Hi guys

my garage doors are of the type which are hinged (3 leaves one side, 2
the other) and which run off a suspended track to slide round to the
side of the garage, finishing parallel to the side wall.

The (wooden) leaves are starting to look very tatty, and not being a
great carpenter, and also with an eye to possible future automation, I
wondered if anyone could suggest an suitable replacement.

I think the original motivator for this type of door was the headroom
(or lack thereof). It's just a shade over 6'6", so having a roll-up or
up & over would mean you have to have a convertible, or not use the
garage.

chhers guys

"Jethro" wrote in message
...
Hi guys

my garage doors are of the type which are hinged (3 leaves one side, 2
the other) and which run off a suspended track to slide round to the
side of the garage, finishing parallel to the side wall.

The (wooden) leaves are starting to look very tatty, and not being a
great carpenter, and also with an eye to possible future automation, I
wondered if anyone could suggest an suitable replacement.

I think the original motivator for this type of door was the headroom
(or lack thereof). It's just a shade over 6'6", so having a roll-up or
up & over would mean you have to have a convertible, or not use the
garage.

chhers guys

I bought an Ideal SFL38 sectional door like:
http://www.idealdoors.com/DAM-Mirror...DP38_SFL38.pdf a few years
ago from some long gone importer in Wales.

This is a sectional soor (4 panels) and there is a low headroom kit option
which I have.

This means the door (when open) is about 4" from the bottom plane of the
roof joists.

2 man installation. Does what it says on the datasheet. It's cool. I
reckon 6'6" headroom is "doable".


David

On Sep 21, 3:02*pm, Jethro wrote:
Hi guys

my garage doors are of the type which are hinged (3 leaves one side, 2
the other) and which run off a suspended track to slide round to the
side of the garage, finishing parallel to the side wall.

The (wooden) leaves are starting to look very tatty, and not being a
great carpenter, and also with an eye to possible future automation, I
wondered if anyone could suggest an suitable replacement.

I think the original motivator for this type of door was the headroom
(or lack thereof). It's just a shade over 6'6", so having a roll-up or
up & over would mean you have to have a convertible, or not use the
garage.

chhers guys

WBP plywood?


NT

"NT" wrote in message
...
On Sep 21, 3:02 pm, Jethro wrote:
Hi guys

my garage doors are of the type which are hinged (3 leaves one side, 2
the other) and which run off a suspended track to slide round to the
side of the garage, finishing parallel to the side wall.

The (wooden) leaves are starting to look very tatty, and not being a
great carpenter, and also with an eye to possible future automation, I
wondered if anyone could suggest an suitable replacement.

I think the original motivator for this type of door was the headroom
(or lack thereof). It's just a shade over 6'6", so having a roll-up or
up & over would mean you have to have a convertible, or not use the
garage.

chhers guys

WBP plywood?


NT

I have a similar problem. My garage has a 15 foot opening with a 7 leaf
bifold/concertina door on a Henderson sliding track. The top track is still
fine but the bottom channel needs replacing. I know that Henderson still
make it so that is no problem. The leaves are panelled wood and the bottom
rail of each is starting to rot. A joiner friend is willing to repair them
but that would involve removing each leaf in turn, replacing the rail and
perhaps splicing in new side pieces near the bottom, rehanging the leaf and
then starting on the next. The big advantage of this door is that leaf 5
operates as a single entry door and as there is no other means of access, it
saves having to open the whole lot to get in. The track is fixed at ceiling
height so there is no possibility of up and over or roller shutter
(internally mounted) and all the big firms I have approached have laughed
when I told them the width. My joiner friend is approaching a UPVC
manufacturer to see if they could produce suitably profiled leaves to hang
on the original track.
Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

Lawrence

On 22 Sep, 19:21, "Lawrence" wrote:
"NT" wrote in message

...





On Sep 21, 3:02 pm, Jethro wrote:
Hi guys

my garage doors are of the type which are hinged (3 leaves one side, 2
the other) and which run off a suspended track to slide round to the
side of the garage, finishing parallel to the side wall.

The (wooden) leaves are starting to look very tatty, and not being a
great carpenter, and also with an eye to possible future automation, I
wondered if anyone could suggest an suitable replacement.

I think the original motivator for this type of door was the headroom
(or lack thereof). It's just a shade over 6'6", so having a roll-up or
up & over would mean you have to have a convertible, or not use the
garage.

chhers guys

WBP plywood?

NT

I have a similar problem. *My garage has a 15 foot opening with a 7 leaf
bifold/concertina door on a Henderson sliding track. *The top track is still
fine but the bottom channel needs replacing. *I know that Henderson still
make it so that is no problem. *The leaves are panelled wood and the bottom
rail of each is starting to rot. *A joiner friend is willing to repair them
but that would involve removing each leaf in turn, replacing the rail and
perhaps splicing in new side pieces near the bottom, rehanging the leaf and
then starting on the next. *The big advantage of this door is that leaf 5
operates as a single entry door and as there is no other means of access, it
saves having to open the whole lot to get in. *The track is fixed at ceiling
height so there is no possibility of up and over or roller shutter
(internally mounted) and all the big firms I have approached have laughed
when I told them the width. *My joiner friend is approaching a UPVC
manufacturer to see if they could produce suitably profiled leaves to hang
on the original track.
Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

Lawrence- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The chances are, had you, or the previous owner, painted the original
regularly it wouldn't need repair/replacement now. I suggest you get
your joiner friend to repair it and then invoke, and stick to, a
thorough maintenance regime.

Most people repaint when the original paint starts to fail.

Wrong! Repainting should be done before then to maintain the
protection.