Can you still get these in the UK? Wolfcraft and others make them,
but I can't find an importer or a source. I really don't want to
have to find space for a bench grinder, especially as it won't be
appropriate for my primary task (sharpening gardening tools, such
as sickles and shears).

And the diddy little shaped grindstones are even less use :-(


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

wrote:
Can you still get these in the UK? Wolfcraft and others make them,
but I can't find an importer or a source. I really don't want to
have to find space for a bench grinder, especially as it won't be
appropriate for my primary task (sharpening gardening tools, such
as sickles and shears).

And the diddy little shaped grindstones are even less use :-(


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

A diddy grindstone in a die grinder gives you way higher linear speed
than a 4" wheel in a drill.


NT

In article ,
wrote:

A diddy grindstone in a die grinder gives you way higher linear speed
than a 4" wheel in a drill.

Yeah. So I should buy them by the hundred? They don't last long on
rough grinding of that nature.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 12 May, 11:03, wrote:
I really don't want to
have to find space for a bench grinder,

Angle grinder

Flap wheels in a range of grits (Hermes blue ones, and go for 40, 80,
120)

Decent vice to hold the workpiece.


This will do pretty much all the "fixed wheel" sharpening most people
need, most of the time. Next step from this is probably a geared-down
water-cooled wheel.

wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

A diddy grindstone in a die grinder gives you way higher linear speed
than a 4" wheel in a drill.

Yeah. So I should buy them by the hundred? They don't last long on
rough grinding of that nature.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

if youre doing a lot of rough grinding, why not an angle grinder? We
can only make useful suggestions if you tell us the situation.


NT

wrote in message
...

Can you still get these in the UK? Wolfcraft and others make them,
but I can't find an importer or a source. ....

Have you tried an industrial grinding stone supplier, probably listed under
grinding and polishing supplies? IME, you can get a very wide range of
wheels from stock and, if they don't meet your needs, I have had as few as
half a dozen wheels made to order by the Universal Grinding Wheel Co Ltd,
although they do have a minimum order charge for specials.

Colin Bignell

In article ,
wrote:

A diddy grindstone in a die grinder gives you way higher linear speed
than a 4" wheel in a drill.

Yeah. So I should buy them by the hundred? They don't last long on
rough grinding of that nature.


if youre doing a lot of rough grinding, why not an angle grinder? We
can only make useful suggestions if you tell us the situation.

I did, in my original post, which is the one you responded to. An
angle grinder is not suitable for sharpening shears, sickles and
similar implements. Nor is a bench grinder (or at least one with
guards).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
nightjar cpb@insert my surname here wrote:

Can you still get these in the UK? Wolfcraft and others make them,
but I can't find an importer or a source. ....

Have you tried an industrial grinding stone supplier, probably listed under
grinding and polishing supplies? IME, you can get a very wide range of
wheels from stock and, if they don't meet your needs, I have had as few as
half a dozen wheels made to order by the Universal Grinding Wheel Co Ltd,
although they do have a minimum order charge for specials.

Thanks. I will look that company up, but the solution sounds expensive.
What I am looking for is just the ordinary wheels that were available
in every DIY and hardware store until recently, and are still made and
sold as standard stock - just not in the UK :-(

I may have to order from Europe or the USA.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

wrote:
Can you still get these in the UK? Wolfcraft and others make them,
but I can't find an importer or a source. I really don't want to
have to find space for a bench grinder, especially as it won't be
appropriate for my primary task (sharpening gardening tools, such
as sickles and shears).

And the diddy little shaped grindstones are even less use :-(

You want a Dremel or similar. A small stone running at high speed will
remove metal without wearing itself out. The key is surface speed which is
ideally the same for all grinding wheels. Basically an inverse relationship
between diameter and rpm. The technical term is SFM (surface speed per
minute). I have professional cylinder head porting gear but then that's what
I do (did) for a living and a 1 inch diameter stone running at 15000 rpm
will sharpen anything to a razor edge with no discernable wear on itself. I
use mine on the shears, secateurs and lawnmower blades.

A bench grinder is not ideal as you say because it has too many bits in the
way for a long blade like a scythe. Even something as big as a 4" stone in a
normal drill is no use because the surface speed is too low. Dremels run at,
I think, up to about 30000 rpm so even a half inch stone will do a very good
job. An angle grinder is a bit rough for precision work although with care
you can sharpen stuff with one. A small stone in a high speed tool gives you
much more control though.
--
Dave Baker

In article , Dave Baker wrote:

You want a Dremel or similar. A small stone running at high speed will
remove metal without wearing itself out. The key is surface speed which is
ideally the same for all grinding wheels. Basically an inverse relationship
between diameter and rpm. The technical term is SFM (surface speed per
minute). I have professional cylinder head porting gear but then that's what
I do (did) for a living and a 1 inch diameter stone running at 15000 rpm
will sharpen anything to a razor edge with no discernable wear on itself. I
use mine on the shears, secateurs and lawnmower blades.

