I've got a shed going up next week, and I intend to insulate most of
the inside (a single skin partition will seperate out the other
section)

Now, the entire structure will be of dip treated 2x3 framing with 22mm
cladding on top (excused the mixed metrics!), on the inside of which
I'll be putting a insulating polystyrene layer topped off with
plasterboard and then a layer of plaster.

The entire building will be 18'x10' with a 13'x10' room being
insulated.

My main concern at the moment is how the plasterboard will stand up to
the expansion and contraction of the wood?

Now, my questions.

1) is this the right way to go?
2) How should I attach the plasterboard to the framing?
3) Would 75mm polystyrene be about right/too much/too little?
4) How should I run a lighting ring given the PVC/polystyrene issues?

Can you reply to the group please, I don't read the email address
provided above!

S Casey wrote:

I've got a shed going up next week, and I intend to insulate most of
the inside (a single skin partition will seperate out the other
section)

Now, the entire structure will be of dip treated 2x3 framing with 22mm
cladding on top (excused the mixed metrics!), on the inside of which
I'll be putting a insulating polystyrene layer topped off with
plasterboard and then a layer of plaster.

The entire building will be 18'x10' with a 13'x10' room being
insulated.

My main concern at the moment is how the plasterboard will stand up to
the expansion and contraction of the wood?



Not too badly. My whole house is made this way, and its more flexure and
the initial shrinkage of the wall that has proved the problem. Tape the
joints well before skimming, and don't be tempted to try and use all the
plasterboard scraps. Board is cheap, making good splits later is not.


Now, my questions.

1) is this the right way to go?


Yes, tho I would use Celotex. not poloystyrene, for better fire safety
in terms of flammability and noxoious fumes. Use fool backed
plasterboard with polystyrene, to form vapour barrier.


2) How should I attach the plasterboard to the framing?


Nail it on carefully with big headed clouts. I have had zero success
with 'plasterboard screws' - they rip the top surface and the
plasterboard comes loose. YMMV


3) Would 75mm polystyrene be about right/too much/too little?


As much as possible. 75MM celotex even better.


4) How should I run a lighting ring given the PVC/polystyrene issues?


Dont use polystyrene, use celotex. Or Rockwool. Its as good as polystrene.

Tip. Run cables early, and decide where sockets etc are to go, mark on
studs.


Its probably better to have cables at the back behind insulation, wheer
they won't get nailed as you put up plasterboard.

Put up insulation. and if using celotex use the foil tape to seal. Bring
sires top teh front through cutouts, if you intend to use drywall
sockets or put in noggins to take steel boxes. Insyall boxes and coil up
cables inside.

NOW GET A FOAM GUN AND SEAL UP EVEYTHING to draught proof COMPLETELY.
Wish I had.

nail up plasterboard.

Make cutouts for wires and pull through. Fit drywall sockets if using.

tape joimnts with scriom, Skim and decorate

Install sockets.






Can you reply to the group please, I don't read the email address
provided above!

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Not too badly. My whole house is made this way, and its more flexure and
the initial shrinkage of the wall that has proved the problem. Tape the
joints well before skimming, and don't be tempted to try and use all the
plasterboard scraps. Board is cheap, making good splits later is not.

Out of interest, how is your house clad? Brick? Timber?

--
Grunff

I've got a shed going up next week, and I intend to insulate most of
the inside (a single skin partition will seperate out the other
section)

Sounds very nice. Only things I would suggest a

1. Use 50mm of celotex. For a shed, 75mm would be overkill. This enables you
to leave a 25mm ventilation gap between the outside skin and the
plasterboard. 75mm would have the slight advantage of allowing cross layed
boards to reduce cold bridging through the studs (and possible condensation
effects), but for a shed, I doubt it is really necessary. It will be as warm
and comfortable as a house which ever you do.

2. Don't bother with the plaster skim. Just tape and fill taper edge boards.

3. Insulate the whole lot and then separate out the partition. Insulate the
partition wall if you want a temperature difference across the rooms. This
gives you the flexibility to remove the partition in the future to get a
bigger room. It also helps to ensure that the uninsulated end doesn't rot
before the rest of the building.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

2. Don't bother with the plaster skim.
Just tape and fill taper edge boards.

Is there a recommended product for doing this, or will any of the
standard fillers do?

Bert
http://www.bertcoules.co.uk

Is there a recommended product for doing this, or will any of the
standard fillers do?

It will be called something like "Plasterboard Jointing Filler" or such
like. There are many brands. You need to tape it first using plasterboard
jointing tape. Otherwise there WILL be cracks. Don't forget to joint the top
of the boards to the ceiling, too.

Christian.

Easi-Fill is a good jointing filler and easy to rub down..... IMHO
Nick

Grunff wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Not too badly. My whole house is made this way, and its more flexure
and the initial shrinkage of the wall that has proved the problem.
Tape the joints well before skimming, and don't be tempted to try and
use all the plasterboard scraps. Board is cheap, making good splits
later is not.


Out of interest, how is your house clad? Brick? Timber?


Totally timber, clad in marine ply, paper, air gap/battens, metal lathe
and render, in that order.