I think I've got a Switchmaster VA1 Central Heating valve ?

See:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG

(Taken at 90 degs :-) )

It seems to be almost dead. Gets stuck as it rotates clockwise at the 5
o'Clock and 2 o'Clock positions (as viewed without rotating photo)

The only useful info I can dig out from the Internet, is from 2002 in this group:-

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/e0dbe785f96b1fd5/7a62c7dcf1d4a074?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=switchmaster+va1# 7a62c7dcf1d4a074

Or http://tinyurl.com/2667ff

The colour codes quoted by Kevin Gibbs in Post 6 certainly correspond.

I've pulled the device off of its plate. The valve itself is fine, nice and
loose. The device itself rotates round when decoupled from the valve plate,
but gets stuck when attached back on the plate. I can force it along with a coin.

What are my options, back in 2002 they seemed rather bleak. I assume I need to
completely replace the device. I've got zero plumbing skills, which is a
shame. I was hoping it would be a simple electrical DIY job, but it seems not
?....

Any advice greatfully received.


--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:25:00 +0000, Mark Carver wrote:

I think I've got a Switchmaster VA1 Central Heating valve ?

See:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG

ooo - nice picture! May I use it in place of one of mine on
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Valves#3-port
??


What are my options, back in 2002 they seemed rather bleak. I assume I
need to completely replace the device. I've got zero plumbing skills,
which is a shame. I was hoping it would be a simple electrical DIY job,
but it seems not ?....

You might get it to limp along by applying wd40 to the shaft of the
mechanical valve and working it back and forth by hand before refitting
the head. Failing that it is a plumbing job. If you're lucky a replacement
Honewyell or Sunvic will have the same plumbing connections and you'll
have enough movement in the horizontal pipes to spring them apart to get
the old valve out & the new one in. You'll also have to wire in the new
valve using appropriate transposition of colours, which you can work out
from the diagram linked to in the article on the wiki page.


--
John Stumbles

87.5% of statistics are made up

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:27:35 +0000, John Stumbles wrote:

... You'll also have to wire in the new
valve using appropriate transposition of colours, which you can work out
from the diagram linked to in the article on the wiki page.

Oops, my bad: looking more closely at the article you referred to I see
the switchmaster wiring would NOT be the same as a spring return so it's
not just a matter of transposing colours: you'd have to change the wiring
somewhat. Alternatively you might get away with replacing it with a
MO-MO Sunvic.

--
John Stumbles

Bob the builder / it'll cost 'yer
Bob the builder / loadsa dosh

In message , Mark Carver
writes
I think I've got a Switchmaster VA1 Central Heating valve ?

Sorry, but replacement is your only realistic option unless someone has
one on ebay or suchlike

If it's sticking, then it's broken teeth on a cog in the gearbox or (if
it's not always at the angles you mention) the synchron motor(s)

The gearbox is riveted to the motor - which is two motors piggybacked,
not a standard one.

I repaired one for my parents a few years ago, but then I had the parts
available to do so as I have repaired plenty in the past

One problem is that it has a non-standard "wet" configuration, you will
have to drain down and re-route the pipework for a standard valve
configuration

The other is that it is also unique electrically, you will have to do a
certain amount of re-wiring

--
geoff

In message , John Stumbles
writes
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:25:00 +0000, Mark Carver wrote:

I think I've got a Switchmaster VA1 Central Heating valve ?

See:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG

ooo - nice picture! May I use it in place of one of mine on
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Valves#3-port
??


What are my options, back in 2002 they seemed rather bleak. I assume I
need to completely replace the device. I've got zero plumbing skills,
which is a shame. I was hoping it would be a simple electrical DIY job,
but it seems not ?....

You might get it to limp along by applying wd40 to the shaft of the
mechanical valve and working it back and forth by hand before refitting
the head. Failing that it is a plumbing job. If you're lucky a replacement
Honewyell or Sunvic will have the same plumbing connections

no, no, no, no, no

and you'll
have enough movement in the horizontal pipes to spring them apart to get
the old valve out & the new one in. You'll also have to wire in the new
valve using appropriate transposition of colours, which you can work out
from the diagram linked to in the article on the wiki page.



