OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David
Yup. He's right. This is where you remove enough plasterboard to find
something solid, attach some wood to it, and put the plasterboard back
and re-skim and repaint..then think about mounting the bracket..

On Jul 31, 9:22*am, Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? *Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

wibbled:

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).


It's probably block, not brick behind the PB.

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

I hung some speakers up in a similar build flat years ago - they were
probably about as heavy as your TV.

If you can find a "dab" where the plasterboard is fixed to the wall, mount
the bracket on that and through into the blocks - that dab will be enough
to prevent the plasterboard crushing when you do the screws up.

Allow an extra inch on the fixings to clear the PB and the gap. Frame
fixings might also work quite well in this scenario but I've not tried.

If there isn't a convenient dab, I'd fall back to previous suggesstions
about cutting the PB out and inserting wood - or perhaps glueing the PB
back on solid PB adhesive which would achieve the same effect.

Cheers

Tim

wrote:
On Jul 31, 9:22 am, Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.
What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?
First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

Oh..usual trick then.

Stuff a page of the Daily Mail down the hole to support a great gob of
car body filler which you will use to form a nice load bearing drillable
entity. Paints well too..

"paulfoel" wrote in message
...
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

How deep do you have to go before you hit something solid like a brick wall
behind the plaster board?
If its only a couple of inches you fill the holes and the gap behind the
holes and drill it out with a long enough drill to get a couple of inches in
the solid wall behind.

If its a stud wall you need to fix to the studding not the plaster board.
If the studding is in the wrong place you will have to fit new studding in
the wall or put a sheet of wood on the wall and fixed to the studs either
side.

On a large heavy plasma I ended up suspending the thing using threaded rood
from the ceiling joists with the bracket screwed to the wall to stabilise
the whole thing. It was a cr@p wall though as it was two sheets of plaster
board with corrugated cardboard between.

On Jul 31, 9:11�am, paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

Whatever you do, do it properly. Only a few weeks ago a young child
died as a TV pulled out its mounting brackets and fell on her:-(

George

Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152


Except that you can't subsequently remove and replace the bolt without the
toggle disappearing inside the cavity
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Stuart Noble wrote:
Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud
is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to
rip off their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put
in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152

My favourite is these;
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...FIXING-_-12229

Aldi had a set of them with a fixing tool last week for a tenner.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Aug 5, 8:09*am, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud
is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to
rip off their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put
in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

These are fine for most applications

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ixings/Spring+....

My favourite is these;http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...ngs/Hollow-Wal...

Aldi had a set of them with a fixing tool last week for a tenner.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Do you not find they can turn in the board, especially if have to take
something off the wall a few times?

I tried a few in the past and some seemed to go like that, that's why
stuck with the snaptoggles, mind I'm not in the trade so to speak

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Gogs wrote:

Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php


Look interesting. Where do you get them in UK - the above website is
obviously American?
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Gogs" wrote in message
...
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



I hope I never have to be in your place, toggles can't hold much at all.
The correct solution has already been given.. fill behind the board and use
screws long enough to reach the solid stuff behind.

dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
om...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the situation
requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the plaster
board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier than a
clock.

Stuart Noble wrote:
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

Don't disagree with him, he'll have a conniption fit & start becoming
abusive.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk