I've got the £400 scrappage allowance, and a plumber has given me a
quote for a fit/relocate combi boiler from an upstairs bedroom to the
dining room directly below - £1800 including an £800 boiler, which seems OK.

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He
intends to exit to an external wall, pics he

http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot. Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point? I think he was saying that's
not allowed, not sure.

Thanks, Rob

In article ,
Rob wrote:
Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He
intends to exit to an external wall, pics he

http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot.

Drilling a hole for a normal flue ain't going to compromise the strength
of a normal house wall.

--
*This message has been ROT-13 encrypted twice for extra security *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13 Feb, 11:08, Rob wrote:
I've got the £400 scrappage allowance, and a plumber has given me a
quote for a fit/relocate combi boiler from an upstairs bedroom to the
dining room directly below - £1800 including an £800 boiler, which seems OK.

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He
intends to exit to an external wall, pics he

http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot. Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point? I think he was saying that's
not allowed, not sure.

Thanks, Rob

Probably OK if the guy uses a diamond core drill of the correct
diameter and doesn't try to just knock it through with a chisel or
electric hammer. The balanced flues on quite a lot of boilers are
only designed for internal installation and only the terminal can be
placed outside, so might preclude running the thing round outside.

Cheers,
Hugh

On 13/02/10 12:08, Hugh wrote:


Probably OK if the guy uses a diamond core drill of the correct
diameter and doesn't try to just knock it through with a chisel or
electric hammer. The balanced flues on quite a lot of boilers are
only designed for internal installation and only the terminal can be
placed outside, so might preclude running the thing round outside.

Which may be an answer to something I've been considering. I want a new
boiler but the ideal location isn't on an outside wall, although it is
adjacent to a chimney flue. Is it possible to vent a boiler into a flue
like this, or must it be external?


--
Bernard Peek

On 13/02/2010 11:08 Rob wrote:

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot.

Looks like it's right underneath where the lintel rests.

--
F

On 13 Feb, 13:40, F news@nowhere wrote:
On 13/02/2010 11:08 Rob wrote:

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot.

Looks like it's right underneath where the lintel rests.

--
F

Following up on my earlier comment, I agree it would be with checking
the position and length of a structural support. Could the hole be
made a bit higher so it would clear any possible lintel? Outer leaf
is obviously a brick arch, inside timber?

As someone else commented, the flue outlet could be too close to an
opening window or door, however you could probably overcome that with
a plume management tube.

Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point?

I'd be concerned about any reduction in masonry at that location too.

If you changed to an open flue/room-vented boiler, you may be able to
take a more circuitous route, though ISTR there's still a very low
distance limit on horizontal sections of flue - possibly from both
manufacturers spec and building regs.

If that's feasible, you could incorporate the necessary permanent room
ventilation into a door panel, if there's no suitable spot in the
masonry.

On Feb 13, 1:35*pm, Bernard Peek wrote:
On 13/02/10 12:08, Hugh wrote:



Probably OK if the guy uses a diamond core drill of the correct
diameter and doesn't try to just knock it through with a chisel or
electric hammer. *The balanced flues on quite a lot of boilers are
only designed for internal installation and only the terminal can be
placed outside, so might preclude running the thing round outside.

Which may be an answer to something I've been considering. I want a new
boiler but the ideal location isn't on an outside wall, although it is
adjacent to a chimney flue. Is it possible to vent a boiler into a flue
like this, or must it be external?

Modern condensing boilers can't function with a flue FWIU

Cicero
wibbled on Saturday 13 February 2010 13:01


That appears to be directly under the lintel which might be seriously
weakened by such a hole. It also appears to be too close to the top light
if that's an opener.

I would suggest that you get a second opinion from a local BCO for
possible weakening of the lintel and ask to see the boiler installation
manual for proximity of the flue to any openings.

Cic.


I agree - that lintel will probably have a 6" +/- overhang.

Also, I'm not entirely convinced the terminal would be far enough away from
the opening door - best check the building regs or the boiler installer's
manual (which usually reprints the diagrams from the BR).

Other options: up through the ceiling and out above the lintel and an
extension tube to take it clear of the openings?


--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On 13/02/2010 13:59, wrote:
Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point?

I'd be concerned about any reduction in masonry at that location too.

