I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up the
soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

[g]

george [dicegeorge] wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up
the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

[g]

You can paint it George - but allow it to 'weather' for a few months before
doing so.


Cash

Cash wrote:
george [dicegeorge] wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up
the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

[g]

You can paint it George - but allow it to 'weather' for a few months before
doing so.


Cash


why?
what might go wrong?

they were stored in the rain at TravisPerkins where I bought them,
I dried them inside by the rayburn for a few days
but there may well be moisture trapped inside them
and im worrying...

[g]

george [dicegeorge] wrote:
Cash wrote:
george [dicegeorge] wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up
the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

[g]

You can paint it George - but allow it to 'weather' for a few months
before doing so.


Cash


why?
what might go wrong?

It lessens the chance of a chemical reaction with the paint and allows any
excessive tanalising to dry out - and around 6 months is considered
reasonable if I recall correctly (age has its drawbacks g).

Nothing can go wrong - other than with the paint work.

they were stored in the rain at TravisPerkins where I bought them,
I dried them inside by the rayburn for a few days
but there may well be moisture trapped inside them
and im worrying...

Don't worry George, the worst that can happen is that you have to repaint
the stuff. BTW, it's not really a good idea to force-dry timber as this can
lead to warping, twisting, cracking etc - far better to leave this stuff in
a dry garage (or similar) to air-dry naturally, or better still, outside
under a temporary covering.

Cash

On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up the
soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?


You are OK. There is no truth in the rumour.

Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up the
soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?


You are OK. There is no truth in the rumour.

is it that you shouldnt sand or plane it
so it stays rough looking?

[g]

On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 19:28:18 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding up the
soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?


You are OK. There is no truth in the rumour.

is it that you shouldnt sand or plane it
so it stays rough looking?


I can understand not sanding it or planing it if it is going to remain
unfinished. You would be removing the timber with the highest
concentration of preservative. But if it is going to be visible, and
you are going to paint it, then sanding it doesn't seem a bad idea.

george [dicegeorge] wrote:
Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding
up the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?


You are OK. There is no truth in the rumour.

is it that you shouldnt sand or plane it
so it stays rough looking?

[g]

You can work the stuff to what you want George, I regularly plane the sawn
stuff up to some sort of a finish (and joint it [1]) when using it for
garden furniture - but you will have to use the correct finish for it e.g:

You cannot successfully use paint etc for sawn timber on planed timber by
the way - it doesn't take too well.

[1] When I'm not in a 'lazy' mood, if I am in such a mood (or the work
doesn't really need it) I simply use rust-resistant fixings and hide the
exposed ones with wooden pellets.

Cash

On 13 Dec, 23:02, "Cash"
wrote:
george [dicegeorge] wrote:
Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding
up the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised wood.
Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

You are OK. *There is no truth in the rumour.

is it that you shouldnt sand or plane it
so it stays rough looking?

[g]

You can work the stuff to what you want George, I regularly plane the sawn
stuff up to some sort of a finish (and joint it [1]) when using it for
garden furniture - but you will have to use the correct finish for it e.g:

You cannot successfully *use paint etc for sawn timber on planed timber by
the way - it doesn't take too well.

[1] * *When I'm not in a 'lazy' mood, if I am in such a mood (or the work
doesn't really need it) I simply use rust-resistant fixings and hide the
exposed ones with wooden pellets.

Cash
Dear All
Not a good move to plane or work Tanalised timber for the reasons
stated by Bruce. If, as one sometimes has to, it is necessary then the
one method of protection is to dip the planed or worked surfaces in an
organic-solvent based preservative overnight particularly if any end
grain is cut off and allow it to ventilate until no more solvent comes
off ( a week min). The best method is to use a preservative paste but
those are normally B rated (A being amateur) and not legally available
to amateurs but not difficult to buy if you know how. I would use a
Water Repellent Preservative Stain to paint with = Saddolins etc

Chris

Chris George wrote:
On 13 Dec, 23:02, "Cash"
wrote:
george [dicegeorge] wrote:
Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:59:14 +0000, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote:
I've been painting (th grey primer/undercoat)
the tanalised rafters which go at the outside of the roof holding
up the soffits and slates,
but i seem to remember hearing that you can't paint tanalised
wood. Is there any truth to this rumour or am i ok?

You are OK. There is no truth in the rumour.

is it that you shouldnt sand or plane it
so it stays rough looking?

[g]

You can work the stuff to what you want George, I regularly plane
the sawn stuff up to some sort of a finish (and joint it [1]) when
using it for garden furniture - but you will have to use the correct
finish for it e.g:

You cannot successfully use paint etc for sawn timber on planed
timber by the way - it doesn't take too well.

[1] When I'm not in a 'lazy' mood, if I am in such a mood (or the
work doesn't really need it) I simply use rust-resistant fixings and
hide the exposed ones with wooden pellets.

Cash
Dear All
Not a good move to plane or work Tanalised timber for the reasons
stated by Bruce. If, as one sometimes has to, it is necessary then the
one method of protection is to dip the planed or worked surfaces in an
organic-solvent based preservative overnight particularly if any end
grain is cut off and allow it to ventilate until no more solvent comes
off ( a week min). The best method is to use a preservative paste but
those are normally B rated (A being amateur) and not legally available
to amateurs but not difficult to buy if you know how. I would use a
Water Repellent Preservative Stain to paint with = Saddolins etc

Chris

Dear Chris,

Not seen the reply by "Bruce" in this thread, nor will I if he posts via
google groups (all killfiled to ease the spam a bit).

From one who has used this stuff since the 1970's and 'planed, worked and
painted' it (my earliest project is still going strong after 30 years in a
number of different gardens) - then draw your own conclusions as to the
viability of 'working' the stuff.

There again, there is properly tanalised timber - and el-cheapo tanalised
timber, and I'll let you guess what I use - but I must admit that the last
time I 'seriously used tanalised timber was way back in 2001 for a couple of
fences (no cut ends were given any attention), which after 6 months of
weathering, was treated to 3 coats of Sadolin - and two years ago, the back
fence was again treated (purely for cosmetic reasons where some trees had
rubbed against it) - and the timber is still as good today as when it was
first installed.

Also, I used the stuff professionally on various, new-build public works
from the 70's on for soffits fascias, boarding etc, and no specific
treatments were ever undertaken on the cut ends (and they were invariably
painted to gloss) - and neither did any Clerk of Works ever query this lack
of treatment.


Cash

Who is not interested in getting into the technical arguments with
non-users.