Hi,

Been tempted for some of my plumbing to consider copper tube + Tectite
fittings.

Screwfix have the newer Tectite "Sprint" range for quite reasonable prices.
Are there any disadvantages of "Sprint" over "Classic"?

eg it's a little unclear if "Sprint" can be demounted. Classic can.

I noticed the 30 year guarantee and the reasonable pricing - so for speed I
could see the merits.

I'm not using plastic pushfit due to worries about mice eating it (they eat
everything else here!) but copper with brass connectors would be fine.

Cheers

Tim

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 10:35:32 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Hi,

Been tempted for some of my plumbing to consider copper tube + Tectite
fittings.

Screwfix have the newer Tectite "Sprint" range for quite reasonable prices.
Are there any disadvantages of "Sprint" over "Classic"?

eg it's a little unclear if "Sprint" can be demounted. Classic can.

I noticed the 30 year guarantee and the reasonable pricing - so for speed I
could see the merits.

I'm not using plastic pushfit due to worries about mice eating it (they eat
everything else here!) but copper with brass connectors would be fine.

Cheers

Tim

The 1 review on an elbow on SF's site says:

"As far as I know the coupling can't be released so a carefully planned
pipe & fittings assembly sequence is most important."

I like the look of them.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

PeterC coughed up some electrons that declared:


The 1 review on an elbow on SF's site says:

"As far as I know the coupling can't be released so a carefully planned
pipe & fittings assembly sequence is most important."

I like the look of them.

I'll ring them - time for a definative answer...

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

PeterC coughed up some electrons that declared:


The 1 review on an elbow on SF's site says:

"As far as I know the coupling can't be released so a carefully planned
pipe & fittings assembly sequence is most important."

I like the look of them.

I'll ring them - time for a definative answer...


And the answer from Pegler is :

Sprint are absolutely not demountable - it's cut the pipe time.

Might be OK, but I'd like to find a supplier of Tectite classic for those
odd times it would be nice.

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

PeterC coughed up some electrons that declared:


The 1 review on an elbow on SF's site says:

"As far as I know the coupling can't be released so a carefully
planned pipe & fittings assembly sequence is most important."

I like the look of them.

I'll ring them - time for a definative answer...


And the answer from Pegler is :

Sprint are absolutely not demountable - it's cut the pipe time.

Might be OK, but I'd like to find a supplier of Tectite classic for those
odd times it would be nice.

Know I'm an old fart but I can't see the point of them - given the cost. I
can indeed see the point of push to fit plastic where speed and cost is
the only thing that matters - but not copper. Given that you're already
geared up to use end feed? Can't really see any advantage over compression
where you might want to disassemble later.

--
*Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

PeterC coughed up some electrons that declared:


The 1 review on an elbow on SF's site says:

"As far as I know the coupling can't be released so a carefully
planned pipe & fittings assembly sequence is most important."

I like the look of them.

I'll ring them - time for a definative answer...


And the answer from Pegler is :

Sprint are absolutely not demountable - it's cut the pipe time.

Might be OK, but I'd like to find a supplier of Tectite classic for those
odd times it would be nice.

Know I'm an old fart but I can't see the point of them - given the cost. I
can indeed see the point of push to fit plastic where speed and cost is
the only thing that matters - but not copper. Given that you're already
geared up to use end feed? Can't really see any advantage over compression
where you might want to disassemble later.


Only in the area of less testing/checking.

I tend to regard pushfit as OK as long as you shove it home and it was clean
to start with.

I do worry with compression and solder so tend to spent more time doing and
double checking. - it's not I can't do them (I can) it's just theres a
little more to go wrong in a dark and confined space.

Price wise - have you seen the price of Sprint? 80p for a coupler - not
breaking the bank and typically about twice the price of a decent end feed,
according to screwfix.

I was surprised - I was expecting 3 quid for a Tectite fitting of any
description.

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 17:12:53 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:



Know I'm an old fart but I can't see the point of them - given the cost.
I can indeed see the point of push to fit plastic where speed and cost
is the only thing that matters - but not copper. Given that you're
already geared up to use end feed? Can't really see any advantage over
compression where you might want to disassemble later.

