There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

--
Take it easy on the kid, SilverFox316; everybody kills Hitler on their first
trip.

GB submitted this idea :
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide,
which is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is a
soft thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and if
they are applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze the
sealant tightly onto place.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide, which
is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is a soft
thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and if they are
applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze the sealant
tightly onto place.

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.

--
Adrian C

Adrian C wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide,
which is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is
a soft thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and
if they are applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze
the sealant tightly onto place.

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.


Any idea what it's called?


--
Take it easy on the kid, SilverFox316; everybody kills Hitler on their
first trip.

GB wrote:

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.


Any idea what it's called?


It's like this, but ours was a branded make that once was available from
B&Q before B&Q did their own.

Bathroom & Kitchen Sealing Strip
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.js...378403&x=0&y=0

--
Adrian C

GB wrote:
Adrian C wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide,
which is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is
a soft thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and
if they are applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze
the sealant tightly onto place.

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.


Any idea what it's called?

Alas I'd have to say it's called utter rubbish. Sorry to disagree with the
two respected advisors, but IME it's completely useless. I've replaced loads
of it.

Best solution IMO is an 'L' shaped plastic profile - B&Q sell it. Two types
available, one fits under new tiles to provide a seal & the other fits over
existing tiles & is best fixed with something like Evostick Nail & Seal.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 00:44:33 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

GB wrote:
Adrian C wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide,
which is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is
a soft thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and
if they are applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze
the sealant tightly onto place.

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.


Any idea what it's called?

Alas I'd have to say it's called utter rubbish. Sorry to disagree with the
two respected advisors, but IME it's completely useless. I've replaced loads
of it.

Isn't that a Good Thing?

--
Frank Erskine

The Medway Handyman pretended :
Alas I'd have to say it's called utter rubbish. Sorry to disagree with the
two respected advisors, but IME it's completely useless. I've replaced loads
of it.

It is, if you do not apply pressure to it with a roller. I tried
various ways to get it to stay stuck, but the only thing which worked
was one of those decorating rollers - a small wooden roller with a
handle. It needs enough pressure placed onto it, that it forces the
sealant out then it stays put. I installed it over 15 years ago and its
fine.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

GB explained on 25/10/2009 :
Adrian C wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For the tiled area, you can buy a roll of plastic strip 1.5" wide,
which is hinged down the centre (0.75" per surface). On the back is
a soft thick sealant. These work well if the surfaces are clean and
if they are applied by applying pressure with a roller to squeeze
the sealant tightly onto place.

Yup, works well - we've had that stuff in use for over 10 years now.


Any idea what it's called?

I think it is made by 3M.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

GB
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 22:43

There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim
of the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just use
silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I made
sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of silicone in
that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath flexes.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:16:58 +0000, Tim W wrote:


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just use
silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I made
sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of silicone in
that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath flexes.

The answer to that is to supprt the bath properly. One, with a batten around the
wall and two, by reinforcing the usually inadequate baseboard.

Andy C

"Andy Cap" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:16:58 +0000, Tim W wrote:


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just
use
silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I made
sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of silicone in
that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath flexes.

The answer to that is to supprt the bath properly. One, with a batten
around the
wall and two, by reinforcing the usually inadequate baseboard.

Andy C

I agree - preventing movement has to be the first step. My bath has had a
bead of sealant for about 12 years and it is still like new, Strips seem to
attract mould and trap any damp that gets in.

Andy Cap
wibbled on Monday 26 October 2009 08:27

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:16:58 +0000, Tim W wrote:


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just
use silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I
made sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of
silicone in that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath
flexes.

The answer to that is to supprt the bath properly. One, with a batten
around the wall and two, by reinforcing the usually inadequate baseboard.

In my case, already done - 3x3" and 4x2" all round except the front - and
that has its own 2x2" frame bracing it to the floor and to carry the bath
panel.

