Hello,

I was thinking of converting my HW to a pumped system because I'm
fed-up of waiting ages for hot water to come out of the tap!

I understand I need a pump with a bronze impeller: are there any
available for under £100?

AIUI the pump is controlled by a pipe thermostat. I have had a look at
the instructions of the Horstman cylinder thermostat and it says it
can be used as a pipe stat on pipes of 28mm and above. Presumably to
give a sufficient surface area for heat transfer but I was only going
to use 15mm pipe. The Honeywell cylinder thermostat instructions do
not mention anything about use as a pipe thermostat.

Will all 'stats require 28mm pipe or will any work with pipes of
smaller diameters?

Using a short length of 28mm pipe with a 15 to 28 reducing coupling is
one way around it but it seems a waste to have to buy a length of 28mm
pipe just to use a couple of inches of it.

When I get hot water to the taps I wonder whether I might have the
opposite problem of the water being too hot! AIUI the water has to be
60C to kill bacteria so is the only answer to have thermostatic mixers
at each tap to cool the hot water down to say 40C?

Thanks,
Stephen.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stephen wrote:

Hello,

I was thinking of converting my HW to a pumped system because I'm
fed-up of waiting ages for hot water to come out of the tap!

I understand I need a pump with a bronze impeller: are there any
available for under £100?

AIUI the pump is controlled by a pipe thermostat. I have had a look at
the instructions of the Horstman cylinder thermostat and it says it
can be used as a pipe stat on pipes of 28mm and above. Presumably to
give a sufficient surface area for heat transfer but I was only going
to use 15mm pipe. The Honeywell cylinder thermostat instructions do
not mention anything about use as a pipe thermostat.

Will all 'stats require 28mm pipe or will any work with pipes of
smaller diameters?

Using a short length of 28mm pipe with a 15 to 28 reducing coupling is
one way around it but it seems a waste to have to buy a length of 28mm
pipe just to use a couple of inches of it.

When I get hot water to the taps I wonder whether I might have the
opposite problem of the water being too hot! AIUI the water has to be
60C to kill bacteria so is the only answer to have thermostatic mixers
at each tap to cool the hot water down to say 40C?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Are you sure that the pump is controlled by a stat? Shower pumps serve a
similar purpose, and they are often controlled by a flow switch. As soon as
a tap is opened, there is *some* flow - by gravity - and this is enough to
trigger the flow switch to make the pump cut in.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stephen wrote:

Hello,

I was thinking of converting my HW to a pumped system because I'm
fed-up of waiting ages for hot water to come out of the tap!

I understand I need a pump with a bronze impeller: are there any
available for under £100?

AIUI the pump is controlled by a pipe thermostat. I have had a look at
the instructions of the Horstman cylinder thermostat and it says it
can be used as a pipe stat on pipes of 28mm and above. Presumably to
give a sufficient surface area for heat transfer but I was only going
to use 15mm pipe. The Honeywell cylinder thermostat instructions do
not mention anything about use as a pipe thermostat.

Will all 'stats require 28mm pipe or will any work with pipes of
smaller diameters?

Using a short length of 28mm pipe with a 15 to 28 reducing coupling is
one way around it but it seems a waste to have to buy a length of 28mm
pipe just to use a couple of inches of it.

When I get hot water to the taps I wonder whether I might have the
opposite problem of the water being too hot! AIUI the water has to be
60C to kill bacteria so is the only answer to have thermostatic mixers
at each tap to cool the hot water down to say 40C?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Are you sure that the pump is controlled by a stat? Shower pumps serve a
similar purpose, and they are often controlled by a flow switch. As soon
as a tap is opened, there is *some* flow - by gravity - and this is enough
to trigger the flow switch to make the pump cut in.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Are you meaning a pump to increase the pressure - or a pump to circulate
water around a domestic ring to avoid dead legs?

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stephen wrote:

Hello,

I was thinking of converting my HW to a pumped system because I'm
fed-up of waiting ages for hot water to come out of the tap!

I understand I need a pump with a bronze impeller: are there any
available for under £100?

AIUI the pump is controlled by a pipe thermostat. I have had a look at
the instructions of the Horstman cylinder thermostat and it says it
can be used as a pipe stat on pipes of 28mm and above. Presumably to
give a sufficient surface area for heat transfer but I was only going
to use 15mm pipe. The Honeywell cylinder thermostat instructions do
not mention anything about use as a pipe thermostat.

