I hope someone can help, I've been freezing my arse off for the last week
:-}

I have a Saunier Duvall SD620F combi boiler. The central heating pressure
gauge is reading zero and the little documentation I have on it says it
needs to be refilled by a qualified engineer.
Thing is though I'm out of work and engineers charge more per hour than I
get in a week. Can anyone tell me what valves or taps need to turned to fill
it back up ?
I've bled the radiators and there was a heck of a lot of air in one of them,
but it hasn't made any difference. The central heating timer's been switched
off for a couple of days but the pilot light is still lit. There's no
running hot water either, goes without saying I suppose.

Can anyone help, please ? I'm *freezing* here!

"Draxen" wrote in message
.. .
I hope someone can help, I've been freezing my arse off for the last week
:-}

I have a Saunier Duvall SD620F combi boiler. The central heating pressure
gauge is reading zero and the little documentation I have on it says it
needs to be refilled by a qualified engineer.
Thing is though I'm out of work and engineers charge more per hour than I
get in a week. Can anyone tell me what valves or taps need to turned to
fill
it back up ?
I've bled the radiators and there was a heck of a lot of air in one of
them,
but it hasn't made any difference. The central heating timer's been
switched
off for a couple of days but the pilot light is still lit. There's no
running hot water either, goes without saying I suppose.

Can anyone help, please ? I'm *freezing* here!


There should be a flexible hose somewhere on your system. Either under the
boiler or somewhere along the pipework. If it isn't already linked up,
relink it & open the tap until the pressure on your boiler reads just over 1
Bar. Re-bleed your rads & if the pressure has dropped again, repressurize to
just over 1 bar again.
You might have to do this a couple of times over the next couple of weeks as
the hydrogen is driven out of the fresh water you have introduced into the
system.

Brad.


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"Cerberus" wrote in message
...
There should be a flexible hose somewhere on your system. Either under the
boiler or somewhere along the pipework. If it isn't already linked up,
relink it & open the tap until the pressure on your boiler reads just over
1
Bar. Re-bleed your rads & if the pressure has dropped again, repressurize
to
just over 1 bar again.
You might have to do this a couple of times over the next couple of weeks
as
the hydrogen is driven out of the fresh water you have introduced into the
system.

Thanks very much man The pipe actually had two taps, one labelled
Failsafe Valve and the other was labelled Filling Valve (hit my head and
call me Shorty!). I opened both of them about a quarter turn, a bit of
gurgling and clanking later the pressure gauge read roughly 1.5 (it's tiny,
hard to see exact).
Then I closed both the valves again. Was this the right thing to do or
should I leave them open slightly ?

"Draxen" wrote in message
.. .
"Cerberus" wrote in message
...
There should be a flexible hose somewhere on your system. Either under
the
boiler or somewhere along the pipework. If it isn't already linked up,
relink it & open the tap until the pressure on your boiler reads just
over
1
Bar. Re-bleed your rads & if the pressure has dropped again,
repressurize
to
just over 1 bar again.
You might have to do this a couple of times over the next couple of
weeks
as
the hydrogen is driven out of the fresh water you have introduced into
the
system.

Thanks very much man The pipe actually had two taps, one labelled
Failsafe Valve and the other was labelled Filling Valve (hit my head and
call me Shorty!). I opened both of them about a quarter turn, a bit of
gurgling and clanking later the pressure gauge read roughly 1.5 (it's
tiny,
hard to see exact).
Then I closed both the valves again. Was this the right thing to do or
should I leave them open slightly ?


Close them again, but keep an eye on the pressure in case you have a leak in
the system somewhere, or the pressure relief valve is blowing off. + Don't
forget to bleed the rads over the next week or two (usually the nearest to
the boiler is the most affected).

Brad.


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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 29/09/2003

"Draxen" wrote in message
.. .
"Cerberus" wrote in message
...
There should be a flexible hose somewhere on your system. Either under
the
boiler or somewhere along the pipework. If it isn't already linked up,
relink it & open the tap until the pressure on your boiler reads just
over
1
Bar. Re-bleed your rads & if the pressure has dropped again,
repressurize
to
just over 1 bar again.
You might have to do this a couple of times over the next couple of
weeks
as
the hydrogen is driven out of the fresh water you have introduced into
the
system.

Thanks very much man The pipe actually had two taps, one labelled
Failsafe Valve and the other was labelled Filling Valve (hit my head and
call me Shorty!). I opened both of them about a quarter turn, a bit of
gurgling and clanking later the pressure gauge read roughly 1.5 (it's
tiny,
hard to see exact).
Then I closed both the valves again. Was this the right thing to do or
should I leave them open slightly ?


Yes, it is the right thing.

Also, water regs say you should leave the pipe disconnected to stop your
radiator water getting into the drinking supply. It would also stop your
system getting overpressured if the valve on the tap failed.

Bob

On Sat, 4 Oct 2003 09:48:59 +0100, "Draxen"
wrote:

Thing is though I'm out of work and engineers charge more per hour than I
get in a week. Can anyone tell me what valves or taps need to turned to fill
it back up ?

You need to go down the unemployment office and explain your
circumstances. They can pay for an engineer to provide you and your
family with heating, it's one of those rights which you have to plead
for.

PoP