I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing and
a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall, but I have now
damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile there is have
nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all over,
ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.

Stephen wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing and
a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall, but I have now
damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile there is have
nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

No.


or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?


better.

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all over,
ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand


get girlfriend/boyfriend to suck it?


Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.


precession is going backwards.

rip the lot down, and if you have some, pva the crumbling mess heavily
to stabilize it. Then roughly fill any major holes with any old
plaster/car body filler/tile cement you have handy.

Then tile using straight edge to make sure everything is square.

Stephen wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing and
a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall, but I have now
damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile there is have
nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all over,
ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.



I'd carry on regardless of the damage, plaster the area flat tomorrow,
and with any luck it'll be dry enough to tile on Monday. It really only
has to be flattish. The easiest plaster for a novice is the pre-mixed
lightweight stuff in a bucket from Wickes etc.
If your tiles are set in cement (as was the fashion circa 1930) they are
a bitch to get off. If they were fixed with tile adhesive, you shouldn't
be having that much trouble, but a thin edge such as a 4" paint scraper
can sometimes work better than a bolster IME.

On 14 Jan, 14:53, "Stephen" wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing

Use a thinner chisel, so you're hitting things "flatter". You can also
get right-angled ones, which are easier to work with (great for floot
tiles) Aim to slip a wedge under the back of the tile, not to chisel
into the plaster, or to "chisel them off". A strong (bolstered
through) paint scraper can be good, although it's going to hurt it as
a scraper.

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

Yes, it's easy enough. Plastering is easy enough in patches (getting
big walls flat is where it gets hard). Also plastering well enough to
take tiles is a much lower goal than a really good finish.

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Loads of time yet.

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.

A projection laser level (self-levelling, sits on a tripod, projects a
vertical / horizontal cross beam, 40-50 from cheap shops) They make
tiling so much quicker and easier.

A Plasplugs wet tile saw (made of black plastic. The cheap metal
things break)

Moulded plastic tile spacers, not faffing about with four times as
many matchsticks.

Dry tile adhesive is cheaper than wet and easy to mix, but wet's fine.
OTOH, combination "fix and grout" has the consistency of trifle and is
no bloody use at all.

A proper rubber tiler's sponge (Axminster, couple of quid) wipes grout
far better than a cloth or the usual polyurethane foam sponge.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Stephen wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom
just the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking
thing and a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall,
but I have now damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile
there is have nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

No.

Phew!


or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?


better.

Got it

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all
over, ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand


get girlfriend/boyfriend to suck it?

Wife, has kissed my bubu better.

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.
precession is going backwards.

Mean't proceed, what happens when you whack your fingers with a hammer lol
your keyboard skills take the brunt lol.

rip the lot down, and if you have some, pva the crumbling mess heavily to
stabilize it. Then roughly fill any major holes with any old plaster/car
body filler/tile cement you have handy.

Then tile using straight edge to make sure everything is square.

Interesting I'll get some pva, and then fill that in it and then plaster it
? and rub it down ready for tiling.

Like it been super glued X 1000 on but after removing a few I saw just
normal dorwnish tile adhesive.

I think I have gone wrong with the bolster and need something thinner like a
scrapper. Not sure that will like to be hit though.

Thanks fella great advice.

If the bathroom is not cold in winter...
- Just repair any ripped out plaster with bonding plaster
- Thistle 12.5kg is about £5-6, buy a float for £12

If the bathroom is cold in winter...
- Use the opportunity to insulate the wall with Marmox (cement on
front & rear, interspersed by varying thicknesses of waterproof
extruded polystyrene insulation).
- Marmox gives you a perfectly flat surface without needing a plaster,
improves comfort as only the bathroom air need be heated
- Marmox can be skimmed with plaster or tiled or used for showers (do
not use plywood)

The downside is that Marmox is however not cheap,
6-10-12.5-20-30-40-50mm are £10-20 for 1250x600mm sheets, however most
bathrooms are not enormous and the saving on a plasterer is
considerable. It's just a bigger version of tiles, cut and snap with a
knife, easy.

Worthwhile if you have a cold bathroom with two outside walls, not
worthwhile if you have a recent house stuffed with insulation
(although people do like marmox anyway re faster & cheaper than a
plasterer).

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news
Stephen wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom
just the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking
thing and a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall,
but I have now damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile
there is have nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all
over, ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.

I'd carry on regardless of the damage, plaster the area flat tomorrow, and
with any luck it'll be dry enough to tile on Monday. It really only has to
be flattish. The easiest plaster for a novice is the pre-mixed lightweight
stuff in a bucket from Wickes etc.
If your tiles are set in cement (as was the fashion circa 1930) they are a
bitch to get off. If they were fixed with tile adhesive, you shouldn't be
having that much trouble, but a thin edge such as a 4" paint scraper can
sometimes work better than a bolster IME.

Thats what I was thinking stuart, a paint scrapper as it seems the bolster
is just digging the crap out of the wall.

....goes on the hunt for a scrapper.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 14 Jan, 14:53, "Stephen" wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom
just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing

Use a thinner chisel, so you're hitting things "flatter". You can also
get right-angled ones, which are easier to work with (great for floot
tiles) Aim to slip a wedge under the back of the tile, not to chisel
into the plaster, or to "chisel them off". A strong (bolstered
through) paint scraper can be good, although it's going to hurt it as
a scraper.