--
geoff

John Stumbles wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:27:35 +0000, John Stumbles wrote:

... You'll also have to wire in the new
valve using appropriate transposition of colours, which you can work out
from the diagram linked to in the article on the wiki page.

Oops, my bad: looking more closely at the article you referred to I see
the switchmaster wiring would NOT be the same as a spring return so it's
not just a matter of transposing colours: you'd have to change the wiring
somewhat. Alternatively you might get away with replacing it with a
MO-MO Sunvic.

Thanks John, and Geoff for your contributions, and yes John, please feel free
to use my photo.

With the aid of a multimeter, I've written out a Truth Table for each of the
states of CH/HW/Boiler-Pump working and switching.

I'm not certain what's going on with the water tank thermostat, and the
connections HW on /HW off. I assume it's effectively a changeover switch ?


--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

"Mark Carver" wrote in message
...
I think I've got a Switchmaster VA1 Central Heating valve ?

See:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG

(Taken at 90 degs :-) )

It seems to be almost dead. Gets stuck as it rotates clockwise at the 5
o'Clock and 2 o'Clock positions (as viewed without rotating photo)

The only useful info I can dig out from the Internet, is from 2002 in this
group:-


http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....0dbe785f96b1fd
5/7a62c7dcf1d4a074?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=switchmaster+va1# 7a62c7dcf1d4a074

Or http://tinyurl.com/2667ff

The colour codes quoted by Kevin Gibbs in Post 6 certainly correspond.

I've pulled the device off of its plate. The valve itself is fine, nice
and
loose. The device itself rotates round when decoupled from the valve
plate,
but gets stuck when attached back on the plate. I can force it along with
a coin.

What are my options, back in 2002 they seemed rather bleak. I assume I
need to
completely replace the device. I've got zero plumbing skills, which is a
shame. I was hoping it would be a simple electrical DIY job, but it seems
not
?....

Any advice greatfully received.

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and actuator as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework as is without
modification, however, in your photo you will note that the actuator is on
the front of the valve but the Honeywell actuator sits on top of the valve.

If there is insufficient clearance between the pipes and the wall (and other
fittings/pipes) and there is not enough flexibility in the pipes to fit the
Honeywell then you would need to extend the pipework to accommodate the new
valve.

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring centre.

Heliotrope Smith wrote:

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and actuator as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework as is without
modification, however, in your photo you will note that the actuator is on
the front of the valve but the Honeywell actuator sits on top of the valve.

If there is insufficient clearance between the pipes and the wall (and other
fittings/pipes) and there is not enough flexibility in the pipes to fit the
Honeywell then you would need to extend the pipework to accommodate the new
valve.

Thanks, it looks that way :-(

A tame plumber, who's done excellent and reasonably priced work for us before
is coming tomorrow. He'll do the plumbing, and I'm doing the wiring.

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring centre.

Yes, I've finally got my head around it now. Some useful diagrams on the
Interweb, as well as John and Geoff's info.

--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 20:31:24 +0000, Mark Carver wrote:

I'm not certain what's going on with the water tank thermostat, and the
connections HW on /HW off. I assume it's effectively a changeover
switch ?

Yup, with the wrinkle that the HW off has got to be live whenever
HW is not demanded i.e.
HW_on = programmer_on AND cylstat_on
HW_off = programmer_off OR cylstat_off
which is acheived by connecting the programmer's HW off terminal in
parallel with the 'stat's:

on
(DEMAND)
o---------- HW_ON
HW on /
o--------------o to
motorised
LIVE o o off valve
\ | (SAT)
o----------------+---------- HW_OFF
HW off

PROGRAMMER CYLSTAT

--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to marry one

In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes
Any advice greatfully received.

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and actuator as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework

no it won't

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring centre.

no it isn't

if you don't have a clue, better keep quiet, eh ?

--
geoff

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 19:47:04 +0000, geoff wrote:

One problem is that it has a non-standard "wet" configuration, you will
have to drain down and re-route the pipework for a standard valve
configuration

Is it? Pretty sure the ones I've seen are standard

CH ---T--- HW
|
^
flow

though now you raise the subject I couldn't swear to it and I can't
readily get at one to see.


