I need to fit some corner trim on a large cladding project just completed.
Roughly a 100 x 50 section.
To which I want to take the arris off the leading corner.

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a rounding
bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe a bearing
guided bit)

Have router and bits .... Q is how to do this ............ running router
along wood with a fence is, on past experience not going to give me an even
cut, always wanders off slightly at some point.

Neighbor (part maniac) ... said just jam the router upside down in a
workmate and feed wood in against the bit ... easy.


Anybody done anything similar, just looking for some tips or hints ... don't
have much spare so can't afford to learn as I go.,

Wood is Thermowood (heat treated pine)

Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.

Rick Hughes wrote:

Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.


....or, as when I had to fab some fence caps that I couldn't find a match
for (damned cats, and their claws!)...

Piece of 18mm ply (random offcut from the shed), cut a ?..30mm? hole
through which the router collet would sit, then fix the router base
plate to the ply (4 screws, if I recall correctly, on my Makita), then
set the depth of plunge, lock it, invert it, bit of 4x2 running the
length on the underside allowed it to be locked into two workmates.

t'other side, nice flat ply to fit any form you like (eg. some 2x2
batterns screwed in as a guide)

I used that arrangement to run off several 3 metre lengths of capping
without any drama.

"Mike Dodd" wrote in message
...


Mike ... if I have followed your guide (pun intended) ... it would be
something like :
http://tinyurl.com/ylzvo4q

if so .. that is my job for tomorrow :-)
I have some 20mm MDF sheet I could use.

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...
I need to fit some corner trim on a large cladding project just completed.
Roughly a 100 x 50 section.
To which I want to take the arris off the leading corner.

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a
rounding bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe a
bearing guided bit)

Have router and bits .... Q is how to do this ............ running router
along wood with a fence is, on past experience not going to give me an
even cut, always wanders off slightly at some point.

Neighbor (part maniac) ... said just jam the router upside down in a
workmate and feed wood in against the bit ... easy.


Anybody done anything similar, just looking for some tips or hints ...
don't have much spare so can't afford to learn as I go.,

Wood is Thermowood (heat treated pine)

Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.
If this merely taking the arris off, would a hand plane not do the job quite
adequately?

"Nick" wrote in message
...


If this merely taking the arris off, would a hand plane not do the job
quite adequately?


I just want to put a neat 'shape' on the leading corner ... would be
difficult to keep the angle consistent along the 2m length with a hand plane
(or at least thought it would be)

On 5 Mar, 18:59, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a rounding
bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe a bearing
guided bit)

My favoured way would be a lightweight router (the Bosch palm router
for 125 at Axminster is really nice and the tilting base is
surprisingly useful) and taking it to the work.

Otherwise make up a table and clamp it to the Workmate. You need a
thin board in the middle as a mount, then an L-section MDF fence that
swings (easier than sliding) for depth adjust. Even easier is a ten-
quid Happy Shopper Workmutt and throw the old top right away and
dedicate the legs to being a router table. Takes you an afternoon to
make and well worth it.

Don't buy a 50 quid table, they're too small.

On 5 Mar, 20:06, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 5 Mar, 18:59, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a rounding
bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe a bearing
guided bit)

My favoured way would be a lightweight router (the Bosch palm router
for 125 at Axminster is really nice and the tilting base is
surprisingly useful) and taking it to the work.

Otherwise make up a table and clamp it to the Workmate. You need a
thin board in the middle as a mount, then an L-section MDF fence that
swings (easier than sliding) for depth adjust. Even easier is a ten-
quid Happy Shopper Workmutt and throw the old top right away and
dedicate the legs to being a router table. Takes you an afternoon to
make and well worth it.

now that is a good idea.....

Cheers
JimK

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 Mar, 18:59, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a
rounding
bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe a bearing
guided bit)

My favoured way would be a lightweight router (the Bosch palm router
for 125 at Axminster is really nice and the tilting base is
surprisingly useful) and taking it to the work.

Otherwise make up a table and clamp it to the Workmate. You need a
thin board in the middle as a mount, then an L-section MDF fence that
swings (easier than sliding) for depth adjust. Even easier is a ten-
quid Happy Shopper Workmutt and throw the old top right away and
dedicate the legs to being a router table. Takes you an afternoon to
make and well worth it.

Don't buy a 50 quid table, they're too small.


can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings (easier
than sliding) for depth adjust."

not sure what you are describing.


I already have a few different tops I use on my workmate ... so another is
not a problem.

On 5 Mar, 21:32, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings (easier
than sliding) for depth adjust."

http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/works.../router_table/

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 Mar, 21:32, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings
(easier
than sliding) for depth adjust."

http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/works.../router_table/


given me some ideas there .. Thnx

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 Mar, 21:32, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings
(easier
than sliding) for depth adjust."

http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/works.../router_table/


Is MDF on its own a good enough finish ? ........... after searching, most
of projects on line face the MDF with laminate to give a "protective smooth
surface" ........ do you think it's necessary ?

Rick Hughes wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 Mar, 21:32, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings
(easier
than sliding) for depth adjust."

http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/works.../router_table/


Is MDF on its own a good enough finish ? ........... after searching,
most of projects on line face the MDF with laminate to give a
"protective smooth surface" ........ do you think it's necessary ?

Certainly not on a 'one use' table. My first tables were all made from MDF
and it seemed fine.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 7 Mar, 17:12, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Is MDF on its own a good enough finish ?

