Any suggestions?

coughed up some electrons that declared:

Any suggestions?

I used a strong eye-hook (about 15mm dia eye) in both the back of the
bookcase, and into the wall, then a d-link (screwable chain link) all from
B&Q. The d-link could have been a piece of stout string or rope.

The other option is a piece of webbing strap, doubled over at the end and
screwed through, with a cup washer into the wall, and do the same into the
top of the bookcase. That's typically all the manufacturer supplied ones
are.

So, about 5 quid or less, and you should find enough bits to make what you
need in B&Q. Start with the section that sells rope and chain, and also the
section that sells screws and eye hooks.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

coughed up some electrons that declared:

Any suggestions?

I used a strong eye-hook (about 15mm dia eye) in both the back of the
bookcase, and into the wall, then a d-link (screwable chain link) all from
B&Q. The d-link could have been a piece of stout string or rope.

The other option is a piece of webbing strap, doubled over at the end and
screwed through, with a cup washer into the wall, and do the same into the
top of the bookcase. That's typically all the manufacturer supplied ones
are.

So, about 5 quid or less, and you should find enough bits to make what you
need in B&Q. Start with the section that sells rope and chain, and also
the section that sells screws and eye hooks.

Cheers

Tim

The other option, which I've also done, is simply to put a long screw
through the back of the bookcase into the wall. The screw does not have to
pull the case tight to the wall - it simply has to hold.

One 2" screw and a wallplug - probably 1 quid even if you have to buy a
pack.

Cheers

Tim

On Sun, 5 Apr 2009 01:41:01 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Any suggestions?

Does it have a flimsy back panel or a sturdy back panel? Are there
strengthening gussets in the top corners? Is this a backless bookcase?

I do wish people would give the whole story. It's difficult to make
sensible suggestions without knowing.



--
The Wanderer

Statistics show that statistics can't be trusted.

On 5 Apr, 10:08, The Wanderer wrote:
On Sun, 5 Apr 2009 01:41:01 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
Any suggestions?

Does it have a flimsy back panel or a sturdy back panel? Are there
strengthening gussets in the top corners? Is this a backless bookcase?

I do wish people would give the whole story. It's difficult to make
sensible suggestions without knowing.

--
The Wanderer

Statistics show that statistics can't be trusted.

its quite solid, the back panel is tongue and groove. no gussets in
top corners but still very solid.

wrote:

Any suggestions?

Put your message in the body rather than the subject.

In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

wrote:
Any suggestions?

I must have half a dozen in my 'useful bits' box left over from IKEA
wardrobes. I don't use them often, I prefer to use a small bracket centre
top - cant be seen.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

That is what I did for a corner cabinet used to display crockery. It is very
effective.

Colin Bignell

On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 09:56:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

One 2" screw and a wallplug - probably 1 quid even if you have to buy
a pack.

When was the last time you bought any packs of screws in a shed? £5 for
screws and plugs might be pushing it... Certinly £1 for a pack of 2"
screws...

Anyway I wouldn't trust a single 2" screw with may be only an 1" of that
in the wall (thickness of bookcase and gap taking the other inch) and 1/2"
of plaster so only the 1/2" tip of the screw standing any chance of
holding much pull. Remember we are talking tension here, not shear which
is the force most fixing screws are under.

Probably fine just to steady the bookcase case but not if little Johnny
decides those nicely spaced shelves make an ideal ladder...

The folded over webbing strap with a good firm fixing into real wall (not
plaster or plasterboard) is the better method IMHO. Hook eyes generally
don't have a long enough thread to fix into a wall securely.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 11:28:19 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 09:56:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

One 2" screw and a wallplug - probably 1 quid even if you have to buy
a pack.

When was the last time you bought any packs of screws in a shed? £5 for
screws and plugs might be pushing it... Certinly £1 for a pack of 2"
screws...

Anyway I wouldn't trust a single 2" screw with may be only an 1" of that
in the wall (thickness of bookcase and gap taking the other inch) and 1/2"
of plaster so only the 1/2" tip of the screw standing any chance of
holding much pull. Remember we are talking tension here, not shear which
is the force most fixing screws are under.

