I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out damaging
it.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem which
sticks
out with ice?


Hmm intersting, a fire and ice solution???

"Colin Trunt" wrote in message
...
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?


Hmm intersting, a fire and ice solution???


This seems like it might be a 'real' use for WD40 !! :-)

Arfa

On Jun 16, 9:32*am, kimble wrote:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

As always excellent advice from Sheldon.

--
Nige Danton

I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:48:43 -0700 (PDT), RubberBiker wrote:

I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

Yes; had it been an ally post it might have helped.
My seat pins are always lightly greased and then removed, cleaned and
regreased every 3 - 4 years.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Rob

On 16 June, 08:22, Rob G wrote:
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:

I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. *It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. *Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Rob

And I then remembered that, in line with Sheldon's last
recommendation, there is also the UKDIY's all-encompassing solution of
the ANGLE GRINDER !!

In article ,
Rob G wrote:
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

However - A quick google shows it's still being made!

Gordon

Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,
Rob G wrote:
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice
Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.
The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

However - A quick google shows it's still being made!

Gordon

Might have changed a bit since I remember it about 40 years ago.

Colin Trunt wrote:
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.

The tyres take up a lot energy this way. In the past, when this seems
like a solution, plenty of penetrating oil, leave overnight, put a
wooden block under the BB, the hit it with a big ****off hammer.


Once it moves a millimeter *don't keep hitting it*, twist and pull. Oh,
and in case you've not noticed, it's Dogs way of telling you to grease
the post before reassembly

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:57:51 +0100, Invisible Man
had this to say:

Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,
Rob G wrote:
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice
Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.
The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

However - A quick google shows it's still being made!

Gordon

Might have changed a bit since I remember it about 40 years ago.

It seems to be much the same as before - except that it's now in a
naerosol can rather than a tin with a naluminium spout.

WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

--
Frank Erskine

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 07:51:18 +0000 (UTC), Gordon Henderson wrote:

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

No still avaialble and the best penetrating/easing stuff about. Much
better than paraffin, diesel or WD40. Of course if you havn't got any
I'd go for paraffin then diesel. Most people can probably get a few
drops of diesel easier than the other two, a few drops is all you
need.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 16 June, 08:51, Gordon Henderson wrote:

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -

Still around, still far better than WD-40 or paraffin/kerosene

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small evaluation
of various penetrating fluids for a particular project and I used to
have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most penetrating fluids
(including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted nuts on bolts, rusted
studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The most difficult aspect
of the tests was achieving consistency in the rust. As far as I can
remember some Astrolan liquid came top closely followed by WD40 and
then a variety of others including diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was
not recommended as if it was left it accelerated corrosion.

Quoting Colin Trunt :
I can't shift it, any ideas?
I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.

Put the saddle back on. It's a lot easier to break such a lock by rotating
the seatpost than by trying to hammer it up and down.

You might also try trickling lubricant or various break-loose potions into
the seat tube, but I've never had one stuck so hard that a really good
saddle twist wouldn't remove it.
--
David Damerell flcl?
Today is Second Gouday, June.

Quoting RubberBiker :
I just had another idea - ice
Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

You can do more with a heat gun (assuming the metals of frame and seatpost
don't render this obviously futile). Heat it up until the paint blisters
then stop two minutes ago. :-/

I've extracted stuck BBs with a combination of a heat gun, a 2 foot bar,
and a 100kg housemate.
--
David Damerell flcl?
Today is Second Gouday, June.

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 01:05:09 +0100
"Colin Trunt" wrote:

I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

Travel back in time 10 years and grease the seatpost.

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

That will do nothing to loosen it, and could damage the frame.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

You may find that heating the seatpost helps - it's certainly easier
than heating the frame, and less likely to cause damage. Just prop it
on the gas cooker and leave it until the paint starts to look a bit
worried. At this point I sometimes give it a good squirt of
WD40/GT85/whatever else I have to hand, but I'm not sure if that does
much apart from making smoke. Then clamp the seatpost up in a vice and
give it a good twist. If you don't have a meaty vice then Stilsons are
good too.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?

As others have already suggested, PlusGas is an excellent penetrating
lubricant. Apply, leave to soak for a day, try to shift the stuck bit.
Repeat as required. Stilsons are definitely the way to go here.