Depends on what state it's in. If it's fresh, it's fine. If it's old
and damp it raises the fibres and gets a bit rough to slide easily.

I always wax my MDF jigs, but not much more than that.

Rick Hughes wrote:
I need to fit some corner trim on a large cladding project just
completed. Roughly a 100 x 50 section.
To which I want to take the arris off the leading corner.

Each length is aprox 2m long ......... and my 'intent' is to use a
rounding bit (or similar) in a router to round off one corner. (maybe
a bearing guided bit)

Have router and bits .... Q is how to do this ............ running
router along wood with a fence is, on past experience not going to
give me an even cut, always wanders off slightly at some point.

Neighbor (part maniac) ... said just jam the router upside down in a
workmate and feed wood in against the bit ... easy.

Part maniac? Complete maniac IMO.

Anybody done anything similar, just looking for some tips or hints
... don't have much spare so can't afford to learn as I go.,

Wood is Thermowood (heat treated pine)

Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.

You can make a 'safer' router table from scrap for a job like that. Bit of
12mm ply or MDF, timber for frame, holesaw to cut hole for router bit,
bolt/screw router underneath. Fence only needs to be a piece of softwood
pivoting on a screw at one end.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
om...

You can make a 'safer' router table from scrap for a job like that. Bit
of 12mm ply or MDF, timber for frame, holesaw to cut hole for router bit,
bolt/screw router underneath. Fence only needs to be a piece of softwood
pivoting on a screw at one end.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Fence only needs to be a piece of softwood pivoting on a screw at one end.

not following this bit, if fixed at one end wouldn't the fence then be at
angle rather that straight ? ......... or am I missing a concept here ?

On 5 Mar, 21:35, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Fence only needs to be a piece of softwood pivoting on a screw at one end.

not following this bit, if fixed at one end wouldn't the fence then be at
angle rather that straight ? ......... *or am I missing a concept here ?

The cutter is round....

Rick Hughes wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message om...

You can make a 'safer' router table from scrap for a job like that. Bit
of 12mm ply or MDF, timber for frame, holesaw to cut hole for
router bit, bolt/screw router underneath. Fence only needs to be a
piece of softwood pivoting on a screw at one end.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Fence only needs to be a piece of softwood pivoting on a screw at
one end.

not following this bit, if fixed at one end wouldn't the fence then
be at angle rather that straight ? ......... or am I missing a
concept here ?

With a circular saw the fence has to be exactly parrallel to the blade -
because the blade has a 'flat' side. With a router cutter, there isn't
anything for the fence to be parrallel to - because the cutter is circular.

So, if you mark a line & cut a hole for the cutter, the fence just has to
pivot on this line at one end. Because the cutter is circular all is well.

Hard to explain.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Rick Hughes wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message om...


With a circular saw the fence has to be exactly parrallel to the blade -
because the blade has a 'flat' side. With a router cutter, there isn't
anything for the fence to be parrallel to - because the cutter is
circular.

So, if you mark a line & cut a hole for the cutter, the fence just has to
pivot on this line at one end. Because the cutter is circular all is
well.

Hard to explain.

Think I follow it now .... does make you wonder why all the commercial
router tables go to bother of parallel fences ?

On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:59:14 -0000
"Rick Hughes" wrote:

I need to fit some corner trim on a large cladding project just completed.
Roughly a 100 x 50 section.
To which I want to take the arris off the leading corner.
snip
Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.


I struggled with make-shift router tables - usually old worktop with a
n'ole in it - for years. Finally I built a proper router table. I now
find it almost impossible to undertake any wood project without using
it for something. It doubles as a storage cabinet for my power tools,
bits and things.

That being said, make yourself a make-shift table.

R.

"TheOldFellow" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:59:14 -0000
"Rick Hughes" wrote:

I need to fit some corner trim on a large cladding project just
completed.
Roughly a 100 x 50 section.
To which I want to take the arris off the leading corner.
snip
Please no suggestions about buying a Router table - not worth it for 6
lengths of wood.


I struggled with make-shift router tables - usually old worktop with a
n'ole in it - for years. Finally I built a proper router table. I now
find it almost impossible to undertake any wood project without using
it for something. It doubles as a storage cabinet for my power tools,
bits and things.

That being said, make yourself a make-shift table.



car to put up some details or pictures .... we could end up with a composite
'best in class' d-i-y table here

On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 11:13:06 -0000
"Rick Hughes" wrote:


"TheOldFellow" wrote in message
. ..

I struggled with make-shift router tables - usually old worktop with a
n'ole in it - for years. Finally I built a proper router table. I now
find it almost impossible to undertake any wood project without using
it for something. It doubles as a storage cabinet for my power tools,
bits and things.

That being said, make yourself a make-shift table.



car to put up some details or pictures .... we could end up with a composite
'best in class' d-i-y table here

I made one just like this (but didn't buy the plans!)

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301

R.

"TheOldFellow" wrote in message
. ..

I made one just like this (but didn't buy the plans!)

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301

If I made something that looked like that ... I Wouldn't leave it in garage
!

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

"TheOldFellow" wrote in message
. ..

I made one just like this (but didn't buy the plans!)

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301

If I made something that looked like that ... I Wouldn't leave it in
garage !
wouldn't it be nice if you could get these in UK:
http://www.routertabledepot.com/largebuildkit.html