Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-538.html
or this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-539.html

What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...whi-p-511.html
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html but
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a lighted area.

I also found this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-loc...041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Phil

On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:25:46 +0100, Phil Addison wrote:

Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-538.html
or this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-539.html

What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...whi-p-511.html
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html but
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a lighted area.

I also found this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-loc...041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Phil

LEDs do not have insulation deemed suitable for mains, unless you have one
with a surround and lens. The other problem is that you don't normally have
a neutral available at a lightswitch, hence you can light a neon or LED
easily enough when the switch is off (using the switched light as the path
to neutral, as the current is too low to light it), but not when the switch
is on.

SteveW

On 5 Sep, 18:57, Steve Walker wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:25:46 +0100, Phil Addison wrote:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...on-k5423d1whi-...
or this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...k5423whwhi-p-5...

What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...-k4870-whi-p-5...
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being thishttp://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.htmlbut
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a *lighted area.

I also found this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-loc...041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Phil

LEDs do not have insulation deemed suitable for mains, unless you have one
with a surround and lens. The other problem is that you don't normally have
a neutral available at a lightswitch, hence you can light a neon or LED
easily enough when the switch is off (using the switched light as the path
to neutral, as the current is too low to light it), but not when the switch
is on.

SteveW

What the OP wants is a "panel neon", e.g.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...neon&source=15 or
LED: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...0led&source=15
but check that they aren't too deep for the switch box.

However, I wonder whether a neon/LED will be prominent enough in
daylight, or too easy to ignore even if it is.

If the door is visible down a corridor, you could just drill a hole,
or even replace a whole panel with frosted glass, but again it may be
difficult to see in daylight.

A third possibility is to replace the switch by a motion (sorry)
detector as used for security lights.

A delayed-off time switch is another possibility, but would need to be
inside so that it could be reactivated if things take longer than
expected!

Chris

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:44:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On 5 Sep, 18:57, Steve Walker wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:25:46 +0100, Phil Addison wrote:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...on-k5423d1whi-...
or this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...k5423whwhi-p-5...

What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...-k4870-whi-p-5...
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html but
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a *lighted area.

I also found this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-loc...041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Phil

LEDs do not have insulation deemed suitable for mains, unless you have one
with a surround and lens. The other problem is that you don't normally have
a neutral available at a lightswitch, hence you can light a neon or LED
easily enough when the switch is off (using the switched light as the path
to neutral, as the current is too low to light it), but not when the switch
is on.

SteveW

What the OP wants is a "panel neon", e.g.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...neon&source=15 or

Thats the one! thank you! enclosed and fully mains rated. The box is
51mm deep from front of switch so the 29mm lamp will fit easily.

LED: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...0led&source=15
but check that they aren't too deep for the switch box.

However, I wonder whether a neon/LED will be prominent enough in
daylight, or too easy to ignore even if it is.

We walk past it often enough so I think the red neon will be fine.

If the door is visible down a corridor, you could just drill a hole,
or even replace a whole panel with frosted glass, but again it may be
difficult to see in daylight.

A third possibility is to replace the switch by a motion (sorry)
detector as used for security lights.

A delayed-off time switch is another possibility, but would need to be
inside so that it could be reactivated if things take longer than
expected!

I did have the switch inside originally, but of course its dark in there
until you find where the switch is, so moved it outside, where it does
seem more 'convenient' on the whole.

As others pointed out (thank you Steve, Dave) the neutral is absent, but
I can run one in fairly easily, but am inclined to use the earth. IIRC
the series resistor is usually of the order of 220K so only adds a
milliamp to the leakage current. I can always add the neutral later if
leakage is a problem. My CU is due for an upgrade anyway as it is
currently the old fuse-box type.

Phil

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:44:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

A third possibility is to replace the switch by a motion (sorry)
detector as used for security lights.

A PIR is a good solution. I had one in the kitchen of my old flat as
I'd be for ever leaving the lights on (3 x 100W spots) and
forgetting. Has the advantage that the light comes on automagically
when you enter and if it does switch off you just wave to switch it
back on.

