OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David
Yup. He's right. This is where you remove enough plasterboard to find
something solid, attach some wood to it, and put the plasterboard back
and re-skim and repaint..then think about mounting the bracket..

"paulfoel" wrote in message
...
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

How deep do you have to go before you hit something solid like a brick wall
behind the plaster board?
If its only a couple of inches you fill the holes and the gap behind the
holes and drill it out with a long enough drill to get a couple of inches in
the solid wall behind.

If its a stud wall you need to fix to the studding not the plaster board.
If the studding is in the wrong place you will have to fit new studding in
the wall or put a sheet of wood on the wall and fixed to the studs either
side.

On a large heavy plasma I ended up suspending the thing using threaded rood
from the ceiling joists with the bracket screwed to the wall to stabilise
the whole thing. It was a cr@p wall though as it was two sheets of plaster
board with corrugated cardboard between.

On Jul 31, 9:22*am, Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

First, what sort of wall construction is this? *Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

wibbled:

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).


It's probably block, not brick behind the PB.

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

I hung some speakers up in a similar build flat years ago - they were
probably about as heavy as your TV.

If you can find a "dab" where the plasterboard is fixed to the wall, mount
the bracket on that and through into the blocks - that dab will be enough
to prevent the plasterboard crushing when you do the screws up.

Allow an extra inch on the fixings to clear the PB and the gap. Frame
fixings might also work quite well in this scenario but I've not tried.

If there isn't a convenient dab, I'd fall back to previous suggesstions
about cutting the PB out and inserting wood - or perhaps glueing the PB
back on solid PB adhesive which would achieve the same effect.

Cheers

Tim

wrote:
On Jul 31, 9:22 am, Lobster wrote:
paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.
What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?
First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry
lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid
material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?

There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one
thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to
support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I
suspect you've discovered).

David

Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an
outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

Oh..usual trick then.

Stuff a page of the Daily Mail down the hole to support a great gob of
car body filler which you will use to form a nice load bearing drillable
entity. Paints well too..

On Jul 31, 12:01*pm, Owain wrote:
On 31 July, 10:16, " *wrote:

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

That'll hang from plasterboard if you're hanging it *flush* to the
wall because most of the load will be pulling-down on the
plasterboard, but if you're using a tilt/swivel bracket or similar
then the load will be pulling-out from the plasterboard and that is
where plasterboard is weak.

Owain

Its a tilt/swivel.

On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 04:59:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Jul 31, 12:01*pm, Owain wrote:
On 31 July, 10:16, " *wrote:

BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.

That'll hang from plasterboard if you're hanging it *flush* to the
wall because most of the load will be pulling-down on the
plasterboard, but if you're using a tilt/swivel bracket or similar
then the load will be pulling-out from the plasterboard and that is
where plasterboard is weak.

Owain

Its a tilt/swivel.

If you've got blockwork behind, then why not just fasten to the blockwork?
If you want to avoid cutting holes and making good to get battens in there,
then how about long screws, oversized holes in the plasterboard and large
diameter dowel in there as spacers (or a lot of washers!), so that the
fixing is to the blockwork, but the screws tighten the plate up against the
dowels and the dowels against the blockwork, so the plasterboard is not
taking any of the load?

SteveW

On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:06:51 +0100, "R D S" wrote:

I'm enjoying your blog, nice to see i'm not alone in many of my opinions.

Sounds like they've taken away your "Daily Mirror" and banned you from
the saloon bar.

What specifically is it that provokes some to accuse others of being a Daily
**** reader?

If I think that many politicians are parasitic scumbags, for example, does
that mean I am prone to being brainwashed by the media?

An interesting point. I only know one MP personally. Looking at his
lifestyle, I think he's reasonably clean as far as expenses go. If
the next witch-hunt is about freebie jaunts around the world he might
suffer a bit :-)

Apart from that, my information comes from the media. When they
report on something I know about, the tendency is to get it
consistently and grossly wrong. Or they focus obsessively on a minor
aspect of the subject.

