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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Soldering problem
In article ,
Dave Osborne wrote: [gigantic snip] === Comments & flames (no pun intended!) welcome. Cheers, Rumble Almost a wiki in itself. But I still don't get the 'swirly/cyclone' bit John -- John Mulrooney NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while. Glass, china and reputations are easily cracked, but never well mended. |
#42
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Soldering problem
JTM wrote:
Still the case at Leclerc and Mr Bricolage, but moving more towards PER (Poly Ethylene Raccord - I think) mostly 12 & 16mm and screw on fittings. Oh, and still selling imperial sized connectors as well. Good fun You aren't kidding! It took me two hours at bricomarche working out which fittings / sizes etc I need. As for the range of stop taps Jesus H Christ! Especially since I am joining what I think is a 3/4 male through to 16 mm stop taps etc. Blooming nightmare. Literally hundreds of different fittings to choose from. -- David in Normandy. |
#43
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Soldering problem
JTM wrote:
In article , Dave Osborne wrote: [gigantic snip] === Comments & flames (no pun intended!) welcome. Cheers, Rumble Almost a wiki in itself. But I still don't get the 'swirly/cyclone' bit John OK, with a conventional burner, when you offer up the blow-lamp to a cylindrical pipe, the flame front is bifurcated. If you think of (say) a horizontal pipe as having 4 "sides" (i.e. top, bottom, front, back) and you're applying the blow-lamp to the front, then the front gets the brunt of the heat, the top and bottom somewhat less and the back less still. A swirly/cyclone burner applies a cyclonic effect to the gases which make up the flame and when you apply the heat to the front of the pipe (in the example above), the flame wraps around the pipe heating it pretty evenly all-round. This means that you don't have to wave the lamp about to heat the pipe evenly. see here for pictures: http://www.lister.co.uk/Uploads/prod...sievertcat.pdf Page 10 |
#44
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Soldering problem
In article ,
Dave Osborne wrote: OK, with a conventional burner, when you offer up the blow-lamp to a cylindrical pipe, the flame front is bifurcated. If you think of (say) a horizontal pipe as having 4 "sides" (i.e. top, bottom, front, back) and you're applying the blow-lamp to the front, then the front gets the brunt of the heat, the top and bottom somewhat less and the back less still. A swirly/cyclone burner applies a cyclonic effect to the gases which make up the flame and when you apply the heat to the front of the pipe (in the example above), the flame wraps around the pipe heating it pretty evenly all-round. This means that you don't have to wave the lamp about to heat the pipe evenly. see here for pictures: http://www.lister.co.uk/Uploads/prod...sievertcat.pdf Page 10 Thanks for the link. The range of stuff for the pro just boggles my mind. I know I'd never use them, but I'd like to have /afford some of them John -- John Mulrooney NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while. I used to have an open mind but my brains kept falling out |
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