"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Mark wrote:
George (dicegeorge) wrote in message
...
what is 'close boarded' ?


This is, looking up at my roof from the loft
http://i32.tinypic.com/16kw9ds.jpg


The very best way to stop tiles being blown off. And limit arctic gales in
the loft.
And, in the context of a complete re-slate, not that expensive to do.


Well that does rather depend on the size of the roof, with the cost of real
wood and labour these days it could add considerably to the cost.

I built that roof in 1971 at the tender age of 26 I think the material cost
was about £300 for the wood and it was done without any electric tools just
a hammer and handsaw.



-

George (dicegeorge) wrote:

There are rotten roof rafters with woodworm because of decades of leaks,
so i think the whole lot of slates should come off

How much rotten woodwork? Again its usually way less work and
cost to simply patch the bad wood. A handful of added bits of wood
versus a complete reroof... or is the roof really at risk of coming
down on its own?


and the wood be patched, replaced, and sprayed.

It's quite a steep roof, half of a large victorian house.
We're half way up a hill, wth trees behind the house,
so i dont think that sarking/boarding will be necessary.

The advantage of having no felting seems to me to be that
when there is a small leak I can find it from underneath,
damp patches in the attic and ceilings,
whereas with felt the damp problem would be hidden, and may be rotting wood
away secretly.

If you reroof, felt is a requirement.


But most of you recommend a modern felting material.
There are a few roof spaces that could in future be converted to living
spaces,
that's a future project,
this summer I just want to get the roof derotted and watertight.

right - do make you future life easier though, as others have said.


And maybe get the hot water working.

Fun Maybe you need one of these...
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index...._Water_Systems


NT

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 22:42:56 +0100, a particular chimpanzee, The
Natural Philosopher randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

Permeable membrane is not needed in a 'cold roof'

Its there to vent 'warm roof' spaces where the joists are covered and
there is very little movement past them as they are insulated, with a
small air gap.

A "warm roof" is insulated above the rafters and therefore doesn't
need venting (the rafters are held above the dewpoint). Any other
roof is a "cold roof" despite the advertising of the breather membrane
manufacturers.

The void between the insulation and the covering in a cold roof must
be ventilated in some way. If vented through gaps at the eaves and
the ridge any membrane can be used (slater's felt or breather
membrane), otherwise breathable membrane must be used in accordance
with the BBA certificate (taut & counterbattens over or draped, laps
taped or open, etc).
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"

George (dicegeorge) wrote:
wrote :
also insulate between the rafters and board it out inside.


That's something I can DIY in the winter after they're gone isnt it?
Whether or not it's boarded on the top?


Yes.


And even maybe give it a year or two first to see if there are any leaks
where they forgot a few nails.


Yes ;-)

fred wrote:
In article , George (dicegeorge)
writes
ive just uploaded a picture of the roof
http://www.dicegeorge.com/psb/psimg/...-sharpened.jpg


there's a lot to do!

Oooh, that is a lot.

The benefit of boarding and the use of breathable membrane is that it
leaves your options open to do absolutely anything underneath in the
future. You've clearly got some dormer and used attic space so the
option of a warm roof is useful and the small additional cost over a
basic job should be worth it.

I'm used to seeing roofs in relatively exposed situations so would
automatically tend towards boarding, felting/membraning, battening,
counter battening and finishing. Although possibly with variations
depending on the final roof finishing. I wouldn't like to see membrane
flapping loose over rafters.

I heartily agree. A good sound roof is with a lot in terms of peace of
mind, and 50 years down the line, resale value.

It MAY even net you a bit less insurance costs.

wrote:
George (dicegeorge) wrote:

There are rotten roof rafters with woodworm because of decades of leaks,
so i think the whole lot of slates should come off

How much rotten woodwork? Again its usually way less work and
cost to simply patch the bad wood. A handful of added bits of wood
versus a complete reroof... or is the roof really at risk of coming
down on its own?


Thats a very moot point: I would say that if more than about 15% of wood
needs repalcing, its probably ceheaper to strip and replace everything
suspect. I could NOT elieve how much time it took a carpenter to make a
bit of dormer.Essentially all the fiddling on the dormers took MORE time
than putting up all the main roof timbers.

I would only ver patch repair in a listed situation: if any part of a
joist is gone, take the whole joist out. Its haboring spores, and its
suspect, and it tales just as long to cut in a section as a whole new joist.





and the wood be patched, replaced, and sprayed.

It's quite a steep roof, half of a large victorian house.
We're half way up a hill, wth trees behind the house,
so i dont think that sarking/boarding will be necessary.

The advantage of having no felting seems to me to be that
when there is a small leak I can find it from underneath,
damp patches in the attic and ceilings,
whereas with felt the damp problem would be hidden, and may be rotting wood
away secretly.

If you reroof, felt is a requirement.


I certainly believed it was.

But most of you recommend a modern felting material.
There are a few roof spaces that could in future be converted to living
spaces,
that's a future project,
this summer I just want to get the roof derotted and watertight.

right - do make you future life easier though, as others have said.


Yup.


And maybe get the hot water working.

Fun Maybe you need one of these...
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index...._Water_Systems


NT