Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around £50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if the
fuse blew? )


So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

(I can post a photo of the fuse if that helps?)

I'm limited for time. Should I try and find fuses somewhere (where can I buy
new fuses on the high street?) Or is it likely that the whole radiator is
defective - shall I take it to the store? (It's a bit of a chore as it's a
bit bulky/awkward to carry)


Would love any advice any of you have!

Thanks

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around
£50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I
was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took
the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if
the
fuse blew? )

No - your fuse will look the same when blown. You would need to get a fuse
tester (or similar) to check it.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has to use a
10A fuse?

(I can post a photo of the fuse if that helps?)

I'm limited for time. Should I try and find fuses somewhere (where can I
buy
new fuses on the high street?) Or is it likely that the whole radiator is
defective - shall I take it to the store? (It's a bit of a chore as it's a
bit bulky/awkward to carry)


You could certainly try with a new 13A fuse (unless it says only to use a
10A one), but bear in mind that it may blow your circuit again. You'll be
able to get fuses at supermarkets, electrical/hardware shops and most corner
shops.

In article rg,
spencer writes:
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around £50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if the
fuse blew? )

No, it looks exactly the same afterwards.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

No, it couldn't be just a blown fuse.
The fuse may or may not be blown, but something else went wrong.

(I can post a photo of the fuse if that helps?)

I'm limited for time. Should I try and find fuses somewhere (where can I buy
new fuses on the high street?) Or is it likely that the whole radiator is
defective - shall I take it to the store? (It's a bit of a chore as it's a
bit bulky/awkward to carry)

If a new radiator blew its fuse, it's defective.
Forget about the fuse, just take it back and say
it went with a loud bang and doesn't work anymore.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I
was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

xxxxxx

Is the socket now working?

All that electricity (kilowatts of power for weeks)
could have melted/damaged a wire between the fusebox and the socket
which is a fire risk and an electrocution risk.

get a one of these and try it on all your sockets:
PRO ELEC - T203 - MAINS TESTER PLUG
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr...questid=349880

it wont prove that all your wiring is OK,
but it may prove that there are faults in your wiring.


[g]

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 10:58:56 +0000, spencer
wrote:

Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around £50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if the
fuse blew? )


So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

(I can post a photo of the fuse if that helps?)

I'm limited for time. Should I try and find fuses somewhere (where can I buy
new fuses on the high street?) Or is it likely that the whole radiator is
defective - shall I take it to the store? (It's a bit of a chore as it's a
bit bulky/awkward to carry)


Would love any advice any of you have!

Thanks
At the risk of encouraging a troll ..here goes ...
A photo of a fuse will be no help .They look the same when good or bad
..I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I
wonder ?) so you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the
suspect fuse with that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the
old fuse back and return the heater to the supplier and tell them it
doesn't work and either get a refund or replacement .

By the way .Start saving for your next elecy bill .

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:17:06 +0000, OG wrote
(in article ):


"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around
£50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I
was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took
the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if
the
fuse blew? )

No - your fuse will look the same when blown. You would need to get a fuse
tester (or similar) to check it.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has to use a
10A fuse?


It's etched/written on the plug itself (as well as displaying 10A on the fuse
label itself)



(I can post a photo of the fuse if that helps?)

I'm limited for time. Should I try and find fuses somewhere (where can I
buy
new fuses on the high street?) Or is it likely that the whole radiator is
defective - shall I take it to the store? (It's a bit of a chore as it's a
bit bulky/awkward to carry)


You could certainly try with a new 13A fuse (unless it says only to use a
10A one), but bear in mind that it may blow your circuit again. You'll be
able to get fuses at supermarkets, electrical/hardware shops and most corner
shops.


Can't see any reference to it in the instructions.

On the plug it says

10A
----
250 V

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:17:06 +0000, OG wrote
(in article ):

You could certainly try with a new 13A fuse (unless it says only to use a 10A

one), but bear in mind that it may blow your circuit again.

Really? It it could blow again, even with a new fuse? that would be a pain
as the trip switch thing is in a locked room/area.

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:34:56 +0000, George \(dicegeorge\) wrote
(in article ):



A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I
was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

xxxxxx

Is the socket now working?

