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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi all.
I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door. I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive. On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its scots pine) with a pre-cut rebate. My frame has sidelights and a toplight. Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order non-rebated lengths for the timbers that won't form the actual door frame? Thanks. Arthur |
#2
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On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2"
wrote: Hi all. I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door. I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive. On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its scots pine) with a pre-cut rebate. My frame has sidelights and a toplight. Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order non-rebated lengths for the timbers that won't form the actual door frame? Thanks. Arthur i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders and a water bar however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it yourself how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there? seems a bit heavy for a door frame but if youre happy with it the rebate will be useful for forming the glazing pockets the cill and the transom at the top of the door should be full frame width so the frame is stiff when fixed and no butt joints and do a thorough survey of the structural opening nothing worse than carefully making the frame only to find it wont fit because te structure is out of plumb or level breeze |
#3
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![]() wrote in message ... On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2" wrote: Hi all. I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door. I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive. On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its scots pine) with a pre-cut rebate. My frame has sidelights and a toplight. Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order non-rebated lengths for the timbers that won't form the actual door frame? Thanks. Arthur i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders and a water bar however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it yourself how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there? seems a bit heavy for a door frame but if youre happy with it the rebate will be useful for forming the glazing pockets the cill and the transom at the top of the door should be full frame width so the frame is stiff when fixed and no butt joints and do a thorough survey of the structural opening nothing worse than carefully making the frame only to find it wont fit because te structure is out of plumb or level breeze Thanks. I hadn't thought of making more than a simple height and width measurement. So I will take a lot more measurements and check for squareness. When it come to gluing and nailing I think I should cut plywood inserts for all the window spaces to make double sure of flatness and getting it spot on. Is this a good idea? I don't have full width cramps but I could hire some. Arthur |
#4
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![]() wrote in message ... On Sat, 10 May 2008 18:52:18 +0100, "Arthur2" wrote: Hi all. I am getting closer to replacing the front door frame & door. I was going to use mahogany but its too expensive. On Laver's timber web site they have 100mm x 65mm redwood ( I assume its scots pine) with a pre-cut rebate. My frame has sidelights and a toplight. Should I use this same timber for all parts of the frame or order non-rebated lengths for the timbers that won't form the actual door frame? Thanks. Arthur i would have a door frame made with integral sill and draft excluders and a water bar however if you have the neccessary skills and equipment you may do it yourself how does 65mm timber compare to whats already there? The 65 x 100 is about the same size as what is already in place. I have an old mid terrace. Arthur |
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