The other is that it is also unique electrically, you will have to do a
certain amount of re-wiring

How unique? :-)

Is it compatible with the sunvic motor-on/motor-off ones (which I also
know nothing about :-))

--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to marry one

In message , John Stumbles
writes
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 19:47:04 +0000, geoff wrote:

One problem is that it has a non-standard "wet" configuration, you will
have to drain down and re-route the pipework for a standard valve
configuration

Is it? Pretty sure the ones I've seen are standard

difficult to find the right words to explain, but looking from the top,
the VA1 operates orthogonally, i.e. as would the hands of a clock, the
mid position is at 3 o'clock. On e.g. a standard Honeywell valve, the
mid position would be going into the wall



CH ---T--- HW
|
^
flow

though now you raise the subject I couldn't swear to it and I can't
readily get at one to see.


The other is that it is also unique electrically, you will have to do a
certain amount of re-wiring

How unique? :-)

Is it compatible with the sunvic motor-on/motor-off ones (which I also
know nothing about :-))


No, there are three wires which drive the motor to three positions
(white, yellow and orange IIRC) and one to drive the relay coil which
selects which motor to energise


I do have a diagram somewhere - did I not post it to the FAQs (ten)
years ago ?

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes
Any advice greatfully received.

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and actuator
as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework

no it won't

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring
centre.

no it isn't

if you don't have a clue, better keep quiet, eh ?

--
geoff

I change Switchmaster valves for Honeywell fairly regularly and I know what
I am talking about.

The ports are the same configuration and the same dimensions and fit
directly on without modification. (different threads so need to chop off
olives and use new nuts and olives).

However as I said I my previous post the the actuators are on a different
plane and sometimes it is necessary to alter the pipework to fit into the
space available.
I Have a (knackered) Switchmaster valve still on my van and am willing, at
my expense to post it to you for examination/comparison against a Honeywell.

The Switchmaster is six wire against Honeywell five wire and is very simple
to wire up. I will post details of wiring up tomorrow (Monday).

Best keep off the sauce before you jump in with both feet eh!

In message , Heliotrope Smith
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes
Any advice greatfully received.

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and actuator
as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework

no it won't

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring
centre.

no it isn't

if you don't have a clue, better keep quiet, eh ?

--
geoff

I change Switchmaster valves for Honeywell fairly regularly and I know what
I am talking about.


However as I said I my previous post the the actuators are on a different
plane

Which is what I said - the wet side needs modification to the pipework

I Have a (knackered) Switchmaster valve still on my van and am willing, at
my expense to post it to you for examination/comparison against a Honeywell.

I've repaired dozens, lots of dozens, in fact TYVM,

I know the VA1 much better than you do


The Switchmaster is six wire against Honeywell five wire and is very simple
to wire up. I will post details of wiring up tomorrow (Monday).

but not the same, eh?

a degree of rewiring is necessary


Best keep off the sauce before you jump in with both feet eh!

I don't see where you were right and I was wrong ...

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope Smith
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes
Any advice greatfully received.

I think your best option here is to replace the whole valve and
actuator
as
is looks like the actuator is knackered.

The Honeywell 3 port valve will go directly onto the pipework

no it won't

Wiring is fairly straightforward with one modification at the wiring
centre.

no it isn't

if you don't have a clue, better keep quiet, eh ?

--
geoff

I change Switchmaster valves for Honeywell fairly regularly and I know
what
I am talking about.


However as I said I my previous post the the actuators are on a different
plane

Which is what I said - the wet side needs modification to the pipework

I Have a (knackered) Switchmaster valve still on my van and am willing,
at
my expense to post it to you for examination/comparison against a
Honeywell.

I've repaired dozens, lots of dozens, in fact TYVM,

I know the VA1 much better than you do


The Switchmaster is six wire against Honeywell five wire and is very
simple
to wire up. I will post details of wiring up tomorrow (Monday).

but not the same, eh?

a degree of rewiring is necessary


Best keep off the sauce before you jump in with both feet eh!

I don't see where you were right and I was wrong ...

--
geoff

I do not even try to repair the actuators on the Switchmaster, much easier
to replace the lot, (no comebacks).

The wet side does NOT require alteration in the majority of cases.

The pipe configuration is EXACTLY the same.

