The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided to
build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips as it
was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were there
--- to give enough clearance at the hinges for plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg


Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between the hinges
and the blockwork.

The only way get builder to cut back reveals with a stone saw to allow for
plaster clearance,not a disaster at this stage,or purchase new window to
size.next time get a window company to fit window,they tend to understand
these things better.

James wrote:
The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided
to build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips
as it was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were
there --- to give enough clearance at the hinges for
plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg


Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between the
hinges and the blockwork.

you may have to use backing plaster and skim this one reveal rather than
dryline it.
a thin coat of sand and cement followed by normal plaster would be best
IMO - I would have said bonding or browning, but they are too porous for
what /may/ get damp coming through any tiny gaps around the window.

"Phil L" wrote in message
m...
James wrote:
The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided
to build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips
as it was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were
there --- to give enough clearance at the hinges for
plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg


Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between the
hinges and the blockwork.

you may have to use backing plaster and skim this one reveal rather than
dryline it.
a thin coat of sand and cement followed by normal plaster would be best
IMO - I would have said bonding or browning, but they are too porous for
what /may/ get damp coming through any tiny gaps around the window.



I'd use one level of Dry wall adhesive and then tile up to aquired
thickness.

If damp is going to be apparent Phillip then the job has really been a bodge
job.

George wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
m...
James wrote:
The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided
to build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips
as it was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were
there --- to give enough clearance at the hinges for
plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg


Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the
reveal that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between
the hinges and the blockwork.

you may have to use backing plaster and skim this one reveal rather
than dryline it.
a thin coat of sand and cement followed by normal plaster would be
best IMO - I would have said bonding or browning, but they are too
porous for what /may/ get damp coming through any tiny gaps around
the window.



I'd use one level of Dry wall adhesive and then tile up to aquired
thickness.

He can tile directly over the sand/cement if he wishes.

If damp is going to be apparent Phillip then the job has really been
a bodge job.

Given that it's tiles, there's more likely to be pooling of condensation on
the cill, this can (and does) track up bonding / browning etc.

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 09:11:21 GMT, James wrote:

The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided to
build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips as it
was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were there
--- to give enough clearance at the hinges for plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg


Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between the hinges
and the blockwork.


Ask the builder what's going to do?
--
http://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk
http://www.holidayunder100.co.uk

On 24 Apr, 10:11, James wrote:
The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided to
build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips as it
was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were there
--- to give enough clearance at the hinges for plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg

Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? *There's less than 1cm between the hinges
and the blockwork.

James
Get an angle grinder and cut out what you need to replaster
Keep this to a minimum by using Wedi board
Chris

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 06:27:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On 24 Apr, 10:11, James wrote:
The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our
extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both
ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided to
build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips as it
was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were there
--- to give enough clearance at the hinges for plastering/boarding.

There's a pic he

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/mkpb/reveal.jpg

Can anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal
that doesn't foul the hinges? *There's less than 1cm between the hinges
and the blockwork.

James
Get an angle grinder and cut out what you need to replaster
Keep this to a minimum by using Wedi board
Chris

Wear a dust mask though. I had to do this when a purpose made sash
window turned out to be just a smidgeon too wide.
Maris

In article
,
wrote:


James
Get an angle grinder and cut out what you need to replaster
Keep this to a minimum by using Wedi board
Chris

Thanks for the advice. I'm just not sure how I can get into the corners
successfully. I can see that a grinder or Stihl saw would take the
majority out but near the lintel is going to be tricky.

In article ,
mogga wrote:


Ask the builder what's going to do?

That would be the obvious thing but I was glad to see the back of him.

In article ,
"George" wrote:


I'd use one level of Dry wall adhesive and then tile up to aquired
thickness.

If damp is going to be apparent Phillip then the job has really been a bodge
job.

George, are you saying to use dry wall adhesive as a plaster skim and
then tile directly on to that?

In article ,
"Phil L" wrote:


you may have to use backing plaster and skim this one reveal rather than
dryline it.
a thin coat of sand and cement followed by normal plaster would be best
IMO - I would have said bonding or browning, but they are too porous for
what /may/ get damp coming through any tiny gaps around the window.


The window frame doesn't actually cover the vertical DPC between
internal/external skins. Is it OK to just plaster across the DPC?