Anyway, that blog DOES read like saloon bar ranting or the Mirror on a
bad day :-)

Laurence Payne wrote:

An interesting point. I only know one MP personally. Looking at his
lifestyle, I think he's reasonably clean as far as expenses go. If
the next witch-hunt is about freebie jaunts around the world he might
suffer a bit :-)

I know several, and I know one of the famous "spin doctors". Words like
"clean" don't apply. Terms like "self-serving scumbags willing to lie
throught their teeth to the electorate to further their selfish aims" do
apply. The electorate should closely scrutinise their elected
representatives. At present we dont. However even the most shallow
investigation reveals things that should act as glaring great alarm
bells. For example, a typical MP is as poor as a churchmouse before
gaining office. Nowadays the most typical MPs work as parliamentary
researchers, hack journalists, local authority clerks and local
councillors before becoming MPs. All of these are low paid or unpaid
"professions".

How then do MPs manage to live in the Mercedes driving, stockbroker belt
life style on £64,000 a year? Houses in my local constituency are priced
around the hald-million pound mark, upwards. The *average* price in the
village where my MP lives is £1.1 million. Before election he really was
a no-income nobody. So how did he manage to move shortly after election
to a home in that village, complete with all the trimmings of a
lifestyle more lavish than people on salaries of £300,000 a year? Oh,
and with an expensive London home as well?

A quick perusal of his expenses in the Telegraph gives a hint.

These individuals largely learn how to guzzle at the public trough as
councillors who are supposedly volunteers but who trouser in excess of
£70,000pa in expenses.

There are a few "decent" ones around, but I suspect that the electorate
in general wouldn't like MPs like them. For example, Ms Widdecombe shows
admirable fiscal restraint as does Mike Hancock from Portsmouth South. I
can't see either of them fulfilling the electorate's desires for
representation.

On Sat, 1 Aug 2009 11:51:59 +0100, (Steve Firth)
wrote:

An interesting point. I only know one MP personally. Looking at his
lifestyle, I think he's reasonably clean as far as expenses go. If
the next witch-hunt is about freebie jaunts around the world he might
suffer a bit :-)

I know several, and I know one of the famous "spin doctors".

Ever considered drinking in a better class of pub?

On Sat, 1 Aug 2009 11:51:59 +0100 Steve Firth wrote :
There are a few "decent" ones around, but I suspect that the electorate
in general wouldn't like MPs like them. For example, Ms Widdecombe shows
admirable fiscal restraint as does Mike Hancock from Portsmouth South. I
can't see either of them fulfilling the electorate's desires for
representation.

My MP, before moving to Australia, was the outstanding Vince Cable. Rated
100% clean by the Telegraph. Also someone with a very impressive CV who
gave up a very well paid job (chief economist of Shell Oil) to become an
MP. But he's twice been passed over as party leader on the grounds that
he's too old and not charismatic enough. If you want youthful charisma and
no gravitas then I guess Dave is your next PM.

--
Tony Bryer, 'Software to build on' from Greentram
www.superbeam.co.uk www.superbeam.com www.greentram.com

Tony Bryer wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2009 11:51:59 +0100 Steve Firth wrote :
There are a few "decent" ones around, but I suspect that the
electorate in general wouldn't like MPs like them. For example, Ms
Widdecombe shows admirable fiscal restraint as does Mike Hancock
from Portsmouth South. I can't see either of them fulfilling the
electorate's desires for representation.

My MP, before moving to Australia, was the outstanding Vince Cable.
Rated 100% clean by the Telegraph. Also someone with a very
impressive CV who gave up a very well paid job (chief economist of
Shell Oil) to become an MP. But he's twice been passed over as party
leader on the grounds that he's too old and not charismatic enough.
If you want youthful charisma and no gravitas then I guess Dave is
your next PM.

Sadly, I have to agree. I am a rare beast, a paid up member of the LimDems
for more years than I wish to state, though I suffer from hip problems and
would have had milk bottle glasses years ago, (to give my age away).

There have only been two politicians in the recent past that I have any
regard for: Frank Field and Vince Cable. Both talk sense.