Sometimes the pipework has to be extended because the valve will not fit
into the space available.

Yes. A degree of wiring modification is required, but takes no more time
than wiring like for like.

In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes

I do not even try to repair the actuators on the Switchmaster, much easier
to replace the lot, (no comebacks).


Of course you don't

you don't have the means or ability

The wet side does NOT require alteration in the majority of cases.

So explain to me how a valve which is (as you have also posted) in a
different plane needs no modification

The pipe configuration is EXACTLY the same.

Sometimes the pipework has to be extended because the valve will not fit
into the space available.

above ...


Yes. A degree of wiring modification is required, but takes no more time
than wiring like for like.

a detailed explanation would be priceless here ...

VA1 to Honeywell 4043 spring return for example

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes

I do not even try to repair the actuators on the Switchmaster, much
easier
to replace the lot, (no comebacks).


Of course you don't

you don't have the means or ability

The wet side does NOT require alteration in the majority of cases.

So explain to me how a valve which is (as you have also posted) in a
different plane needs no modification

The pipe configuration is EXACTLY the same.

Sometimes the pipework has to be extended because the valve will not fit
into the space available.

above ...


Yes. A degree of wiring modification is required, but takes no more time
than wiring like for like.

a detailed explanation would be priceless here ...

VA1 to Honeywell 4043 spring return for example

--
geoff

If you go to the OP jpg you will see the switchmaster valve as a T with HW
to the left and CH to the right. Flow from the boiler/pump enters at the
bottom of the T. The spindle to the rotary shoe comes from the front of the
T and the actuator fits over it and that is why you cannot actually see the
whole valve.

The Honeywell ports are EXACTLY the same configuration as the Switchmaster,
but the spindle comes out of the top of the valve and therefore the actuator
sits on the top of the valve. So, you have a T with HW to left or right and
CH to right or left (as required by spinning round) and boiler flow entering
at the bottom.

The Honeywell will fit directly onto the pipework setup for the switchmaster
WITHOUT alteration. Only (rarely) if there is obstructions in the way of the
actuator would it be necessary to reposition the valve but not alter the
configuration of the ports.

Hope this is clearer.

On Jan 21, 2:09 am, "Heliotrope Smith" wrote:

The Honeywell will fit directly onto the pipework setup for the switchmaster
WITHOUT alteration. Only (rarely) if there is obstructions in the way of the
actuator would it be necessary to reposition the valve but not alter the
configuration of the ports.

Hope this is clearer.

Latest news, plumber came this morning, and fitted a Honeywell. As you
can see from my originally posted photo, the pipework had to be
rearranged. The wiring was as per my own deductions last night, though
I needn't have bothered, he's done dozens of these swap outs on our
estate this last couple of years, and had a record of the wiring mods
in his note book.

Later I'll post a photo of the new device, and the wiring changes for
posterity, and so John can update his Wiki page if he wishes.

Thanks all.

Mark Carver wrote:

Latest news, plumber came this morning, and fitted a Honeywell. As you
can see from my originally posted photo, the pipework had to be
rearranged. The wiring was as per my own deductions last night, though
I needn't have bothered, he's done dozens of these swap outs on our
estate this last couple of years, and had a record of the wiring mods
in his note book.

Later I'll post a photo of the new device, and the wiring changes for
posterity, and so John can update his Wiki page if he wishes.

As promised:

Switchmaster VA1 Honeywell V4073A Connection

Red Orange Live to Boiler & Pump
Orange Orange(Link to above)Tank Stat HW on
White Grey Tank Stat HW off
Yellow White CH on (from room stat)
Blue Blue Neutral
G/Y G/Y Earth

Picture of new fitting:-

http://www.markyboy.net/hwell.JPG

Old:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG

--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mark Carver wrote:

Mark Carver wrote:

Latest news, plumber came this morning, and fitted a Honeywell. As
you can see from my originally posted photo, the pipework had to be
rearranged. The wiring was as per my own deductions last night,
though I needn't have bothered, he's done dozens of these swap outs
on our estate this last couple of years, and had a record of the
wiring mods in his note book.

Later I'll post a photo of the new device, and the wiring changes for
posterity, and so John can update his Wiki page if he wishes.

