Hi all

I intend to run a new feed to my kitchen hot tap as the existing one takes a
tortuous route, takes ages to run hot and has low flow when it finally
arrives. The new feed will come from above and be chased in/platered over
until the run is below worktop level.
So the idea was to run plastic pipe inside plastic conduit, the conduit
being plastered in just enough to give a plaster skim cover.
Are there any gotchas here - tiles falling off hot walls, recommended depth
of chase etc.?

TIA

Phil

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all

I intend to run a new feed to my kitchen hot tap as the existing one takes
a tortuous route, takes ages to run hot and has low flow when it finally
arrives. The new feed will come from above and be chased in/platered over
until the run is below worktop level.
So the idea was to run plastic pipe inside plastic conduit, the conduit
being plastered in just enough to give a plaster skim cover.
Are there any gotchas here - tiles falling off hot walls, recommended
depth of chase etc.?

TIA

Phil


It sounds fine. The drops to my radiators are done like that.

Just remember where the pipe is though. My first job this morning resulted
in me drilling through a hot water pipe that ran horizontally just behind
the plaster! Copper pipe just below the plaster skim.

Adam

On 24 Feb, 16:42, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

I intend to run a new feed to my kitchen hot tap as the existing one takes a
tortuous route, takes ages to run hot and has low flow when it finally
arrives. *The new feed will come from above and be chased in/platered over
until the run is below worktop level.
So the idea was to run plastic pipe inside plastic conduit, the conduit
being plastered in just enough to give a plaster skim cover.
Are there any gotchas here - tiles falling off hot walls, recommended depth
of chase etc.?

TIA

Phil

If you can insulate the pipes in any way, the water will stay hot &
the wall not....

"Phil" wrote

"If you can insulate the pipes in any way, the water will stay hot &
the wall not...."

Nice idea Phil, but this will mean chopping a significantly larger channel.
I am reluctant to do this, as the route passes close(ish) to a window
opening.

Having said that, I have some offcuts of heat resistant matting only about
2mm thick (used to put on the dining table under the table cloth for
protection) - should be able to make room for that.

Good call

Phil

On 25 Feb, 12:02, "TheScullster" wrote:
Having said that, I have some offcuts of heat resistant matting only about
2mm thick (used to put on the dining table under the table cloth for
protection) - should be able to make room for that.

Good call

Phil


I seem to remember that in A-level Physics we showed that adding
insufficient insulation to a pipe can actually increase heat loss
[1]...Though that was for a pipe surrounded by air. I wouldn't care to
calculate how surrounding it by some plaster/air/breeze block modifies
things....

[1] I forget why, but there's a reference to it at
http://www.cheresources.com/insulationzz.shtml under

"Airsource Ltd" wrote


I seem to remember that in A-level Physics we showed that adding
insufficient insulation to a pipe can actually increase heat loss
[1]...Though that was for a pipe surrounded by air. I wouldn't care to
calculate how surrounding it by some plaster/air/breeze block modifies
things....

[1] I forget why, but there's a reference to it at
http://www.cheresources.com/insulationzz.shtml under



The intention is to put the insulation on the outside of the conduit sleeve,
so the pipe will be surrounded by a small air gap, then the conduit, then
the insulation - should improve things, stopping the heat dissipating into
the wall coverings.

Phil

TheScullster wrote:
"Phil" wrote

"If you can insulate the pipes in any way, the water will stay hot &
the wall not...."

Nice idea Phil, but this will mean chopping a significantly larger channel.
I am reluctant to do this, as the route passes close(ish) to a window
opening.

Having said that, I have some offcuts of heat resistant matting only about
2mm thick (used to put on the dining table under the table cloth for
protection) - should be able to make room for that.

Good call

Phil


with copper, even a few mm of styrene or depron will make a huge
difference. And even with plastic barrier type pipe.

Since plastic in screed is what my UFH does, I can assure you its a
pretty poor way to transfer heat! Even with 100m of pipe the water going
in at 50C is hard put to come out much less than 40C!!!

So I would not worry at all. Plastic in conduit sounds pretty good.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote

with copper, even a few mm of styrene or depron will make a huge
difference. And even with plastic barrier type pipe.

Since plastic in screed is what my UFH does, I can assure you its a pretty
poor way to transfer heat! Even with 100m of pipe the water going in at
50C is hard put to come out much less than 40C!!!

So I would not worry at all. Plastic in conduit sounds pretty good.

Thanks NP
I was thinking maybe I couldn't be bothered messing with the insulation -
see how the job goes tonight.
I suppose if the wall does get a bit warm, it's a good reminder that the
pipe's there for future.
Amazing how quickly you (or at least I) forget exactly where things are
routed etc.

Phil