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Default Water Otter Q's

Hi All,

We have had a Main Avon Thermostatic multipoint 'water otter' (heater
g) for at least ~15 years now but I think it's had enough (leaks
from the gas / water control valve piston (repairable) and possibly
also the heat exchanger core).

Our neighbour had a newer, de-commissioned Main Mersey Super hanging
on the wall (and hence my brick question previously) and has given it
to me with the idea that it *might* (should) be a fairly easy swap,
coming from the same family etc.

The real question (other than would anyone actually know if these two
will share a common flue?) is how differently will a non thermostatic
model work in practice? i.e. is it still 'thermostatic' but just
doesn't have a user adjustable temperature setting or will the water
temperature simply be a function of the water flow rate ( moderated by
the sink / basin taps etc). If it is the latter then I guess I could
set a minimum temperature by limiting the maximum flow rate somewhere?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. We don't have central heating but do enjoy having continuous hot
water (even during a power cut g).
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Default Water Otter Q's


"T i m" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

We have had a Main Avon Thermostatic multipoint 'water otter' (heater
g) for at least ~15 years now but I think it's had enough (leaks
from the gas / water control valve piston (repairable) and possibly
also the heat exchanger core).

Our neighbour had a newer, de-commissioned Main Mersey Super hanging
on the wall (and hence my brick question previously) and has given it
to me with the idea that it *might* (should) be a fairly easy swap,
coming from the same family etc.

The real question (other than would anyone actually know if these two
will share a common flue?) is how differently will a non thermostatic
model work in practice? i.e. is it still 'thermostatic' but just
doesn't have a user adjustable temperature setting or will the water
temperature simply be a function of the water flow rate ( moderated by
the sink / basin taps etc). If it is the latter then I guess I could
set a minimum temperature by limiting the maximum flow rate somewhere?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. We don't have central heating but do enjoy having continuous hot
water (even during a power cut g).


The manufactures instructions can be viewed here
http://www.partsarena.com/baxi/
It would seem that the flue is interchangeable with other models in the
range.
You should find the answers to any fitting or performance questions.


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Default Water Otter Q's

On Sun, 2 Mar 2008 12:54:52 -0000, "Heliotrope Smith"
wrote:


We have had a Main Avon Thermostatic multipoint 'water otter' (heater
g) for at least ~15 years now but I think it's had enough (leaks
from the gas / water control valve piston (repairable) and possibly
also the heat exchanger core).


The manufactures instructions can be viewed here
http://www.partsarena.com/baxi/


Wow, thanks very much for that!

I had Googled for some instructions but hadn't found anything.

It would seem that the flue is interchangeable with other models in the
range.


That's a bit of luck.

You should find the answers to any fitting or performance questions.

Brilliant.

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

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Default Water Otter Q's

In article ,
"Heliotrope Smith" writes:

"T i m" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

We have had a Main Avon Thermostatic multipoint 'water otter' (heater
g) for at least ~15 years now but I think it's had enough (leaks
from the gas / water control valve piston (repairable) and possibly
also the heat exchanger core).

Our neighbour had a newer, de-commissioned Main Mersey Super hanging
on the wall (and hence my brick question previously) and has given it
to me with the idea that it *might* (should) be a fairly easy swap,
coming from the same family etc.

The real question (other than would anyone actually know if these two
will share a common flue?) is how differently will a non thermostatic
model work in practice? i.e. is it still 'thermostatic' but just
doesn't have a user adjustable temperature setting or will the water
temperature simply be a function of the water flow rate ( moderated by
the sink / basin taps etc). If it is the latter then I guess I could
set a minimum temperature by limiting the maximum flow rate somewhere?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. We don't have central heating but do enjoy having continuous hot
water (even during a power cut g).


I kept mine for the hot water when I did put in central heating.

The manufactures instructions can be viewed here
http://www.partsarena.com/baxi/
It would seem that the flue is interchangeable with other models in the
range.


The more recent Main multipoint heaters were designed to hang on
the flues of the older devices. However, the mounting bolts are
in different places. When new, you get pieces of pre-cut boiler
plate tape to block off the unused mounting holes, which you might
have to source elsewhere if refitting. Also, you will probably want
to replace the flue seal when fitting to a different flue as it may
have deformed to fit the other flue. Check the cabinet seal too in
case that also needs replacing.

You should find the answers to any fitting or performance questions.


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Water Otter Q's

On 02 Mar 2008 17:42:14 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:



p.s. We don't have central heating but do enjoy having continuous hot
water (even during a power cut g).


I kept mine for the hot water when I did put in central heating.


Oh?

The manufactures instructions can be viewed here
http://www.partsarena.com/baxi/
It would seem that the flue is interchangeable with other models in the
range.


The more recent Main multipoint heaters were designed to hang on
the flues of the older devices. However, the mounting bolts are
in different places.


Ah ..

When new, you get pieces of pre-cut boiler
plate tape to block off the unused mounting holes, which you might
have to source elsewhere if refitting.


I have a roll somewhere .. ;-)

Also, you will probably want
to replace the flue seal when fitting to a different flue as it may
have deformed to fit the other flue.


Ok ..

Check the cabinet seal too in
case that also needs replacing.


I did give it a once over and although it looks 'ok' (in spite of some
of it still being stuck to the other half of the cabinet) I thought
I'd replace it once I know the heater works etc (but didn't go as far
as investigating how it was stuck on).

Is it a generic part or would I have to go back to Main / whoever
please Andrew?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Looking closer at the diagrams on the link from Heliotrope it
seems that many (most?) of the modules in these heaters are *supposed*
to be serviceable, especially the control rod that connects the gas
and water valves together (and one of the current minor leak areas on
my old heater and something I have stripped, cleaned, re o-ringed,
lubed and rebuilt in the past). Maybe .... I'll check how bad that is
again and if the other leak is in the old heat exchanger, maybe I
could swap them over (saves having to re-do the input pipes and
disturb the rear flue seal)?





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