All that electricity (kilowatts of power for weeks)
could have melted/damaged a wire between the fusebox and the socket
which is a fire risk and an electrocution risk.

get a one of these and try it on all your sockets:
PRO ELEC - T203 - MAINS TESTER PLUG

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr..._requestid=349

880

it wont prove that all your wiring is OK,
but it may prove that there are faults in your wiring.


[g]




Yes, the socket works. It's a a multiplug / extension type thing (you know :
one socket --- 4 sockets)

Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:40:14 +0000, wrote
(in article ):

.I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I wonder ?)

Afraid not. Don't even know what one is.


so
you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the suspect fuse with
that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the old fuse back and return
the heater to the supplier and tell them it doesn't work and either get a
refund or replacement .

That's what I was pondering. It's just a bit of a hassle ,but it might be
best to take it back to the retailer.

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:06:01 +0000, spencer wrote
(in article rg):


Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)


update - the fuse in the multiplug/extender thing is 13A. (Is that a
problem?) Should I plug it directly into a socket rather than via an
extender?)

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:34:56 +0000, George \(dicegeorge\) wrote
(in article ):

get a one of these and try it on all your sockets: PRO ELEC - T203 - MAINS
TESTER PLUG

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr..._requestid=349

880

phew, it's £2. I thought it might be really expensive.

Erm, I wonder if I can pick one up on the high street. I shall check. Thanks
for the tip

spencer wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:40:14 +0000, wrote
(in article ):

.I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I wonder ?)

Afraid not. Don't even know what one is.


so
you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the suspect fuse with
that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the old fuse back and return
the heater to the supplier and tell them it doesn't work and either get a
refund or replacement .

That's what I was pondering. It's just a bit of a hassle ,but it might be
best to take it back to the retailer.

If its not working its faulty. Its not always as simple as that, but
this time it is. If it blew its fuse, its faulty, so theres no point
replacing the fuse in this case.

However I'd be hesitant to replace the heater with another too, as
although convenient these plugin heaters are a very pricey way to heat
a place. However it would take money and knwoledge to do it another
way.


NT

Yes, the socket works. It's a a multiplug / extension type thing (you know
:
one socket --- 4 sockets)


aha - have you big power loads on the other 3 ways,
or on other things on the same ring circuit?

kettles etc?

You could try a smaller 3 or 5 amp fuse
and the heater turned down very low...
see what happens -
but be ready to get into the locked room to reset the trip switch...

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:41:10 +0000, George \(dicegeorge\) wrote
(in article ):



Yes, the socket works. It's a a multiplug / extension type thing (you know

one socket --- 4 sockets)


aha - have you big power loads on the other 3 ways,
or on other things on the same ring circuit?

kettles etc?



The other sockets are use for:

- electric toothbrush charger
- shaver charger
- hair clippers charger

and rarely (certainly not at the time I heard the pop noise):
- a Miele vacuum cleaner



You could try a smaller 3 or 5 amp fuse
and the heater turned down very low...
see what happens -
but be ready to get into the locked room to reset the trip switch...


Hmmm...

oh and you can test a 240volt fuse
by taking it out of the plug
then dismantling a torch
and seeing if the bulb works
with the fuse inbetween the battery and light
with a wire going back if you see what i mean,
3 volts will do it, you dont need 240v

--

[george]

~

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:25:50 +0000, wrote
(in article
):

spencer wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:40:14 +0000, wrote
(in article ):

.I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I wonder ?)

Afraid not. Don't even know what one is.


so
you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the suspect fuse with
that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the old fuse back and return
the heater to the supplier and tell them it doesn't work and either get a
refund or replacement .

That's what I was pondering. It's just a bit of a hassle ,but it might be
best to take it back to the retailer.

If its not working its faulty. Its not always as simple as that, but
this time it is. If it blew its fuse, its faulty, so theres no point
replacing the fuse in this case.

However I'd be hesitant to replace the heater with another too, as
although convenient these plugin heaters are a very pricey way to heat
a place. However it would take money and knwoledge to do it another
way.


NT

I rent. So I can't really do anything else. I heard a pop (not sure if it is
the fuse itself). I had left it on continuously for days (but there's nothing
in the instructions saying I shouldn't do this...)

