Thanks mainly to Andy Halls encouragement, the Recorded Delivery
letter with legaleze undertones, written to my garage door fitting
company had the usual magical effect. I still can't bring myself to
start all my complaint procedures that way though. It seems just too
pessimistic for a standard approach.

Anyway, now that's done and dusted, I'm asking for advice on the most
sensible and economical way to install sturdy continuous shelving in
my garage, going from head-height to ceiling (4'). I'm initially
tempted to hang 3" x 2"s from brackets screwed to the upper floor
ceiling joists, then make up the other componets with 2" X 2" and
chipboard for shelving. There may be much better ways to do this
though, so any advice would be most appreciated.
--
Regards,
Dick Treen

expressed precisely :

I'm initially
tempted to hang 3" x 2"s from brackets screwed to the upper floor
ceiling joists, then make up the other componets with 2" X 2" and
chipboard for shelving. There may be much better ways to do this
though, so any advice would be most appreciated.

One option (if they must be suspended) is to cut some short bits of
angle iron, drill fixing hole to mount on the beam on one side and a
hole in the other side suitable for some threaded rod. Drill a hole in
the shelf to suit the rod, a nut and a washer will then secure one side
-if repeated every couple of feet. You can support the outer edge of
the shelf like this or both edges. Alternatively you could add a batten
along the wall to support the back edge of the shelf. Using threaded
rod maximises the available room and it is quick.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On 10 May, 18:06, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
expressed precisely :

I'm initially
tempted to hang 3" x 2"s from brackets screwed to the upper floor
ceiling joists, then make up the other componets with 2" X 2" and
chipboard for shelving. There may be much better ways to do this
though, so any advice would be most appreciated.

One option (if they must be suspended) is to cut some short bits of
angle iron, drill fixing hole to mount on the beam on one side and a
hole in the other side suitable for some threaded rod. Drill a hole in
the shelf to suit the rod, a nut and a washer will then secure one side
-if repeated every couple of feet. You can support the outer edge of
the shelf like this or both edges. Alternatively you could add a batten
along the wall to support the back edge of the shelf. Using threaded
rod maximises the available room and it is quick.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Great idea Harry, thanks! Maybe some tubing over exposed areas of
threaded rod would make them more comfortable to hold on to when
stocking or picking.
--
Regards,
Dick Treen

On 2008-05-10 17:14:01 +0100, "
said:

Thanks mainly to Andy Halls encouragement, the Recorded Delivery
letter with legaleze undertones, written to my garage door fitting
company had the usual magical effect. I still can't bring myself to
start all my complaint procedures that way though. It seems just too
pessimistic for a standard approach.

It shouldn't be necessary, if suppliers followed the simple and basic
principle of doing what they say they will do.

In some cases, where I believe that the person making the offer is
naive or doesn't have the authority, i will ask them to check. That
can save a lot of time as well.


Anyway, now that's done and dusted, I'm asking for advice on the most
sensible and economical way to install sturdy continuous shelving in
my garage, going from head-height to ceiling (4'). I'm initially
tempted to hang 3" x 2"s from brackets screwed to the upper floor
ceiling joists, then make up the other componets with 2" X 2" and
chipboard for shelving. There may be much better ways to do this
though, so any advice would be most appreciated.

Framing of that nature would be a reasonable way to do it. I would
use 18mm ply and not particle board, however.

On 10 May, 22:19, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2008-05-10 17:14:01 +0100, "
said:

Thanks mainly to Andy Halls encouragement, the Recorded Delivery
letter with legaleze undertones, written to my garage door fitting
company had the usual magical effect. I still can't bring myself to
start all my complaint procedures that way though. It seems just too
pessimistic for a standard approach.

It shouldn't be necessary, if suppliers followed the simple and basic
principle of doing what they say they will do.

In some cases, where I believe that the person making the offer is
naive or doesn't have the authority, i will ask them to check. That
can save a lot of time as well.

I'm going to take a leaf out of your book, in that respect, in future.
All that was clearly stated initially is that the company would supply
and fit an electrically operated roller door.
No mention that they'd wire it up properly, use treated timber, or
make good the damage done by removal of the old door.
I simply took this as understood.

There's a considerable number of tradesmen I've dealt with in the past
who would resent having to go into such detail about what they intend
to do in the completion of a job. Certainly, the way these particular
garage door people seemed to operate, I would've waited a long time
for that level of detail to be documented.
Even so, after this recent experience I'm going to get the fine
details in writing from now on.

Anyway, now that's done and dusted, I'm asking for advice on the most
sensible and economical way to install sturdy continuous shelving in
my garage, going from head-height to ceiling (4'). I'm initially
tempted to hang 3" x 2"s from brackets screwed to the upper floor
ceiling joists, then make up the other componets with 2" X 2" and
chipboard for shelving. There may be much better ways to do this
though, so any advice would be most appreciated.

Framing of that nature would be a reasonable way to do it. I would
use 18mm ply and not particle board, however.

I'm really chuffed about Harry Bloomfield's threaded rod suggestion. I
drew it this morning and it looks just the ticket.
When it comes to the shelves I'll take your advice and use ply.
--
Regards,
Dick Treen