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small evaluation
of various penetrating fluids for a particular project and I used to
have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most penetrating fluids
(including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted nuts on bolts, rusted
studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The most difficult aspect
of the tests was achieving consistency in the rust. As far as I can
remember some Astrolan liquid came top closely followed by WD40 and
then a variety of others including diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was
not recommended as if it was left it accelerated corrosion.

Wise words from someone without prejudice or pre-conceptions. I have found
the same myself. The main problem with WD40 (and PlusGas) is that some are
under the mistaken belief they are lubricants. Penetrating, easing and
temporary squeak stoppers only.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...
"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small evaluation
of various penetrating fluids for a particular project and I used to
have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most penetrating fluids
(including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted nuts on bolts, rusted
studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The most difficult aspect
of the tests was achieving consistency in the rust. As far as I can
remember some Astrolan liquid came top closely followed by WD40 and
then a variety of others including diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was
not recommended as if it was left it accelerated corrosion.

Wise words from someone without prejudice or pre-conceptions. I have found
the same myself. The main problem with WD40 (and PlusGas) is that some are
under the mistaken belief they are lubricants. Penetrating, easing and
temporary squeak stoppers only.


--
Bob Mannix


It's amazing how many people think that WD40 is the very finest thing to
squirt liberally into their CD or DVD player, or cassette deck. As soon as
such an item gets onto my bench, and that unmistakable smell comes wafting
out, I gently sigh, and start writing out the paperwork saying "Sorry, BER
due to having been WD40'd ... "

Arfa

"Colin Trunt" wrote in message
...
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?


Hmm intersting, a fire and ice solution???


If all the suggestions above fail, I'd take the saddle off and place the
exposed stem in a vice so to crush and hold the top 1" or so. I'd then
twist the frame clockwise and then anticlockwise on the stem until it moved.
If that doesn't work it's a hacksaw job!

On Jun 16, 4:17*pm, "Fredxx" wrote:

If all the suggestions above fail, I'd take the saddle off and place the
exposed stem in a vice so to crush and hold the top 1" or so. *I'd then
twist the frame clockwise and then anticlockwise on the stem until it moved.
If that doesn't work it's a hacksaw job!

The above works best if you put a piece of wood in first to prvent the
post fomr being completely crushed. DAMHIKIJKOK?
--
Guy

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:51:33 -0700 (PDT), Just zis Guy, you know? wrote:

On Jun 16, 4:17*pm, "Fredxx" wrote:

If all the suggestions above fail, I'd take the saddle off and place the
exposed stem in a vice so to crush and hold the top 1" or so. *I'd then
twist the frame clockwise and then anticlockwise on the stem until it moved.
If that doesn't work it's a hacksaw job!

The above works best if you put a piece of wood in first to prvent the
post fomr being completely crushed. DAMHIKIJKOK?

A steel seat pin is so cheap that only the bottom bit needs preserving to
get the diameter - even then, I use shim on 1 of mine.
Any bike that 'merit's a steel pin can't be too posh.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:57:51 +0100, Invisible Man
had this to say:

Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article
,
Rob G wrote:
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice
Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at
most - the differential contraction of the metal isn't
significant.
The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil.
It is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or
lubrication material.

I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked
for at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

However - A quick google shows it's still being made!

Gordon

Might have changed a bit since I remember it about 40 years ago.

It seems to be much the same as before - except that it's now in a
naerosol can rather than a tin with a naluminium spout.

WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Oh yes it is! A good penetraing fluid I mean.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Bob Mannix wrote:
"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small
evaluation of various penetrating fluids for a particular project
and I used to have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most
penetrating fluids (including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted
nuts on bolts, rusted studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The
most difficult aspect of the tests was achieving consistency in
the rust. As far as I can remember some Astrolan liquid came top
closely followed by WD40 and then a variety of others including
diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was not recommended as if it was left
it accelerated corrosion.

Wise words from someone without prejudice or pre-conceptions. I have
found the same myself. The main problem with WD40 (and PlusGas) is
that some are under the mistaken belief they are lubricants.
Penetrating, easing and temporary squeak stoppers only.

