Finally getting around to replacing the existing horrible ceiling light
in our kitchen.

I was wondering about fitting halogen downlighters for ease and because
the ceiling is not terribly high - just above finger height for me (6'
2'').

The kitchen is already very well lit by the striplights below the
cupboards on three sides and the hood lights. So despite the fact that
I hate them I am thinking of fitting halogen downlighters as they will
require infrequent use - the occasional grope in the back of a cupboard
for example.

Should I fit Mr Screwdix's Fire Rated downlighters eg 74095-90 or
49191-90? If not, why not (I mean why fit non-Fire Rated rather than
Fire Rated)? What's to choose between mains and LV? If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

Are there any energy efficiency considerations which should send me down
a different route?

Although the kitchen is a rectangle 3 m x 5 m perhaps one or two surface
mounted light(s) (but quite thin considering the height of the ceiling)
giving a flat wash of light would be a better solution?



TIA


Richard

On 17/02/2008 14:43 Richard wrote:

What's to choose between mains and LV?

LV bulbs last longer.

If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

You can place the transformers in position through the hole into which
you're fitting the lampholder. At least I could when I did our kitchen.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 15:22:30 +0000, F wrote:

On 17/02/2008 14:43 Richard wrote:

What's to choose between mains and LV?

LV bulbs last longer.

If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

You can place the transformers in position through the hole into which
you're fitting the lampholder. At least I could when I did our kitchen.

I'd second that. Although we're in a bungalow, the transformers were all
positioned through the 'mounting' hole, just pulled the fibreglass clear in
the loft afterwards.

Th' only thing to bear in mind, go with one transformer per light, rather
than run two or three lights off one transformer - if a transfomer goes,
you only lose one light!

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net

"Richard" wrote in message
...
Finally getting around to replacing the existing horrible ceiling light in
our kitchen.

I was wondering about fitting halogen downlighters for ease and because
the ceiling is not terribly high - just above finger height for me (6'
2'').

The kitchen is already very well lit by the striplights below the
cupboards on three sides and the hood lights. So despite the fact that I
hate them I am thinking of fitting halogen downlighters as they will
require infrequent use - the occasional grope in the back of a cupboard
for example.

Should I fit Mr Screwdix's Fire Rated downlighters eg 74095-90 or
49191-90? If not, why not (I mean why fit non-Fire Rated rather than Fire
Rated)? What's to choose between mains and LV? If I use LV lamps the
transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will have
a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

Are there any energy efficiency considerations which should send me down a
different route?

Although the kitchen is a rectangle 3 m x 5 m perhaps one or two surface
mounted light(s) (but quite thin considering the height of the ceiling)
giving a flat wash of light would be a better solution?



TIA


Richard

Isn't a kitchen under 'Part P', so you will need either get a part p sparkie
to do it or get the work authorised after?

diy-newby wrote:


Isn't a kitchen under 'Part P', so you will need either get a part p sparkie
to do it or get the work authorised after?



I'm sorry but I couldn't read your message.

In any event I'm replacing existing lights wired into pre-2003 cable.
I'm sure that the replacements will look suitably aged by the time we
come to sell.

"Richard" wrote in message
...
diy-newby wrote:


Isn't a kitchen under 'Part P', so you will need either get a part p
sparkie to do it or get the work authorised after?

I'm sorry but I couldn't read your message.


Why, are you stupid?

On Feb 17, 2:43 pm, Richard wrote:
Finally getting around to replacing the existing horrible ceiling light
in our kitchen.

I was wondering about fitting halogen downlighters for ease and because
the ceiling is not terribly high - just above finger height for me (6'
2'').

The kitchen is already very well lit by the striplights below the
cupboards on three sides and the hood lights. So despite the fact that
I hate them I am thinking of fitting halogen downlighters as they will
require infrequent use - the occasional grope in the back of a cupboard
for example.

Should I fit Mr Screwdix's Fire Rated downlighters eg 74095-90 or
49191-90? If not, why not (I mean why fit non-Fire Rated rather than
Fire Rated)? What's to choose between mains and LV? If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

Are there any energy efficiency considerations which should send me down
a different route?

Although the kitchen is a rectangle 3 m x 5 m perhaps one or two surface
mounted light(s) (but quite thin considering the height of the ceiling)
giving a flat wash of light would be a better solution?

TIA

Richard

LV is more energy efficient and much longer lived than GU10.
Use eyeballs not straight downlighters, gives you some adjustment.
Lamps come in a variety of beam angles, think about each lights
position and purpose..
Trafos post through the downlighter holes, big brand trafos are
better, Mode and IBL are good.
Reaching in the back of the cupboard may be better served with
cupboard lights.
Fluro battens on top of the cupboards can work in low ceilinged rooms.

HTH
Adam

diy-newby wrote:
"Richard" wrote in message
...
diy-newby wrote:

Isn't a kitchen under 'Part P', so you will need either get a part p
sparkie to do it or get the work authorised after?
I'm sorry but I couldn't read your message.


Why, are you stupid?


sigh

I'll forgive you on the basis that your sig implies a certain
inexperience in the DIY field and your reply an acceptance of Part Pee
as an essential part of life's rich pageant rather than the irritant to
beat all irritants.

Richard

Adam Aglionby wrote:
On Feb 17, 2:43 pm, Richard wrote:
Finally getting around to replacing the existing horrible ceiling light
in our kitchen.

I was wondering about fitting halogen downlighters for ease and because
the ceiling is not terribly high - just above finger height for me (6'
2'').

The kitchen is already very well lit by the striplights below the
cupboards on three sides and the hood lights. So despite the fact that
I hate them I am thinking of fitting halogen downlighters as they will
require infrequent use - the occasional grope in the back of a cupboard
for example.