Will all 'stats require 28mm pipe or will any work with pipes of
smaller diameters?

Using a short length of 28mm pipe with a 15 to 28 reducing coupling is
one way around it but it seems a waste to have to buy a length of 28mm
pipe just to use a couple of inches of it.

When I get hot water to the taps I wonder whether I might have the
opposite problem of the water being too hot! AIUI the water has to be
60C to kill bacteria so is the only answer to have thermostatic mixers
at each tap to cool the hot water down to say 40C?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Are you sure that the pump is controlled by a stat? Shower pumps serve a
similar purpose, and they are often controlled by a flow switch. As soon
as a tap is opened, there is *some* flow - by gravity - and this is enough
to trigger the flow switch to make the pump cut in.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


By Ring - I think I meant Hot Water Recirculation

http://www.redytemp.com/hot-water-re...w-it-works.htm

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John wrote:

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...

Are you sure that the pump is controlled by a stat? Shower pumps
serve a similar purpose, and they are often controlled by a flow
switch. As soon as a tap is opened, there is *some* flow - by
gravity - and this is enough to trigger the flow switch to make the
pump cut in. --
Cheers,
Roger



Are you meaning a pump to increase the pressure - or a pump to
circulate water around a domestic ring to avoid dead legs?


I was meaning the former but - on re-reading the OP - maybe that was about
the latter.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 21:19:03 -0000, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

I was meaning the former but - on re-reading the OP - maybe that was about
the latter.

Sorry if I was not clear; you were right first time. It takes forever
for hot water to get to the downstairs taps, so I just want to
circulate hot water around the pipe work to get instant hot water;
there's no need to increase the pressure AFAIK.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stephen wrote:

On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 21:19:03 -0000, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

I was meaning the former but - on re-reading the OP - maybe that was
about the latter.

Sorry if I was not clear; you were right first time. It takes forever
for hot water to get to the downstairs taps, so I just want to
circulate hot water around the pipe work to get instant hot water;
there's no need to increase the pressure AFAIK.

In that case, I wasn't right! I was talking about increasing the pressure -
or, more precisely, the flow rate from cylinder to tap - rather than about
constant circulation.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Stephen wrote:
Hello,

I was thinking of converting my HW to a pumped system because I'm
fed-up of waiting ages for hot water to come out of the tap!

I understand I need a pump with a bronze impeller: are there any
available for under £100?

AIUI the pump is controlled by a pipe thermostat. I have had a look at
the instructions of the Horstman cylinder thermostat and it says it
can be used as a pipe stat on pipes of 28mm and above. Presumably to
give a sufficient surface area for heat transfer but I was only going
to use 15mm pipe. The Honeywell cylinder thermostat instructions do
not mention anything about use as a pipe thermostat.

Will all 'stats require 28mm pipe or will any work with pipes of
smaller diameters?

Using a short length of 28mm pipe with a 15 to 28 reducing coupling is
one way around it but it seems a waste to have to buy a length of 28mm
pipe just to use a couple of inches of it.

When I get hot water to the taps I wonder whether I might have the
opposite problem of the water being too hot! AIUI the water has to be
60C to kill bacteria so is the only answer to have thermostatic mixers
at each tap to cool the hot water down to say 40C?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Why do you have this problem? Is your pipework extra long or large diameter?

Just asking because there might be feasible alternatives - such as
replumbing in 10mm pipe.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 12:02:32 +0000, Rod
wrote:

Why do you have this problem? Is your pipework extra long or large diameter?

Just asking because there might be feasible alternatives - such as
replumbing in 10mm pipe.

Sorry for the delay in replying: just a long, un-lagged, pipe run to
the kitchen from the cylinder upstairs. The pipe goes into the
concrete floor so I cannot easily access it to lag it. It's 15mm.

Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 12:02:32 +0000, Rod
wrote:

Why do you have this problem? Is your pipework extra long or large diameter?

Just asking because there might be feasible alternatives - such as
replumbing in 10mm pipe.

Sorry for the delay in replying: just a long, un-lagged, pipe run to
the kitchen from the cylinder upstairs. The pipe goes into the
concrete floor so I cannot easily access it to lag it. It's 15mm.

Doesn't sound promising for any alternatives I could dream up. :-(

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org