I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

Daniele

In article ,
(D.M. Procida) writes:
I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

As mentioned recently in another toaster thread, I repaired a
1950's element with a high temperature crimp. The crimp was
cut off a high temperature eyelet:
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr...sp?SKU=CN04410

I would strongly suggest that if you are to continue using that
toaster, you ensure it can only be supplied via an RCD.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

As mentioned recently in another toaster thread, I repaired a
1950's element with a high temperature crimp. The crimp was
cut off a high temperature eyelet:
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr...sp?SKU=CN04410

Thanks.

I would strongly suggest that if you are to continue using that
toaster, you ensure it can only be supplied via an RCD.

Good advice. I rewired the mains cable and have ensured it's all
properly earthed, but even so I didn't that much like the look of it
all.

Daniele

On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 15:49:50 +0000,
(D.M. Procida) wrote:

I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

Daniele

I can't tell from the picture if it's a wire or ribbon element but a
length of nichrome wire can be used to rewind the card provided you
are gentle with the old former.

In article , Andrew Gabriel
writes

I would strongly suggest that if you are to continue using that
toaster, you ensure it can only be supplied via an RCD.



"Swan Toaster - Darwin Version"

--
(\__/) Bunny says NO to Windows Vista!
(='.'=) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut00...ista_cost.html
(")_(")

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I would strongly suggest that if you are to continue using that
toaster, you ensure it can only be supplied via an RCD.

.... with a tripping current of 1 mA :~)

--
Andy

D.M. Procida wrote:

I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

Daniele

If its the element thats broken, crimping works. If its the former, I
guess its sheet mica. Microwave ovens occasionlly use sometihng as
high temp
as that over the waveguide port, though many use plastics, so you
might or might not find something upto it from nuke spares suppliers.

It doesnt look anything like the '50s toasters I've seen/had, more
likely 1920s. The Dualits are classic 1950s, and far more modern
designs.


NT

D.M. Procida wrote:

I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

http://www.apple-juice.co.uk/media/toaster.jpg

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its
length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How
best could I repair this?

Daniele

PS I'd consider running that off an isolating transformer, with an RCD
AFTER the transformer, not before.


NT

In article ,
writes:

PS I'd consider running that off an isolating transformer, with an RCD
AFTER the transformer, not before.

Um, an RCD does absolutely nothing after an isolating transformer...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
writes:

PS I'd consider running that off an isolating transformer, with an RCD
AFTER the transformer, not before.

Um, an RCD does absolutely nothing after an isolating transformer...

An RCD before the iso tf will not be effective on the output of the
iso. Placed after the iso TF it will detect earth leakage downstream
if the output's centre tap is earthed, which I did omit to mention.

With this combination, the iso tf means that:
1. a single touching of any live part will result in much less shock
current, since its now 120v not 240.
2. 2 simultaneous touches can access 240v and bite badly, same
as with no iso tf

And the RCD means that:
3. The RCD will trip on first contact, minimising single contact risk
and removing nearly all of the 2 contact risk
4. should an insulation/earthing fault occur, which certainly can
happen on 1920s kit, or any electrical kit, the RCD will act as a
backup protection device.

None of the above will make the thing properly safe, so I cant
recommend using the toaster at all. But if someone does, this will
at least reduce the risks significantly.

Using it as-is direct on the mains isn't something I would
ever recommend. As you go back in history electrical kit does
eventually reach the point of unworkably risky. Converting to LV is
one approach often workable. With a toaster its likely to be
possible to convert it to run on centre tapped 110v provided by a
site transformer. Where original switch contacts are insufficient,
they can be brought out to a relay to control the power - but all
this means significant mods to historic equipment, making it not a
popular option. IRL people using prehistoric electrical kit know
enough to take precautions - but knowledge and precautions do
not eliminate accidents. When all's said and done, I'd just leave
the toaster on the shelf unused.


NT