All

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
very difficult to slit the outer sheath with a stanley knife. How do
other people
remove the outer cable sheath without taking off their fingers too ?.

Andrew

On 10 Oct, 21:50, ad wrote:
All

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
very difficult to slit the outer sheath with a stanley knife. How do
other people
remove the outer cable sheath without taking off their fingers too ?.

Andrew

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Rob

On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 14:12:32 -0700 (PDT), robgraham
wrote:

On 10 Oct, 21:50, ad wrote:
All

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
very difficult to slit the outer sheath with a stanley knife. How do
other people
remove the outer cable sheath without taking off their fingers too ?.

Andrew

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Rob

I thought everyone knew that !!!!

robgraham wrote:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

With practice you can use the side cutters to pull the wire as well - no
need to change to the pliers that way.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham
saying something like:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was ever
caused by this practice.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

Grimly Curmudgeon coughed up some electrons that declared:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham
saying something like:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was ever
caused by this practice.

I've just been formally taught this method on the mini-course I'm doing
(exams for VRQ/EAL Level 2 this weekend).

However, I find I prefer (given a lot of upcoming work):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...EStrippers.jpg

and

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...thStripper.jpg

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I've just been formally taught this method on the mini-course I'm doing
(exams for VRQ/EAL Level 2 this weekend).

However, I find I prefer (given a lot of upcoming work):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...EStrippers.jpg

You'll often find there's not enough chalk used to slip off the shroud
without having to split it anyway.

FWIW I don't like that type of stripper for doing singles- and I've got
just about every type made. My favourite type is:-

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...ct&R=073484 8

--
*I have a degree in liberal arts -- do you want fries with that

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I've just been formally taught this method on the mini-course I'm doing
(exams for VRQ/EAL Level 2 this weekend).

However, I find I prefer (given a lot of upcoming work):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...EStrippers.jpg

You'll often find there's not enough chalk used to slip off the shroud
without having to split it anyway.

FWIW I don't like that type of stripper for doing singles- and I've got
just about every type made. My favourite type is:-

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...ct&R=073484 8
My favorite piece of legal speak, "Image for illustrative purposes only"
WTF do they intend that to mean?

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham
saying something like:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was
ever caused by this practice.

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

Bah humbug.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

My favorite piece of legal speak, "Image for illustrative purposes
only" WTF do they intend that to mean?

WYSINNWYG












(what you see is not necessarily what you get)
--
Robin

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was
ever caused by this practice.

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this
because I feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's
always seemed bad practice to me.

Well, just try breaking a scrap piece. You'll not find it easy.
I tend to start with a cut down the middle then pull out the ECC.

--
*How's my driving? Call 999*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 07:51:03 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

Well if you consider how wire is made in the first place, by drawing
it through a hole in a die, tugging it out of the side of a pvc cable
is nothing!

--
Frank Erskine

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 07:51:03 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

Well if you consider how wire is made in the first place, by drawing
it through a hole in a die, tugging it out of the side of a pvc cable
is nothing!

I have seen an electrician cursing a batch of T&E precisely because the
earth wire snapped when he did just that. Might have been faulty, or
just not the same as his usual supplies. It was quite a long time ago.

And I have managed to do it myself - but I dismissed that as being my
cack-handedness - maybe pulling it out too fast (or slow)/at a bad
angle/something else wrong.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham
saying something like:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.
Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was
ever caused by this practice.

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

If you use cutters to pull it, then you usually snip the end off
afterwards so that you are not using the bit that is bent and dented
from the grabbing and pulling exercise.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 11 Oct, 11:12, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 07:51:03 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"

wrote:
I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. *It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

Well if you consider how wire is made in the first place, by drawing
it through a hole in a die, tugging it out of the side of a pvc cable
is nothing!

--
Frank Erskine

Yes, that's true but drawing copper will work harden it so it should
be annealed after the drawing process, and one assumes that poor
quality ECC that breaks is inadequately annealed which might well lead
to the cable itself breaking at some stage of the installation process
if it is being pulled through a narrow space or the likes.
Rob

"ad" wrote in message
...
All

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
very difficult to slit the outer sheath with a stanley knife. How do
other people
remove the outer cable sheath without taking off their fingers too ?.

Andrew

How not to do it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rn0VcDvBD2E

Notice the force of the blade leaving the cutting off of the white outer
sheathing,did it hit him in the face?

"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...
robgraham wrote:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

With practice you can use the side cutters to pull the wire as well - no
need to change to the pliers that way.