WD40 is apretty good lubricant IME. Sold as "The world's number one
multi-purpose lubricant." Sue them if you don't believe them :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Colin Trunt" wrote in message
...
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?


Hmm intersting, a fire and ice solution???


OK I got it out!!!

I had tried WD40 earlier but it did not seem to make much difference
it was almost as if the saddle stem and frame were one piece of metal.

Another thing I did was to use a large pair of locking pylers

http://images.absoluteastronomy.com/...ing_pliers.jpg

to help 'distribute' the gap I made by wedging open the gap where the nut on
the top of the
stem is. Previously the side opposite the gap seemed to be firmly gripping
the stem
so by sort of pressing the gap closed again I could redistribute the 'gap'
around to that side.

I gave up on the ice idea because it is too impractical and it's hard to
make
stuff cold, I though a better idea would be to boil up a kettle ot water :O)

Anyway I boiled it up and with the bike on the ground I poured the boiling
water
slowly over the top of the frame stem. Problem is it runs away very
quickly......
so....I got a small rag (cheap dish washing rag and wrapped/tied it around
the
stem then poured boliing water over it. This seemed to keep the heat and
water
where I want as I found by hearly scaldinig myself touhing it so see if it
was hot :O)

Anway I put the bike back up and whacked the saddled stem a few times with
the
hammer and it did seem to shifting slightly so I sprayed soome more WD40
on the stem and gave it a few more whacks untill it went down futher, the
futher it
went the easier it got. Then back on with the saddle and it was not too much
trouble
to pull it out completely. A good time to give the stem a good cleaninig I
though.

I am not sure which worked best, I had WD40 in it over night, I expect
manipulating the
gap help but I reckon the boililng water on the stem helped a lot. Ovbiously
this
will also transfer some heat to the inner stem, but I assume dirt and rust
and air etc will
help prevent this somewhat. I know from replacing a CPU's heat sink you have
to use a special thermal compound to join the heat sink to the CPU to
because
heat transfer is pretty poor otherwise. I think getting the 'timing right
helps too'
if you leave it too long the inner stem will have more chance to warm up.

Anyway I am pleased with that as I though it would never shift, I had tried
shifting
it year ago I seem to remember. The good old stuck jam jar lid trick seem to
work it's wonders!!

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

"Colin Trunt" wrote in message
...
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?


Hmm intersting, a fire and ice solution???


This seems like it might be a 'real' use for WD40 !! :-)


I had tried that but it did not seem to help much, I am not sure if much
actually penetrated but I left it overnight which may have helped.

Arfa

"kimble" wrote in message
...
On 16/06/09 01:05, Colin Trunt wrote:
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html



Might help it that was updated with the careful use of boiling water ;O)


Kim.
--

"Rob G" wrote in message
...
On 16 June, 06:48, RubberBiker wrote:
I just had another idea - ice

Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

The cheapest and best 'penetrating' oil is paraffin, AKA CH oil. It
is the thinnest oil of the lot and will penetrate far better
correspondingly. Remember that WD40 was developed as a Water
Dispersal agent for protecting missiles, not a freeing or lubrication
material.

Yes I remembered WD40 was a water repellant too but it was all I had,
I normally have some 3 in 1 type oil, indeed I do have some....somewhere...
although it does seem 'thicker' than WD40 but that may be a deception.


I would somehow arrange the post in a manner that it can be soaked for
at least 24 hours in paraffin.

Rob

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small evaluation
of various penetrating fluids for a particular project and I used to
have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most penetrating fluids
(including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted nuts on bolts, rusted
studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The most difficult aspect
of the tests was achieving consistency in the rust. As far as I can
remember some Astrolan liquid came top closely followed by WD40 and
then a variety of others including diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was
not recommended as if it was left it accelerated corrosion.

Astrolan does not google very well. Spelling?

"David Damerell" wrote in message
...
Quoting RubberBiker :
I just had another idea - ice
Useless. You're only causing a 20 degree temperature change at most -
the differential contraction of the metal isn't significant.

