Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know
better...

Thanks folks

I've always used and old handsaw, it works fine.

Cut with a panel saw, clean up with a file. Brace the side of the saw
blade against the upturned thumb of your left hand to help keep it
square to the cut.

In article ,
GMM writes:
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know
better...

I use a tenon saw, or whatever similar comes to hand.
(No, I haven't tried an angle grinder;-)
I debur with a stanley knife (running the blade across
the edge to be deburred, not slicing into the plastic).
The edges are normally too far away from the ground to
be seen or concealed anyway, but you don't want bur left
where it might catch dirt or dislodge seals during assembly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article
,
GMM writes:
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a
somewhat diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a
tenon saw which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to
make sure that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but
that isn't always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there
has a much better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat
joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might
know better...

I use a tenon saw, or whatever similar comes to hand.
(No, I haven't tried an angle grinder;-)
I debur with a stanley knife (running the blade across
the edge to be deburred, not slicing into the plastic).
The edges are normally too far away from the ground to
be seen or concealed anyway, but you don't want bur left
where it might catch dirt or dislodge seals during assembly.

Standard mitre box isn't big enough, but some scrap timber screwed into a
similar shape with flush ends works well. I use a fine tooth handsaw, de
burr with sandpaper.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Aug 8, 11:10 am, GMM wrote:
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know
better...

Thanks folks

Full size hacksaw works, but you have to mark right round and cut a
groove all round before cutting through. Good for very neat cuts, but
slow.

Angle grinder (9" preferably) is good for soil pipe, but overkill for
gutter.

Old saw is the best compromise between speed and neatness that I've
found. Very occasionally catches and breaks the pipe though, so if
it's the last piece, I use a hacksaw.

A

"GMM" wrote in message
...
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know
better...

Thanks folks

I use one of these,

http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/76675.jpg

works for me.

HTH

John

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 03:10:48 -0700 (PDT), GMM
wrote:

Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know
better...

Thanks folks

I use a tenon saw and it is the best in my opinion, with more control
and good line.

"GMM" wrote in message
...
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably
wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a
somewhat
diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw
which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure
that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't
always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much
better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint.
I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the
square
stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might
know
better...

Thanks folks

Angle grinder with a thin (1mm) disk works very well. I've just
completed a large undergrond drainage / downpipe and guttering project
and got myself a battery operated angle grinder for in situ cutting.
Made things very easy. Wrap wide masking tape where you need to cut to
give a good line then just follow it. Same grinder used very carefuly
can taper pipe ends prior to insertion, and also cut notches in
guttering if your fittings need them (not all do).

AWEM

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 03:10:48 -0700 (PDT) Gmm wrote :
Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?

When I was fitting the white hex/square stuff I used my mitre saw -
gave a factory standard 90 degree cut every time

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk