I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Appelation Controlee wrote:

I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Take a sample to a good wood shop who may be able to get some copied. I
did this last year fro some 1930's skirting board. £25 to make the
cutter, then £7.50/metre for the board, but it's the only way if you
want the same pattern.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

"Appelation Controlee" wrote in message
...

I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house
built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but
there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Good excuse to buy a router. You can make up most profiles with a
combination of cutters, or, if it is a common one, Trend may even have a
ready made cutter for your profile.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/

Colin Bignell

Appelation Controlee wrote:
I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Try one of the larger timber merchants, or a picture framer.

In article ,
Appelation Controlee wrote:
I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house
built 1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style. What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the
recessed panels. Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings
available in B&Q & elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than
thin decorative trims. What I want is something around 9mm upstand and
55mm wide (-ish), but there seems to be nothing close to what I want, or
even close enough to adapt. Anybody have suggestions?

That sounds extraordinarily wide for such a moulding - I've just put a
couple of doors back to how they should be here - Victorian house - after
a previous owner had put in glass. And the near exact moulding is in the
sheds. Which is approx 9 x 20mm.

As it happens I have a drawing of the door on this machine and have
increased the moulding width to 55mm, and it looks very strange - but
that's no help to you. ;-)

Architrave is about 55mm wide - but as you say too thick. But it's that
thick to allow the various curves to flow.

Could you use strip of the correct width and chamfer one edge then add a
'half round' strip to that? I'd say making a moulding that thin and wide
won't be easy, even for a workshop with a spindle moulder.

--
*Bigamy is having one wife too many - monogamy is the same

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 1 June, 07:37, Appelation Controlee wrote:

What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.

Decent timberyard who makes their own mouldings and has a shaper can
match anything. Costs depends on whether they have cutters in stock,
or if they have to grind something up. If they can do it on standard
tooling (nearly everything) then the cost is much the same as any off-
the-shelf mouldings. Bit more if you only want a foot of it.

On Jun 1, 7:37*am, Appelation Controlee wrote:
I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Are you sure that the original would have been that thin? If the marks
on the woodwork indicate something as wide as 55mm, it's quite likely
that the original was a bolection moulding that stuck out beyond the
surface of the door by 10mm or so. You can approximate that by using
dado rail and cutting a rebate in it so it laps over the join between
the door and the panel. Something like this with a 9mm rebate cut in
the back of the thick edge - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Dado-Softwoo...il/invt/162695

A

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 07:37:12 +0100, Appelation Controlee wrote:

I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?

Thanks for everyone's contributions - most helpful. It looks like it's time
to buy that router...

In article ,
Appelation Controlee wrote:
I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house
built 1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something
approximating authentic in style. What I can't find is timber moulding
to trim the recessed panels. Architrave moulding is too big, and the
trim mouldings available in B&Q & elsewhere locally are too thin,
being no more than thin decorative trims. What I want is something
around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but there seems to be nothing
close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt. Anybody have
suggestions?

Thanks for everyone's contributions - most helpful. It looks like it's
time to buy that router...

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one
- unless an expert says otherwise. I think you'd need to mount it in a
table so it becomes a sort of spindle moulder. And even then would be
tricky with wood this thin.

--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 2 June, 10:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one

Even in a table you're pretty limited in how deep a cut you can take
with a router or shaper, compared to a spindle moulder. Even assuming
a nice robust 1/2" table router of infinite stiffness (Natural
Philosopher made it out of stainless and brass), you still can't swing
a large cutter without either tearing or burning.

The problem is the proportionate difference in radius (and thus knife
speed), not the rigidity of the spindle. If your moulding needs 1"
depth on the knives, then that's 3× or 4× the knife edge speed between
inner and outer limits of a small router cutter, whilst it's only 20%
difference if the same profile is mounted on the rim of a big shaper
head. You can't set a cutter up for a good quality cut if one part of
it's running three times as fast as another.

On Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:01:23 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley wrote:

On 2 June, 10:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one

Even in a table you're pretty limited in how deep a cut you can take
with a router or shaper, compared to a spindle moulder. Even assuming
a nice robust 1/2" table router of infinite stiffness (Natural
Philosopher made it out of stainless and brass), you still can't swing
a large cutter without either tearing or burning.

