Hi, please can I have tips for installing a door lining in a new brick
opening in a old uneven/sloping/unsquare/untrue/twisted wall.

My ideas are

1 Assemble the lining and then lay it on the door and try and brace it
to prevent twisting out of true as it is lifted into the opening, or

2 place the the door lining in the opening then lean the door against
the lining and then marking the location of the now 'aligned' lining
on the brick opening and fixing.

I will have a wooden brace temporarily fixed across the bottom of the
lining to keep the opening distance the same as the top of the lining.

Many thanks.

nafuk wrote:
Hi, please can I have tips for installing a door lining in a new brick
opening in a old uneven/sloping/unsquare/untrue/twisted wall.

My ideas are

1 Assemble the lining and then lay it on the door and try and brace it
to prevent twisting out of true as it is lifted into the opening, or

2 place the the door lining in the opening then lean the door against
the lining and then marking the location of the now 'aligned' lining
on the brick opening and fixing.

I will have a wooden brace temporarily fixed across the bottom of the
lining to keep the opening distance the same as the top of the lining.

Many thanks.

I'd treat it as a free standing thing with the brace across the bottom
to keep it square, and possibly some metal angle brackets across the
corners. Chop out the brickwork till it fits.
Although the opening is wonky, the woodwork should be straight and
square. It's a lot easier to fill or spray foam into the gaps than it is
to get wood to follow wonky surfaces.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
nafuk wrote:
Hi, please can I have tips for installing a door lining in a new brick
opening in a old uneven/sloping/unsquare/untrue/twisted wall.

My ideas are

1 Assemble the lining and then lay it on the door and try and brace it
to prevent twisting out of true as it is lifted into the opening, or

2 place the the door lining in the opening then lean the door against
the lining and then marking the location of the now 'aligned' lining
on the brick opening and fixing.

I will have a wooden brace temporarily fixed across the bottom of the
lining to keep the opening distance the same as the top of the lining.

Many thanks.

I'd treat it as a free standing thing with the brace across the bottom to
keep it square, and possibly some metal angle brackets across the corners.
Chop out the brickwork till it fits.
Although the opening is wonky, the woodwork should be straight and square.
It's a lot easier to fill or spray foam into the gaps than it is to get
wood to follow wonky surfaces.

Temporarily tack a batten across the bottom of the frame to keep sides
parallel. Put a drawing pin in each corner of the frame and run two pieces
of cotton or fine string diagonally. Put lining into gap and fix one side
dead vertical with a long spirit level or a plumb line. Adjust other side
until the two bits of cotton just touch where they cross over and fix the
other side to the wall. Guaranteed vertical and all in one plane.

Take your time over it - the door will never fit well if the frame is not
planar.

wrote:
Hi, please can I have tips for installing a door lining in a new brick
opening in a old uneven/sloping/unsquare/untrue/twisted wall.

My ideas are

1 Assemble the lining and then lay it on the door and try and brace it
to prevent twisting out of true as it is lifted into the opening, or

2 place the the door lining in the opening then lean the door against
the lining and then marking the location of the now 'aligned' lining
on the brick opening and fixing.

I will have a wooden brace temporarily fixed across the bottom of the
lining to keep the opening distance the same as the top of the lining.

Many thanks.

nafuk,

Firstly, is the new brick opening plumb and square, and are the walls to be
rendered and skimmed?

If the answer is yes, then the job is nice and easy and can be done as
follows:

1 Assemble the frame, making sure that the legs are parallel and then
tack a piece of batten across the two legs about 150mm or so up from the
bottom.

2 Square the head and the hanging leg either by using a long, true
set-square or use the 3, 4, 5 method (my preferred way) and then tack a
piece of batten at a 45 degree angle from the head to the hanging leg (to
maintain the square) and cut it off flush with the backs of the frame. You
can tack a piece of batten to the slamming side if you wish (omitting the
frame squaring as this has already been done) - although it's not really
necessary (and I don't do it). This now gives you a square and stable door
lining that you can handle pretty roughly if you wish when fitting.

3 Presuming that the lining has been made to fit the opening width-wise
(allowing an allowance for plumbing in the opening), measure the required
height of the lining (leaving a small allowance to level the head) and cut
off the hanging and slamming legs as necessary.

4 Fit the lining into the opening and plumb the hanging leg in two
directions and fix top and bottom, packing as necessary between the wall and
back of the leg to ensure a plumb and secure fixing (at this stage don't fix
the central part.

5 Level the head of the lining (wedging up the slamming leg if necessary
to maintain the level) and then plumb the slamming leg in two directions -
and again fix only the top and bottom, packing as necessary between the wall
and back of the leg to ensure a plumb and secure fixing (again, at this
stage don't fix the central part).