You can do more with a heat gun (assuming the metals of frame and seatpost
don't render this obviously futile). Heat it up until the paint blisters
then stop two minutes ago. :-/


I didn't fancy ruining the paint work, anyway I found a kettle of boiling
water
poured on a bit of thin rag wrapped a few times around the stem
worked very nicely it gets the heat where you want it and holds it there
very nicely, and it's cheaper than a heat gun and easier to do!!




I've extracted stuck BBs with a combination of a heat gun, a 2 foot bar,
and a 100kg housemate.
--
David Damerell flcl?
Today is Second Gouday, June.

"Tosspot" wrote in message
...
Colin Trunt wrote:
I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.

The tyres take up a lot energy this way. In the past, when this seems
like a solution, plenty of penetrating oil, leave overnight, put a wooden
block under the BB, the hit it with a big ****off hammer.


Yes I realised that the types would do a fair bit of absorsion
but it was still clear that the 'whack' was being transmitted to the join
so I didn't bother with placing anything solid under the frame base.



Once it moves a millimeter *don't keep hitting it*, twist and pull. Oh,
and in case you've not noticed, it's Dogs way of telling you to grease the
post before reassembly

It seemed to ge looser the further down it went so I took the
oppertunity to get the oiled saddle shaft right down to get some
lubricant in there.
Don't think I acyually have any grease, oil and WD40 yes,
will have to get some ;O)

"David Damerell" wrote in message
news
Quoting Colin Trunt :
I can't shift it, any ideas?
I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.

Put the saddle back on. It's a lot easier to break such a lock by rotating
the seatpost than by trying to hammer it up and down.

You might also try trickling lubricant or various break-loose potions into
the seat tube, but I've never had one stuck so hard that a really good
saddle twist wouldn't remove it.


I could not twist it at all without some of the other remedies I used.
Also I have a broken ankle, out of the cast but still pretty weak
so it was no so easy to apply a huge ammount to force,
I didn't want to end up back in plaster again :O)


Actually the reason I wanted to lower to saddle was becasue of
my ankle so I could use the bike to get around a bit as opposed to
hobbilng around like, for want of a better word, a 'spaz'.

Walking at the monent is aout half speed at best and too much of it
seems to make it worse ATM.

Previously the saddle was so high I could just about touch the
ground with my tip of my toe on one foot, rather dangerous for
me the monent, so I have taken it down about 7 inches
altough that makes me feel rather hunched up riding.
It was also bloody hard getting onto the bike.
I will have to experiment a bit to find some sort of
happy medium, safe but rideable.


--
David Damerell flcl?
Today is Second Gouday, June.

In message et, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 07:51:18 +0000 (UTC), Gordon Henderson wrote:

Stuff I've used in the past (not for set posts but for rusty nuts)
is something called PlusGas. Not sure if you can get it now though -
it's probably full of harmfull chemistry...

No still avaialble and the best penetrating/easing stuff about. Much
better than paraffin, diesel or WD40. Of course if you havn't got any
I'd go for paraffin then diesel. Most people can probably get a few
drops of diesel easier than the other two, a few drops is all you
need.


So, Plus Gas mixed with KY Jelly must be the ultimate ubiquitous DIY
spray then ...

--
geoff

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
news:20090616151742.25bdae9e@bluemoon...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 01:05:09 +0100
"Colin Trunt" wrote:

I have a bike its old about 10 years slight rust (1%?) on
the stem which goes into frame.
I can't shift it, any ideas?

Travel back in time 10 years and grease the seatpost.

I took off the saddle and gave it a wack or two with a hammer
but no luck.
I have taken he bold out and tried to lever it opwn at the
'join' but it don't seem to make much difference.

That will do nothing to loosen it, and could damage the frame.

I was thinking heat but it will be hard to heat the frame with out
damaging it.

You may find that heating the seatpost helps - it's certainly easier
than heating the frame, and less likely to cause damage. Just prop it
on the gas cooker and leave it until the paint starts to look a bit
worried.

Heating the seat post will make it worse, sticking it into a bucket
of ice might help but boiling water on a rag wrapped around the
frame stem seemed to work well, it gets in plenty of heat and
does not damage the paint work!

At this point I sometimes give it a good squirt of
WD40/GT85/whatever else I have to hand, but I'm not sure if that does
much apart from making smoke. Then clamp the seatpost up in a vice and
give it a good twist. If you don't have a meaty vice then Stilsons are
good too.