The problem is the proportionate difference in radius (and thus knife
speed), not the rigidity of the spindle. If your moulding needs 1"
depth on the knives, then that's 3× or 4× the knife edge speed between
inner and outer limits of a small router cutter, whilst it's only 20%
difference if the same profile is mounted on the rim of a big shaper
head. You can't set a cutter up for a good quality cut if one part of
it's running three times as fast as another.

Interesting thought re the differential speed. could this be overcome by
taking successively deeper "bites"?

Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:01:23 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley wrote:

On 2 June, 10:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one
Even in a table you're pretty limited in how deep a cut you can take
with a router or shaper, compared to a spindle moulder. Even assuming
a nice robust 1/2" table router of infinite stiffness (Natural
Philosopher made it out of stainless and brass), you still can't swing
a large cutter without either tearing or burning.

The problem is the proportionate difference in radius (and thus knife
speed), not the rigidity of the spindle. If your moulding needs 1"
depth on the knives, then that's 3× or 4× the knife edge speed between
inner and outer limits of a small router cutter, whilst it's only 20%
difference if the same profile is mounted on the rim of a big shaper
head. You can't set a cutter up for a good quality cut if one part of
it's running three times as fast as another.

Interesting thought re the differential speed. could this be overcome by
taking successively deeper "bites"?

Don't go there. This type of profile is normally machined on 4 sides at
once, and doesn't really lend itself to d-i-y

In article ,
Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:01:23 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley wrote:

On 2 June, 10:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one

Even in a table you're pretty limited in how deep a cut you can take
with a router or shaper, compared to a spindle moulder. Even assuming
a nice robust 1/2" table router of infinite stiffness (Natural
Philosopher made it out of stainless and brass), you still can't swing
a large cutter without either tearing or burning.

The problem is the proportionate difference in radius (and thus knife
speed), not the rigidity of the spindle. If your moulding needs 1"
depth on the knives, then that's 3× or 4× the knife edge speed between
inner and outer limits of a small router cutter, whilst it's only 20%
difference if the same profile is mounted on the rim of a big shaper
head. You can't set a cutter up for a good quality cut if one part of
it's running three times as fast as another.

Interesting thought re the differential speed. could this be overcome by
taking successively deeper "bites"?

I'd *really* look at whether you could get what you want by using readily
available mouldings etc added together. Especially since you don't appear
to have experience of using a router.

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Appelation Controlee" wrote in message
...

I've removed a panel from the rear of our front door (original, house
built
1901), and want to reinstate the finish to something approximating
authentic in style.
What I can't find is timber moulding to trim the recessed panels.
Architrave moulding is too big, and the trim mouldings available in B&Q &
elsewhere locally are too thin, being no more than thin decorative trims.
What I want is something around 9mm upstand and 55mm wide (-ish), but
there
seems to be nothing close to what I want, or even close enough to adapt.
Anybody have suggestions?


most decent joinery companies would be able to make a copy for you.

On Tue, 02 Jun 2009 22:54:41 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:01:23 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley wrote:

On 2 June, 10:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'd say what you want to do would be near impossible with a hand held one

Even in a table you're pretty limited in how deep a cut you can take
with a router or shaper, compared to a spindle moulder. Even assuming
a nice robust 1/2" table router of infinite stiffness (Natural
Philosopher made it out of stainless and brass), you still can't swing
a large cutter without either tearing or burning.

The problem is the proportionate difference in radius (and thus knife
speed), not the rigidity of the spindle. If your moulding needs 1"
depth on the knives, then that's 3× or 4× the knife edge speed between
inner and outer limits of a small router cutter, whilst it's only 20%
difference if the same profile is mounted on the rim of a big shaper
head. You can't set a cutter up for a good quality cut if one part of
it's running three times as fast as another.

Interesting thought re the differential speed. could this be overcome by
taking successively deeper "bites"?

I'd *really* look at whether you could get what you want by using readily
available mouldings etc added together. Especially since you don't appear
to have experience of using a router.

Noted, thanks. :-)

In article ,
Appelation Controlee wrote:
I'd *really* look at whether you could get what you want by using
readily available mouldings etc added together. Especially since you
don't appear to have experience of using a router.

Noted, thanks. :-)

I'm not an experienced or skilled woodworker in the terms of many on here,
so can only tell things as I've found them - and that is a router works
fine on rigid timber which you can mount in a vice etc, but a different
matter on thin and flexible stuff.

--
*Why don't sheep shrink when it rains?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.