Every sort of fiting has pros and cons.

To me the only one which is a solution looking for a problem is the
Yorkshire solder ring types.

For new dry work on copper the en(d)-feed is my choice. Except where
access or closeness to timber/paper etc. are issues.

On show wet pipes my choice would be tectite (or cupro fit) both of which
are less obtrusive than than compression.

Compression fits everything provided you can get to tighten the nuts.

Plastic push fit is bulky but can be easily demounted it is best used in
floor voids.




--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

Ed Sirett coughed up some electrons that declared:

On show wet pipes my choice would be tectite (or cupro fit) both of which
are less obtrusive than than compression.


I got a tectite sprint and a couple of cuprofit fittings from Screwfix
today.

The tectite is OK, but the cuprofit seems very good, mainly because it can
be demounted[1], the range is good and it's pretty solid when assembled.
Looks quite nice too, nicer than a compression fitting but less sleek than
an end feed solder joint...

Seems cheaper than JG Speedfit(!)

[1] It's not as easy to demount as JG, but it can at least be done...

Tempted, tempted...

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I got a tectite sprint and a couple of cuprofit fittings from Screwfix
today.

The tectite is OK, but the cuprofit seems very good, mainly because it
can be demounted[1], the range is good and it's pretty solid when
assembled. Looks quite nice too, nicer than a compression fitting but
less sleek than an end feed solder joint...

Seems cheaper than JG Speedfit(!)

[1] It's not as easy to demount as JG, but it can at least be done...

How often do you think you'll need to 'dismount' a connection? My
experience says virtually never - unless modifying things where it makes
no difference if it's compression or soldered.

--
*I believe five out of four people have trouble with fractions. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I got a tectite sprint and a couple of cuprofit fittings from Screwfix
today.

The tectite is OK, but the cuprofit seems very good, mainly because it
can be demounted[1], the range is good and it's pretty solid when
assembled. Looks quite nice too, nicer than a compression fitting but
less sleek than an end feed solder joint...

Seems cheaper than JG Speedfit(!)

[1] It's not as easy to demount as JG, but it can at least be done...

How often do you think you'll need to 'dismount' a connection? My
experience says virtually never - unless modifying things where it makes
no difference if it's compression or soldered.


Don't know Dave. I've dismounted and farted around with my temporary pipes
many times...

But - the price is pretty much the same, so the extra feature is free, so
why not. You never know... Wonder why Pegler didn't do the same - Cuprofit
is virtually the same basic design...

Anyway, I'm being open minded... If I decide I want to push fit copper, I
have a favourite now.

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
How often do you think you'll need to 'dismount' a connection? My
experience says virtually never - unless modifying things where it
makes no difference if it's compression or soldered.


Don't know Dave. I've dismounted and farted around with my temporary
pipes many times...

But presumably plastic if temporary?

But - the price is pretty much the same, so the extra feature is free,
so why not. You never know... Wonder why Pegler didn't do the same -
Cuprofit is virtually the same basic design...

I'm probably just suspicious of the technology. Given there are tried and
tested ways.

Anyway, I'm being open minded... If I decide I want to push fit copper, I
have a favourite now.

There is that.

--
*Middle age is when work is a lot less fun - and fun a lot more work.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
How often do you think you'll need to 'dismount' a connection? My
experience says virtually never - unless modifying things where it
makes no difference if it's compression or soldered.


Don't know Dave. I've dismounted and farted around with my temporary
pipes many times...

But presumably plastic if temporary?


Yes - JG Speedfit. Pressure tested to 10 bar too! The only two things that
put me off plastic are mice eating it (very possible where I am) and the
fighting to get it to look nice on long straight runs.

But - the price is pretty much the same, so the extra feature is free,
so why not. You never know... Wonder why Pegler didn't do the same -
Cuprofit is virtually the same basic design...

I'm probably just suspicious of the technology. Given there are tried and
tested ways.