I just had another idea - ice - maybe I can pack the part of the stem
which sticks
out with ice?

As others have already suggested, PlusGas is an excellent penetrating
lubricant. Apply, leave to soak for a day, try to shift the stuck bit.
Repeat as required. Stilsons are definitely the way to go here.

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 18:28:36 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

Frank Erskine wrote:

It seems to be much the same as before - except that it's now in a
naerosol can rather than a tin with a naluminium spout.

WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Oh yes it is! A good penetraing fluid I mean.

Clearly you've never used real penetrating fluid.

--
Frank Erskine

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
om...
Bob Mannix wrote:
"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:35:26 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:


WD-40 is quite useless as a penetrating fluid.

Actually it is quite good. Some years ago DERA did a small
evaluation of various penetrating fluids for a particular project
and I used to have a copy of the report. WD40 outperformed most
penetrating fluids (including Plus Gas). The test involved rusted
nuts on bolts, rusted studs and rusted pins in holes (all steel). The
most difficult aspect of the tests was achieving consistency in
the rust. As far as I can remember some Astrolan liquid came top
closely followed by WD40 and then a variety of others including
diesel fuel. Paraffin alone was not recommended as if it was left
it accelerated corrosion.

Wise words from someone without prejudice or pre-conceptions. I have
found the same myself. The main problem with WD40 (and PlusGas) is
that some are under the mistaken belief they are lubricants.
Penetrating, easing and temporary squeak stoppers only.

WD40 is apretty good lubricant IME. Sold as "The world's number one
multi-purpose lubricant." Sue them if you don't believe them :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



It certainly lubricates any rubber or frictional surfaces in cassette decks.
So well, in fact, that they will never ever ever work as intended again ...
!! :-)

Arfa

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Nige Danton
saying something like:

On Jun 16, 9:32*am, kimble wrote:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

As always excellent advice from Sheldon.

From beyond the grave. Damn shame, I always enjoyed reading his stuff.

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 23:36:25 +0100
"Colin Trunt" wrote:

Heating the seat post will make it worse, sticking it into a bucket
of ice might help but boiling water on a rag wrapped around the
frame stem seemed to work well, it gets in plenty of heat and
does not damage the paint work!

The idea of heating the seatpin is that you get thermal movement between
the seatpin and the frame tube - it doesn't matter that the seatpin is
expanding, all you're trying to do is crack the corrosion that's making
it stick, so you can get some penetrating oil in the gap.
I think in a previous discussion here it was concluded that ice and
boiling water don't really create enough of a temperature differential
to be useful.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "The Medway Handyman"
saying something like:

WD40 is apretty good lubricant IME.

gets out popcorn and bottle of Coke

Want some?

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
news:20090617035316.7bcc7c82@bluemoon...
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 23:36:25 +0100
"Colin Trunt" wrote:

Heating the seat post will make it worse, sticking it into a bucket
of ice might help but boiling water on a rag wrapped around the
frame stem seemed to work well, it gets in plenty of heat and
does not damage the paint work!

The idea of heating the seatpin is that you get thermal movement between
the seatpin and the frame tube - it doesn't matter that the seatpin is
expanding, all you're trying to do is crack the corrosion that's making
it stick, so you can get some penetrating oil in the gap.
I think in a previous discussion here it was concluded that ice and
boiling water don't really create enough of a temperature differential
to be useful.


Any temperature differential is useful.
I think boililng water will give a pretty good differential.
The outside of the frame will expand first pulling the inside out,
there is probaly not a great deal of contact betwen the frame and
the stem, even a bit of air is a good insulator as will be dirt and rust.

It works well with a jam jar even under a hot tap, the thermal
expansions of iron and glass are not too disimmiilar 8.5 against 11.

Anyway it seemed to do the trick here and I believe I have had
success loosen bolts with a similar method - basically heating
it with a blow lamp.

anyway it does seem to work, it may also 'melt' other stuff
whiich may be causing it to jam.


As I said I had tried freeing it before with no heat, dunno it I tried
oil too but it didn't work. When I hit it with the hammer it had a different
'ring' to it seeming to indicate it was not so 'welded' to the frame.