Shhh there have to be some secrets.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham
saying something like:

Cable stripping - snip into the end with your wire cutters such that
you can access the earth wire. Grab the earth wire with pliers, and
holding the end of the cable with your fingers, just pull down the
earth wire and it will split the outer sheathing as far as you want.
Then just cut off the sheathing.

Traditional method - but you'll get some know-all coming along and
telling you you can't do that any longer as it puts a strain on the
centre conductor and it might break.
Funny thing is, I've never found a broken centre conductor that was
ever caused by this practice.

I don't 'know' so I can't be a know-all, but I've never done this because I
feared it would put a strain on the centre conductor. It's always seemed
bad practice to me.

Me too, I usually split it by nicking both sides of the outer sheath
with side cutters and pulling the 2 thicker conductors apart.

I never liked to strain the earth wire that much.

Paul.

ad wrote:
All

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
very difficult to slit the outer sheath with a stanley knife. How do
other people
remove the outer cable sheath without taking off their fingers too ?.

Andrew
Make sure the cable is not twisted. Use a Stanley knife across the end
of the cable and run it down with the blade on one sideof the earth
condictor and angled towards it so that the sharpening angle on the
blade is parallel to the earth conductor. Hope you can see what I mean.

Malcolm

ad wrote:

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,

Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
....
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...EStrippers.jpg

You'll often find there's not enough chalk used to slip off the shroud
without having to split it anyway.

FWIW I don't like that type of stripper for doing singles- and I've got
just about every type made. My favourite type is:-


http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...ct&R=073484 8


Ah yes, use to have something like that for smaller wires.

On the sheath stripping, the Cable Slitter tool I mentioned is probably the
best general purpose tool I've come across. It does need setting up (width
and knife depth) but it covers a fairly large range of flat cable which the
automatic versions don't.

It is basically just employing the Stanley knife method, but with inherent
protection over slicing the conductor insulation. And if you have a tough
old bit of cable, slicing both sides makes it easier to remove the sheath
sometimes.

Cheers

Tim

Huge wrote:
On 2008-10-12, John Rumm wrote:
ad wrote:

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?

Part P.

Can't see it makes any real difference. Unless you surface wire stuff, a
cable date stamp is not visible anyway in the vast majority of cases.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Huge coughed up some electrons that declared:

On 2008-10-13, John Rumm wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2008-10-12, John Rumm wrote:
ad wrote:

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?

Part P.

Can't see it makes any real difference. Unless you surface wire stuff, a
cable date stamp is not visible anyway in the vast majority of cases.

Just a suggestion as to the reason people are interested.



I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp

Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new (post
2002) or not, despite being obviously not...

Tim S wrote:
Huge coughed up some electrons that declared:

On 2008-10-13, John Rumm wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2008-10-12, John Rumm wrote:
ad wrote:

Just bought 25 metres of 1.5 m to 'move' the lighting cable in the
loft out of the way of
my new 270 mm of loft insulation. The drum is stamped 170608 but the
cable
does not have a date. There is a code after 'BASEC' of 078 but this is
after the
date stamp on the drum. HAs anyone else noticed this. PS It's not very
nice cable,
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?
Part P.
Can't see it makes any real difference. Unless you surface wire stuff, a
cable date stamp is not visible anyway in the vast majority of cases.
Just a suggestion as to the reason people are interested.



I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp

Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new (post
2002) or not, despite being obviously not...

Or, when you move, just answer any such questions with "I don't know".
--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp

Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new (post
2002) or not, despite being obviously not...

Does this mean in theory you need some sort of 'pro' to replace a damaged
double glazing panel?

--
*Born free - taxed to death *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:40:56 +0100, Owain
wrote:

Huge wrote:
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?
Part P.

You can always do like-for-like replacement after Part P with new cable.

I'm very fortunate that in 1932 someone wired my kitchen with about 20
sockets :-)

Stuff this Part P.

I have no intention of selling my house and it's nobody else's
business how I wire any electrics, plumb any piping or do any
(internal) alterations.

I seriously can't see why it's any business of this guvmint what
colour scheme I adopt in my house.

After I'm gone any perceived problems of selling the house lie with
the executors, who are solicitors and I can't give a damn - I'll be in
a box 6 feet (or should that be 1·8288 metres?) under...

--
Frank Erskine

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
Stuff this Part P.

I have no intention of selling my house and it's nobody else's
business how I wire any electrics, plumb any piping or do any
(internal) alterations.