Should I fit Mr Screwdix's Fire Rated downlighters eg 74095-90 or
49191-90? If not, why not (I mean why fit non-Fire Rated rather than
Fire Rated)? What's to choose between mains and LV? If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

Are there any energy efficiency considerations which should send me down
a different route?

Although the kitchen is a rectangle 3 m x 5 m perhaps one or two surface
mounted light(s) (but quite thin considering the height of the ceiling)
giving a flat wash of light would be a better solution?

TIA

Richard

LV is more energy efficient and much longer lived than GU10.
Use eyeballs not straight downlighters, gives you some adjustment.
Lamps come in a variety of beam angles, think about each lights
position and purpose..
Trafos post through the downlighter holes, big brand trafos are
better, Mode and IBL are good.
Reaching in the back of the cupboard may be better served with
cupboard lights.
Fluro battens on top of the cupboards can work in low ceilinged rooms.

HTH
Adam

Thanks Adam and (some!) others

Hadn't thought about posting the transformers through the lamps holes.
At the moment the room above is uncarpeted allowing easy downwards
access IYSWIM. The cupboards are all flush to the ceiling. I'm really
only considering fitting ceiling lighting because I installed an extra
switched circuit when installing the two-way switches for the
undercupboard lights. I am very impressed by just how much light these
little fluoro strip units provide. I have 4 x 300mm and 1 x 150mm and
together they provide _almost_ all the light needed.

Is it prudent/good practice to choose Fire-Rated units? Or overkill?

Richard

On Feb 19, 7:16 pm, Richard wrote:
Adam Aglionby wrote:
On Feb 17, 2:43 pm, Richard wrote:
Finally getting around to replacing the existing horrible ceiling light
in our kitchen.

I was wondering about fitting halogen downlighters for ease and because
the ceiling is not terribly high - just above finger height for me (6'
2'').

The kitchen is already very well lit by the striplights below the
cupboards on three sides and the hood lights. So despite the fact that
I hate them I am thinking of fitting halogen downlighters as they will
require infrequent use - the occasional grope in the back of a cupboard
for example.

Should I fit Mr Screwdix's Fire Rated downlighters eg 74095-90 or
49191-90? If not, why not (I mean why fit non-Fire Rated rather than
Fire Rated)? What's to choose between mains and LV? If I use LV lamps
the transformers will be under the floor of the bedroom above which will
have a fitted carpet. Is access to the transformers desirable?

Are there any energy efficiency considerations which should send me down
a different route?

Although the kitchen is a rectangle 3 m x 5 m perhaps one or two surface
mounted light(s) (but quite thin considering the height of the ceiling)
giving a flat wash of light would be a better solution?

TIA

Richard

LV is more energy efficient and much longer lived than GU10.
Use eyeballs not straight downlighters, gives you some adjustment.
Lamps come in a variety of beam angles, think about each lights
position and purpose..
Trafos post through the downlighter holes, big brand trafos are
better, Mode and IBL are good.
Reaching in the back of the cupboard may be better served with
cupboard lights.
Fluro battens on top of the cupboards can work in low ceilinged rooms.

HTH
Adam

Thanks Adam and (some!) others

Your welcome.

Hadn't thought about posting the transformers through the lamps holes.
At the moment the room above is uncarpeted allowing easy downwards
access IYSWIM. The cupboards are all flush to the ceiling.

Look for MR11 rather than MR16 LV downlights, the number is 1/8s of an
inch an MR16 is 2" across.
MR11 3* 20W eyball sets plug and play with transformer are a shed item
at sub 20 quid.Set of holesaws and your done.
MR8 are an inch across but the fittings tend not be cheap.

I'm really
only considering fitting ceiling lighting because I installed an extra
switched circuit when installing the two-way switches for the
undercupboard lights.

Good planning with putting 2 way guess to door as well.
Undercupboards and LED above the kickboards ;-) are a bit softer for
night fridge raids.

I am very impressed by just how much light these
little fluoro strip units provide. I have 4 x 300mm and 1 x 150mm and
together they provide _almost_ all the light needed.

T5 is very efficient, but startlingly glary if it isnt hidden behind a
cornice or something.

Is it prudent/good practice to choose Fire-Rated units? Or overkill?

Kitchen a fireproof box already? If so keep the containment, under the
impression,not an expert, that its only mandatory for holes into loft
spaces. Terracotta plant pots have been mentioned here before

Richard

HTH
Adam

Adam Aglionby wrote:


Your welcome.

Hadn't thought about posting the transformers through the lamps holes.
At the moment the room above is uncarpeted allowing easy downwards
access IYSWIM. The cupboards are all flush to the ceiling.

Look for MR11 rather than MR16 LV downlights, the number is 1/8s of an
inch an MR16 is 2" across.
MR11 3* 20W eyball sets plug and play with transformer are a shed item
at sub 20 quid.Set of holesaws and your done.
MR8 are an inch across but the fittings tend not be cheap.

I'm really
only considering fitting ceiling lighting because I installed an extra
switched circuit when installing the two-way switches for the
undercupboard lights.

Good planning with putting 2 way guess to door as well.
Undercupboards and LED above the kickboards ;-) are a bit softer for
night fridge raids.

I am very impressed by just how much light these
little fluoro strip units provide. I have 4 x 300mm and 1 x 150mm and
together they provide _almost_ all the light needed.

T5 is very efficient, but startlingly glary if it isnt hidden behind a
cornice or something.

Is it prudent/good practice to choose Fire-Rated units? Or overkill?

Kitchen a fireproof box already? If so keep the containment, under the
impression,not an expert, that its only mandatory for holes into loft
spaces. Terracotta plant pots have been mentioned here before
Richard

HTH
Adam


Thanks Adam

Good point re. whether the kitchen is already a fireproof box - I doubt
it!


Richard