Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

Bill
wibbled on Monday 16 November 2009 12:07

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Yes and yes.

If you have the choice, fit the skirting leaving a 1/4" gap. Even if you fit
before, the fitter (provided you tell him first) should be able to get the
vinyl under the skirting. This is the idea - then fill the gap with a
decent silicon, either clear or a colour to match the skirting. This will
give you a good seal against water getting trapped under the skirting and
staining/rotting it.

Another trick is to put down some ali angle - about 10mm x 10mm x thin
(unimportant). Back top the wall, base glue to floor with silicone. Lap
vinyl over the base section and fit skirting over the lot. eg

I=wall
- | = Ali
= = Vinyl
* = skirting

I *
I *
I|*
I|========== Vinyl
I----- Ali

That will be bombproof. It's overkill perhaps, but's what I do for the bath
panel (stops water running under the bath) but it will continue to work
even if the silicon fails. You're probably fine with a good plug of
silicone though, which I certainly wouldn't do without personally...




Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:07:35 -0800 (PST), Bill
wrote:

Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Rhinofloor

I have bought it twice. The first lot has now had twelve years hard
labour and is still looking good

The third lot of vinyl I bought was some other brand, sorry I can't
remember the name and I am not planning to lift it to find out. It
cost as much as Rhinofloor so I rashly assumed that it would be
comparable but it isnt. It has a much thinner surface which was
damaged when I slid the washing machine in to place, it stretched
after laying, it traps dirt and always looks slightly shabby. A bad
buy

Get Rhinofloor

Anna


Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

Anna Kettle wrote:
On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:07:35 -0800 (PST), Bill
wrote:

Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Rhinofloor

I have bought it twice. The first lot has now had twelve years hard
labour and is still looking good

The third lot of vinyl I bought was some other brand, sorry I can't
remember the name and I am not planning to lift it to find out. It
cost as much as Rhinofloor so I rashly assumed that it would be
comparable but it isnt. It has a much thinner surface which was
damaged when I slid the washing machine in to place, it stretched
after laying, it traps dirt and always looks slightly shabby. A bad
buy

Get Rhinofloor

Anna


IME the washing machine issue is the number one consideration with
kitchen flooring, whereas in a bathroom you can get away with something
less resilient

On 16 Nov, 12:07, Bill wrote:
Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Do you specifically want vinyl, or would lino be okay as well (they
have a similar appearance, but vinyl is petroleum-based, while lino
comes from linseed oil)? I've got Marmoleum lino in my bathroom, which
is extremely durable, and looks good. You find it in lots of high wear
places like hospitals, shops, and so on. Don't think that it's an
institutional thing though - you can get a big range of colours and
patterns to suit domestic use as well.

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

My floors were quite uneven, and fitting a skirting board first would
have been quite tricky. Easier to fit the tiles, and then adjust the
skirting to suit. As Tim mentions, do seal underneath the skirting to
avoid water getting in. The vinyl/lino is waterproof, and with a
slight slope in the wrong direction, any spilled water will disappear
under the skirting and cause you problems.

dan.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

Have you considered tile-type flooring such as Karndean (or the much more
expensive Amtico)?

I have Karndean in both of my bathrooms and have been really pleased with
it. It has now been down for about 8 years and looks as good as the day I
fitted it. Actually it would look even better if I ever strip and re-apply
the "dim glow protector" stuff. I only applied one lot of this, just after
laying the floors, and TBH it never seems to have worn off!

One bathroom has square tiles in a a diagonal checkerboard pattern which I
am very pleased with:

http://www.btinternet.com/~simon.str...orfinished.jpg

The other has the "wood plank" shaped tiles, also fitted at 45 degrees.
Sorry, haven't got any decent pictures of that one.

This type of flooring is a pleasure to fit with the modern adhesive. With
this type you apply the adhesive (with a special grooved trowel) and leave
it to dry completely. This leaves an extremely tacky surface and the tiles
drop very nicely into place. Far easier than the original "wet" adhesive
which was a right old messy pain to work with.

