The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything on
it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to the
sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so water
has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way
of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever
the wood is?

thanks for the help

Millan wrote:
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything on
it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to the
sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so water
has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way
of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever
the wood is?

thanks for the help



Wait for it to dry thoroughly and reglue with something gap filling like
epocxy or car body filler.

On 2007-07-08 07:45:41 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Millan wrote:
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put
anything on it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This
is next to the sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone
round the sink so water has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a
way of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or
whatever the wood is?

thanks for the help


Wait for it to dry thoroughly and reglue with something gap filling
like epocxy or car body filler.

It would be an idea to clamp the laminate as well. Assuming that
the problem is ingress of water at the sink, then the sink will have to
be removed anyway in order to introduce the Revered and Ubiquitious Car
Body Filler.

After this a stout piece of timber (e.g. 50x50 in this case) could be
placed on the worktop over the stuck area and clamped using the sink
hole to fit the clamp.

Alternatively some heavy weights such as pans full of water could be
used to weight down the laminate after sticking with the RUCBF.

Millan
I'm afraid there is nothing you can do to rectify this problem without
replacing the worktop and having it installed properly. The wood
inside will remain expanded, even if you let it dry out.
I would suggest that your landlord gets the person out who originally
fittted it and get him to rectify his bad job.
Regards
Calum Sabey
NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 00:19:14 -0700, "
wrote:

Millan
I'm afraid there is nothing you can do to rectify this problem without
replacing the worktop and having it installed properly. The wood
inside will remain expanded, even if you let it dry out.
I would suggest that your landlord gets the person out who originally
fittted it and get him to rectify his bad job.
Regards
Calum Sabey
NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544


I'd second that and perhaps get someone to look at the job to say it's
a bad job rather than misuse. Else the landlord might hold your
deposit for its repair when you go.

--
http://www.orderonlinepickupinstore.co.uk
Ah fetch it yourself if you can't wait for delivery
http://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk
Or get it delivered for free

On Jul 8, 10:28 am, Mogga wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 00:19:14 -0700, "

wrote:
Millan
I'm afraid there is nothing you can do to rectify this problem without
replacing the worktop and having it installed properly. The wood
inside will remain expanded, even if you let it dry out.
I would suggest that your landlord gets the person out who originally
fittted it and get him to rectify his bad job.
Regards
Calum Sabey
NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544

I'd second that and perhaps get someone to look at the job to say it's
a bad job rather than misuse. Else the landlord might hold your
deposit for its repair when you go.

--http://www.orderonlinepickupinstore.co.uk
Ah fetch it yourself if you can't wait for deliveryhttp://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk
Or get it delivered for free

He is unlikely to get a replacement for the one top that even comes
near to matching the others if there are other tops there.

Best to bite the bullet, Millan and replace with a neutral colour.

There isn't all that much visible in the top that the sink goes into.
And what is visble is soon almost permanently covered in dirty dishes.

If it spans a few cupboards you could cut it to suit. But replacing
them isn't all that big a job if you have all the time in the world
and enough confidence to fill it.

The water to the taps can be stopped and the taps unscrewed and
removed. Ditto the sink drain. Tiled tops can be a problem but part of
the problem is water getting between old tiles and the back of the
top.

So don't be afraid to strip them out too.

Use what is left to mark out the new top. Make sure that there is a
tight fit -maybe even chasing out some of the plaster. Bear in mind
the walls are not going to be square.

The hole for the sink aught to be measured from the sink even if you
are keeping the old one. The worktop might have been damaged because
the hole was too big. It needs to be about half an inch smaller than
the sink.

Put the sink on the top, face to face and draw around it. Then draw an
inner contour 1/2" inside that. Then cut that one out with your Lidl
(or Aldi I forget which is, or was, on sale from Thursday) jig-saw.

Remember to paint the cut edges with clear silicon once you are happy
with the cuts and holes. Trying it in situ will give you the places to
drill for the tap(s). At this point you might find out there is no way
of clipping the sink down.

Shoddy workers may have removed too much from beneath the sink for a
quick fit and a fast effoff.

Here is where the clear silicon comes in. It can cover a multitude of
sins. If there is nothing to fix to you can add "grounds" and silicon
and screw to that if you can get some clips. to that.

Bit of a codge up, that.

Also note: It is much better that coloured silicon or almost any other
sealants. It is also better for skirting and etc., as it doesn't skin
for ages, you can get it off and it is elastic.

"Millan" wrote in message
...
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything
on it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to
the sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so
water has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way
of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever
the wood is?

thanks for the help


Buy a glass counter protector and sit that over the area.
Much easier than fixing it.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...

"Millan" wrote in message
...
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything
on it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to
the sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink
so water has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a
way of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or
whatever the wood is?

thanks for the help


Buy a glass counter protector and sit that over the area.
Much easier than fixing it.

Brilliant idea.
And for damp walls put a setee in front of the mould.

Adam

On Jul 8, 1:43 am, "Millan" wrote:
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything on
it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to the
sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so water
has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way
of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever
the wood is?

thanks for the help

How big is the affected area?

The only sure and reasonably quick way I can think of is to remove the
worktop and rout out the affected area plus a surrounding rebate from
underneath. Then it's just a matter of gluing/screwing some new
chipboard in there.

Hopefully the landlord won't inspect the underside of the workop :^)

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Jul 8, 1:43 am, "Millan" wrote:
The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything on
it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to the
sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so water
has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.

Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way
of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever
the wood is?

thanks for the help

How big is the affected area?

The only sure and reasonably quick way I can think of is to remove the
worktop and rout out the affected area plus a surrounding rebate from
underneath. Then it's just a matter of gluing/screwing some new
chipboard in there.

Hopefully the landlord won't inspect the underside of the workop :^)

cheers,
Pete.





If it's an inset sink, the seal should have prevented this.