There are two that I despise: the grinning idiot and his successor. The
successor has done much to ensure that we have strikes in the future as
publically paid workers complain about endeavours to reduce their pensions
due to the evil actions of Brown. The Idiot has destroyed pensions for the
UK. "I think I'll sell gold at its lowest price". What a prat. Clueless is a
word that comes to mind.

Shutting up Frank Field, as the grinning idiot did was destructive to
resolving issues that need to be addressed. I hope (with low expectation)
that Vince Cable could play a more major role.

On Sun, 2 Aug 2009 00:09:37 +0100 Clot wrote :
The Idiot has destroyed pensions for the UK.
"I think I'll sell gold at its lowest price". What a prat. Clueless
is a word that comes to mind.

Check out http://www.the-privateer.com/chart/gold-pf.html and you
will see (1) if you mask off the post 2001? part there is no reason
to expect that the price would have moved in the way it has; and (2)
that if the Conservatives were that clever they could have sold off
the UK gold reserves in Jan 1983 or Dec 1987 and bought them back a
year or two later for half the price. Instead they borrowed billions
at interest rates much higher than now whilst holding onto a asset
whose value was going nowhere - about as sensible as getting cash
advances on your credit card whilst having a stack of banknotes under
the bed. And if GB was uniquely clueless, everyone else having a
crystal ball, then loads of people have every reason to be grateful
to him for giving them such an undeserved windfall.

--
Tony Bryer, 'Software to build on' from Greentram
www.superbeam.co.uk www.superbeam.com www.greentram.com

On Jul 31, 9:11�am, paulfoel wrote:
OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/
plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your
finger in.

What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?

Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or
two along to a solid piece of wall?

Whatever you do, do it properly. Only a few weeks ago a young child
died as a TV pulled out its mounting brackets and fell on her:-(

George

Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Gogs wrote:

Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php


Look interesting. Where do you get them in UK - the above website is
obviously American?
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152


Except that you can't subsequently remove and replace the bolt without the
toggle disappearing inside the cavity
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Gogs" wrote in message
...
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is
the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off
their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in
place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



I hope I never have to be in your place, toggles can't hold much at all.
The correct solution has already been given.. fill behind the board and use
screws long enough to reach the solid stuff behind.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Huge wrote:

On 2009-08-04, Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Look interesting. Where do you get them in UK - the above website is
obviously American?

Rawlplug make (or at least, made) these.

See here for an example;

http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acat...l_Fixings.html


None of those are quite the same.


(BTW, I used these for a TV, and the weight pulled the P/B off the
studs, so I would still advise you to fasten to the studding.)

Yes, it's worth remembering that any fixing to plasterboard is only as
strong as the plasterboard itself, and as its attachment to the studding.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
om...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the situation
requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the plaster
board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier than a
clock.

dennis@home wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
om...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the
plaster board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier
than a clock.

Even that would depend upon the type of clock.

Stuart Noble wrote:
Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud
is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to
rip off their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put
in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php



These are fine for most applications


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd1930/p44152

My favourite is these;
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...FIXING-_-12229

Aldi had a set of them with a fixing tool last week for a tenner.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Stuart Noble wrote:
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

Don't disagree with him, he'll have a conniption fit & start becoming
abusive.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

dennis@home wrote:


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
om...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the
plaster board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier
than a clock.


http://cavity-fixings.totalfixings.co.uk/

"A small 1/8" toggle can safely hold 50 lbs on 1/2" plasterboard... a
3/8" toggle over 100 lbs"

A tv arm may well merit stud fixing because of the in/out stress on the
fixing. Sheer strength would be ok I'm sure

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...

"A small 1/8" toggle can safely hold 50 lbs on 1/2" plasterboard... a 3/8"
toggle over 100 lbs"

Try it.
I expect that if he puts 50lb on his TV arm the board will just break.
If it doesn't break it is only held on by dabs and they don't have much
tensile strength and the board will part from the wall.




A tv arm may well merit stud fixing because of the in/out stress on the
fixing. Sheer strength would be ok I'm sure


The mechanical advantage of some arms I have seen is about 8:1.