Thanks very much. I was hoping to avoid yet more clutter, but it
sounds as if the advance of modern technology has done for me :-(

By the look of their description, I shall have to buy something for
drill bits, too, which I used to sharpen by hand (not brilliantly,
but well enough).

A bench grinder is not ideal as you say because it has too many bits in the
way for a long blade like a scythe. Even something as big as a 4" stone in a
normal drill is no use because the surface speed is too low.

Oh, they work, all right. But they eat stones. Not a problem when
I don't do a huge amount, and 4" stones were easily available, but
that is no longer the case.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

wrote:
In article , Dave Baker wrote:

You want a Dremel or similar. A small stone running at high speed will
remove metal without wearing itself out. The key is surface speed which is
ideally the same for all grinding wheels. Basically an inverse relationship
between diameter and rpm. The technical term is SFM (surface speed per
minute). I have professional cylinder head porting gear but then that's what
I do (did) for a living and a 1 inch diameter stone running at 15000 rpm
will sharpen anything to a razor edge with no discernable wear on itself. I
use mine on the shears, secateurs and lawnmower blades.

Thanks very much. I was hoping to avoid yet more clutter, but it
sounds as if the advance of modern technology has done for me :-(

By the look of their description, I shall have to buy something for
drill bits, too, which I used to sharpen by hand (not brilliantly,
but well enough).

A bench grinder is not ideal as you say because it has too many bits in the
way for a long blade like a scythe. Even something as big as a 4" stone in a
normal drill is no use because the surface speed is too low.

Oh, they work, all right. But they eat stones. Not a problem when
I don't do a huge amount, and 4" stones were easily available, but
that is no longer the case.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

I do my drillbits with an angle grinder, they come up nicely. They
also drill wood far better due to changing the original angles, which
are good for steel but quite wrong for wood. A cutting disc is used to
get into the flutes, grinding discs being far too big.
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....e_twist_drills


NT

On 12 May, 19:07, wrote:
In article ,

.. *An
angle grinder is not suitable for sharpening shears, sickles and
similar implements. *Nor is a bench grinder (or at least one with
guards).

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Crap. You just don't know how to use one!

In article ,
wrote:

I do my drillbits with an angle grinder, they come up nicely. They

Hmm. How do you hold the angle grinder so that it doesn't shift?
I am not strong enough to hold even a drill motionless with a single
hand, so I put a foot on it. The problem about all of these solutions
is the space needed for something I don't spend a lot of time doing;
angle grinders and bench vices are not small, and I very rarely need
them.

also drill wood far better due to changing the original angles, which
are good for steel but quite wrong for wood. A cutting disc is used to
get into the flutes, grinding discs being far too big.
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....e_twist_drills

Yes, but this can also be done with a simple grinding wheel or bench
grinder. You can also clean the flute by using the bit (that's an
ancient trick, predating angle grinders).




Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

I do my drillbits with an angle grinder, they come up nicely. They

Hmm. How do you hold the angle grinder so that it doesn't shift?
I am not strong enough to hold even a drill motionless with a single
hand, so I put a foot on it.

I put it on its back and hold with one hand. I expect you could use a
foot, but I wouldnt be confident doing that. You might also use a
bench vise with a rubber wrap or an angle grinder stand.


The problem about all of these solutions
is the space needed for something I don't spend a lot of time doing;
angle grinders and bench vices are not small, and I very rarely need
them.

indeed


also drill wood far better due to changing the original angles, which
are good for steel but quite wrong for wood. A cutting disc is used to
get into the flutes, grinding discs being far too big.
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....e_twist_drills

Yes, but this can also be done with a simple grinding wheel or bench
grinder. You can also clean the flute by using the bit (that's an
ancient trick, predating angle grinders).

I dont see how either of those would get far eough into the flute to
grind away most of the solid centre section where it meets the tip.
Even a grinding disc in an angle grinder cant do that.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.


NT

In article ,
wrote:

Hmm. How do you hold the angle grinder so that it doesn't shift?
I am not strong enough to hold even a drill motionless with a single
hand, so I put a foot on it.

I put it on its back and hold with one hand. I expect you could use a
foot, but I wouldnt be confident doing that. You might also use a
bench vise with a rubber wrap or an angle grinder stand.

I am not strong enough in the wrist to do that reliably, and a bench
vice brings in the space problems.

also drill wood far better due to changing the original angles, which
are good for steel but quite wrong for wood. A cutting disc is used to
get into the flutes, grinding discs being far too big.
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....e_twist_drills

Yes, but this can also be done with a simple grinding wheel or bench
grinder. You can also clean the flute by using the bit (that's an
ancient trick, predating angle grinders).

I dont see how either of those would get far eough into the flute to
grind away most of the solid centre section where it meets the tip.
Even a grinding disc in an angle grinder cant do that.

Oh, right - but that's much more than just changing the angles and
cleaning off the burrs - it's changing the shape of the point. No,
I don't do that.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.