As promised:

Switchmaster VA1 Honeywell V4073A Connection

Red Orange Live to Boiler &
Pump Orange Orange(Link to above)Tank Stat HW on
White Grey Tank Stat HW off
Yellow White CH on (from room
stat) Blue Blue Neutral
G/Y G/Y Earth

Picture of new fitting:-

http://www.markyboy.net/hwell.JPG

Old:-

http://www.markyboy.net/va1.JPG



Excellent! You didn't actually say whether it *works*? g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In message , Heliotrope Smith
writes
If you go to the OP jpg you will see the switchmaster valve as a T with HW
to the left and CH to the right. Flow from the boiler/pump enters at the
bottom of the T. The spindle to the rotary shoe comes from the front of the
T and the actuator fits over it and that is why you cannot actually see the
whole valve.

Well, let the OP answer that

"As you can see from my originally posted photo, the pipework had to be
rearranged"


--
geoff

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 23:44:26 +0000, geoff wrote:

difficult to find the right words to explain, but looking from the top,
the VA1 operates orthogonally, i.e. as would the hands of a clock, the
mid position is at 3 o'clock. On e.g. a standard Honeywell valve, the
mid position would be going into the wall

IOW the head is on the side rather than the top of the valve? (If the Tee
is standing up like the Angel of t'North)


I do have a diagram somewhere - did I not post it to the FAQs (ten)
years ago ?

Ah, the FAQ ... how quaint ;-) You mean this one?
http://diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/contro...itionvalve.htm
wot I cribbed to make this:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...lve_wiring.gif
- but that's a spring-return 3-port valve. What I was wondering is whether
Sunvic's MOMO 3-port valves:
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/motorised_valves.htm
would be a drop-in replacement, electrically, for the switchmaster.

Unfortunately their compatability guide
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/images/compa...sed_valves.png
(looks like a scan of a page from a glossy)
doesn't list the switchmaster, and I can't find any real data (like
installation guides) on their poxy wibble.

--
John Stumbles

I can't stand intolerance

Roger Mills wrote:

Excellent! You didn't actually say whether it *works*? g

It does. A bit of unrelated faffing about. The drain tap was stuck shut, took
a while afterwards to clear air locks etc, but all OK now, and work completed
exactly 24 hours after the problem was discovered.


--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
geoff wrote:

In message , Heliotrope
Smith writes
If you go to the OP jpg you will see the switchmaster valve as a T
with HW to the left and CH to the right. Flow from the boiler/pump
enters at the bottom of the T. The spindle to the rotary shoe comes
from the front of the T and the actuator fits over it and that is
why you cannot actually see the whole valve.

Well, let the OP answer that

"As you can see from my originally posted photo, the pipework had to
be rearranged"

I've never seen one of these valves in the flesh, and have no particular axe
to grind - but from what I can see from the photos and glean from what has
been written, the pipework would *only* need to be re-arranged if it were up
against a wall or if other pipework would interfere with the new actuator -
rather than in *every* case as a matter of course. For example, my
mid-position valve sits just above the pump in fresh air, and it looks as
if - plumbing-wise - a Switchmaster would slot straight in instead.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In message , John Stumbles
writes
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 23:44:26 +0000, geoff wrote:

difficult to find the right words to explain, but looking from the top,
the VA1 operates orthogonally, i.e. as would the hands of a clock, the
mid position is at 3 o'clock. On e.g. a standard Honeywell valve, the
mid position would be going into the wall

IOW the head is on the side rather than the top of the valve? (If the Tee
is standing up like the Angel of t'North)


I do have a diagram somewhere - did I not post it to the FAQs (ten)
years ago ?

Ah, the FAQ ... how quaint ;-) You mean this one?
http://diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/contro...itionvalve.htm

No, maybe it got cleaned out with the cobwebs



wot I cribbed to make this:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...mid-pos-valve_
wiring.gif
- but that's a spring-return 3-port valve. What I was wondering is whether
Sunvic's MOMO 3-port valves:
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/motorised_valves.htm
would be a drop-in replacement, electrically, for the switchmaster.