The appliance cost £50, which is okay. Certainly better than the fan heater
I was using (which is noisy; produced dry hot unpleasant air; can burn things
directly in its path!)

In article rg,
spencer writes:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:06:01 +0000, spencer wrote
(in article rg):


Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)


update - the fuse in the multiplug/extender thing is 13A. (Is that a
problem?) Should I plug it directly into a socket rather than via an
extender?)

It's not a good idea to use multiplug/extender or extention cables
with high current appliances like heaters. The multiplugs are usually
relatively poor quality compared with real sockets, and more likely
to overheat.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:17:06 +0000, OG wrote
(in article ):

You could certainly try with a new 13A fuse (unless it says only to use a
10A

one), but bear in mind that it may blow your circuit again.

Really? It it could blow again, even with a new fuse? that would be a
pain
as the trip switch thing is in a locked room/area.

Of course.
The heater is probably faulty and that's what caused the fuse to blow. It is
just possible that the fuse blew for some other reason (i.e. the fuse was at
fault), but the most likely outcome is that the fuse will blow again.

Personally, I'd take it back to the shop for replacement/checking

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 13:07:28 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote
(in article ):

In article rg,
spencer writes:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:06:01 +0000, spencer wrote
(in article rg):


Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)


update - the fuse in the multiplug/extender thing is 13A. (Is that a
problem?) Should I plug it directly into a socket rather than via an
extender?)

It's not a good idea to use multiplug/extender or extention cables
with high current appliances like heaters. The multiplugs are usually
relatively poor quality compared with real sockets, and more likely
to overheat.



Thanks - i've noted your advice.

So, as a next step, should I replace the heater (take it back to the
retailer) or replace the fuse? (seems like a lot of people have suggested
that I ought to take the heater back). (Sorry to ask again - i know very
little about this sort of thing)

The heater is probably faulty and that's what caused the fuse to blow. It is
just possible that the fuse blew for some other reason (i.e. the fuse was at
fault), but the most likely outcome is that the fuse will blow again.

Personally, I'd take it back to the shop for replacement/checking



Thanks - i am definitely taking it back

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 13:07:28 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote
(in article ):

In article rg,
spencer writes:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:06:01 +0000, spencer wrote
(in article rg):


Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)


update - the fuse in the multiplug/extender thing is 13A. (Is that a
problem?) Should I plug it directly into a socket rather than via an
extender?)

It's not a good idea to use multiplug/extender or extention cables
with high current appliances like heaters. The multiplugs are usually
relatively poor quality compared with real sockets, and more likely
to overheat.



By the way - I use a multiplug. thing because I want to place the radiator a
bit further down the corridor (and the are no plug sockets nearby).

"OG" wrote in message
...

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost around
£50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit as I
was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick of a
switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn on so
I
figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I took
the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all black if
the
fuse blew? )

No - your fuse will look the same when blown. You would need to get a fuse
tester (or similar) to check it.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown fuse?
(it's a 10A fuse)

I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has to use
a
10A fuse?


Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.

Adam

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 13:07:28 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote
(in article ):

In article rg,
spencer writes:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:06:01 +0000, spencer wrote
(in article rg):


Erm.. I didn't think to check the fuse of the multiplug thing? (it
still
sends elecy to the other appliances that are plugged in to it)


update - the fuse in the multiplug/extender thing is 13A. (Is that a
problem?) Should I plug it directly into a socket rather than via an
extender?)

It's not a good idea to use multiplug/extender or extention cables
with high current appliances like heaters. The multiplugs are usually
relatively poor quality compared with real sockets, and more likely
to overheat.



By the way - I use a multiplug. thing because I want to place the radiator
a
bit further down the corridor (and the are no plug sockets nearby).


Are you paying your own electricity? - electric heaters can be expensive to
run all the time, and heating a corridor could be an expensive luxury (heat
the rooms you are using and keep doors shut to trap the heat inside). You
could consider getting a power meter to measure the electrical consuption of
your appliances. You can often get them from DIY places for about a tenner.

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
om...


I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has to use
a
10A fuse?


Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.


