Last year John wrote

We've got the Myson KickSpace heater and it's brilliant. Have a look at:

http://www.myson.co.uk/kickspace.htm

Comes with flexi-hoses for easy connection to the central heating pipework.
There's a temperature sensor in them so that it only starts up when the CH
water reaches a certain temp and I've got it wired into a thermostat in the
kitchen so that it doesn't operate all the time that the CH is on, but only
when we want it on.

I presume that Part L would require that a room stat must be
fitted?

The manual:
http://www.myson.co.uk/img/Fan_Convectors_technical.pdf
doesn't seem over keen about simply replacing an existing
radiator, but this is all I can realistically achieve.

How successfully has anybody done just this?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

At the last house the previous owner had removed the rad when doing a
bodged kitchen refurb. When I refurbed it (properly) again I extended
the microbore inside the plinths to put the kickspace heater under the
unit housing the sink.

Absolute bliss! SWMBO an myself almost fought over doing the washing
up to get warm tootsies. The fan was controlled by a regular
electrical wall-stat next to the fan speed controller.

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 08:58:29 GMT, Chris J Dixon
wrote:

Last year John wrote

We've got the Myson KickSpace heater and it's brilliant. Have a look at:

http://www.myson.co.uk/kickspace.htm

Comes with flexi-hoses for easy connection to the central heating pipework.
There's a temperature sensor in them so that it only starts up when the CH
water reaches a certain temp and I've got it wired into a thermostat in the
kitchen so that it doesn't operate all the time that the CH is on, but only
when we want it on.

I presume that Part L would require that a room stat must be
fitted?

The manual:
http://www.myson.co.uk/img/Fan_Convectors_technical.pdf
doesn't seem over keen about simply replacing an existing
radiator, but this is all I can realistically achieve.

How successfully has anybody done just this?

Depending on how often your boiler runs you can get away in the short
term with just running the Kickspace it on its own internal stat. If
the boiler runs for a long burn and the heater is oversized then the
room might get too hot as the Kickspace temperature sensor is just
sensing feed pipe temperature and not room temperature. If this
happens you can always switch the fan off.

Mine runs with a Honeywell wireless stat to avoid hacking out the
existing kitchen tiles. The fused spur is behind a kitchen unit and
would take a good 30 mins to an hour to reach it. Switching off at the
consumer unit takes all of 10 seconds. OK it might not satisfy the
IEE Nazi's but it works

Bugger Part L and Prat P, a thermostat makes sense.



--

On Feb 11, 1:02*pm, Matt wrote:

*If
the boiler runs for a long burn and the heater is oversized then the
room might get too hot *

That's the reason for the wall stat. To turn the fan off to stop the
tootsies get too warm. The hot water can continue to circulate through
the matrix without pushing a great deal of heat into the kitchen.

The other benefit of the wall stat is you won't heat the kitchen as
much when you get a heat gain from cooking.

You do need a wall stat, just simple mechanical works fine, Myson do those
capable of switching 10A as one of my heaters is dual electric/CH type.

I have two kick space heaters in my kitchen and if someone sets the stat too
high it get far too hot, so I would say yes a stat is definately required.

Remember to balance the system as well after fitting, as these heaters can
certainly pump out a fair amount of heat at the expense of the rest of the
house.


"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message
news
Last year John wrote

We've got the Myson KickSpace heater and it's brilliant. Have a look at:

http://www.myson.co.uk/kickspace.htm

Comes with flexi-hoses for easy connection to the central heating
pipework.
There's a temperature sensor in them so that it only starts up when the CH
water reaches a certain temp and I've got it wired into a thermostat in
the
kitchen so that it doesn't operate all the time that the CH is on, but
only
when we want it on.

I presume that Part L would require that a room stat must be
fitted?

The manual:
http://www.myson.co.uk/img/Fan_Convectors_technical.pdf
doesn't seem over keen about simply replacing an existing
radiator, but this is all I can realistically achieve.

How successfully has anybody done just this?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

"Ian_m" wrote in message
...
You do need a wall stat, just simple mechanical works fine, Myson do those
capable of switching 10A as one of my heaters is dual electric/CH type.

I have two kick space heaters in my kitchen and if someone sets the stat
too high it get far too hot, so I would say yes a stat is definately
required.

Remember to balance the system as well after fitting, as these heaters can
certainly pump out a fair amount of heat at the expense of the rest of the
house.

They also act as a by-pass too.