That's fair enough. I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!). Soldering is OK - perhaps I
haven't done enough soldering to have full confidence in my work - most of
mine has been done in highly accessible locations or on the bench. However
that all worked, except where I turned on the water too soon with an end
feed stopend on the end of a still hot pipe and the resultant steam blew it
off (that episode made me slightly wary).

Push fit does seem to have the advantage that if the pipe is smooth and
pushed home fully (easy to check) then it's pretty much guaranteed to work.
The disadvantage is the fact that the joint is reliant on a little soft
o-ring which can't possibly to my mind last forever.

I guess the thing to do with any system is fill it with water then pressure
test it to 50% over working pressure. If that doesn't leak then the job's
probably good...


Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...

I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!).

"Quality" compression joints with a smear of decent compound do not weep.
Cheap fitting will. S/fix sell Conex now.

Push fit does seem to have the advantage that if the pipe is smooth and
pushed home fully (easy to check) then it's pretty much guaranteed to
work.

They are the most problematic of fittings and I would avoid them as failure
can be catastrophic. The plastic pipe is OK, when quality compression joints
are used.

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
That's fair enough. I usually find with compression that x % weep so I
have to run around and check everything, twice(!).

Are you using decent quality ones, and making sure the pipe is clean and
scratch free? Compression fittings are a pretty universal way of coupling
pipes carrying all sorts of things as well as water and shouldn't leak if
properly made and tightened.

Soldering is OK -
perhaps I haven't done enough soldering to have full confidence in my
work - most of mine has been done in highly accessible locations or on
the bench. However that all worked, except where I turned on the water
too soon with an end feed stopend on the end of a still hot pipe and the
resultant steam blew it off (that episode made me slightly wary).

Crikey. I've known this to make the fitting leak as the steam pushes past
the still soft solder - but not actually to blow off. ;-)

--
*What happens if you get scared half to death twice? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:


"Tim S" wrote in message
...

I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!).

"Quality" compression joints with a smear of decent compound do not weep.
Cheap fitting will. S/fix sell Conex now.

The joint in question was a Pegler and they ain't cheap! Unfortunately I
don't yet have any Boss Universal (and thus no suitable potable water jism
to apply). I did as you said on the gas pipe though (Boss White) and it
worked first time - yes I did test it, courtesy of Ed's FAQ + my gas
handbook.

It's more that I'm afraid to over tighten them (worse) so I under tighten
them thus then have to go round and check everything, retighten and check
again.

I have no problem with any of this except it takes extra time, so I'm open
minded on new technologies.

Push fit does seem to have the advantage that if the pipe is smooth and
pushed home fully (easy to check) then it's pretty much guaranteed to
work.

They are the most problematic of fittings and I would avoid them as
failure can be catastrophic. The plastic pipe is OK, when quality
compression joints are used.

That's because you used a hacksaw and then failed to de-burr (I used a
hacksaw on a couple early on but trimmed up with a knife and it worked for
me)- no we haven't forgotten the hacksaw incident! ;-

None of my JG has blown up, even at 10 bar test pressure and 7.5 service
pressure, pre PRV days. Despite forgetting to put the inserts in on the
first time I used the stuff - still held.

Surely your copy of Pipe and Combi Shagger's monthly has done an article on
Xpress crimp fittings - you should be extolling the virtue of them by now?

Cheers

Tim

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
That's fair enough. I usually find with compression that x % weep so I
have to run around and check everything, twice(!).

Are you using decent quality ones, and making sure the pipe is clean and
scratch free? Compression fittings are a pretty universal way of coupling
pipes carrying all sorts of things as well as water and shouldn't leak if
properly made and tightened.

Indeed, Pegler fitting and brand new copper. It didn't weep when I tightened
it up again - my point is not a complaint over compression, just that they
can take longer when you don't do it every day.

Soldering is OK -
perhaps I haven't done enough soldering to have full confidence in my
work - most of mine has been done in highly accessible locations or on
the bench. However that all worked, except where I turned on the water
too soon with an end feed stopend on the end of a still hot pipe and the
resultant steam blew it off (that episode made me slightly wary).