Thanks. I didn't know that.

wrote:

I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I
wonder ?) so you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the
suspect fuse with that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the
old fuse *back and return the heater to the supplier and tell them it
doesn't work and either get a refund or replacement .

Not the best approach. If a fault in the heater blew the fuse it will
probably do the same to the other fuse, the heater will still be not
working and the OP is without a fuse for the other appliance. The better
approach is to put the suspect fuse into the plug of a known working
appliance (providing it's not more than 2.4 kilowatts), if the appliance
works then the fuse is OK. For a *brief* test like this with a known good
working appliance it won't matter if the fuse has a higher rating than the
appliance needs.

But as others have said, the outcome of testing the fuse is irrelevant in
this situation. If the heater tripped the circuit breaker then it's almost
certainly faulty and needs to be checked by a suitably competent person.

--
Mike Clarke

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 14:16:09 +0000, Mike Clarke
wrote:

wrote:

I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I
wonder ?) so you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the
suspect fuse with that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the
old fuse *back and return the heater to the supplier and tell them it
doesn't work and either get a refund or replacement .

Not the best approach. If a fault in the heater blew the fuse it will
probably do the same to the other fuse, the heater will still be not
working and the OP is without a fuse for the other appliance. The better
approach is to put the suspect fuse into the plug of a known working
appliance (providing it's not more than 2.4 kilowatts), if the appliance
works then the fuse is OK. For a *brief* test like this with a known good
working appliance it won't matter if the fuse has a higher rating than the
appliance needs.


Yeah.That's a better idea .

But as others have said, the outcome of testing the fuse is irrelevant in
this situation. If the heater tripped the circuit breaker then it's almost
certainly faulty and needs to be checked by a suitably competent person.

Indeed

In article ,
"ARWadsworth" writes:

Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.

One slightly strange thing is that the 1A ones are not ASTA
certified, so they are strictly speaking a PAT test failure
when used in a 13A plug (where BS1362 fuses must also be ASTA
certified too).

ASTA = Association of Short-circuit Testing Authorities
(I'll bet it's good fun working for them;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

ARWadsworth wrote:
"OG" wrote in message
...

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost
around £50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit
as I was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick
of a switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn
on so I figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I
took the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all
black if the
fuse blew? )

No - your fuse will look the same when blown. You would need to get
a fuse tester (or similar) to check it.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown
fuse? (it's a 10A fuse)

I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has
to use a 10A fuse?


Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.

Where the kinnel do you get 1, 2,7,&10?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.

Where the kinnel do you get 1, 2,7,&10?

Dave,

Normal professional electrical suppliers will carry these.

CPC and TLC list them all

Bob

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
ARWadsworth wrote:
"OG" wrote in message
...

"spencer" wrote in message
la.org...
Hi

I bought a new Bionair oil filled radiator very recently. It cost
around £50
and has been great. I leave it on most of the time

A few nights ago there was a very loud pop. It freaked me out a bit
as I was
little high. The electricity in the flat went (but not the ceiling
lights).

The electricity to was restored the next day with the simple flick
of a switch (in a locked cupboard).

I had no idea what had made the noise. The radiator wouldn't turn
on so I figured that a heating element or something blew?!

It just occurred to me: hey, maybe it was the fuse that blew? So, I
took the
fuse out of the plug & it looks fine. (I expect it would be all
black if the
fuse blew? )

No - your fuse will look the same when blown. You would need to get
a fuse tester (or similar) to check it.

So, before I take the radiator back to the store for an
exchange/repair/refund, i'd like to ask: could it just be a blown
fuse? (it's a 10A fuse)

I've only seen 3,5 and 13 A fuses. does it specifically say it has
to use a 10A fuse?


Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.

Where the kinnel do you get 1, 2,7,&10?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

Well you can find the 7 amp ones in stairlift FCUs.

The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a 1, 2, 7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Adam

spencer wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:25:50 +0000, wrote
(in article
):

spencer wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:40:14 +0000, wrote
(in article ):

.I suspect you don't have a fuse tester ( why am I saying that I wonder ?)
Afraid not. Don't even know what one is.


so
you could remove a fuse from another plug and replace the suspect fuse with
that one and try it .If that doesn't work put the old fuse back and return
the heater to the supplier and tell them it doesn't work and either get a
refund or replacement .
That's what I was pondering. It's just a bit of a hassle ,but it might be
best to take it back to the retailer.
If its not working its faulty. Its not always as simple as that, but
this time it is. If it blew its fuse, its faulty, so theres no point
replacing the fuse in this case.