If you changed to an open flue/room-vented boiler, you may be able to
take a more circuitous route, though ISTR there's still a very low
distance limit on horizontal sections of flue - possibly from both
manufacturers spec and building regs.

If that's feasible, you could incorporate the necessary permanent room
ventilation into a door panel, if there's no suitable spot in the
masonry.

Many thanks (and everyone) - I've emailed the plumber and asked if he
can have a rethink.

Rob

[Default] On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:01:53 GMT, a certain chimpanzee,
Cicero , randomly hit the keyboard and
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 11:08:41 +0000, Rob wrote:

I've got the £400 scrappage allowance, and a plumber has given me a quote
for a fit/relocate combi boiler from an upstairs bedroom to the dining
room directly below - £1800 including an £800 boiler, which seems OK.

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He
intends to exit to an external wall, pics he

http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler

Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot. Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point? I think he was saying that's
not allowed, not sure.

That appears to be directly under the lintel which might be seriously
weakened by such a hole. It also appears to be too close to the top light
if that's an opener.

I would suggest that you get a second opinion from a local BCO for
possible weakening of the lintel and ask to see the boiler installation
manual for proximity of the flue to any openings.

As a butressing wall, there can be an opening of up to 0.1m^2 in any
position. As a load bearing 'column', provided that the hole is
sufficiently below the lintels' bearing to allow the load to spread
out, then it should be OK.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Hugo Nebula
abuse@localhost wrote:

As a butressing wall, there can be an opening of up to 0.1m^2 in any
position. As a load bearing 'column', provided that the hole is
sufficiently below the lintels' bearing to allow the load to spread
out, then it should be OK.


That's a square foot in real money. That's a hell of a big hole to have
under the end of a lintel!
--
Cheers,
Roger
_______
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[Default] On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:58:41 -0000, a certain chimpanzee,
"Roger Mills" , randomly hit the keyboard
and wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Hugo Nebula
abuse@localhost wrote:

As a butressing wall, there can be an opening of up to 0.1m^2 in any
position. As a load bearing 'column', provided that the hole is
sufficiently below the lintels' bearing to allow the load to spread
out, then it should be OK.

That's a square foot in real money. That's a hell of a big hole to have
under the end of a lintel!

The 0.1m^2 (1 square foot) is for buttressing. The lintel would still
need support under.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?

John Rumm wrote in
news
wrote:

If you changed to an open flue/room-vented boiler, you may be able to

I would be very surprised if you could even buy such a thing these days.


Not difficult to find such boilers.

Some Remeha boiler models can be configured to open flue operation when
conditions for room sealed not practical .

There are other makes available I believe.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 14/02/2010 12:38, Rob wrote:
On 13/02/2010 13:59, wrote:
Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and
then wrap round to the planned exit point?

I'd be concerned about any reduction in masonry at that location too.

If you changed to an open flue/room-vented boiler, you may be able to
take a more circuitous route, though ISTR there's still a very low
distance limit on horizontal sections of flue - possibly from both
manufacturers spec and building regs.

If that's feasible, you could incorporate the necessary permanent room
ventilation into a door panel, if there's no suitable spot in the
masonry.

Many thanks (and everyone) - I've emailed the plumber and asked if he
can have a rethink.

Rob

He/we have had a rethink, and it'll go out to the gennel, round the
corner, and exit roughly at the original point with a plume kit.

I'm happier with that. The lintels at these points are a bit
unpredictable. I've never seen one, but a colleague tells me that it's
not uncommon for wood to be used. While they can/do last, if they've
been uncovered/compromised problems can arise. And while I wouldn't have
thought any problems would arise at the 9" solid wall to the left, I
couldn't get my head round the spread of forces to the right.

On Feb 13, 12:07*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *Rob wrote:

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He
intends to exit to an external wall, pics he
http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler
Does that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's
holding up a lot.

Drilling a hole for a normal flue ain't going to compromise the strength
of a normal house wall.

Did you look at the pictures?

MBQ

In article
,
Man at B&Q wrote:
On Feb 13, 12:07 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
Rob wrote:

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue.
He intends to exit to an external wall, pics he
http://sites.google.com/site/patchoulian/home/boiler Does that look
OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's holding up a
lot.

Drilling a hole for a normal flue ain't going to compromise the
strength of a normal house wall.

Did you look at the pictures?

Yes.

--
*You! Off my planet!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.