I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

But do the supporting distances (600mm preferred, 900mm max) still apply
to a wall with so little weight on it?

If so, is there a way of not running Acros down to the ground on the
outside? The area is scaffolded - would this take the weight? Or could I
use needles through the lower wall which will be removed for the new
window as well as above where the lintel would go? Or is there something
custom made for this I could hire?

Just as an aside I had the same job done to the floor below, and the
builders didn't bother with any supports at all - simply smashed the hole
through. They reckoned they'd done it hundreds of times without probs. But
if I do that it will be the humndreds plus one - knowing my luck.

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

--
*I brake for no apparent reason.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Are you down to the brick in the room were the lintel is going?

I'd tackle this like so....

I'd take out the run of internal bricks were the lintel is going to go,shove
the lintel in the hole as much of it will fit and support it internally for
safety.
Then take out the outside course of bricks and internall push the lintel to
fit with the wall outside.

Job done.

In article ,
George wrote:
Are you down to the brick in the room were the lintel is going?

Yes.

I'd tackle this like so....

I'd take out the run of internal bricks were the lintel is going to
go,shove the lintel in the hole as much of it will fit and support it
internally for safety.

Snag with that is it's a 'solid' brick wall - made up of headers and
stretchers.

Then take out the outside course of bricks and
internall push the lintel to fit with the wall outside.

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Dave Plowman London SW
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On Thu, 15 May 2008 14:13:54 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

But do the supporting distances (600mm preferred, 900mm max) still apply
to a wall with so little weight on it?

If so, is there a way of not running Acros down to the ground on the
outside? The area is scaffolded - would this take the weight? Or could I
use needles through the lower wall which will be removed for the new
window as well as above where the lintel would go? Or is there something
custom made for this I could hire?

Just as an aside I had the same job done to the floor below, and the
builders didn't bother with any supports at all - simply smashed the hole
through. They reckoned they'd done it hundreds of times without probs. But
if I do that it will be the humndreds plus one - knowing my luck.

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

==================================
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/strongboy

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall to be propped, which could be inside the house.
Obviously you need to ensure the Acrow is standing on a firm base to
spread its load; ie on joists not just floorboards.

David

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a
2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half
or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall to be propped, which could be inside the house.
Obviously you need to ensure the Acrow is standing on a firm base to
spread its load; ie on joists not just floorboards.

David

Whats the acrow for and where does it go?

On 16/05/2008 08:23, George wrote:

"Lobster" wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall

Whats the acrow for and where does it go?

If you read that link, it ought to be clear.

On 15 May, 14:13, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

But do the supporting distances (600mm preferred, 900mm max) still apply
to a wall with so little weight on it?

If so, is there a way of not running Acros down to the ground on the
outside? The area is scaffolded - would this take the weight? Or could I
use needles through the lower wall which will be removed for the new
window as well as above where the lintel would go? Or is there something
custom made for this I could hire?

*Just as an aside I had the same job done to the floor below, and the
builders didn't bother with any supports at all - simply smashed the hole
through. They reckoned they'd done it hundreds of times without probs. But
if I do that it will be the humndreds plus one - knowing my luck.

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

--
*I brake for no apparent reason.

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dear Dave
Two acrows 'on edge' opposite either side on a header at about 1 m
centres will be fine if you don't have tallboys.

If it is Victorian, it will most likley be lime plaster and that
sticks better and is more flexible than cement. Just dont breathe too
heavily as you put it in! (smile)
Chris

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
et...
On 16/05/2008 08:23, George wrote:

"Lobster" wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall

Whats the acrow for and where does it go?

If you read that link, it ought to be clear.

I have read the lnk,but in Mrploughmans situation they're not needed as its
only twelve courses of bricks above ie its not the ground floor area.
The strongboys is all thats needed,if the builders can knock a hole out in
the ground floor without any props and any structural damage? then what
MrPloughman is attempting will be a doddle but he's getting too worried
about it.

In article ,
George wrote:
I have read the lnk,but in Mrploughmans situation they're not needed as
its only twelve courses of bricks above ie its not the ground floor
area. The strongboys is all thats needed,if the builders can knock a
hole out in the ground floor without any props and any structural
damage? then what MrPloughman is attempting will be a doddle but he's
getting too worried about it.

It could be the fact that a building has just collapsed round here while
they were excavating the cellar. ;-)

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Lobster wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a
2000mm wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new.
The wall is Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's
only about 12 courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go -
and the top half or so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a
roof terrace. I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall to be propped, which could be inside the house.
Obviously you need to ensure the Acrow is standing on a firm base to
spread its load; ie on joists not just floorboards.

What I'd really like is a sort of double ended Strongboy - remove a couple
of bricks from where the sill will be and support above where the lintel
will go off that. All from the outside. Does that sound feasible? It's
rather a long way to go down to the ground - and I'd have trouble
transporting Acros that big. And lifting them. ;-)

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Lobster wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a
2000mm wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new.
The wall is Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's
only about 12 courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go -
and the top half or so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a
roof terrace. I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

If you use Strongboys as reccommended in the above, you only need Acrow
on one side of the wall to be propped, which could be inside the house.
Obviously you need to ensure the Acrow is standing on a firm base to
spread its load; ie on joists not just floorboards.