Crikey. I've known this to make the fitting leak as the steam pushes past
the still soft solder - but not actually to blow off. ;-)


Yep - 7.5 bar hitting instantaeously from this nearby 1/4 turn valve. Funny
thing is I reacted so fast I turne dthe valve off before much more than
steam came out!

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:


"Tim S" wrote in message
...

I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!).

"Quality" compression joints with a smear of decent compound do not weep.
Cheap fitting will. S/fix sell Conex now.

The joint in question was a Pegler and they ain't cheap! Unfortunately I
don't yet have any Boss Universal (and thus no suitable potable water jism
to apply). I did as you said on the gas pipe though (Boss White) and it
worked first time - yes I did test it, courtesy of Ed's FAQ + my gas
handbook.

It's more that I'm afraid to over tighten them (worse) so I under tighten
them thus then have to go round and check everything, retighten and check
again.

I have no problem with any of this except it takes extra time, so I'm open
minded on new technologies.

Push fit does seem to have the advantage that if the pipe is smooth and
pushed home fully (easy to check) then it's pretty much guaranteed to
work.

They are the most problematic of fittings and I would avoid them as
failure can be catastrophic. The plastic pipe is OK, when quality
compression joints are used.

That's because you used a hacksaw and then failed to de-burr (I used a
hacksaw on a couple early on but trimmed up with a knife and it worked for
me)- no we haven't forgotten the hacksaw incident! ;-

The failure was not due to a hack saw you ****ing amateur idiot. It was
fitting design failure.

None of my JG has blown up, even at
10 bar test pressure and 7.5 service
pressure, pre PRV days. Despite forgetting to put the inserts in on the
first time I used the stuff - still held.

I can give you counteless examples of failures of all makes.

Most pushfit is difficult to demount. A compression joint is much superior
to only relying on a very thin O ring - and cheaper. Even with expensive
plastic pipe or copper cutters the odd nick can be left on the pipe end and
the O ring can be nipped. Then the grab rings can fail and the fitting
shoots out leaving a full open end. Some of the grab rings corrode with
time if on the wet side of the O ring, again failing and catastrophic
failures. A compression joint is much more forgiving. No contest use
compression on plastic or copper instead of a pushfit fitting, which can
take some force to push on, especially in awkward locations.

Many in the trade have moved over to good quality compression joints when
using plastic pipes, completely disregarding and type of pushfit fitting..

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread....art=0&tstart=0
Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view. Whole estates that need re-piping and ceilings
getting full of water.

The archives of that forum is full of plastic push fit disasters reported by
pros. They tend to be catastrophic, like the fitting shooting off the pipe
and a full bore pouring out water under the floors. One thread had one
plumber attending a pushfit leak and the customer got him to price up
removing them all for compression.

I hope you have leaks. Lots of them. You deserve leaks. Big leaks. Leaks,
leaks, leaks, leaks!!!!!

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:


I hope you have leaks. Lots of them. You deserve leaks. Big leaks. Leaks,
leaks, leaks, leaks!!!!!


Blllrrrpppp!

On 24 June, 13:56, Tim S wrote:
Despite forgetting to put the inserts in on the
first time I used the stuff - still held.

I did that the first time I used them - on 10mm Hep2O that need to be
run, buried in plaster, to a bay window radiator.

Been in for years now, but I do keep expecting wet patches to appear. :
(


I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments - I just used a 15mm
Hep2O elbow that I had lying around for the mains feed to the cistern
in my cloakroom refit. The elbow is in the garage through so at least
it wouldn't do any damage in the house! Perhaps I should change it -
or at least wrap it up!

"Rory" wrote in message
...

I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments - I just used a 15mm
Hep2O elbow that I had lying around for the mains feed to the cistern
in my cloakroom refit. The elbow is in the garage through so at least
it wouldn't do any damage in the house! Perhaps I should change it -
or at least wrap it up!