An inital thought was a micro switch operated by the door, closed =
off. But that isn't very convenient when the room is in use. I don't
think a two way switching arrangement would solve that either.

--
Cheers
Dave.

coughed up some electrons that declared:

What the OP wants is a "panel neon", e.g.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...neon&source=15 or
LED: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...0led&source=15
but check that they aren't too deep for the switch box.

However, I wonder whether a neon/LED will be prominent enough in
daylight, or too easy to ignore even if it is.

I was going to suggest a grid switch panel (single gang, 2 grid modules),
one 10AX switch and one grid indicator (amber, red or green). Those are all
designed for easy wiring and of course 240V.

The problem remains as to where to get a neutral from. I'm not sure what
current a grid neon takes (largely determined by the series resistor, but I
wouldn't advocate linking it to earth.

B&Q sell the MK range of grid stuff including indicators, but GET do a nice
range with pretty switches and nice panels if you need to match some
existing scheme eg brass or white nickle etc.

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Phil Addison wrote:
What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...whi-p-511.html
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html but
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a lighted area.

Snag is light switches don't normally have a neutral available. The type
which is on with the light off gets the neutral via the light - since it
only takes a small current, the lightbulb looks like a short to it and
thus provides the return. I suppose you could run a small neon to earth -
since this is no worse than many SMPS do. But don't tell anyone I
suggested this.

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Snag is light switches don't normally have a neutral available. The type
which is on with the light off gets the neutral via the light - since it
only takes a small current, the lightbulb looks like a short to it and
thus provides the return. I suppose you could run a small neon to earth -
since this is no worse than many SMPS do. But don't tell anyone I
suggested this.

As long as the rcd, if present, doesn't trip.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
Snag is light switches don't normally have a neutral available. The
type which is on with the light off gets the neutral via the light -
since it only takes a small current, the lightbulb looks like a short
to it and thus provides the return. I suppose you could run a small
neon to earth - since this is no worse than many SMPS do. But don't
tell anyone I suggested this.

As long as the rcd, if present, doesn't trip.

It won't from a neon alone - they take near zero current. Otherwise neon
screwdrivers would be a tad dangerous. IIRC, of the order of 1-2 mA. Less
than many SMPS dump onto the earth.

--
*A picture may be worth a thousand words, but it uses up a thousand times more memory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sep 5, 4:25*pm, Phil Addison wrote:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-bottom-flexneon-k5423d1whi-...
or thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-water-heater-k5423whwhi-p-5...

Depending on what aspect of these switches you find clunky, other
brands may be more suitable. Crabtree's DP switch is visually very
similar to the light switch, so the neon version looks like a light
switch with a neon just above the switch.

A

wrote in message
...
On Sep 5, 4:25 pm, Phil Addison wrote:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like
thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-bottom-flexneon-k5423d1whi-...
or
thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-water-heater-k5423whwhi-p-5...

Depending on what aspect of these switches you find clunky, other
brands may be more suitable. Crabtree's DP switch is visually very
similar to the light switch, so the neon version looks like a light
switch with a neon just above the switch.

I used
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Elec...es/d190/sd2723
so i had a light next to the switch in my shed.
They are cheap, but as its been said before you need a neutral.
I suppose it would be possible to retrofit a flashing led into a neon
housing and run it on batteries for months at a time.

A

On Sep 5, 4:25*pm, Phil Addison wrote:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-bottom-flexneon-k5423d1whi-...
or thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-switch-water-heater-k5423whwhi-p-5...

What I really want is a basic light switch like thishttp://www.fastlec.co..uk/mk-10a-1g-sp-1-way-plateswitch-k4870-whi-p-5...
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being thishttp://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.htmlbut
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a *lighted area.

I also found thishttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-locator-200250v-50hz-k3041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Phil


Cnnected from L to E a neon on a 220k resistor will add in the region
of 0.7mA. An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with
decent light output. And if you run it from a CR dropper the power
diss would be even tinier. The LED would need a rectifier of course.