6 Check that the lining is still plumb and level and, using a long
straight edge (that will cover both top and bottom fixings) fix (at least
two fixings in the central part, and all equally spaced) and straighten both
legs - again using packing between the back of the legs and walls to
maintain 'straightness' and security of fitting.

7 Remove the battens from the frame and hang the door and you should have
a nicely square and plumb frame to which a door can easily be fitted -
especially if allowances have been made in the opening and lining design to
eliminate the cutting of the door to size - (as you haven't requested this,
I have not described the door hanging procedure.

8 Render and skim the walls flush with the lining edges and fit the
architrave's.

If the wall has already been rendered and skimmed then you'll have to adapt
steps 3 to 6 as needed by eyeing in (rather than plumbing the frame
(remember that steps 1 and 2 will maintain 'squareness'), possibly using
more fixings to try and hold everything correctly - and then 'fiddle' with
the architrave's to get a good fit - (these can be rebated over any 'bumps
in the wall to get them to 'sit' on the lining for a reasonably good
fixing).

The above is a reasonably comprehensive description of fitting a 'simple'
lining, but I am sure that you are aware that on-site conditions can make
this job a little more complicated and if you need more help, post back with
specific questions and I, or others, will attempt to answer them.

Hope this is of some help to you

Cash

On 29 June, 21:45, "Cash"
wrote:
*wrote:
Hi, please can I have tips for installing a door lining in a new brick
opening in a old uneven/sloping/unsquare/untrue/twisted wall.

My ideas are

1 Assemble the lining and then lay it on the door and try and brace it
to prevent twisting out of true as it is lifted into the opening, or

2 place the the door lining in the opening then lean the door against
the lining and then marking the location of the now 'aligned' lining
on the brick opening and fixing.

I will have a wooden brace temporarily fixed across the bottom of the
lining to keep the opening distance the same as the top of the lining.

Many thanks.

nafuk,

Firstly, is the new brick opening plumb and square, and are the walls to be
rendered and skimmed?

If the answer is yes, then the job is nice and easy and can be done as
follows:

1 * *Assemble the frame, making sure that the legs are parallel and then
tack a piece of batten across the two legs about 150mm or so up from the
bottom.

2 * *Square the head and the hanging leg either by using a long, true
set-square or use the 3, 4, 5 method (my preferred way) and then tack a
piece of batten at a 45 degree angle from the head to the hanging leg (to
maintain the square) and cut it off flush with the backs of the frame. *You
can tack a piece of batten to the slamming side if you wish (omitting the
frame squaring as this has already been done) - although it's not really
necessary (and I don't do it). *This now gives you a square and stable door
lining that you can handle pretty roughly if you wish when fitting.

3 * *Presuming that the lining has been made to fit the opening width-wise
(allowing an allowance for plumbing in the opening), measure the required
height of the lining (leaving a small allowance to level the head) and cut
off the hanging and slamming legs as necessary.

4 * *Fit the lining into the opening and plumb the hanging leg in two
directions and fix top and bottom, packing as necessary between the wall and
back of the leg to ensure a plumb and secure fixing (at this stage don't fix
the central part.

5 * *Level the head of the lining (wedging up the slamming leg if necessary
to maintain the level) and then plumb the slamming leg in two directions -
and again fix only the top and bottom, packing as necessary between the wall
and back of the leg to ensure a plumb and secure fixing (again, at this
stage don't fix the central part).

6 * *Check that the lining is still plumb and level and, using a long
straight edge (that will cover both top and bottom fixings) fix (at least
two fixings in the central part, and all equally spaced) and straighten both
legs - again using packing between the back of the legs and walls to
maintain 'straightness' and security of fitting.

7 * *Remove the battens from the frame and hang the door and you should have
a nicely square and plumb frame to which a door can easily be fitted -
especially if allowances have been made in the opening and lining design to
eliminate the cutting of the door to size - (as you haven't requested this,
I have not described the door hanging procedure.

8 * *Render and skim the walls flush with the lining edges and fit the
architrave's.

If the wall has already been rendered and skimmed then you'll have to adapt
steps 3 to 6 as needed by eyeing in (rather than plumbing the frame
(remember that steps 1 and 2 will maintain 'squareness'), possibly using
more fixings to try and hold everything correctly - and then 'fiddle' with
the architrave's to *get a good fit - (these can be rebated over any 'bumps
in the wall to get them to 'sit' on the lining for a reasonably good
fixing).

The above is a reasonably comprehensive description of fitting a 'simple'
lining, but I am sure that you are aware that on-site conditions can make
this job a little more complicated and if you need more help, post back with
specific questions and I, or others, will attempt to answer them.

Hope this is of some help to you

Cash

Thank you for all the replies. The job doesn't look so difficult now.
Cheers.