On cold they are not too bad as they do not go soft with heat. The problem
is many: corroded grab rings, and when there is a water shock, slammed off,
they can jump off as the grab ring fails. I have known Hep2O jump off the
end of a pipe. read the link I gave. Not nice reading. That is just one
thread about the stuff. There are many if you search. I would remove and fit
a compresion joint using copper olives and wrapped in PTFE. If plastic pipe
keep the metal insert. It will cost a £1 or so and a 15 mins at most.

This sort of plastic piping is banned in the USA because of catastrophic
failures:

http://www.polybutylene.com/poly.html

Will the Pipes Fail?

While scientific evidence is scarce, it is believed that oxidants in the
public water supplies, such as chlorine, react with the polybutylene piping
and acetal fittings causing them to scale and flake and become brittle.
Micro-fractures result, and the basic structural integrity of the system is
reduced. Thus, the system becomes weak and may fail without warning causing
damage to the building structure and personal property. It is believed that
other factors may also contribute to the failure of polybutylene systems,
such as improper installation, but it is virtually impossible to detect
installation problems throughout an entire system.

Throughout the 1980's lawsuits were filed complaining of allegedly defective
manufacturing and defective installation causing hundreds of millions of
dollars in damages. Although the manufacturers have never admitted that poly
is defective, they have agreed to fund the Class Action settlement with an
initial and minimum amount of $950 million. You'll have to contact the
appropriate settlement claim company to find out if you qualify under this
settlement.

"A series of reports have suggested that increased use of choloramines
accelerates corrosion and degradation of some metals and elastomers common
to distribution plumbing and appurtenances.

With regard to elastomers, the study showed that with few exceptions,
solutions of chloramines (either monochloramine or dichloramine) produced
greater material swelling, deeper and more dense surface cracking, a more
rapid loss of elasticity, and greater loss of tensile strength than
equivalent concentrations of free chlorine."
----Steven Reiber, HDR Engineering, American Water Works Association
Research Foundation

Rory coughed up some electrons that declared:

On 24 June, 13:56, Tim S wrote:
Despite forgetting to put the inserts in on the
first time I used the stuff - still held.

I did that the first time I used them - on 10mm Hep2O that need to be
run, buried in plaster, to a bay window radiator.

Been in for years now, but I do keep expecting wet patches to appear. :
(


I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments -

Don't be. He had a bad experience once (google for hacksaw in this context).
And/or the medication wore off. Or his sister wouldn't date him anymore. I
don't know...

He comes out with some interesting product citations and insights from time
to time, but this isn't one of those times.

But we don't hate him - he's part of the furniture round here

Anyway, JG Speedfit, Tectite and Cuprofit all have the grab rings on the
outside, so corrosion should not be a problem.

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Rory coughed up some electrons that declared:

On 24 June, 13:56, Tim S wrote:
Despite forgetting to put the inserts in on the
first time I used the stuff - still held.

I did that the first time I used them - on 10mm Hep2O that need to be
run, buried in plaster, to a bay window radiator.

Been in for years now, but I do keep expecting wet patches to appear. :
(


I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments -

Don't be.

You need to have leaks!!! LEAKS! LEAKS! LEAKS!!!! You needs leaks.

Rory wrote:

I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments

To set Dr Drivel's comments in context, he has in the past made
complaints about pushfit. What he omits from his complaints is the
information that he ignored the maker's instructions and cut the pipe
with a hacksaw, failed to de-bur it, and then damaged the O-rings when
he assembled the joint.

He then blamed everyone except himself for the subsequent failure of the
joint.

He is the uk.d-i-y lunatic and it's best to ignore him. When someone
points out his failures he responds with abuse.

"Tim S" wrote in message
...

Anyway, JG Speedfit, Tectite and Cuprofit all have the grab rings on the
outside, so corrosion should not be a problem.

And the problem with these is.....they can be partially pushed on and the O
rings seals and grab ring does not grab. Then when pressure they shoot off
and a ceiling may come down. On site, fitters complain that they hard to
push on and all too often they are not full home, especially 12mm fittings.
I know no fitter who fits this stuff on sites, who say he would have it in
his own home.

LEAKS!! LEAKS!!!! LEAKS!!!! You needs leaks.

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:

You needs leaks.


I can haz leikz?

