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Default Ordering door frame timber

Hi all.
I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door.
I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive.
On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its
scots pine)
with a pre-cut rebate.
My frame has sidelights and a toplight.
Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order
non-rebated lengths for the timbers
that won't form the actual door frame?

Thanks.

Arthur



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Default Ordering door frame timber

On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2"
wrote:

Hi all.
I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door.
I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive.
On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its
scots pine)
with a pre-cut rebate.
My frame has sidelights and a toplight.
Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order
non-rebated lengths for the timbers
that won't form the actual door frame?

Thanks.

Arthur



i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders
and a water bar
however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it
yourself
how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there?
seems a bit heavy for a door frame
but if youre happy with it the rebate will be useful for forming the
glazing pockets
the cill and the transom at the top of the door should be full frame
width so the frame is stiff when fixed
and no butt joints
and do a thorough survey of the structural opening
nothing worse than carefully making the frame only to find it wont fit
because te structure is out of plumb or level

breeze
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Default Ordering door frame timber


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2"
wrote:

Hi all.
I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door.
I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive.
On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its
scots pine)
with a pre-cut rebate.
My frame has sidelights and a toplight.
Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order
non-rebated lengths for the timbers
that won't form the actual door frame?

Thanks.

Arthur



i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders
and a water bar
however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it
yourself
how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there?
seems a bit heavy for a door frame
but if youre happy with it the rebate will be useful for forming the
glazing pockets
the cill and the transom at the top of the door should be full frame
width so the frame is stiff when fixed
and no butt joints
and do a thorough survey of the structural opening
nothing worse than carefully making the frame only to find it wont fit
because te structure is out of plumb or level

breeze


Thanks.
I hadn't thought of making more than a simple height and width measurement.
So I will
take a lot more measurements and check for squareness.
When it come to gluing and nailing I think I should cut plywood inserts for
all the window spaces
to make double sure of flatness and getting it spot on. Is this a good
idea?

I don't have full width cramps but I could hire some.

Arthur



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Posts: 285
Default Ordering door frame timber


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2"
wrote:

Hi all.
I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door.
I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive.
On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its
scots pine)
with a pre-cut rebate.
My frame has sidelights and a toplight.
Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order
non-rebated lengths for the timbers
that won't form the actual door frame?

Thanks.

Arthur



i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders
and a water bar
however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it
yourself
how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there?


The 65 x 100 is about the same size as what is already in place. I have an
old
mid terrace.

Arthur



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