What I'd really like is a sort of double ended Strongboy - remove a couple
of bricks from where the sill will be and support above where the lintel
will go off that. All from the outside. Does that sound feasible? It's
rather a long way to go down to the ground - and I'd have trouble
transporting Acros that big. And lifting them. ;-)

If you knock out a brick below the lintel and put a 2x4 through and then do
the same above and then wedge a 4x2 vertically between them either side it
should transfer the weight and enable you to remove the bricks between.
It should do it with ease if there are only 8 courses to support, however do
make sure its not supporting the roof as well.

You need one every few bricks BTW.

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
What I'd really like is a sort of double ended Strongboy - remove a
couple of bricks from where the sill will be and support above where
the lintel will go off that. All from the outside. Does that sound
feasible? It's rather a long way to go down to the ground - and I'd
have trouble transporting Acros that big. And lifting them. ;-)

If you knock out a brick below the lintel and put a 2x4 through and then
do the same above and then wedge a 4x2 vertically between them either
side it should transfer the weight and enable you to remove the bricks
between.

I've been down the hire shop and got 4 strongboys and two short acros. I'd
not seen strongboys before and was worried they could tilt if anything
moved - but they support themselves on the acro to prevent this so I think
I'll be ok.

It should do it with ease if there are only 8 courses to
support, however do make sure its not supporting the roof as well.

No - the roof terrace joists go from side to side, and the window is in
the end wall.

Sorry to be such a wimp about this ;-)

--
*There's two theories to arguing with a woman. Neither one works *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote:
On 15 May, 14:13, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

But do the supporting distances (600mm preferred, 900mm max) still apply
to a wall with so little weight on it?

If so, is there a way of not running Acros down to the ground on the
outside? The area is scaffolded - would this take the weight? Or could I
use needles through the lower wall which will be removed for the new
window as well as above where the lintel would go? Or is there something
custom made for this I could hire?

Just as an aside I had the same job done to the floor below, and the
builders didn't bother with any supports at all - simply smashed the hole
through. They reckoned they'd done it hundreds of times without probs. But
if I do that it will be the humndreds plus one - knowing my luck.

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

--
*I brake for no apparent reason.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dear Dave
Two acrows 'on edge' opposite either side on a header at about 1 m
centres will be fine if you don't have tallboys.

If it is Victorian, it will most likley be lime plaster and that
sticks better and is more flexible than cement. Just dont breathe too
heavily as you put it in! (smile)
Chris

Coming from a place of near complete ignorance, why not use two cheap
bottle jacks?

Rob

On 16 May, 16:42, Rob wrote:
wrote:
On 15 May, 14:13, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I'm going to replace an existing window - about 600mm wide - with a 2000mm
wide one, the existing opening being to one side of the new. The wall is
Victorian solid brick. It's on the first floor and there's only about 12
courses of bricks above where the new lintel will go - and the top half or
so of that recent work as a new parapet wall to a roof terrace.
I've read:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/OPENING_A_WALL.htm

But do the supporting distances (600mm preferred, 900mm max) still apply
to a wall with so little weight on it?

If so, is there a way of not running Acros down to the ground on the
outside? The area is scaffolded - would this take the weight? Or could I
use needles through the lower wall which will be removed for the new
window as well as above where the lintel would go? Or is there something
custom made for this I could hire?

Just as an aside I had the same job done to the floor below, and the
builders didn't bother with any supports at all - simply smashed the hole
through. They reckoned they'd done it hundreds of times without probs. But
if I do that it will be the humndreds plus one - knowing my luck.

The other thing is the room the new window's going into is in pretty good
condition so I need to minimise any internal damage.

--
*I brake for no apparent reason.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dear Dave
Two acrows 'on edge' opposite either side on a header at about 1 m
centres will be fine if you don't have tallboys.

If it is Victorian, it will most likley be lime plaster and that
sticks better and is more flexible than cement. Just dont breathe too
heavily as you put it in! (smile)
Chris

Coming from a place of near complete ignorance, why not use two cheap
bottle jacks?

Rob

What is the amount of force you should usually put on the brickwork
when supporting it on acrows (screw-turn) or indeed a bottlejack ?
Presumably just a little more than just supporting it.
Simon.

In article
,
sm_jamieson wrote:
Coming from a place of near complete ignorance, why not use two cheap
bottle jacks?

Rob

What is the amount of force you should usually put on the brickwork
when supporting it on acrows (screw-turn) or indeed a bottlejack ?
Presumably just a little more than just supporting it.

Bottle jacks don't usually have the height needed. The smallest acros go
from about 1 metre. Larger ones go floor to ceiling. They have a screw
thread which gives about a foot of adjustment, and a hole and peg system
for larger coarser adjustment - like a car axle stand. But you don't use a
an acro to jack something up really - just get it solid before letting a
load settle on it.

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Dave Plowman London SW
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