Come on guys, did he not say a 15" LCD, not a 32" CRT

Quite often for a small bracket you can catch one stud but not
tother...

Therefore...a decent toggle which becomes part of the board is not a
bad idea.

Bear in mind there are not the usual rubbish toggles, use them and you
will get the idea, perfect for most things apart from Tanks of course!

Roger, Screwfix used to do boxes of 50 for around £12-£16, they don't
seem to stock them anymore.

B & Q did do packs of 2 complete with machine screw for stupid money,
usual with them though.

There are some UK sellers on eBay I think, however here is a site with
the boxes of 50

http://www.maintechmro.com/togglerA-snaptoggleA.html

On Aug 5, 8:09*am, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space
in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud
is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to
rip off their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put
in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

These are fine for most applications

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ixings/Spring+....

My favourite is these;http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...ngs/Hollow-Wal...

Aldi had a set of them with a fixing tool last week for a tenner.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Do you not find they can turn in the board, especially if have to take
something off the wall a few times?

I tried a few in the past and some seemed to go like that, that's why
stuck with the snaptoggles, mind I'm not in the trade so to speak

On Aug 4, 10:37*pm, "Clot" wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
. com...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the
plaster board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier
than a clock.

Even that would depend upon the type of clock.

So how would you explain me using the decent snaptoggles for a range
of things and nothing has ever came off the wall?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Gogs wrote:


There are some UK sellers on eBay I think, however here is a site with
the boxes of 50

http://www.maintechmro.com/togglerA-snaptoggleA.html


Useful link - thanks.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Gogs" wrote in message
...
Come on guys, did he not say a 15" LCD, not a 32" CRT

Quite often for a small bracket you can catch one stud but not
tother...

Therefore...a decent toggle which becomes part of the board is not a
bad idea.

Bear in mind there are not the usual rubbish toggles, use them and you
will get the idea, perfect for most things apart from Tanks of course!

The toggles aren't the problem, they can easily break the board.

The problem is the lack of strength in plasterboard.

Add the fact that the bottom of the bracket will be pushing the board into
the wall and the top pulling it out with a large mechanical advantage and
the problems multiply.

"Gogs" wrote in message
...
On Aug 4, 10:37 pm, "Clot" wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
. com...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the
plaster board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier
than a clock.

Even that would depend upon the type of clock.

So how would you explain me using the decent snaptoggles for a range
of things and nothing has ever came off the wall?

Luck, probably.

Gogs wrote:
On Aug 5, 8:09 am, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Gogs wrote:
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much
space in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.

I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units,
nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud
is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to
rip off their plasterboard etc.

So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put
in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

These are fine for most applications

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ixings/Spring+...

My favourite is
these;http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...ngs/Hollow-Wal...

Aldi had a set of them with a fixing tool last week for a tenner.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk- Hide quoted text
-

- Show quoted text -

Do you not find they can turn in the board, especially if have to take
something off the wall a few times?

Not found that. I do use the setting tool though. They have little spikes
to stop them turning anywho.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12429/...20TOOL-_-12429


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Aug 5, 6:47*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Gogs" wrote in message

...





On Aug 4, 10:37 pm, "Clot" wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
. com...
dennis@home wrote:

The correct solution has already been given.

There's no "correct" solution, headmaster. You use whatever the
situation requires.

There are several correct solutions and lots of incorrect ones, using
toggles is not in the correct solution camp, none that rely on the
plaster board for strength are.
Plaster board is not a structural material for anything much heavier
than a clock.

Even that would depend upon the type of clock.

So how would you explain me using the decent snaptoggles for a range
of things and nothing has ever came off the wall?

Luck, probably.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Luck in 3 different properties over a number of years.....luck?

Remember I'm not talking 42" Plasma...but then again I'm not talking
clock.

The fixing is a strong as the PB if not stronger, since it becomes
part of the PB, some toggles may be rubbish but you can put up heavier
items than a clock with the ones in question with absolutely no
worries