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

Yes, it's easy enough. Plastering is easy enough in patches (getting
big walls flat is where it gets hard). Also plastering well enough to
take tiles is a much lower goal than a really good finish.

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Loads of time yet.

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.

A projection laser level (self-levelling, sits on a tripod, projects a
vertical / horizontal cross beam, 40-50 from cheap shops) They make
tiling so much quicker and easier.

A Plasplugs wet tile saw (made of black plastic. The cheap metal
things break)

Moulded plastic tile spacers, not faffing about with four times as
many matchsticks.

Dry tile adhesive is cheaper than wet and easy to mix, but wet's fine.
OTOH, combination "fix and grout" has the consistency of trifle and is
no bloody use at all.

A proper rubber tiler's sponge (Axminster, couple of quid) wipes grout
far better than a cloth or the usual polyurethane foam sponge.


Massively helpful post Andy.

I'll get all I need ready for tommorow as I have to stop now but I'll
hopefully get them all off tommorow, rub it all down a bit and plaster any
damaged bits and it will have the rest of friday and weekend to set.

Tommorows target remove tiles and plaster lol

On Jan 14, 2:53*pm, "Stephen" wrote:
I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all over,
ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

SDS with a 4" tile removal chisel avoids this.


But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

If you just need to repair plaster it only takes a few minutes.


Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Ice and get a bolster with a plastic guard (they don't do much, but
better than nothing).

On Jan 14, 2:53*pm, "Stephen" wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom just
the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking thing and
a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall, but I have now
damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile there is have
nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all over,
ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.


Very fast way to clear tiles off is an sds drill with a chisel in it.

Just patch any missing lumps with plaster if the wall's plastered, or
you could use cement/sand. For minor dints, ignore them.

If you've got extra time & cash and its an old non-cavity wall I'd
consider adding insulation. Payback is hardly worthwhile, but it makes
the room more comfortable.


NT

NT
wibbled on Thursday 14 January 2010 16:49



Very fast way to clear tiles off is an sds drill with a chisel in it.

Seconded.

Just patch any missing lumps with plaster if the wall's plastered, or
you could use cement/sand. For minor dints, ignore them.

Also seconded. What matters is having a stable mostly flat surface (though
tile adhesive is forgiving, it's just a little easier to start flat than to
have to make *many* corrections whilst laying tiles).

As to finish - rough is good with tiles. It's an ideal way to practise patch
plastering because it really doesn't matter what it looks like as long as
it's firmly stuck (use of PVA as seems to be the norm with plastering these
days is recommended).

If you've got extra time & cash and its an old non-cavity wall I'd
consider adding insulation. Payback is hardly worthwhile, but it makes
the room more comfortable.

Marmox. Ideal to tile directly on to, waterproof and can be bonded or
screwed to the wall (whichever holds better for the state of the wall and
with due regard to the weight of the tiles being added).

--
Tim Watts

Icicles - nature's way of pinpointing all the leaks in your guttering...

Stephen wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news
Stephen wrote:
I'm trying miserably to remove old tiles from the wall in the bathroom
just the standard 3 high rows, I'm using a 5 inch bolster type looking
thing and a hammer. I managed to remove six without damaging the wall,
but I have now damaged the plaster behind it and if I try sticking a tile
there is have nothing but a rubble backing to stick on to ?

:-s do I need to have this re-plastered now ?

or buy some pre-made plaster from B&Q and just try and fill it and rub it
down ready for tiling ?

I fear if I carry on trying to remove more tiles more damage will occur,
also whacked my bolster holding hand 6 times and has lumps on it all
over, ouch, never did have a good aim lol...

But I only have to monday to have the wall prepped for tiling.

Any advice on what to do with a sore hand

Appreciate any advice on how to preceed forward from here.
I'd carry on regardless of the damage, plaster the area flat tomorrow, and
with any luck it'll be dry enough to tile on Monday. It really only has to
be flattish. The easiest plaster for a novice is the pre-mixed lightweight
stuff in a bucket from Wickes etc.
If your tiles are set in cement (as was the fashion circa 1930) they are a
bitch to get off. If they were fixed with tile adhesive, you shouldn't be
having that much trouble, but a thin edge such as a 4" paint scraper can
sometimes work better than a bolster IME.

Thats what I was thinking stuart, a paint scrapper as it seems the bolster
is just digging the crap out of the wall.

...goes on the hunt for a scrapper.


use the breadknife your wife bought because it looked brill, but cant
actually cut bread.

I'm surprised that nobody's mentioned Aquaboard or marine ply. One advantage
is that it brings the tiles out past the rim of the bath, so you get a
better seal - especially important if you are going to fit a shower.

GB wrote:
I'm surprised that nobody's mentioned Aquaboard or marine ply. One advantage
is that it brings the tiles out past the rim of the bath, so you get a
better seal - especially important if you are going to fit a shower.

Has chasing the edge of the bath into the wall gone out of fashion?

Jim wrote:
GB wrote:
I'm surprised that nobody's mentioned Aquaboard or marine ply. One
advantage is that it brings the tiles out past the rim of the bath, so
you get a better seal - especially important if you are going to fit a
shower.

Has chasing the edge of the bath into the wall gone out of fashion?

I simply silicone the bath to the wall BEFORE tiling.