No, there is no directly compatible head that I've ever come across


Unfortunately their compatability guide
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/images/compa...sed_valves.png
(looks like a scan of a page from a glossy)
doesn't list the switchmaster, and I can't find any real data (like
installation guides) on their poxy wibble.

Probably because it's been obsolete for some time now



--
geoff

On Jan 21, 8:59 pm, "Roger Mills" wrote:

I've never seen one of these valves in the flesh, and have no particular axe
to grind - but from what I can see from the photos and glean from what has
been written, the pipework would *only* need to be re-arranged if it were up
against a wall or if other pipework would interfere with the new actuator -
rather than in *every* case as a matter of course. For example, my
mid-position valve sits just above the pump in fresh air, and it looks as
if - plumbing-wise - a Switchmaster would slot straight in instead.

Measuring the removed Switchmaster, the length from end to end is
95mm. The distance from the centre line on the main axis, to the end
of the third port in 45mm.

The Honeywell (now obviously in situ) seems to have the same
dimensions.

In message
,
Mark Carver writes
On Jan 21, 8:59 pm, "Roger Mills" wrote:

I've never seen one of these valves in the flesh, and have no particular axe
to grind - but from what I can see from the photos and glean from what has
been written, the pipework would *only* need to be re-arranged if it were up
against a wall or if other pipework would interfere with the new actuator -
rather than in *every* case as a matter of course. For example, my
mid-position valve sits just above the pump in fresh air, and it looks as
if - plumbing-wise - a Switchmaster would slot straight in instead.

Measuring the removed Switchmaster, the length from end to end is
95mm. The distance from the centre line on the main axis, to the end
of the third port in 45mm.

The Honeywell (now obviously in situ) seems to have the same
dimensions.

Yes, I think maybe I was wrong and a bit over the top in my (general)
response, as opposed to the specific one in response to the photo

--
geoff

In message , Heliotrope Smith
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
The Honeywell ports are EXACTLY the same configuration as the Switchmaster,

So I prolly owe you a an apology ..


--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Heliotrope Smith
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
The Honeywell ports are EXACTLY the same configuration as the
Switchmaster,

So I prolly owe you a an apology ..


--
geoff

Nice gesture.........

Thank you.

---- shakes hand----

Regards, HS.

On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:08:02 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:


Unfortunately their compatability guide
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/images/compa...sed_valves.png
(looks like a scan of a page from a glossy)
doesn't list the switchmaster, and I can't find any real data (like
installation guides) on their poxy wibble.

They still don't show anything - I emailed them about it in August last year:-

" Your web site page:-
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/momo_valves.htm
has a "more" link but it points to the wrong pdf:-
http://www.sunvic.co.uk/documentation/datasheets/tlxrfd_datasheet.pdf
which is:- USER GUIDE TLX 7506 RF Digital Room Thermostat

The heating controls brochure has a system wiring diagram
using a valve but it shows the old SM5203 2 Port Actuator (5
Wire). The MoMo compatibility table says the SZM1801 actuator
is 4 wires. Could you please point me to the correct url for
the SZM1801 valve wiring. thanks,"

They sent me a single sheet doc which included the wiring for a couple of the
valves. I have converted it to pdf and (temporarily) placed it here if any use
to you:-
http://www.diy.110mb.com/MoMo&TLX7501.pdf


Geo

I also scanned the wiring sheet which comes with the Sunvic valve:-
http://www.diy.110mb.com/SZM1801.pdf

Geo

On Wed, 23 Jan 2008 20:31:56 +0000, Geo wrote:

http://www.diy.110mb.com/MoMo&TLX7501.pdf

Thanks, got that (after I escaped the & - ouch!) and the other sheet.

These are 2-port valves, innit? I hadn't come across this type that seem
to sort-of emulate a spring-return valve.

Anybody got any data on the 3-port MOMO valves? (I suppose Sunvic have -
maybe they'll let us into the secret if I phone them)

--
John Stumbles

What do you mean, talking about it isn't oral sex?

Fabulously useful info :-) Worked exactly with a Horstmann replacement of my Switchmaster.

Regarding physical fit, the actuator being relocated to the top of the tee-pipes fouled another pipe; luckily it was the vent, so the simple expedient of cutting out a section and replacement with a flexi bridge did the trick!

Glad to have found this - thanks