Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank. I
presume some sort of rust preventative first - red oxide? Then what sort of
paint for the top coat?

TIA

Keith

Keith Dunbar wrote:
Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank. I
presume some sort of rust preventative first - red oxide? Then what sort of
paint for the top coat?

TIA

Keith



Hammerite. Have a look he -

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...al_shades.html

Note the usage guide at the bottom of the page. Normally no primer is
required.

On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 18:35:28 GMT, "Keith Dunbar"
wrote:

Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank.

Bitumen based, which means black. This is probably what's on there
already and it really doesn't mix well with other paints. Johnsons do a
decent one that Screwfix carry. Otherwise try a truck factor like
Edmunds Walker and ask for "chassis black".

The red oxides are a bit of a fraud these days - their heyday was when
they contained the lead oxides, excellent primer materials (bit nippy
though!). Now it's an iron oxide then it's an good cheap, stable
undercoat but nothing spectacular as a primer.

Zinc paints (try Davids 182) are the best thing for car repair work, but
they're only any use if they're on perfectly clean bare steel.

Finnegan's No1 isn't bad as a primer over averagely-cleaned steel, as
left by an angle grinder with a wire brush in it (best sort of practical
portable preparation machine to use).

Hammerite (and Smoothrite) are over-rated crap. Many posts passim.


If it's black, go with bitumen. If it's green, go with the best red
oxide primer you can buy from a commercial bodyshop supplier. It'll be
better and cheaper than stuff from reail shops.

The message
from "Keith Dunbar" contains these words:

Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank. I
presume some sort of rust preventative first - red oxide? Then what
sort of
paint for the top coat?

Most large towns have a specialist paint dealer. Worth their weight in
gold if you can find them in the depths of some industrial estate where
the public rarely penetrate. Excellent industrial-grade products for a
fraction of the cost of the rubbish you buy on the High Street or in the
big box stores.

Have a look in Yellow Pages under "Decorators' Merchants" or in White
Pages under "Paint Stores" but you may find that many of these places
don't advertise at all. They don't need to. They don't really want
hordes of the public traipsing in, though they're perfectly happy to
serve an intellgent member of the public and advise on what's suitable
for a particular job.

In point of fact, we've a trade account with our local one, though
that's another story -- the same firm service our ten fire extinguishers
under contract, but they're absolutely brilliant for paint which is
their main line of business and quite happy to do cash sales.

FWIW, if you still have a metal oil tank I'd certainly go for a really
thick bituminous product, but you need something far thicker than the
cheap and nasty bituminous paint sold on the high street. One of the
thick roofing sealants or car body underseals might be more appropriate.

The time spent finding a really good suppplier who know their stuff is
well worth it. Get the right stuff and you won't have to redo it for
years and years, but get the wrong stuff and you'll be redoing it in a
couple of years.

"Appin" wrote in message
...
The message
from "Keith Dunbar" contains these words:

Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank. I
presume some sort of rust preventative first - red oxide? Then what
sort of
paint for the top coat?

Most large towns have a specialist paint dealer. Worth their weight in
gold if you can find them in the depths of some industrial estate where
the public rarely penetrate. Excellent industrial-grade products for a
fraction of the cost of the rubbish you buy on the High Street or in the
big box stores.

Have a look in Yellow Pages under "Decorators' Merchants" or in White
Pages under "Paint Stores" but you may find that many of these places
don't advertise at all. They don't need to. They don't really want
hordes of the public traipsing in, though they're perfectly happy to
serve an intellgent member of the public and advise on what's suitable
for a particular job.

In point of fact, we've a trade account with our local one, though
that's another story -- the same firm service our ten fire extinguishers
under contract, but they're absolutely brilliant for paint which is
their main line of business and quite happy to do cash sales.

FWIW, if you still have a metal oil tank I'd certainly go for a really
thick bituminous product, but you need something far thicker than the
cheap and nasty bituminous paint sold on the high street. One of the
thick roofing sealants or car body underseals might be more appropriate.

The time spent finding a really good suppplier who know their stuff is
well worth it. Get the right stuff and you won't have to redo it for
years and years, but get the wrong stuff and you'll be redoing it in a
couple of years.

The tank is particularly rusty, but should I still treat any rusty areas
with something - all I know of is Jenolite but I expect there is something
better.

Keith

Andy Dingley wrote:

snip


Hammerite (and Smoothrite) are over-rated crap. Many posts passim.



OK, that told me. I'll get me coat ;-)

Rumble

On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 16:40:15 GMT, "Keith Dunbar"
wrote:

The tank is particularly rusty, but should I still treat any rusty areas
with something - all I know of is Jenolite but I expect there is something
better.

Right stuff (phosphoric acid), but the price is insane.

Best stuff is an opaque white liquid, not pink: phosphoric acid +
tannates. This gives a better surface coat afterwards. Any engineering
supplier or industrial paint shop will have it, and it's cheap by the
gallon. Failing that, try a dope-growing hydroponics shop and buy some
glacial phosphoric acid. Use it neat.

In message , Andy Dingley
writes
On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 16:40:15 GMT, "Keith Dunbar"
wrote:

The tank is particularly rusty, but should I still treat any rusty areas
with something - all I know of is Jenolite but I expect there is something
better.

Right stuff (phosphoric acid), but the price is insane.

Best stuff is an opaque white liquid, not pink: phosphoric acid +
tannates. This gives a better surface coat afterwards. Any engineering
supplier or industrial paint shop will have it, and it's cheap by the
gallon. Failing that, try a dope-growing hydroponics shop and buy some
glacial phosphoric acid. Use it neat.


http://www.kamco.co.uk/FX.htm

is phosphoric acid

.... with a few added extras

--
geoff

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember geoff saying
something like:



http://www.kamco.co.uk/FX.htm

is phosphoric acid

... with a few added extras

It's amazing what you find when you're not looking for it. I found milk
tank de-scaling liquid from the farmer supply store was nothing more
than phosphoric acid - about 40% conc iirc. Not that I need it; I still
have a gallon of 99.9% conc from a local chemlab supply house and it was
only a few quid anyway.
--

Dave

The message
from "Keith Dunbar" contains these words:

Just a quick query. What paint would you use to paint an oil tank. I
presume some sort of rust preventative first - red oxide? Then what
sort of
paint for the top coat?


Just found the involce covering the last stuff I use on a metal roof:

Evo-stik Prufe-it which cost me at my trade suppliers £6.99 + VAT for
each 5 litre can.

Very happy with the end result