BTW I fitted both lots myself - having something complicated like my
checkerboard layout done by a "pro" would be reassuringly expensive!

Regards,
Simon.

"Simon Stroud" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

Have you considered tile-type flooring such as Karndean (or the much more
expensive Amtico)?

I have Karndean in both of my bathrooms and have been really pleased with
it. It has now been down for about 8 years and looks as good as the day I
fitted it. Actually it would look even better if I ever strip and re-apply
the "dim glow protector" stuff. I only applied one lot of this, just after
laying the floors, and TBH it never seems to have worn off!

One bathroom has square tiles in a a diagonal checkerboard pattern which I
am very pleased with:

http://www.btinternet.com/~simon.str...orfinished.jpg

The other has the "wood plank" shaped tiles, also fitted at 45 degrees.
Sorry, haven't got any decent pictures of that one.

This type of flooring is a pleasure to fit with the modern adhesive. With
this type you apply the adhesive (with a special grooved trowel) and leave
it to dry completely. This leaves an extremely tacky surface and the tiles
drop very nicely into place. Far easier than the original "wet" adhesive
which was a right old messy pain to work with.

BTW I fitted both lots myself - having something complicated like my
checkerboard layout done by a "pro" would be reassuringly expensive!

Regards,
Simon.


Oops! Sorry, just checked one of my old posts on the same subject and
remembered an important point ...

The Karndean range goes from a "domestic" product up to a significantly more
expensive "commercial" range. The latter have "bevelled" edges which give an
interesting texture to the floor but would probably NOT be a good idea to
fit with a border like mine. The problem is you would be cutting tiles
across the middle where they are thick. The border ones would then be thin
at the edge (because of their bevelled edges) and you'd get a horrific step
between the border and the main floor. Nasty!

I could be mistaken but I can't quite think of a way to make that work
perfectly.

Regards,
Simon.

In article , Simon Stroud
writes

This type of flooring is a pleasure to fit with the modern adhesive. With
this type you apply the adhesive (with a special grooved trowel) and leave
it to dry completely. This leaves an extremely tacky surface and the tiles
drop very nicely into place. Far easier than the original "wet" adhesive
which was a right old messy pain to work with.

BTW I fitted both lots myself - having something complicated like my
checkerboard layout done by a "pro" would be reassuringly expensive!

Any tips for the marking and cutting of the curved border work?
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Simon Stroud
writes

This type of flooring is a pleasure to fit with the modern adhesive. With
this type you apply the adhesive (with a special grooved trowel) and leave
it to dry completely. This leaves an extremely tacky surface and the tiles
drop very nicely into place. Far easier than the original "wet" adhesive
which was a right old messy pain to work with.

BTW I fitted both lots myself - having something complicated like my
checkerboard layout done by a "pro" would be reassuringly expensive!

Any tips for the marking and cutting of the curved border work?
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

Yep - take your time and cut it all and dry-fit it all before sticking
anything down!

The tiles actually cut really easily with a very sharp Stanley type blade.
You don't always have to get right through the whole thickness in one go -
as long as you get through the strongest bit (which is the top textured
surface layer) you can usually bend the tile "in half" and easily cut
through the back layer which is much more "rubbery".

I can't quite remember exactly how I marked out where I was going to cut - I
THINK it involved sticking on loads of good quality masking tape to give a
nice surface to write on, and then marking it all carefully and just cutting
freehand.

There are probably tricks and/or special tools used by the "pros" but I
didn't have too much trouble. The best thing was if I cocked it all up I
could still buy two more full lots of materials and have two more goes and
STILL work out cheaper than the quote I had for a pro to do the install.

Good luck!
Simon.

In article , Simon Stroud
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Simon
Stroud

Any tips for the marking and cutting of the curved border work?

Yep - take your time and cut it all and dry-fit it all before sticking
anything down!

The tiles actually cut really easily with a very sharp Stanley type blade.
You don't always have to get right through the whole thickness in one go -
as long as you get through the strongest bit (which is the top textured
surface layer) you can usually bend the tile "in half" and easily cut
through the back layer which is much more "rubbery".