There is still a tiny bit of flexing here and there - it's impossible to
completely eliminate it with plastic.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Tim W wrote:
Andy Cap
wibbled on Monday 26 October 2009 08:27

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:16:58 +0000, Tim W wrote:


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just
use silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I
made sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of
silicone in that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath
flexes.
The answer to that is to supprt the bath properly. One, with a batten
around the wall and two, by reinforcing the usually inadequate baseboard.

In my case, already done - 3x3" and 4x2" all round except the front - and
that has its own 2x2" frame bracing it to the floor and to carry the bath
panel.

There is still a tiny bit of flexing here and there - it's impossible to
completely eliminate it with plastic.

I always fill the bath at least half full before I start and leave for
for 48 hours after.

Andy Cap wrote:
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:16:58 +0000, Tim W wrote:


Have you got 3-4mm gap and less than perhaps 10mm? If so, why not just use
silicone (a decent one not cheap rubbish)? That's what I've done - I made
sure to leave about 5mm gap +/- so I can get a decent plug of silicone in
that won't (hopefully) fall off the first time the bath flexes.

The answer to that is to supprt the bath properly. One, with a batten around the
wall and two, by reinforcing the usually inadequate baseboard.


Oh, I go a lot further than that with a cheap bath. Slabs of MDF stuck
on with car body filler and a full 2x2 frame. And a bit more wood
backing up the base if there is any sign of flex.

expanding foam is also useful.



Andy C

In article ,
"GB" writes:
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

Having found dry rot when pulling out the old bath due to leakage
at this join (fortunately not serious in this case), I was rather
concerned to make sure that couldn't happen again. I put a wide
strip of silicone along the two bath edges which butt against the
wall and slid the bath into place. 7 years later, nothing has
leaked through the join. On the visible surface, the join is
simply grouted, along with all the tiles.

Mind you, I dread the day I have to remove the bath...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:01:41 +0000 (UTC), (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

Having found dry rot when pulling out the old bath due to leakage
at this join (fortunately not serious in this case), I was rather
concerned to make sure that couldn't happen again. I put a wide
strip of silicone along the two bath edges which butt against the
wall and slid the bath into place. 7 years later, nothing has
leaked through the join. On the visible surface, the join is
simply grouted, along with all the tiles.

Mind you, I dread the day I have to remove the bath...

I did similar. Waterproofed the wall. Put a bead of silicone on that before
putting the bath in place. Then a bead of sealant into the gap. Then tiled. Then
applied the final bead of sealant. I have just redone that after about 10 years.

Andy C

On 26 Oct, 09:45, Andy Cap wrote:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:01:41 +0000 (UTC), (Andrew

Gabriel) wrote:
Having found dry rot when pulling out the old bath due to leakage
at this join (fortunately not serious in this case), I was rather
concerned to make sure that couldn't happen again. I put a wide
strip of silicone along the two bath edges which butt against the
wall and slid the bath into place. 7 years later, nothing has
leaked through the join. On the visible surface, the join is
simply grouted, along with all the tiles.

Mind you, I dread the day I have to remove the bath...

I did similar. Waterproofed the wall. Put a bead of silicone on that before
putting the bath in place. Then a bead of sealant into the gap. Then tiled. Then
applied the final bead of sealant. I have just redone that after about 10 years.

Andy C

I did that. BAL WP1 on wall, and the 3 stage silicone approach. I
thought "no chance any water will get past all that"!
Also, loads of timber under the bath to support it.
Simon.

sm_jamieson
wibbled on Monday 26 October 2009 10:08

On 26 Oct, 09:45, Andy Cap wrote:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:01:41 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew

Gabriel) wrote:
Having found dry rot when pulling out the old bath due to leakage
at this join (fortunately not serious in this case), I was rather
concerned to make sure that couldn't happen again. I put a wide
strip of silicone along the two bath edges which butt against the
wall and slid the bath into place. 7 years later, nothing has
leaked through the join. On the visible surface, the join is
simply grouted, along with all the tiles.

