops are so damn useless I've pretty much gone over to buying everything on
the internet from food to wellies. Hell, Boots, who've bought out all the
local pharmacies round here can't (won't) be bothered to even get me a tub
of citric acid and a tub of sodium metabisulphite[1]. "Not cost effective"
he said, as him and his assistants were standing around doing absolutely
bugger all else.

[1] Homebrew steralising agent, showing the kids how to make real ginger
beer (including the alcoholic version for me

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

In article ,
Tim Watts writes:
Andrew Gabriel
wibbled on Wednesday 24 March 2010 10:03

In article ,
writes:
Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

The "old" stuff is generally available, but not from sheds. I went out of my
way to get some oil based coloured satin varnish (after walking round B&Q,
Homebase etc). A paint trade counter is one option, eg Brewers.

Actually, that's where I got mine.
The old stuff is only around until stocks are gone.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 24 Mar, 00:10, wrote:

Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us.

Undercoat of cheap shellac makes for an easy disrobing layer

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Andrew Gabriel
wibbled on Wednesday 24 March 2010 10:03

In article ,
writes:
Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

The "old" stuff is generally available, but not from sheds. I went out of
my
way to get some oil based coloured satin varnish (after walking round B&Q,
Homebase etc). A paint trade counter is one option, eg Brewers.

I got mine from Chumleigh Hardware on t'Internet:

www.hardware-ironmongers.com

Not sure about gloss, but they carry a good selection of the Rustins poly
varnishes (hint, if it says Quick Dry it's low VOC, so look for the other
stuff). Bloody awful website (suggest using google with a site: operator)
but the actual service is good and the tins came securely taped to avoid
accidents.

squidward mode on

Round my way, the good shops are miles away and the local (within 10
miles)
shops are so damn useless I've pretty much gone over to buying everything
on
the internet from food to wellies. Hell, Boots, who've bought out all the
local pharmacies round here can't (won't) be bothered to even get me a tub
of citric acid and a tub of sodium metabisulphite[1]. "Not cost effective"
he said, as him and his assistants were standing around doing absolutely
bugger all else.

[1] Homebrew steralising agent, showing the kids how to make real ginger
beer (including the alcoholic version for me

--
If you have any Asian suppliers within reach, they usually have citric acid
by the kilo as for them it is a regular cooking ingredient. I use it as a
general purpose household chemical - along with soda carb; epsom salts - can
be had by the kilo as 'bath salts' in some (usually Asian: Asians seem to
be still in the do it yourself household ingredients and chemicals age we
used to be in in the 1950s)) chemists; 'dishwasher salt etc - and cleaning
spray (20% with a dash of wash up liquid - is excellent for taps, baths
etc.). Can't help with metabi - but as I used to be a lab tech, my 500g jar
will last a lifetime at the rate of a few grains to each bottle I wash.

S

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
writes:
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:56:49 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ...
normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age
to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..

Propbly worth just gritting the teeth and carrying on the loborious task

...still not as bad as removing tiles lol

Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.

Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

I've never liked paint stripping. If the skirtings are beyond simply
repainting and not of some particular historic value, I'd simply rip
them off and fit new ones. Anyway, I though paint stripper was going
the same way as the nice smelling paints;-)

--
I found that water-based primer totally ruined all the preparatory sanding I
had done on front window repairs. It raised the grain AND never really
dried, so that it could not be sanded smooth. I had to scrape the whole lot
off and resand the wood. The solution I came up with was to use diamond
hard varnish as the primer. This actually goes much further, lies flatter
AND is hard enough not to rip off when the nibs are sanded. Another tip,
for a smooth finish is to avoid 'one coat' and 'non drip' paint like the
plague - and even then, you may still need to thin on a warm day - if you
don't want horrendous brush marks. Careful attention to thinning and
sanding - and not using water anywhere near bare wood - and you can get a
mirror finish even with ordinary paints.

S

spamlet wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
writes:
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:56:49 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:28:53 -0000, "Matthew.Ridges"
wrote:

I having a go at decorating the spare room. The room was a storage room
since we moved in. All been emptied and ready to fix up. Basically the
skirting board is painting in something other than gloss ...
normally I
heat it bubbles and flies off! buuut the stuff on it is taking an age
to
heat off and scrap.