NT

Cnnected from L to E a neon on a 220k resistor will add in the region
of 0.7mA. An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with
decent light output. And if you run it from a CR dropper the power
diss would be even tinier. The LED would need a rectifier of course.


NT
Wouldnt this add to RCD trip current?

Why not wire it between L and N?

And how does the switchlite work?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html
it glows when not switched on,
but has no Neutral or Earth connection,
is it like my neon mains testing screwdriver?

[g]

george (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:




Cnnected from L to E a neon on a 220k resistor will add in the region
of 0.7mA. An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with
decent light output. And if you run it from a CR dropper the power
diss would be even tinier. The LED would need a rectifier of course.


NT
Wouldnt this add to RCD trip current?

Why not wire it between L and N?

And how does the switchlite work?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html
it glows when not switched on,
but has no Neutral or Earth connection,
is it like my neon mains testing screwdriver?

No - that neon goes across the switch and uses the load as a relative
neutral when switched off - which works well with a resistive load.
Electronic loads, eg a CFL are a different story but if the current is low
enough you may get away with it. In other cases you can get weird effects
like the CFL flashing.

On Sep 5, 11:27*pm, "george (dicegeorge)"
wrote:
Cnnected from L to E a neon on a 220k resistor will add in the region
of 0.7mA. An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with
decent light output. And if you run it from a CR dropper the power
diss would be even tinier. The LED would need a rectifier of course.

NT

Wouldnt this add to RCD trip current?

yes, but by very little


Why not wire it between L and N?

there's often no N present


NT

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009 18:24:02 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:

On Sep 5, 11:27*pm, "george (dicegeorge)"
wrote:
Cnnected from L to E a neon on a 220k resistor will add in the region
of 0.7mA. An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with
decent light output. And if you run it from a CR dropper the power
diss would be even tinier. The LED would need a rectifier of course.

NT

Wouldnt this add to RCD trip current?

yes, but by very little

Why not wire it between L and N?

there's often no N present

NT

um, how about a switch with very obvious on and off appearance and just
look at it.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

In article
,
NT wrote:
The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

--
*The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 23:59:22 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article
,
NT wrote:
The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

That's neat. That will bypasses the LED on the reverse cycle, and is
probably easier to wire in than a series diode. It allows you to use a
tiny low voltage diode whereas the series one needs to be a bigger mains
rated 1N400x series. OTOH it draws twice the current of the series
solution, but still a mA or so.

Doesn't the 1/2 wave rectification halve the brightness though? An
electrolytic capacitor in parallel should solve that if it doesn't need
too many uF's - haven't calculated the size.

Phil

On Sep 6, 12:25*am, Phil Addison wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 23:59:22 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:
The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

That's neat. That will bypasses the LED on the reverse cycle, and is
probably easier to wire in than a series diode. It allows you to use a
tiny low voltage diode whereas the series one needs to be a bigger mains
rated 1N400x series. OTOH it draws twice the current of the series
solution, but still a mA or so.

Doesn't the 1/2 wave rectification halve the brightness though? An
electrolytic capacitor in parallel should solve that if it doesn't need
too many uF's - haven't calculated the size.

Phil

Thats another downside of the circuit, you cant smooth the power with
a little reservoir capacitor.


NT

"Phil Addison" wrote in message
...


Doesn't the 1/2 wave rectification halve the brightness though? An
electrolytic capacitor in parallel should solve that if it doesn't need
too many uF's - haven't calculated the size.

It will flicker wont it.

On Sep 5, 11:59*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

you can, but the resulting flicker is terrible. Worth going for 100Hz
flicker imho. That also gets you half the capacitor size.


NT

In uk.d-i-y, NT wrote:
On Sep 5, 11:59*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

you can, but the resulting flicker is terrible. Worth going for 100Hz
flicker imho. That also gets you half the capacitor size.

How about a pair of LEDs, reversed and paralleled, and mounted very
close to each other (perhaps behind the same diffuser)?

And there must be a reason why you can't connect the diode pair in
series with the load, otherwise it would have been suggested by now.
What's the reason?