Mind you, I dread the day I have to remove the bath...

I did similar. Waterproofed the wall. Put a bead of silicone on that
before putting the bath in place. Then a bead of sealant into the gap.
Then tiled. Then applied the final bead of sealant. I have just redone
that after about 10 years.

Andy C

I did that. BAL WP1 on wall,

I used SBR diliuted 4:1 - which was on the BAL Greenstar data sheet as an
alternative to WP1.

and the 3 stage silicone approach. I
thought "no chance any water will get past all that"!

2 stage for me: sealed the bath to the timber, tiled and sealed the tiles to
the bath.

Also, loads of timber under the bath to support it.
Simon.


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

In article ,
Tim W writes:

I used SBR diliuted 4:1 - which was on the BAL Greenstar data sheet as an
alternative to WP1.

I didn't waterproof the wall (bare new plaster).
However, I did use a waterproofing grout additive,
BAL admix GT1, IIRC. Very expensive, but a little
goes a long way. (Gave the rest of it to my dad, and
he's done another very large shower enclosure with it,
and still had plenty left over, although it's now well
past its use-by date.)

So far, there's no water staining on the bare plaster
under the bath. The bath is actually mainly used with
the fitted show over it, so loads of water runs down
the tiles into it. Also, there's no staining of the
grout at all, which is what I hoped the waterproofing
grout additive would prevent. I would certainly use
that again.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 03:08:14 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Also, loads of timber under the bath to support it.


I filled the space under the chipboard base of the bath with expanding
foam, as suggested on here a couple of years ago. The bath is still
as firm and stable as it was when the foam set.

I used a suitable sized cardboard box (sides only) to contain the
foam, and used Visqueen over the floor to ensure that removal of the
bath won't be any more difficult.

GB wrote:
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

WEll I do it my own way.

I use a thick bead of silicone first, and then tile over it to hide it.

Grout forms the final seal, yes bath flex means there is a small
hairline crack, but that doesn't matter, cos the grout is only cosmetic.
The silicone dies the real sealing.

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 22:43:52 -0000, GB wrote:
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

The secret to any bath / wall sealant is to have absolutely no flexture
between the bath and wall, from when the bath's empty to when it has
200kg of water + person(s) in it. Without that, nothing will work.

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:05:10 GMT, pete wrote:

The secret to any bath / wall sealant is to have absolutely no flexture
between the bath and wall, from when the bath's empty to when it has
200kg of water + person(s) in it. Without that, nothing will work.

That's why you should fill the bath with water before you apply the
silicone sealant, then leave it full for at least 24hrs afterwards.
The gap will be at it's widest with the load and will put the seal
into compression when empty. Rather than sealing with the bath empty
then having the seal in tension (thus prone to failure) when the bath
is used.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
[...]
you should fill the bath with water before you apply the silicone
sealant, then leave it full for at least 24hrs afterwards. The gap will
be at it's widest with the load and will put the seal into compression
when empty. Rather than sealing with the bath empty then having the
seal in tension (thus prone to failure) when the bath is used.

Yes, completely agreed.

But here's a slightly different problem: what about the case where the
bath edge has a rather large radius? After filling the bath and sealing
the gap by the approved method, I have no worries about splashes or
condensation getting past the seal, but instead we're left with a small
gutter in which water collects.

One of the strip profiles (about a 3/4in scotia) would bridge the gutter
without looking too ugly, but with the nearest DIY shed 65 miles away
I've been reading this thread with great interest. Thanks to everyone
for the comments and information.



--
Ian White

On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 08:33:47 +0000, Ian White wrote:

But here's a slightly different problem: what about the case where the
bath edge has a rather large radius? After filling the bath and sealing
the gap by the approved method, I have no worries about splashes or
condensation getting past the seal, but instead we're left with a small
gutter in which water collects.

But the instuctions for baths and silicone seal almost invariably say
wipe down after use... Wiping down will also reduce the chance of
black mould and/or the brown detergent residue build up.

