I put a new solid concrete floor in the kitchen. Tke kitchen is still
in a raw state, all unfinished.
Currently, I've left it so that the blue dpm when it gets to the edges
of the floor rises up loosely at to about 4 inches above floor
level. The DPC in the walls is about 3 inches above floor level. So
there is a decent overlap.

What is the correct way of marrying the DPM and the DPC up so that the
damp-proof protection is continuous from one to the other?

I was thinking to fit dab and dot plasterboard to the bottom 12" of
the wall, leaving the lower 4 inches unfixed, covering the vertical
bit of the dpm, and the dpc, without sticking to it. I could seal
the very bottom edge to the floor tiles.

The plan is to have the lower part of the finishedkitchen plastered
down to the floor without any skirting.


Thanks

Tony

On 7 Sep, 07:38, tonyjeffs wrote:
I put a new solid concrete floor in the kitchen. Tke kitchen is still
in a raw state, all unfinished.
Currently, I've left it so that the blue dpm when it gets to the edges
of the floor rises up loosely at *to about 4 inches above floor
level. *The DPC in the walls is about 3 inches above floor level. So
there is a decent overlap.

What is the correct way of marrying the DPM and the DPC up so that the
damp-proof protection is continuous from one to the other?

I was thinking to fit dab and dot plasterboard to the bottom 12" of
the wall, leaving the lower 4 inches unfixed, covering the vertical
bit of the dpm, and the dpc, *without sticking *to it. * I could seal
the very bottom edge to the floor tiles.

The plan is to have the lower part of the finishedkitchen plastered
down to the floor without any skirting.

Thanks

Tony

Dear Tony
I used a sealant to stick the dpm to the walls with an overlap and put
the skirting over the top ensuring that it did not penetrate the dpm.
(it was a 9" high one!) Even if you have to use a screw or two through
the membrane in its upper parts that is not the end of the world as it
is not likely to be a problem if you use a non ferrous fixing.
Chris

tonyjeffs wrote:
I put a new solid concrete floor in the kitchen. Tke kitchen is still
in a raw state, all unfinished.
Currently, I've left it so that the blue dpm when it gets to the edges
of the floor rises up loosely at to about 4 inches above floor
level. The DPC in the walls is about 3 inches above floor level. So
there is a decent overlap.

What is the correct way of marrying the DPM and the DPC up so that the
damp-proof protection is continuous from one to the other?

I was thinking to fit dab and dot plasterboard to the bottom 12" of
the wall, leaving the lower 4 inches unfixed, covering the vertical
bit of the dpm, and the dpc, without sticking to it. I could seal
the very bottom edge to the floor tiles.

The plan is to have the lower part of the finishedkitchen plastered
down to the floor without any skirting.


Thanks

Tony
Unless you are in a swamp, a damp proof course is more about making sure
that the 1% of the damp that does get in is well less than the output of
a steamy pan of boiling pasta, so that normal heating and ventilation
can cope.

Just plaster down to the concrete..you might want to glue the flap of
DPM down with something like a contact adhesive first, and maybe tack a
bit of mesh over it to give the bonding plaster a chance to key properly.


I would be chary of running plaster alone down right to the floor
though: I did that here, and it looks like ****..gets kicked about
something rotten: Mind you where kitchen units go, its not an issue. In
the few places where I have cut tiles in half and made a skirting out of
them, it looks a whole lot better..

On Sep 7, 8:50*am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
...
I would be chary of running plaster alone down right to the floor
though: I did that here, and it looks like ****..gets kicked about
something rotten: Mind you where kitchen units go, its not an issue. In
the few places where I have cut tiles in half and made a skirting out of
them, it looks a whole lot better..- Hide quoted text -


Point taken. I'll maybe make a skirting out of cut floor tiles. I can
weigh it up when I get there.

Thanks to all for suggestions

Tony