However I'd be hesitant to replace the heater with another too, as
although convenient these plugin heaters are a very pricey way to heat
a place. However it would take money and knwoledge to do it another
way.


NT

I rent. So I can't really do anything else. I heard a pop (not sure if it is
the fuse itself). I had left it on continuously for days (but there's nothing
in the instructions saying I shouldn't do this...)

The appliance cost £50, which is okay. Certainly better than the fan heater
I was using (which is noisy; produced dry hot unpleasant air; can burn things
directly in its path!)


POP and blown fuses now it does not work ,just take it back I would not
even bother to check the fuse

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a 1, 2, 7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early colour
TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.

--
Frank Erskine

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a 1, 2,
7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early colour
TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.

There were only 3A and 13A fuses once.
And there is only a need for those.
The fuse is to protect the flex and not the equipment.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a
1, 2, 7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early colour
TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.

There were only 3A and 13A fuses once.

Rubbish - I have an old plug with a 5A fuse in. Hails from the 50s

There is also a 15A version



And there is only a need for those.
The fuse is to protect the flex and not the equipment.

--
geoff

update - thanks to you all for your advice

I returned it to the retailer, and exchanged it. Was a bit of a pain in the
butt. Had to be done though.

dennis@home wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted
a 1, 2, 7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early
colour TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.

There were only 3A and 13A fuses once.
And there is only a need for those.
The fuse is to protect the flex and not the equipment.

I remember blue 2-A, yellow 10-A (and brown 13-A) fuses from when I was 7
(about 1969)
(And white "Empire Made" 13-A fuses with caps that pulled off and no sand
inside!)
Then blue 3-A ones, then red ones.
The fuse once used to also serve to protect the equipment, but not now, as
everything should now be OK on a Continental unfused plug on a 16-A circuit.
I still wonder why there was never a 6-A fuse, though, to match the
new-fangled metric flex!

In article ,
"dennis@home" writes:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a 1, 2,
7
or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.

Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early colour
TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.

There were only 3A and 13A fuses once.
And there is only a need for those.

It's the other way around. All those values always existed,
and were required when appliances had longer flexs.
They still exist today, but only 3A and 13A are still regarded
as standard values, as the others have steadily been dropped
(in a large part due to changes to appliance legislation as
a result of the open market across Europe, e.g. building an
appliance that requires a 7A plug fuse to be safe would now be
illegal).

The fuse is to protect the flex and not the equipment.

Yes.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 29 Nov 2008 15:30:52 GMT someone who may be
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote this:-

ASTA = Association of Short-circuit Testing Authorities
(I'll bet it's good fun working for them;-)

Fuse manufacturers have put out some wonderful films to promote
their wares. I remember one where busbars were made to "explode",
they flew off in various directions shedding bits of molten copper
in the process. Must have been great fun to make the film.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Sun, 30 Nov 2008 01:25:47 +0000, spencer
wrote:



update - thanks to you all for your advice

I returned it to the retailer, and exchanged it. Was a bit of a pain in the
butt. Had to be done though.


I hope you saw the advice about how often to use and the expected
increase in your leccy bills especially if you are leaving it on all
the time as you said you had been . As far as I know these things
swallow electricity .. Read you meter before and after and see how
much it uses ,in fact watch the speed of the wheel on your meter
before you switch the heater on and after and see the difference .

David Hansen wrote:
On 29 Nov 2008 15:30:52 GMT someone who may be
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote this:-

ASTA = Association of Short-circuit Testing Authorities
(I'll bet it's good fun working for them;-)

Fuse manufacturers have put out some wonderful films to promote
their wares. I remember one where busbars were made to "explode",
they flew off in various directions shedding bits of molten copper
in the process. Must have been great fun to make the film.



You may be interested in http://www.era.co.uk/services/devices.asp

Regards

James