Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

"ronnie" wrote in message
...
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

Definitely practice on some scrap first.

90 degree joints are more dfficult even with a jig. You may find you get a
height mismatch if you are a bit inaccurate.

"ronnie" wrote in message
...
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

Presumably you are using a router and template which is the only way to get
a good joint.
1. Always route away from the formed edge. This means turning one of the
mating worktops upside down.
2. Take several passes increasing the depth of cut a little each pass.
3. Use a good quality sharp cutter. The quality of joint the will suffer if
the cutter is not sharp.
4. Seal the joint with a waterproof glue to prevent water seaping into the
joint and lifting the laminate.

I have done this twice. The first time, templates cost about £130 so I made
my own out of MDF. It was before there were cheap half inch router available
and I made do with a quarter inch router. I did manage to get a first class
joint though. My last attempt did not turn out so good as the cutter was not
new. I also didn't get enough glue in the joint and the laminate has lifted
slightly.

Hi Ronnie

ronnie wrote:
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

Don't know if it's too late - but the last-but-one time I did this, the
people supplying the worktop also pre-cut the two joints and the
recesses for the toggle bolts. Might be worth asking ..?

The finished worktop was a 'C'-shape - and it all fitted together
without too much difficulty - but tightening the toggle bolts involved
climbing into the corner base units - which wasn't much fun !

Depending on the squareness of the existing walls, it's said that you
can _only_ mark & cut the joints in-situ - but we managed OK with just a
little 'nibbling' of the plasterwork at one end and any other gaps were
disguised by the tiling on the wall...

Adrian

On 31 Jan, 20:16, ronnie wrote:
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any *hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

I did this (properly) for the first time a couple of years ago and was
surprised at how easy it was using a jig. I baulked at the price but
I found a jig at transtools with a pack of router cutters for around
30 quid so took the plunge. I've no doubt someone will say these
cheap ones are no good, and I'm sure the expensive jobs last a lot
longer, but it seemed fine to me for a couple of cuts. You'll need a
biscuit cutter too - I used one on the router and that worked fine
too.

Good luck

ronnie wrote:
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie.

Are you hiring a jig/router & biscuit jointer ? If so have you ever used a
1/2" router or biscuit jointer before ? My top tip would be to practice on
scrap worktop first to see how things feel. Dont try to clear out too much
material with a single pass of the router, little & often is a better ploy.
Don't underestimate the amount of dust that cutting a masons mitre creates.
Make sure that the router bit always enters the laminated edge and exits the
cut edge. Wear a mask. Measure everything at least twice before cutting.
Never, ever assume that the walls are at 90 degrees to each other, allowing
for out of true walls takes experience to get it right, especially in a 'U'
shaped configuration You will be unpleasantly suprised by the speed that
worktop jointing compound goes off, so dry fit everything until you are
happy before applying sealant and tightening up the bolts.

Lastly good luck

Neil

"Neil" wrote in message
...
ronnie wrote:
Hi Gang,
Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints
with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done
this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this
easier.

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie.

Are you hiring a jig/router & biscuit jointer ? If so have you ever used
a
1/2" router or biscuit jointer before ? My top tip would be to practice on
scrap worktop first to see how things feel. Dont try to clear out too much
material with a single pass of the router, little & often is a better
ploy.
Don't underestimate the amount of dust that cutting a masons mitre
creates.
Make sure that the router bit always enters the laminated edge and exits
the
cut edge. Wear a mask. Measure everything at least twice before cutting.
Never, ever assume that the walls are at 90 degrees to each other,
allowing
for out of true walls takes experience to get it right, especially in a
'U'
shaped configuration You will be unpleasantly suprised by the speed that
worktop jointing compound goes off, so dry fit everything until you are
happy before applying sealant and tightening up the bolts.

Lastly good luck

Neil


If you are in my area give me a call
www.kitchenman.co.uk

--
Regards
dave batter
kitchenman