I'd like too drline the walls of my 1850's 9" solid brick wall house,
mainly for cost and convenience. I've looked at the spec on the Kingspan
pages and they mention the dot and dab method for cavity walls but not
solid. For solid walls they describe fixing to a frame.

Is dot and dab on solid brick walls not reccommneded?

Thank you,
Neil

"Niel A. Farrow" wrote in message
...


I'd like too drline the walls of my 1850's 9" solid brick wall house,
mainly for cost and convenience. I've looked at the spec on the Kingspan
pages and they mention the dot and dab method for cavity walls but not
solid. For solid walls they describe fixing to a frame.

Is dot and dab on solid brick walls not reccommneded?

Thank you,
Neil

With the dob and stick method you're literally making the plasterboard part
of the wall again, which is not what you want to do if you want to insulate
it. To make any kind of insulation you need a space in between to create an
air gap that holds the heat in. The gap can be filled with material that
helps this happen.


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(Niel A. Farrow) wrote in message ...
I'd like too drline the walls of my 1850's 9" solid brick wall house,
mainly for cost and convenience. I've looked at the spec on the Kingspan
pages and they mention the dot and dab method for cavity walls but not
solid. For solid walls they describe fixing to a frame.

Is dot and dab on solid brick walls not reccommneded?


I live in an old cottage - solid walls - probably more than 9".
Current plasterboard fixed to a frame but needs to be replaced.
Builder recommended removing existing plasterboard and frame, making
good (and level) the walls with a sand and cement plaster and then
using dot and dab to line with plasterboard. He recommended using
insulated plasterboard (i.e. plasterboard damp proof membrane and 1-2
inches of insulation bonded to it.

Job not started yet, but thats the plan

Hope this helps

Frank.

In article ,
BigWallop wrote:

"Niel A. Farrow" wrote in message
...


I'd like too drline the walls of my 1850's 9" solid brick wall house,
mainly for cost and convenience. I've looked at the spec on the Kingspan
pages and they mention the dot and dab method for cavity walls but not
solid. For solid walls they describe fixing to a frame.

Is dot and dab on solid brick walls not reccommneded?

Thank you,
Neil

With the dob and stick method you're literally making the plasterboard part
of the wall again, which is not what you want to do if you want to insulate
it. To make any kind of insulation you need a space in between to create an
air gap that holds the heat in. The gap can be filled with material that
helps this happen.

even for insulated plasterboard? Even for regular plasterboard there will
be a gap with dot and dab, unless you really skimp on the adhesive.
Neil

"Niel A. Farrow" wrote in message
...
In article ,
BigWallop wrote:

"Niel A. Farrow" wrote in message
...


I'd like too drline the walls of my 1850's 9" solid brick wall house,
mainly for cost and convenience. I've looked at the spec on the
Kingspan
pages and they mention the dot and dab method for cavity walls but not
solid. For solid walls they describe fixing to a frame.

Is dot and dab on solid brick walls not reccommneded?

Thank you,
Neil

With the dob and stick method you're literally making the plasterboard
part
of the wall again, which is not what you want to do if you want to
insulate
it. To make any kind of insulation you need a space in between to create
an
air gap that holds the heat in. The gap can be filled with material that
helps this happen.

even for insulated plasterboard? Even for regular plasterboard there will
be a gap with dot and dab, unless you really skimp on the adhesive.
Neil


Insulating plasterboard with foam stuck on the backside of it, is not really
suitable for the dob and stick method of fixing, mainly because the foam is
soft and if pressed will eventually loosen and pull off the wall leaving the
foam behind. If you don't believe me, try it.

To insulate properly, you need to leave as even a gap as possible all over
the surface. This is more easily done with timber or aluminium studs
covered with a foil backed plasterboard. If you need to retain even more
heat, then a filler with the correct properties in between the studs and
sealed in with plasterboard to create a sandwich is the most effective way
of doing it.


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