I can't quite remember exactly how I marked out where I was going to cut - I
THINK it involved sticking on loads of good quality masking tape to give a
nice surface to write on, and then marking it all carefully and just cutting
freehand.

There are probably tricks and/or special tools used by the "pros" but I
didn't have too much trouble. The best thing was if I cocked it all up I
could still buy two more full lots of materials and have two more goes and
STILL work out cheaper than the quote I had for a pro to do the install.

Did you fit the bath & shower then cut inside curves to match them or
did you lay the tiles under the edge then lay the bath/shower on top?
The latter seems the easier option.

Good point on the tiles being easier for us non-experts to diy, think
I'll add that to the mix when choosing flooring for my kitchen.

Thanks for the tips and the materials recommendations, funnily enough,
I'm seeing Amtico cheaper (on special) at around 15quid a sqm with
Karndean at 18.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Simon Stroud
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Simon
Stroud

Any tips for the marking and cutting of the curved border work?

Yep - take your time and cut it all and dry-fit it all before sticking
anything down!

The tiles actually cut really easily with a very sharp Stanley type blade.
You don't always have to get right through the whole thickness in one go -
as long as you get through the strongest bit (which is the top textured
surface layer) you can usually bend the tile "in half" and easily cut
through the back layer which is much more "rubbery".

I can't quite remember exactly how I marked out where I was going to cut -
I
THINK it involved sticking on loads of good quality masking tape to give a
nice surface to write on, and then marking it all carefully and just
cutting
freehand.

There are probably tricks and/or special tools used by the "pros" but I
didn't have too much trouble. The best thing was if I cocked it all up I
could still buy two more full lots of materials and have two more goes and
STILL work out cheaper than the quote I had for a pro to do the install.

Did you fit the bath & shower then cut inside curves to match them or did
you lay the tiles under the edge then lay the bath/shower on top? The
latter seems the easier option.

Good point on the tiles being easier for us non-experts to diy, think I'll
add that to the mix when choosing flooring for my kitchen.

Thanks for the tips and the materials recommendations, funnily enough, I'm
seeing Amtico cheaper (on special) at around 15quid a sqm with Karndean at
18.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

For the shower (which stands on an 18mm ply base) I did cut the flooring
carefully to fit up to the edge of the tray. For the bath the side panel is
of course removable so the flooring is a random wiggly shape under there and
is hidden by the panel.

As per the Karndean instructions I fitted ply over the whole remaining floor
with many many screws, filled all the holes etc and PVAed the lot. I think
it was actually 9mm ply because Jewsons sent the wrong thickness - so the
ply base didn't actually stick up too far above the finished floor. I gloss
painted the edge of the ply base to give a nice surface to stick to and I
stuck some of that PVC self adhesive strip over the small bit of ply and the
bottom edge of the tray to cover it all up. Oh - finally a bead of sealant
around the whole floor. Looks acceptable to me.

Here it is just after fitting ...

http://www.btinternet.com/~simon.str...es/shower1.jpg

And now 8 years later it's still fine. The PVC strip is a little less white
now but it's lasted really well.

In the second bathroom, where I used the wood-plank-effect Karndean, I
didn't bother with the PVC strip - just left the painted ply edge visible.
It doesn't look too bad ...
http://www.btinternet.com/~simon.str...es/shower2.jpg

Regards,
Simon.

On 16 Nov, 12:07, Bill wrote:
Hello.

Thought I'd go for vinyl flooring in the bathroom.

It's only 6 m2 so thought I'd go for some decent quality stuff.

Can anyone recommend some makes please. I'm hoping for stuff that's
durable and won't fade.

Also, I want to replace the skirting boards. Are these normally placed
on top of the vinyl/ply or would a good fitter be able to cut the
vinyl against the board?

Thanks very much.
Kirk out.

Note sure about makes, but make sure you get non-slip vinyl if you
don't want
to do the splits when getting out of the bath.
Simon.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

Bill.