Absolutely. And I'd guess any work you do is likely to be of as good or
better a standard as someone with the right bit of paperwork.

I seriously can't see why it's any business of this guvmint what
colour scheme I adopt in my house.

After I'm gone any perceived problems of selling the house lie with
the executors, who are solicitors and I can't give a damn - I'll be in
a box 6 feet (or should that be 1·8288 metres?) under...

--
*All generalizations are false.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Owain coughed up some electrons that declared:

Huge wrote:
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?
Part P.

You can always do like-for-like replacement after Part P with new cable.

I'm very fortunate that in 1932 someone wired my kitchen with about 20
sockets :-)

Owain

So I hope you are still maintaining like for like with 5A and 15A sockets!

Frank Erskine coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:40:56 +0100, Owain
wrote:

Huge wrote:
Why the interest in the lack of date stamp anyway?
Part P.

You can always do like-for-like replacement after Part P with new cable.

I'm very fortunate that in 1932 someone wired my kitchen with about 20
sockets :-)

Stuff this Part P.

I have no intention of selling my house and it's nobody else's
business how I wire any electrics, plumb any piping or do any
(internal) alterations.

I seriously can't see why it's any business of this guvmint what
colour scheme I adopt in my house.

After I'm gone any perceived problems of selling the house lie with
the executors, who are solicitors and I can't give a damn - I'll be in
a box 6 feet (or should that be 1·8288 metres?) under...


I'm doing Part P under a building notice partly because it's a full rewire
and partly because I've got so many other jobs that officially need
notification.

After that, I don't suppose I'll be much bothered for the odd job. I
certainly wouldn't bother with any of the Part L ******** if it were just
that involved.

Oh - and if some ******* ever tries to make plumbing notifiable ("bluewater"
or "clearwater" (I forget) scheme was mentioned as a possible pilot to this
by someone I met last weekend) then, well that will be it; they can stuff
the whole bloody lot then!

Cheers

Tim

In uk.d-i-y, Owain wrote:
You can always do like-for-like replacement after Part P with new
cable.

I'm very fortunate that in 1932 someone wired my kitchen with about 20
sockets :-)

You should open a museum featuring the world's first domestic ring main.

--
Mike Barnes

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp

Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new (post
2002) or not, despite being obviously not...

Does this mean in theory you need some sort of 'pro' to replace a damaged
double glazing panel?

No, you can "repair" a window to your hearts content without any
encroachment of regulatory hangers on.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp

Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new
(post 2002) or not, despite being obviously not...

Does this mean in theory you need some sort of 'pro' to replace a
damaged double glazing panel?

No, you can "repair" a window to your hearts content without any
encroachment of regulatory hangers on.

Right. So if anyone queries just when a window was fitted because of date
stamps you can say you replaced all the panels after seal failure.

All is fair in love and war...

--
*Too many clicks spoil the browse *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd like to be able to buy double glazed units with no date stamp
Despite that, still seen surveyors asking if the windows were new
(post 2002) or not, despite being obviously not...
Does this mean in theory you need some sort of 'pro' to replace a
damaged double glazing panel?

No, you can "repair" a window to your hearts content without any
encroachment of regulatory hangers on.

Right. So if anyone queries just when a window was fitted because of date
stamps you can say you replaced all the panels after seal failure.

All is fair in love and war...

Indeed... and replaced the frame a week before due to uPVC rot ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

neverwas wrote:
My favorite piece of legal speak, "Image for illustrative purposes
only" WTF do they intend that to mean?

WYSINNWYG
(what you see is not necessarily what you get)

It's usually because they use one picture to illustrate all variants of a
connector, from 2 way to 20 way. In the paper catalogue all are shown
together under one picture, but they're listed separately in the online
version. It's so you can't complain that you order a 10 way because that's
what was in the picture, when the description is telling you that part
number is a 3 way.

Theo

In uk.d-i-y, Theo Markettos wrote:
neverwas wrote:
My favorite piece of legal speak, "Image for illustrative purposes
only" WTF do they intend that to mean?

WYSINNWYG
(what you see is not necessarily what you get)

It's usually because they use one picture to illustrate all variants of a
connector, from 2 way to 20 way. In the paper catalogue all are shown
together under one picture, but they're listed separately in the online
version. It's so you can't complain that you order a 10 way because that's
what was in the picture, when the description is telling you that part
number is a 3 way.

That would be OK if the words "Image for illustrative purposes only"
approximated even slightly to the meaning that was intended. But they
don't. And complain you can.

--
Mike Barnes