Probably fine just to steady the bookcase case but not if little Johnny
decides those nicely spaced shelves make an ideal ladder...

Nail little Johnnies feet to the floor, far more effective. Saves
having to secure just about every item in the house, as well.



The folded over webbing strap with a good firm fixing into real wall (not
plaster or plasterboard) is the better method IMHO. Hook eyes generally
don't have a long enough thread to fix into a wall securely.

wrote in message
...
Any suggestions?

I use T hinges.
Screw the short bit to the wall and the long bit to the top of the bookcase.

Dave Liquorice coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 09:56:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

One 2" screw and a wallplug - probably 1 quid even if you have to buy
a pack.

When was the last time you bought any packs of screws in a shed? £5 for
screws and plugs might be pushing it... Certinly £1 for a pack of 2"
screws...

No idea Dave, I try not to buy screws in a shed these days - but for an odd
job...

Anyway I wouldn't trust a single 2" screw with may be only an 1" of that
in the wall (thickness of bookcase and gap taking the other inch) and 1/2"
of plaster so only the 1/2" tip of the screw standing any chance of
holding much pull. Remember we are talking tension here, not shear which
is the force most fixing screws are under.

Probably fine just to steady the bookcase case but not if little Johnny
decides those nicely spaced shelves make an ideal ladder...

OK - fair enough. Apply common sense to job in hand...

The folded over webbing strap with a good firm fixing into real wall (not
plaster or plasterboard) is the better method IMHO. Hook eyes generally
don't have a long enough thread to fix into a wall securely.


I used some substantially heavy duty eyes - about 1.5" long, very thick
metal and you will *not* pull them out of the wall easily - thread looks
well on the way to a No 10 screw. Think they came from B&Q.

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

What sort of mirror hanger Tim?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 21:26:46 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

What sort of mirror hanger Tim?

This type of thing, presumably:-

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/s...r-plate-eb.asp

--
Frank Erskine

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

What sort of mirror hanger Tim?

Is there more than one?:-)

I don't have a url to hand but they are normally T shaped in flat brass
or plated steel with two holes for attaching to the rear of the mirror
frame and a third hole for fixing to the wall.

Our experience was the shower of Waterford crystal as our eldest pulled
the corner display cabinet over on top of herself. Luckily no injuries
although she seemed a bit surprised.

regards



--
Tim Lamb

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Sun, 05 Apr 2009 21:26:46 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

What sort of mirror hanger Tim?

This type of thing, presumably:-

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/s...r-plate-eb.asp

That's the job.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On Apr 5, 9:41*am, wrote:
Any suggestions?

Ikea supply them with nearly all of their wardrobes. Short length of
tough material to be screwed into the top of the bookcase / wardrobe,
with an eye and washer supplied for attaching to the wall. Usually
sufficiently long enough to accommodate furniture that leans forward
slightly away from the wall due to carpet grippers around the edge,
and the gap due to the skirting boards.

Perhaps you could give them a call and see if they'd post one FOC as
"your pack didn't contain one"?!?

Matt

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
writes
Any suggestions?

Screw mirror hangers to the back and *rawlplug* to the wall.

What sort of mirror hanger Tim?

Is there more than one?:-)

Yes :-)

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;js...+fixings--Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

wrote:
On Apr 5, 9:41 am, wrote:
Any suggestions?

Ikea supply them with nearly all of their wardrobes. Short length of
tough material to be screwed into the top of the bookcase / wardrobe,
with an eye and washer supplied for attaching to the wall. Usually
sufficiently long enough to accommodate furniture that leans forward
slightly away from the wall due to carpet grippers around the edge,
and the gap due to the skirting boards.

Perhaps you could give them a call and see if they'd post one FOC as
"your pack didn't contain one"?!?

If the OP wants one I've got half a dozen in my 'bits' box. I'll post it if
req.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

If you don't want to drill holes - another thing you could do is to
simply put something under the front end of the bookshelf. This will
cause the shelf to lean slightly back against the wall. Then if the
toddler does crawl up it, the whole weight of the shelve is still
working against him. Not too much - you don't want it to slide down the
wall either.


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

The message

from contains these words:

Any suggestions?

I use angle brackets, with one leg cut down if necessary. Otherwise use
builder's band.