Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

Scott

Scott wrote:
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

Scott

4 off 50w spots is 200w, which is a lot if on all day.
Why not have more low energy rather than changing to halogen??

We put 6 off 9w mini spots in our kitchen. OK for us.

Scott wrote:
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

Scott

We have a centre lamp - with a compact fluorescent. But a lot of the
time we don't use it.

Most of the light comes from some Slim Linkable Fluorescent Fittings,
plonked on top of wall cupboards. Must get around to making it look
better, and maybe add a couple more, but the amount of light, its
colour, the instant start, and the effect are all pretty good. We only
use the centre light for maximum lighting effect - and when we just need
the light for a moment.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Kitchen_Lighting/Linkable_Flourescent_Fitting/index.html

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is the
extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption low but
give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

The easy option is a five foot fluorescent fitting.
They use about 60W vs. the 18W but you get a lot more light.
A bit utilitarian though.

Scott

On Sat, 06 Sep 2008 20:03:40 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb
afair, suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the
day. Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its
not that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those
spiral energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a
better option.

Any advice appreciated.

The easy option is a five foot fluorescent fitting. They use about 60W
vs. the 18W but you get a lot more light. A bit utilitarian though.



Been there, done that.

Since then I've replaced the lighting with LV halogens on dimmers
together with a 2D fitting in circular glass shade at each end. The
halogens look great but her ladyship prefers to use the 2Ds most of the
time! They are certainly more effective than the fluorescent fitting and
look far better.

--
Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net
Filtering everything posted from googlegroups to kill spam.

On Sat, 06 Sep 2008 18:20:54 +0100, Scott wrote:

I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not that great
- room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral energsy saving
bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

The equvalence ratings for CFLs are generally a bit optomistic even when
new and their light output falls as they age as well. The simple and quick
solution is to whack in a new bigger CFL say an 18W (nominal 100W ish
equiv) and see how that works out.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

It may give you a shed more light but is it coming from the right place?
In a kitchen you want the light on the work surfaces so you can see what
you are doing. With a central ceiling point source light (ordinary or CFL
bulb) and work surfaces around the walls no matter what you do you will
always be working in your own shadow. If you have cupboards above the
worksurface fit slim soft source lights under them.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Scott wrote:

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Feed it via a movement detector like
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DNCEFLPIR.html
so you don't waste energy when there is nobody present.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

In article ,
Scott wrote:
I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

You get the most light for your money from fluorescent lights - either
strip or the compact sort.

--
*Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great - room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is the
extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption low but
give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

We've got a similar setup, and we've put a couple of low profile
fluorescents under the wall cupboards so that we can direct better light
onto worksurfaces where when we need it. These are individually switched so
we only use the ones we need. Our cooker has a high level grill with its own
light which supplements things. When you're working at the surfaces, you
don't get the direct glare from the lights, but it makes a big difference as
effective 'task' lighting without adding to the cost of ambient lighting
(though you could try a 22W replacement CFL)
NB - It's a small kitchen and not one of these 'heart of the home' places
where 'show' is important, so we can get away with the ambient being a bit
lower than it could be.

I've done the same for my MIL and she thinks its great.

OG wrote:


We've got a similar setup, and we've put a couple of low profile
fluorescents under the wall cupboards so that we can direct better light
onto worksurfaces where when we need it. These are individually switched
so we only use the ones we need. Our cooker has a high level grill with
its own light which supplements things. When you're working at the
surfaces, you don't get the direct glare from the lights, but it makes a
big difference as effective 'task' lighting without adding to the cost
of ambient lighting (though you could try a 22W replacement CFL)
NB - It's a small kitchen and not one of these 'heart of the home'
places where 'show' is important, so we can get away with the ambient
being a bit lower than it could be.

I've done the same for my MIL and she thinks its great.


We had until recently only low-profile fluorescent units under the
cupboards around the kitchen supplemented by 2 x 20w halogen spotlights
in the hood over the hob. The fluorescents are very bright and quick to
reach full brightness. Also they do not create reflections. I have
resisted all attempts from SWMBO to fit ceiling lights for about 3 years
by maintaining that the existing lighting is good, even possibly great.
I hate halogen downlighters - bright spots of light creating darker
shadows etc - and wanted to fit only big multi-reflector fluorescent
units to the ceiling - like the ones I salvaged from my office re-fit
;-) on account of the even flood of light they give. In the end we
compromised with a row of surface mount dome lights from John Lewis -
fairly nasty but approximately contemporaneous with the rest of the
house in design terms. They do give a fairly flat light and are shallow
enough not to obstruct passersby - our ceiling are fairly low. However,
she insisted on low energy bulbs :-( As a consequence I had to move
each bulb socket towards the edge of the unit to bring the lit part of
the bulb into the centre of the dome because of the sizeable base to the
lamp.

