We are in the process of installing a stove. Its a Morsø 1430 Clean
Heat Squirrel.
If it is recessed under the chimney lintel, how will that effect the
efficiency of the heat?
Will the room take longer to warm up as more heat goes into the
surrounding chimney parts?
Will this heat then go on a slow release when the stove is out?
Will more heat go through the register plate/adaptor to my clay lined
chimney?

On 6 Oct, 20:31, misterroy wrote:
We are in the process of installing a stove. Its a Morsø 1430 Clean
Heat Squirrel.
If it is recessed under the chimney lintel, how will that effect the
efficiency of the heat?

Not easily avoidable unless you have a massive house or are willing to
rethink/redesign/rebuild I know but:-

I expect you will hamper the efficiency of the "hot metal radiator
with a fire inside" aka stove by limiting the amount of air that can
circulate easily around it and thus warm up the room quickly using
least fuel.
It depends what size fire place you are fitting it into and what
physical size the stove is - hence how mcuh free air the stove has to
work with...

Will the room take longer to warm up as more heat goes into the
surrounding chimney parts?

Yes, for that and above reasons.

Will this heat then go on a slow release when the stove is out?

probably - the issue is *where* will the heat be released to? i.e.
what's on the other side of the fireplace - a cold dark winter night
or another room? if the latter then not so bad - if the former you
could do with adding some form of insulation.

Will more heat go through the register plate/adaptor to my clay lined
chimney?

well yes but they'd be getting warm anyhow

If you have a gap betwixt the clay lining and the masonry of chimney
fill it with vermiculite right to the top - means chimney pot off but
VAST advantages in doing so over and above the heat loss into the gap
you mention..

Cold uninsulated flues (whatever they are constructed of) spell bad
news when filled with lower temp. stove gases - the tasr and nasties
tend to condense, build or fur up, reduce effective diameter and cause
an increased fire risk - compounded if long (tall building).
Particularly bad news if no flue - just an old "real fire" chimney
with a foot of flue pipe stuck up into it...then masonry attacked by
flue gases leading to dangerous building fabric; flue gases getting
into building, bedrooms etc ~ carbon monoxide et al = death etc!

You could ask your installer to put some vermiculite onto the top of
the register plate before sealing it - assuming there is a gap in the
first place?

You could aks about a "heat shield" to deflect heat out into the room
rather than dwell under the register plate....

hope it helps
Jim (24degC in front of mine tonight!)