Any ideas on how to get this paint off quick as I have 2 doorways to do
aswell

Heat is meant to work with oil based paint. You have probably got
water based which is little better than emulsion paint. A chemical
stripper would probably be better, but not much..
Propbly worth just gritting the teeth and carrying on the loborious task

...still not as bad as removing tiles lol

Something we are all going to be very used to with this lovely new
regulation paint being foisted on us. Like another poster said, easier
to rip out and replace if you can.
Bought some black gloss and undercoat on Monday to do the facias with.
Had the bloke search the shelf for a couple of tins not marked with
the 2010 low volatiles symbol.

I've never liked paint stripping. If the skirtings are beyond simply
repainting and not of some particular historic value, I'd simply rip
them off and fit new ones. Anyway, I though paint stripper was going
the same way as the nice smelling paints;-)

--
I found that water-based primer totally ruined all the preparatory sanding I
had done on front window repairs. It raised the grain AND never really
dried, so that it could not be sanded smooth. I had to scrape the whole lot
off and resand the wood. The solution I came up with was to use diamond
hard varnish as the primer. This actually goes much further, lies flatter
AND is hard enough not to rip off when the nibs are sanded. Another tip,
for a smooth finish is to avoid 'one coat' and 'non drip' paint like the
plague - and even then, you may still need to thin on a warm day - if you
don't want horrendous brush marks. Careful attention to thinning and
sanding - and not using water anywhere near bare wood - and you can get a
mirror finish even with ordinary paints.

S


Grain raising is usually blamed on water based stuff but it can happen
with any finish if the wood isn't sound, or isn't bone dry when sanded.
Sanding then tends to flatten the fibres but not cut them.

In article ,
"spamlet" writes:
I found that water-based primer totally ruined all the preparatory sanding I
had done on front window repairs. It raised the grain AND never really
dried, so that it could not be sanded smooth. I had to scrape the whole lot
off and resand the wood. The solution I came up with was to use diamond
hard varnish as the primer. This actually goes much further, lies flatter
AND is hard enough not to rip off when the nibs are sanded. Another tip,
for a smooth finish is to avoid 'one coat' and 'non drip' paint like the
plague - and even then, you may still need to thin on a warm day - if you
don't want horrendous brush marks. Careful attention to thinning and
sanding - and not using water anywhere near bare wood - and you can get a
mirror finish even with ordinary paints.

That's a level of perfection well beyond where I'm going with black
facias, 20' up in the air and mostly hidden behind the gutters...
They're getting treated for good longevity, but I'm not looking for
the finish of a Steinway concert grand...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

wrote:
On 24 Mar,
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

That's a level of perfection well beyond where I'm going with black
facias, 20' up in the air and mostly hidden behind the gutters...
They're getting treated for good longevity, but I'm not looking for
the finish of a Steinway concert grand...

Painting them black isn't the best for longevity, greater
expansion / contraction with sunlight. I gave up on dark colours for my front
door for that reason.


IME longevity isn't an issue up there behind the guttering. Probably the
least exposure of any exterior woodwork

In article ,
stuart noble writes:
wrote:
On 24 Mar,
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

That's a level of perfection well beyond where I'm going with black
facias, 20' up in the air and mostly hidden behind the gutters...
They're getting treated for good longevity, but I'm not looking for
the finish of a Steinway concert grand...

You obviously made me feel guilty. Was going to do the top coat this
morning, but instead, scraped the pimples off, and did another
undercoat...

Painting them black isn't the best for longevity, greater
expansion / contraction with sunlight. I gave up on dark colours for my front
door for that reason.

IME longevity isn't an issue up there behind the guttering. Probably the
least exposure of any exterior woodwork

I think the ones I'm ripping off are 100 years old. They're exactly
the same timbers as the floorboards. Slight wet rot along top edge
where felt has rotted off and tiles now rest, and in some places
where the gutter leaked and and the paint was all gone.

New ones being prepared and painted indoors (where it's not raining
at the moment), prior to fitting.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

wrote in message ...
On 24 Mar,
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

That's a level of perfection well beyond where I'm going with black
facias, 20' up in the air and mostly hidden behind the gutters...
They're getting treated for good longevity, but I'm not looking for
the finish of a Steinway concert grand...

Painting them black isn't the best for longevity, greater
expansion / contraction with sunlight. I gave up on dark colours for my
front
door for that reason.

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

Yes, good paint that stays stuck is difficult.
I find if the wood underneath has started to go grey, nothing sticks for
long.
Also, if you have had to 'make good' any rotten bits with new wood, make
sure the join is out of sight, paint just will not handle the slightest
differential expansion, and I did the same window sill 3 times before just
opting for some mastic in the inevitable crack!

S