i've got white gloss kitchen units and originally didnt buy a
cornice / pelmet but soon after realised it looked like something was
missing. so i bought the white gloss cornice/pelmet (same top and
bottom) from b and q (kitchen from homebase). first of all i'm hoping
it will be an exact match when fitted it looks ok but you can never
tell.

anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

any tips before i attempt this tomorrow/sat is appreciated.

"benpost" wrote in message
...
i've got white gloss kitchen units and originally didnt buy a
cornice / pelmet but soon after realised it looked like something was
missing. so i bought the white gloss cornice/pelmet (same top and
bottom) from b and q (kitchen from homebase). first of all i'm hoping
it will be an exact match when fitted it looks ok but you can never
tell.

anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

any tips before i attempt this tomorrow/sat is appreciated.


I think I would glue them with glue.

You might want to devise a method of clamping the mitres firmly in place
whilst the glue sets.

Also consider using those white plastic blocks for securing the mitres,
the same blocks you'd use for securing the cornice and pelmet to the units


mark

hi mark when you say normal glue do you mean pva? i have plently of
that left!
as for securing to the units, the cornice has a thinner section along
the back which seems ideal to drill through and drill into the
cabinet, right length screws of course. i didnt consider any other way
of securing to the units.

On Fri, 2 Jan 2009 00:41:38 -0000, "mark"
wrote:

I think I would glue them with glue.

That makes sense... :-)

--
Frank Erskine

mark wrote:
"benpost" wrote in message
...
i've got white gloss kitchen units and originally didnt buy a
cornice / pelmet but soon after realised it looked like something was
missing. so i bought the white gloss cornice/pelmet (same top and
bottom) from b and q (kitchen from homebase). first of all i'm hoping
it will be an exact match when fitted it looks ok but you can never
tell.

anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

any tips before i attempt this tomorrow/sat is appreciated.


I think I would glue them with glue.

You might want to devise a method of clamping the mitres firmly in place
whilst the glue sets.

Also consider using those white plastic blocks for securing the mitres,
the same blocks you'd use for securing the cornice and pelmet to the units


mark


I have seen kitchen fitters use 'instant' glue (two part superglue) for
this purpose.

E.g. - from Screwfix:

No Nonsense Mitre Adhesive 200ml

200ml/50g. Fast bonding Adhesive and Activator for wood, rubber,
plastics, ceramics and metals.

From £6.84
Mitre Adhesive 200ml
Quote No: 91838

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

benpost wrote:
i've got white gloss kitchen units and originally didnt buy a
cornice / pelmet but soon after realised it looked like something was
missing. so i bought the white gloss cornice/pelmet (same top and
bottom) from b and q (kitchen from homebase). first of all i'm hoping
it will be an exact match when fitted it looks ok but you can never
tell.

anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

Rather than trying to measure each piece you might find it easier to cut
them slightly oversize & then offer them up & mark exactly where the cut
needs to be.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 02 Jan 2009 08:22:40 +0000, Rod
wrote:

mark wrote:
"benpost" wrote in message
...
i've got white gloss kitchen units and originally didnt buy a
cornice / pelmet but soon after realised it looked like something was
missing. so i bought the white gloss cornice/pelmet (same top and
bottom) from b and q (kitchen from homebase). first of all i'm hoping
it will be an exact match when fitted it looks ok but you can never
tell.

anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

any tips before i attempt this tomorrow/sat is appreciated.


I think I would glue them with glue.

You might want to devise a method of clamping the mitres firmly in place
whilst the glue sets.

Also consider using those white plastic blocks for securing the mitres,
the same blocks you'd use for securing the cornice and pelmet to the units


mark


I have seen kitchen fitters use 'instant' glue (two part superglue) for
this purpose.

E.g. - from Screwfix:

No Nonsense Mitre Adhesive 200ml

200ml/50g. Fast bonding Adhesive and Activator for wood, rubber,
plastics, ceramics and metals.

From £6.84
Mitre Adhesive 200ml
Quote No: 91838

On Fri, 2 Jan 2009 00:41:38 -0000, mark wrote:

I think I would glue them with glue.

I wouldn't glue them before bing offered/fixed to the cupboards. They may
look square but I bet they aren't at least not when you are looking at a
2m run under a couple of wall cupboards.

Simple measuring seems a bit iffy to me as well with a mitre on each end,
like on the front piece. Where do you measure to/from on the angle and
don't forget the moulding? Cut one mitre and drill fixing holes as
required. Position that mitre in the right place relative to the cupboard,
lightly fix then mark where the other mitre should be from the cupboard.

For the side pieces similar approach but don't assume that the bits will
match, a certain amount of "heel and toeing" maye well be required, due to
errors in the cut angle and the cupboard not being exactly square.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article
,
benpost wrote:
anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees.

That's a bit vague. A jigsaw or hand held circular saw can usually have
its bed tilted to 45 degrees - but isn't really suitable for this.
For a decent accurate cut you either something like a compound mitre saw -
or a mitre block and good handsaw.

my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws.

Silicone is messy stuff and not a good adhesive. There is a two part glue
available for just this purpose if you must have a fast setting one - or
use ordinary wood glue and a mitre clamp.

i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for smooth cut.

This finish is rather easy to chip. Personally I'd use a mitre block and a
good tenon saw.

--
*Eschew obfuscation *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

benpost wrote:


anyway i have a cutting machine which can be tilted to 45 degrees. my
plan is to measure the cabinet widths and depths and cut the wood to
the right lengths with the mitre joints. then glue the joints with
clear silicon before fitting to the underside and top of the units
with screws. i guess cutting from the front (gloss side) is best for
smooth cut.

any tips before i attempt this tomorrow/sat is appreciated.

Something to keep in mind, if the cornice is the type that mounts at an
angle (so that it sticks out over the top of the units), then the mitre
you need to cut will not be a simple one on one axis - but rather a
compound one. There are two approaches to this: you can either attempt
to lay it flat and cut both angles together using a suitable compound
mitre saw, or you can build yourself a mitre box that will hold the
cornice at the final fitted angle, and then cut a simple mitre straight
down through this.

--
Cheers,

John.

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