The only downside of the low-profile fluorescents is their noticeably
short life - perhaps 12 months - for both tube and unit. This may be
because of my tendency to switch them on only briefly.

Richard

"Richard Savage" wrote in message
...
OG wrote:


We've got a similar setup, and we've put a couple of low profile
fluorescents under the wall cupboards so that we can direct better light
onto worksurfaces where when we need it. These are individually switched
so we only use the ones we need. Our cooker has a high level grill with
its own light which supplements things. When you're working at the
surfaces, you don't get the direct glare from the lights, but it makes a
big difference as effective 'task' lighting without adding to the cost of
ambient lighting (though you could try a 22W replacement CFL)
NB - It's a small kitchen and not one of these 'heart of the home' places
where 'show' is important, so we can get away with the ambient being a
bit lower than it could be.

I've done the same for my MIL and she thinks its great.


We had until recently only low-profile fluorescent units under the
cupboards around the kitchen supplemented by 2 x 20w halogen spotlights in
the hood over the hob. The fluorescents are very bright and quick to
reach full brightness. Also they do not create reflections. I have
resisted all attempts from SWMBO to fit ceiling lights for about 3 years
by maintaining that the existing lighting is good, even possibly great. I
hate halogen downlighters

So do I, I can just about understand why people put then in Kitchens and
bathrooms, but no understanding at all as to why people put them in living
areas

tim

In message , tim.....
writes

"Richard Savage" wrote in message
.. .
OG wrote:


We've got a similar setup, and we've put a couple of low profile
fluorescents under the wall cupboards so that we can direct better light
onto worksurfaces where when we need it. These are individually switched
so we only use the ones we need. Our cooker has a high level grill with
its own light which supplements things. When you're working at the
surfaces, you don't get the direct glare from the lights, but it makes a
big difference as effective 'task' lighting without adding to the cost of
ambient lighting (though you could try a 22W replacement CFL)
NB - It's a small kitchen and not one of these 'heart of the home' places
where 'show' is important, so we can get away with the ambient being a
bit lower than it could be.

I've done the same for my MIL and she thinks its great.


We had until recently only low-profile fluorescent units under the
cupboards around the kitchen supplemented by 2 x 20w halogen spotlights in
the hood over the hob. The fluorescents are very bright and quick to
reach full brightness. Also they do not create reflections. I have
resisted all attempts from SWMBO to fit ceiling lights for about 3 years
by maintaining that the existing lighting is good, even possibly great. I
hate halogen downlighters

So do I, I can just about understand why people put then in Kitchens and
bathrooms, but no understanding at all as to why people put them in living
areas

There was an article on countryfile today which I caught the tail end of
at Hawkstone Park - they can't use them because of the excessive
ultra-violet they emit


--
geoff

On Sep 6, 6:20*pm, Scott wrote:
Hi All

I am looking at changing our kitchen light which is a single bulb afair,
suplimented by a wndow with some direct direct light some of the day.
Currently, I have a low engery bulb in there and to be honest, its not
that great *- room always seems dull. I think its one of those spiral
energsy saving bulbs - equivilent to 60w of a normal bulb.

So, I am looking at getting one of the bat lights with 3 or 4 *50 W
halgogen bulbs on.

Now, I gather this will give me a shed load more light, my concern is
the extra amount of electricity. I want to keep my engery consumption
low but give us better light than we have now.

I dont wnat to spend a fortune, bt of course ther could well be a better
option.

Any advice appreciated.

Scott


Several options:
Replace the CFL with higher wattage.
Add cfl lighting under the eye level cabinets
If there's a gap between cabinet tops and ceiling, add hidden CFL
lighing above the cabinets

Finally, if you want the look of halogens without the power guzzle and
excess summertime heating, just use 5w halogen downlighters in
addition to providing most of the light elsewhere. 5w, not 50w.


NT