I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re-
attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related
to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt
moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate,
but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

On Wed, 1 Jul 2009 08:57:25 -0700 (PDT), mattm
had this to say:

I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re-
attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related
to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt
moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate,
but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

Check that the fixing plate isn't getting in the way of the lock and
preventing it 'seating' properly.

--
Frank Erskine

mattm wrote:
I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re-
attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related
to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt
moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate,
but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

If your lock is the type that allows you to rotate the key 360 deg to
deadlock the bolt, then you may have reassembled the lock with the
mechanism in the wrong position when you inserted the connecting bar.

Try taking the lock body off and moving the mechanism so that the arrow
marks line up before reassembling.

Alternatively, if you haven't cut the connecting bar short enough, it
might be fouling the mechanism inside the handle.

Finally, are you sure you used the correct set of holes for the screws
that hold the cylinder (barrel) in place? If the connecting bar is
presented to high or too low, it can foul the mechanism.

On 1 July, 17:20, Dave Osborne wrote:
mattm wrote:
I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re-
attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related
to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt
moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate,
but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

If your lock is the type that allows you to rotate the key 360 deg to
deadlock the bolt, then you may have reassembled the lock with the
mechanism in the wrong position when you inserted the connecting bar.

Try taking the lock body off and moving the mechanism so that the arrow
marks line up before reassembling.

Alternatively, if you haven't cut the connecting bar short enough, it
might be fouling the mechanism inside the handle.

Finally, are you sure you used the correct set of holes for the screws
that hold the cylinder (barrel) in place? If the connecting bar is
presented to high or too low, it can foul the mechanism.

If the bolt moves freely and fully when the door is open, can I assume
that the mechanism has been reassembled correctly. I moved rotate the
ring around where the bar fits so the arrows lined up before
reassembly? The bar protrudes by the same amount as that on the
previous cylinder. With the cylinder removed completed, the bolt still
meets some resistance in the keeper, so I suspect the issue is lock/
keeper alignment?

I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re-
attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related
to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt
moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate,
but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

Are you sure the door / doorframe hasn't simply warped in the
current heat-wave?

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

mattm wrote:
On 1 July, 17:20, Dave Osborne wrote:
mattm wrote:
I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance.

If the bolt moves freely and fully when the door is open, can I assume
that the mechanism has been reassembled correctly. I moved rotate the
ring around where the bar fits so the arrows lined up before
reassembly? The bar protrudes by the same amount as that on the
previous cylinder. With the cylinder removed completed, the bolt still
meets some resistance in the keeper, so I suspect the issue is lock/
keeper alignment?


If the bolt moves freely and fully with the door open then there can
only be two possible explanations.

Firstly, the lock wasn't fitted correctly before you changed the barrel
and worked better that way.

And secondly, something has happened to your door or door frame (weather
would be a good candidate) and the fact that you have changed the barrel
is a coincidence.

Other than that, it's difficult to diagnose at a distance. Can you post
some pics?

On 1 July, 19:09, Dave Osborne wrote:
mattm wrote:
On 1 July, 17:20, Dave Osborne wrote:
mattm wrote:
I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance.
If the bolt moves freely and fully when the door is open, can I assume
that the mechanism has been reassembled correctly. I moved rotate the
ring around where the bar fits so the arrows lined up before
reassembly? The bar protrudes by the same amount as that on the
previous cylinder. With the cylinder removed completed, the bolt still
meets some resistance in the keeper, so I suspect the issue is lock/
keeper alignment?

If the bolt moves freely and fully with the door open then there can
only be two possible explanations.

Firstly, the lock wasn't fitted correctly before you changed the barrel
and worked better that way.

And secondly, something has happened to your door or door frame (weather
would be a good candidate) and the fact that you have changed the barrel
is a coincidence.

Other than that, it's difficult to diagnose at a distance. Can you post
some pics?

The idea of a warped door/frame in the heat could be a good call and
certainly sounds plausible, and the cylinder change was indeed just
coincidental. I can't say I tested the action of the lock exhaustively
before replacing the cylinder. It's for a friend, so I'll wait to see
if gets any better when the temperature drops. Many thanks for the
advice and suggestions.

mattm wrote:
I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder
of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting
everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel
fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't
been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what
has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely
(with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and
re- attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's
related to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the
bolt moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the
rebate, but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any
ideas?

You do need a gap between the edge of the keeper & the bolt to allow the
curve on the bolt to start it moving - too close & it acts like a flat & not
a curve.

Worth having a look inside the lock, the bolt is attached to a rectangular
metal yoke which can go out of square. Also check that the spring is hooked
in properly.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk