Hello,

With the sales and VAT cut all going on, I wondered if now was the
time to buy a thicknesser. I have been replacing some floorboards and
keep asking the timer merchant to plane down some 5"x1". Modern day
floorboards seem to be 18mm, whereas in my imperial house they are
16mm (IIRC that's 5/8").

So can anyone recommend a good, budget, model that would do the job?
What else do you use yours for? When the spec. talks about the maximum
size wood that can be planed, what should I be looking for? Is 6
inches wide enough, or is it worth paying extra for 8 inch capacity?
Though I said budget, I would like one with automatic feed.

Thanks,
Stephen.

On 28 Nov, 14:38, Stephen wrote:

So can anyone recommend a good, budget, model that would do the job?

I don't have one (yet!) as I went for separate thicknesser and jointer
instead. This gives me a wider thicknesser (13" rather than 10") and a
6" jointer-planer that's wide enough for most things I'd want to use
it for.

I don't hold with the "you have to surface one side first" argument.
If you knock the high spots down first (only thing I use an electric
handheld planer for) and are gentle on technique, then you can surface
plane both sides by multiple passes through your thicknesser. If you
can't get a board flat like this, it was too twisty to be much use
whatever you did to it.


My thicknesser is the popular Axminster CT330
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...sser-21831.htm
Importantly it has a head lock, which (with soem care for technique)
removes the problem of sniping the ends.

Noisy as hell, as it's not an induction motor. For that you're
loooking at twice the money and a four post like this:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-J...sser-21826.htm

You'll also need a 4" chip sucker and a lot of bags. I rarely use my
thicknesser, but when I do I put a big batch through it. I can usually
make about 10 bags of shavings in a day.

My jointer is the ubiquitous 6" one that's at the hert of every
similar model
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...ner-370404.htm
Axminster's isn't the best of the bunch though and some have better
fence clamping.
Gravity dump into a box deals with the chips.

I use my jointer a lot and it makes life a lot quicker. Doesn't do
much I couldn't do with a plane though.

My thicknesser paid for itself in the first week, just by preparing a
couple of ton of oak and buying it off the bandsaw from hippies rather
than overpriced crap from Robbins.


Pretty soon I hope to have 3 phase, then it's off to the auctions for
a big old cast iron 15" - 20" combination planer-thicknesser. Below
this scale though, I wouldn't bother with a combination.

It's not a budget model, but I can't fault my Scheppach:

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.ph...n/SCHHMS2600CI

(mine's the older 760 model, but I believe basically the same).

I've tried a benchtop thicknesser and was very disappointed in what a
nasty snatchy, snipey thing it was - whilst the Scheppach handles
light and heavy timbers with complete grace right up to the size
limits of the machine.

I'd agree with Andy that a chip-sucker/dust-extractor (a 100mm one) is
absolutely essential. The machine will clog in seconds without one.

As ever, care is required not to get metal or grit into contact with
the cutters, or all your work will have tramlines, and new cutters are
about 45 quid (or around half that to have them professionally
reground)

My scheppach is the one piece of the few bits of machinery that I will
hang on to - even if I acquire a full-size 3-phase machine at some
point.

(speaking of which, my experience of the old British cast iron
monsters tells me they have no equal - if you have the space and can
power one - they can be acquired cheaply and deliver the best possible
results on anything you're capable of lifting into them).

But it's also worth saying, if your objective is just to level in
floorboards, a handheld electric planer would be quite sufficient to
work on the lower face of the boards and take out a shallow cut where
each board crosses a joist.

On 28 Nov, 16:54, " wrote:
I'd agree with Andy that a chip-sucker/dust-extractor (a 100mm one) is
absolutely essential. The machine will clog in seconds without one.

Mine doesn't clog, but it does throw the shavings all over the place
otherwise. With the jointer I can empty the box or shovel them fast
enough to keep up, but not with two people working a thicknesser.

I do also regard the thicknesser as a two-person machien to operate.
At least if you're doing a stack of boards it is. You also need to
work with it on a workbench wide enough to have an "in" and an "out"
stack of boards alongside it. It's far too slow if you have to do any
walking about, although of course that's fine for a single board or
two. I see little benefit to a "stand" for it.

As ever, care is required not to get metal or grit into contact with
the cutters, or all your work will have tramlines, and new cutters are
about 45 quid (or around half that to have them professionally
reground)

Many of them avoid the need to adjust the blades (not too tricky - but
you need a dial gauge on a block) by using "ground to size" blades.
These are often double edged so can be turned over, but they're not re-
sharpenable.


My scheppach is the one piece of the few bits of machinery that I will
hang on to - even if I acquire a full-size 3-phase machine at some
point.

Can't say I've been impressed with Elu / Elektra Beckum / Scheppach as
I always found their frames a bit "tinny".

On 28 Nov, 16:54, " wrote:

As ever, care is required not to get metal or grit into contact with
the cutters, or all your work will have tramlines, and new cutters are
about 45 quid (or around half that to have them professionally
reground)

You're being stung. Try Method Tools next time. Last time I bought
some, somewhere around a tenner for a pair of new HSS ones (for an HMS
260). The TC blades I bought for some teak from them were "only"
£80.

I get them sharpened at the local saw doctors for about a fiver.

On 28 Nov, 17:05, Andy Dingley wrote:

Can't say I've been impressed with Elu / Elektra Beckum / Scheppach as
I always found their frames a bit "tinny".

Tinny, and shortish tables, but nonetheless they still give a much
better finish than the Chinese clone stuff I've used, especially
through the thicknesser.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 28 Nov, 14:38, Stephen wrote:

So can anyone recommend a good, budget, model that would do the job?

I don't have one (yet!) as I went for separate thicknesser and jointer
instead. This gives me a wider thicknesser (13" rather than 10") and a
6" jointer-planer that's wide enough for most things I'd want to use
it for.

I don't hold with the "you have to surface one side first" argument.
If you knock the high spots down first (only thing I use an electric
handheld planer for) and are gentle on technique, then you can surface
plane both sides by multiple passes through your thicknesser. If you
can't get a board flat like this, it was too twisty to be much use
whatever you did to it.


My thicknesser is the popular Axminster CT330
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...sser-21831.htm
Importantly it has a head lock, which (with soem care for technique)
removes the problem of sniping the ends.

Noisy as hell, as it's not an induction motor. For that you're
loooking at twice the money and a four post like this:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-J...sser-21826.htm

You'll also need a 4" chip sucker and a lot of bags. I rarely use my
thicknesser, but when I do I put a big batch through it. I can usually
make about 10 bags of shavings in a day.

My jointer is the ubiquitous 6" one that's at the hert of every
similar model
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...ner-370404.htm
Axminster's isn't the best of the bunch though and some have better
fence clamping.
Gravity dump into a box deals with the chips.

I use my jointer a lot and it makes life a lot quicker. Doesn't do
much I couldn't do with a plane though.

My thicknesser paid for itself in the first week, just by preparing a
couple of ton of oak and buying it off the bandsaw from hippies rather
than overpriced crap from Robbins.


Pretty soon I hope to have 3 phase, then it's off to the auctions for
a big old cast iron 15" - 20" combination planer-thicknesser. Below
this scale though, I wouldn't bother with a combination.

Lucky man, to have the space..

I absolutely drool over the rough sawn boards at the country fairs. But
I have no hope of turning them into usable joinery timber ..so I have to
buy from the men with the kit you have. At a price.

I do also regard the thicknesser as a two-person machien to operate.
At least if you're doing a stack of boards it is.

? I'd have time to have several swigs of tea and stroll round the
other side before a long board comes through.

Can't say I've been impressed with Elu / Elektra Beckum / Scheppach as
I always found their frames a bit "tinny".

I passed by similar-sized models from Beckum and DeWalt for that
reason - but the Scheppach has cast-iron tables - the whole thing
around 80 kilos built up I think.

You're being stung. *Try Method Tools next time. *

Thanks for that. I've only bought one spare set, and it was a distress
purchase at the time.

It might have been a tenner I paid for sharpening from the saw doctors
(in Brandon, Suffolk) - but they lost them for several days, and it
was not too fine a job anyway. There's another East Anglian outfit
I've seen the results from, that I'll use in future.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Lucky man, to have the space..

I absolutely drool over the rough sawn boards at the country fairs. But
I have no hope of turning them into usable joinery timber ..so I have to
buy from the men with the kit you have. At a price.

How much do you need? Thicknesser on a workmate, and couple of roller
stands to catch the output is workable for small to medium quantities of
work. I normally just take over a bit of lawn on a dry day if I have
long timbers to prepare.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Stephen wrote:

With the sales and VAT cut all going on, I wondered if now was the
time to buy a thicknesser. I have been replacing some floorboards and
keep asking the timer merchant to plane down some 5"x1". Modern day
floorboards seem to be 18mm, whereas in my imperial house they are
16mm (IIRC that's 5/8").

So can anyone recommend a good, budget, model that would do the job?

To do floor boards, most of the ones available will make a reasonable job.

What else do you use yours for?

Preparing sawn timber mostly... can be handy when you want odd sizes of
board, or just as an alternative to hand finishing.

When the spec. talks about the maximum
size wood that can be planed, what should I be looking for? Is 6
inches wide enough, or is it worth paying extra for 8 inch capacity?
Though I said budget, I would like one with automatic feed.

Two sizes will be mentioned - max width and depth. The depth is less of
an issue and 6" would usually be adequate for many purposes - a bit more
can be handy if you want to use it with jigs or fences for squaring the
edge of boards (i.e. poor man's jointer - make a fence with base and
side plate, slap some boards on it on edge and clamp to the side plate,
then feed through the thicknesser).

Width is more important, but does depend on the application. Most of the
time you will be doing narrower stock, so extra width buys the ability
to do more than one board at a time. Most of the portable machines seem
to do 8" - 12".

I played with a few of the portable ones before choosing. I borrowed one
of axminster's older ones which looked rather like a version of:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...file=1&jump=44

That was ok, but had rather alot of snipe (the tendency to put a blemish
or dish in the beginning and ends of stock you feed through it). The
tables were a tad too short, and there was no carriage lock which would
help reduce the snipe and improve the finish for a final pass. I expect
the 330 that Andy has would be much better in those respects.

In the end I went for a DeWalt DW733. I managed to get one for about the
same price as the Axminster CT330. I have been generally been very
pleased with it (couple of minor handling grumbles, but the performance
is spot on). Its a four post design with a lock, and a higher rotation
speed on the cutter block than many. It can get a very fine finish when
required.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message
, Andy
Dingley writes

Many of them avoid the need to adjust the blades (not too tricky - but
you need a dial gauge on a block) by using "ground to size" blades.
These are often double edged so can be turned over, but they're not re-
sharpenable.

Umm... I was told you can set planer blades with a splint of wood. AFAIR
you lay the wood across the throat, mark where it touches the opening,
rotate the spindle by hand such that the blade picks up the splint and
carries it forward. The setting is correct when the forward carry is
15mm.

No claims for injuries will be met:-)

regards
--
Tim Lamb

On 28 Nov, 19:16, Tim Lamb wrote:

Many of them avoid the need to adjust the blades (not too tricky - but
you need a dial gauge on a block) by using "ground to size" blades.
These are often double edged so can be turned over, but they're not re-
sharpenable.

Umm... I was told you can set planer blades with a splint of wood.

Bugger that, use the dial gauge. It's a lot quicker than all these
hokey old religions.

The problem is that many of them now are simply not adjustable at all
(my jointer is adjustable, my thicknesser isn't). The new blades are
instantly set correctly by slipping them over fixed pins, but if you
reduce their width by sharpening and grinding them, there's no way to
re-set them back into place.

Planer thicknesser?I regularly Buy This product for my Woodwork. i highly Recommended the site from where i use to buy All time


Site : goo.gl/LMH20A

The supplier of above site is all time famous for the woodworking machine tool.fast delivery Superb service

Thanks,
Brain

I guess You beet confuse About Where to go for buy Planer thicknesser right?
You want to buy Online or What ?

If you want to buy Planer thicknesser online you can go through goo.gl/LMH20A
Highly Recommended Quick Delivery And very known Supplioer

Thanks,
Joy

A spammer wrote:


Planer thicknesser?I regularly Buy This product for my Woodwork. i

So you are saying these are poor quality products that need frequent
replacement then?

highly Recommended the site from where i use to buy All time

Site : bla bla bla

The supplier of above site is all time famous for the woodworking
machine tool.fast delivery Superb service

Would you like to try that spam again, only this time in English?

Are you using a shortened URL because you don't want the address
https://www.woodfordtooling.com/ linked with spam posts?







--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/03/2016 10:37, John Rumm wrote:

Would you like to try that spam again, only this time in English?

Are you using a shortened URL because you don't want the address
https://www.woodfordtooling.com/ linked with spam posts?

I assume that the company is legit, but they've been rather foolish in
handing out an affiliate link?

GB wrote:

I assume that the company is legit, but they've been rather foolish in
handing out an affiliate link?

I don't see any affiliate link, I'd tend to assume they've made a poor
choice of SEO adviser ...