--
Mike Barnes

On Sep 6, 9:46*am, Mike Barnes wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, NT wrote:
On Sep 5, 11:59*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

you can, but the resulting flicker is terrible. Worth going for 100Hz
flicker imho. That also gets you half the capacitor size.

How about a pair of LEDs, reversed and paralleled, and mounted very
close to each other (perhaps behind the same diffuser)?

And there must be a reason why you can't connect the diode pair in
series with the load, otherwise it would have been suggested by now.
What's the reason?

You can put a diode in series with the LED. But... you then need a
leakage resistor across the LED, you get bad flicker, and you can only
use an R dropper, not a CR.


NT

In article
,
NT wrote:
On Sep 5, 11:59 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
NT wrote:

The LED would need a rectifier of course.

You just parallel a reverse connected diode to the LED for AC. Plus a
suitable current limiting resistor, of course.

you can, but the resulting flicker is terrible. Worth going for 100Hz
flicker imho. That also gets you half the capacitor size.

I suppose it depends on the individual but I didn't notice it.

--
*Don't worry; it only seems kinky the first time.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009 15:01:58 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:

An ultrabright LED can be run off much less than 1mA with decent light
output.

Certainly so, got a bit of kit with a blindingly bright blue LED on
the front. It lit the room up at night! Hacked into the wiring to add
a series resistor, the thing would glow with the leakage through my
dry fingers from the 3v supply. IIRC it now taking 60uA and is still
too bright...

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article ,
Phil Addison writes:
Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this

Replace the switch with an occupancy sensor (mains PIR)
inside the room, or just leave the switch on all the time
and add the occupancy sensor next to the light, or replace
with a light fitting with a built-in occupancy sensor.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:25:46 +0100, Phil Addison wrote:

Any suggestions for a source of illuminated light switch as a reminder
that the light it feeds is still on? We have a loo under the stairs with
the light switch on the outside and it sometimes gets left switched on
so the fan remains running (as well as the light being on). I don't want
to fit a clunky 20Amp DP mains switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-538.html
or this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-20a-dp-s...whi-p-539.html

What I really want is a basic light switch like this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-10a-1g-s...whi-p-511.html
but with a neon indicator incorporated. I can't find such a thing, the
nearest being this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DT2503A.html but
it works the wrong way round - the illumination is 'on' when the switch
is 'off' - its so you can find the switch in the dark. I suspect the
wiring could be reversed, but as it's intended to show up in the dark it
may not be bright enough for use in a lighted area.

I also found this
http://www.fastlec.co.uk/mk-neon-loc...041-p-496.html
which is an illuminated section that sits between the switch and the
back-box. Again I'm not sure if its bright enough and it seems a bit of
an overkill.

I'm considering modifying a standard light switch by drilling a hole
into which a small neon or LED is fitted. There is some safety
consideration here so wonder if there is suitable double insulated
neon/led available. Failing that I think I need to create some kind or
perspex window in the switch with the neon/led behind it.

Any thoughts?

Idly been watching this thread over the last couple of days looking at some
of the weird and wonderful suggestions.

I did something like this many many years ago for loft lights, back in the
days when I thought I was going to build a model railway - never did
happen! All I did was drill and fit a small neon indicator in one corner of
the switch plate, wired switch terminal to earth on the box. Alright, I
know it was back in the days when rcds weren't commonly used, but taking a
quick look at the Farnell web site, many of their 230v leds have a forward
current of about 3mA so shouldn't present too much of a problem.


--
The Wanderer

All wighy, rho sriyched yhe ket pads on my ketboawd?

On Mon, 7 Sep 2009 14:03:14 +0100, The Wanderer
wrote:

All I did was drill and fit a small neon indicator in one corner of
the switch plate, wired switch terminal to earth on the box. Alright, I
know it was back in the days when rcds weren't commonly used, but taking a
quick look at the Farnell web site, many of their 230v leds have a forward
current of about 3mA so shouldn't present too much of a problem.

Keep up at the back!
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3...861success.jpg

Phil