One of the strip profiles (about a 3/4in scotia) would bridge the gutter
without looking too ugly, but with the nearest DIY shed 65 miles away

Ouch I thought I was "remote" with the nearest shed 20+ miles away.
It certainly concentrates your mind on what you really need and how
much of it you need.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
But here's a slightly different problem: what about the case where the
bath edge has a rather large radius? After filling the bath and sealing
the gap by the approved method, I have no worries about splashes or
condensation getting past the seal, but instead we're left with a small
gutter in which water collects.

But the instuctions for baths and silicone seal almost invariably say
wipe down after use... Wiping down will also reduce the chance of black
mould and/or the brown detergent residue build up.

Agreed, but those duties shouldn't include bailing out standing water.
The wallbath profile should definitely be self draining.

One of the strip profiles (about a 3/4in scotia) would bridge the gutter
without looking too ugly, but with the nearest DIY shed 65 miles away

Ouch I thought I was "remote" with the nearest shed 20+ miles away.

Stranraer (a mere 30 miles away) may finally get its very first DIY shed
next year.

Oh b****r, it's going to be Homebase.

It certainly concentrates your mind on what you really need and how
much of it you need.

TGF the Web and white vans.


--
Ian White

On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 08:33:47 +0000, Ian White
wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
[...]
you should fill the bath with water before you apply the silicone
sealant, then leave it full for at least 24hrs afterwards. The gap will
be at it's widest with the load and will put the seal into compression
when empty. Rather than sealing with the bath empty then having the
seal in tension (thus prone to failure) when the bath is used.

Yes, completely agreed.

But here's a slightly different problem: what about the case where the
bath edge has a rather large radius? After filling the bath and sealing
the gap by the approved method, I have no worries about splashes or
condensation getting past the seal, but instead we're left with a small
gutter in which water collects.

This sounds like the bath is designed to be free standing and not for
placing up near a wall.

One of the strip profiles (about a 3/4in scotia) would bridge the gutter
without looking too ugly, but with the nearest DIY shed 65 miles away
I've been reading this thread with great interest. Thanks to everyone
for the comments and information.

I think these are good:
http://www.schluter.co.uk/produkt.aspx?doc=4-10-dilex-as.xml&pg=funktion

They need to be fitted under the tiles, but provide a good seal.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.
[Reply-to address valid until it is spammed.]

pete wrote:
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 22:43:52 -0000, GB wrote:
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

The secret to any bath / wall sealant is to have absolutely no flexture
between the bath and wall, from when the bath's empty to when it has
200kg of water + person(s) in it. Without that, nothing will work.

Rubbish. Silicone run thick enough is perfectly flexible.

On 25 Oct, 22:43, "GB" wrote:
There seem to be a number of sealing system between the tiles and the rim of
the bath. Which are good? I have two to do - one already tiled and one
without any tiles.

--
Take it easy on the kid, SilverFox316; everybody kills Hitler on their first
trip.

buy a box of silicone sealant cartridges that fit into ordinary gun
£10 in b&q.do you for ages.make sure surface dry.get a cup of water
and once you make a bead just big enough to cover the joint,dip finger
incupand run along bead.

joethetaxi wrote:

get a cup of water
and once you make a bead just big enough to cover the joint,dip finger
incupand run along bead.

A builder friend told me that there was a spate of problems with cancer of
the mouth/lip. Apparently, builders were licking their finger, smoothing the
silicone, then repeating. True or urban myth?


--
Take it easy on the kid, SilverFox316; everybody kills Hitler on their
first trip.

On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:48:18 -0000, "GB"
wrote:

joethetaxi wrote:

get a cup of water
and once you make a bead just big enough to cover the joint,dip finger
incupand run along bead.

A builder friend told me that there was a spate of problems with cancer of
the mouth/lip. Apparently, builders were licking their finger, smoothing the
silicone, then repeating. True or urban myth?

And it seems to encourage mould/mildew.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.
[Reply-to address valid until it is spammed.]