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:

On site, fitters complain that they hard
to push on and all too often they are not full home, especially 12mm
fittings.

Only a problem if installed by a thick hairy arsed dork then.

Ah - the problem becomes clear...

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:

You needs leaks.


I can haz leikz?


Fux dat, I wantz cheezburger!

Doctor Drivel wrote:

Then when pressure they shoot off

Everyone around thinks he's a total stranger
Everyone avoids him he's a complete danger
Turning Japanese
I think he's turning Japanese
I really think so.

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
That's because you used a hacksaw and then failed to de-burr (I used a
hacksaw on a couple early on but trimmed up with a knife and it worked
for me)- no we haven't forgotten the hacksaw incident! ;-

The failure was not due to a hack saw you ****ing amateur idiot. It was
fitting design failure.

A bad workman always blames the tools. But then you claim to be far more
than a workman. Lets just say a catalogue scanner. At best.

--
*Women like silent men; they think they're listening.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
Rory wrote:
I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments

You're right to be. He's just some oik who reads up on things but hasn't a
practical bone in his body. And when he's sitting at a table with the big
boys they feed him duff information as a wind up.

--
*A plateau is a high form of flattery*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
Rory wrote:

I'm a bit alarmed by some Dr Drivel's comments

To set Dr Drivel's

You an idiotic ****kicker who needs tagging.

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:

On site, fitters complain that they hard
to push on and all too often they are not full home, especially 12mm
fittings.

Only

You needs LEAKS!! LEAKS!!!! That is what you need!!! You will get them.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Then when pressure they shoot off

Everyone

You need tagging. You are a potential danger to children.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
That's because you used a hacksaw and then failed to de-burr (I used a
hacksaw on a couple early on but trimmed up with a knife and it worked
for me)- no we haven't forgotten the hacksaw incident! ;-

The failure was not due to a hack saw you ****ing amateur idiot. It was
fitting design failure.

A

Please eff off you a total plantpot.

Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:


"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Then when pressure they shoot off

Everyone

You need tagging. You are a potential danger to children.

You're a danger to yourself. That's why your walls have that special
padding.

On 24 June, 13:56, Tim S wrote:...

I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!).

The joint in question was a Pegler and they ain't cheap! Unfortunately I
don't yet have any Boss Universal (and thus no suitable potable water jism
to apply).

I generally put a few turns of ptfe where the olive is going to go,
then slide it into place and put a few turns over it, then push the
tube into the fitting. They don't need much more than nipping up and
don't weep. Fernox LSX is good as a sealant too and is OK for
drinking water.

In article
,
Rory wrote:
On 24 June, 13:56, Tim S wrote:...

I usually find with compression that x % weep so I have
to run around and check everything, twice(!).

The joint in question was a Pegler and they ain't cheap! Unfortunately
I don't yet have any Boss Universal (and thus no suitable potable
water jism to apply).

I generally put a few turns of ptfe where the olive is going to go,
then slide it into place and put a few turns over it, then push the
tube into the fitting. They don't need much more than nipping up and
don't weep. Fernox LSX is good as a sealant too and is OK for
drinking water.

Oh dear. Be prepared for the diy police to shout you down. But I do
exactly the same - a few turns of PTFE round the olive.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...


Oh dear. Be prepared for the diy police to shout you down. But I do
exactly the same - a few turns of PTFE round the olive.

If you tighten compression fittings correctly they seal without any sealer.
If you over do them they can weep.
If you don't do them enough they can weep.

The problem with putting sealer on them is you may not tighten them enough
but they don't weep until the joint pops later.

As long as you know this it doesn't matter which way you do it.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
Oh dear. Be prepared for the diy police to shout you down. But I do
exactly the same - a few turns of PTFE round the olive.

If you tighten compression fittings correctly they seal without any
sealer. If you over do them they can weep. If you don't do them enough
they can weep.

The problem with putting sealer on them is you may not tighten them
enough but they don't weep until the joint pops later.

As long as you know this it doesn't matter which way you do it.

Proper tightening is usually the key.

--
*I'm not as think as you drunk I am.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.